How to prepare spindles and handrails ready for painting
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2019
- This is a short demonstration on how to prepare spindles and handrail's ready for paint application using a sanding pad as apposed to using standard sandpaper or an electric orbital sander.
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Hello Joe. Firstly, I wanted to say well done on the high quality of useful information in your videos as well as the evident top notch quality, attention to detail and efficiency of your work. I’m very impressed and have found your videos the best on you tube on the subject of painting and decorating in the UK. So thank you for that mate!
Secondly, please correct me if I’m wrong but I’d assume you at least spot paint or touch up with acrylic/ water based undercoat all the areas that you would have had to make good with wood filler or those showing heavy discolouring or even bare timber after sanding and prior to application of 2 or 1 acrylic/ water based top coats when painting old oil based paint woodwork? I don’t remember you mentioning it on any of your videos and I’m just wondering if you just take that for granted or if you don’t use undercoat when not changing colours?
Hi there, thank you for your appreciative comments and I'm so glad you enjoy the videos.
Regarding spot priming woodfiller, I would apply a standard acrylic primer/undercoat in some cases, but in situations where I may need to get the first coat on quickly, I would use zinsser bin, or coverstain...both can be painted over with both oil or water based.
I generally use either eggshell or satinwood finish...hardly ever use gloss so no need for an undercoat as both are self undercoating.
When applying water based over oil based, it generally needs 3 coats of water based, si I generally use a water based adhesive primer first before the following 2 coats of finish
JoeProDecor Thanks for replying and that’s what I suspected ;)
Looking forward to more videos from you and good luck with your projects!
Nice vid. My banister looks just like that. Could I use a primer before painting
Hi, yes an adhesion primer is needed over old oil based paints if going over to a, water based finish
Thanks Joe..
You are welcome 👍
Great video Joe,would you brush them or try get a dense roller on them ?
Hi Jonny, I used a fussy bloke semi smooth 4 inch roller and layed off with a prodec ice fusion brush 👍
If I was applying oil, I would use a smooth fussy bloke with a Hamilton perfection brush
@@JoeProDecor Thanks Joe,I'm hearing good things about those Fussy Blokes sleeves and they're not too expensive,I presume they're hard wearing.I was using 4" Rota microfibre on site but I'd only get two houses out of one sleeve and that would be just on handrail/spindles and window boards.I'm hearing good things about Oldfields brushes too and I'll be ordering some this week,plus Uni-Pro sleeves seem to be getting good reports,cheers !
@@John-pg3pi yeah they seem to be pretty hardwearing....but I dont use them on everything tbh...I use Hamilton perfection microfiber with emulsions .
I've had the same 2 fussy bloke sleeves, one for water and one for oil for months...lol
@@JoeProDecor Happy days, I'll get a few so, cheers
If the spindles had loads of old layers of oil based paint and is hard to sand would you recommend using paint stipper? Also what's a good brand of stripper? Thanks.
If the paint has to come off, I would use a heat gun to burn and scrape off. I usually get them smooth with my festool ro90 though tbh and haven't had to take down to bare wood for a long time. I've tried many of the chemical paint strippers in past year's, and none of them seem to be as good as they used to be.
My handrail and spindles got tiny dents in places that need filling after layers of gloss paint. Which filler would you recommend that can go on easily and what’s the best water based satinwood you recommend after I have primed the handrail and spindles.
I recommend toupret wood filler , and I recommend Johnstones trade Aqua guard satin for a brilliant white scuff resistant finish
Hi Joe, I’m repainting my banister, and I can’t get the paint to go on smoothly! It drys looking streaky and textured -tried a brush and a roller, same issue. Any recommendations to get a smooth finish? Should I be sanding before I start repainting?
Hi yes, the surface needs to be cleaned firstly to remove any grease ect... Then sanded to key the surface. Repair any holes ect with filler and sand smooth, before applying your primer and finish system.
It's really difficult to advise exactly as I don't know the condition of the surface, what type of paint is currently on the surface, or what type of paint you are using.
The most important aspect is the prep, and the surface needs to be free from contamination, and smooth before you even apply paint.
If it has oil based on it currently? You will need to apply an adhesion primer before applying a water based/acrylic finish (usually 3 coats in total) and the finish all depends on apication and product used... Obviously cheaper paints won't have the same quality as better quality trade paints.
When you do any sanding, it leaves fine dust... So make sure you remove the dust before painting... Tac rags or vaccum and wipe with a damp cloth.
Hi Joe,
I’ve had a room done by a supposedly professional decorator. I’ve fitted new Louvre Doors and they have been painted with Eggshell by Mac. However the doors are sticking so I may sand them down. Would I be better using a orbital sander or one of those sanding pads?
Cheers
Hi Rob, it really depends on how much you need to sand them back, and how wide the slats are.
These pads on this video are ok for detailed or small area's of wood if they just need keying...but if you want to sand paint off for example, I would use an orbital sander or better quality paper on a sanding block.
I now use the mirka equivalent of these now for finishing work as they don't shed bits everywhere and they ate longer lasting.
please advise which primer can you use> any recommendations> dulux etc?
@gulsameer2921 Hi, I cannot recommend Johnstones trade Aqua guard primer enough. Part of a fantastic Johnstones trade Aqua guard system that offers a matt, satin or gloss finish .
@@gulsameer2921 Johnstones trade Aqua guard primer undercoat
I think for water on oil Joe I would go with the zinsser 123 just to be on safe side.
I get you Jack ....but I have tested bullseye 123, haftprimer ect against lots of different water based satins(its on my channel) and the adhesion primers are no better than the satins going ontop of old oil
ruclips.net/video/ppBhZddCgs4/видео.html
The only water based paint I will use now are self priming anyway
The one I used on this job was Benjamin moore scuff x satin.....self priming and ultra hard wearing for a, water based....the best on the market imo
@@JoeProDecor oh really thats surprising maybe zinsser bin will be best then.
My banister was dark stain it’s had gloss on top where it’s chipped you see dark stain .please would products would you use I want to paint them again .iv seen a product you can pain on takes paint and stain off what do you know about these products please any help would be great
Hi, a stain blocking primer like zinsser bin should be used over stained/varnished wood before applying your chosen paint sysyem(coverstain can also be used), but for tgat to be now useful....the old paint would have to be stripped back to the original stain. Best way to tackle this without going back to the stain(which would require burning it all off with a heat gun), is to sand it back thoroughly until all loose material is off, festher off any sharp paint edges before spot priming the stained areas with zinsser, or all of the area if you intend to apply water based over the top. The mist important part of the proccess is the initial prep/sanding and wiping down ready for paint application, and it is a time consuming job when done properly.
I recommend using aluminium wood primer instead of zinsser if you are going with a darker colour on your woodwork
All the best, Joe
I'm presuming it has been painted with oil based gloss, with an oil based undercoat?...if gloss has been applied directly, ir water based has been applied directly, then that is why it is peeling and chipping off easily due to no adhesion promoting primer being applied first, also known as a bridging primer.
Put a water based primer on it if it's going from oil base to water base finish then finish it with a water based top cost 🤷♀️
them pads are useless. i cut a piece of mirka paper the same size and use the mirka paper over the sanding pad. is way less stressful.
Hi yes I totally agree... The bits go everywhere. I don't use these anymore, but use Mirka goldflex now.... No loss off the pads and last longer 👌
Aren’t you rounding the corners of the spindle the way you were sanding.
Yes very slightly...and the reason being that paint doesn't adhere very well to sharp corners, and they are always prone to chipping off if knocked....so by slightly sanding the corners (and only very slightly). It smooths off the corner and prepares the surface better for paint application.
These are sponge pads at approximately 120-180 grit and do not create enough resistance to take off the wood...they are only taking a layer or two of paint off.