Servicing a 1957 General Electric model 14s208 b&w, vacuum tube television. P2/? donor disassembly
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- Опубликовано: 29 янв 2024
- Assessing the better of the two chassis and beginning of disassembly of the donor chassis. The CRT is better in the donor as is the overall electronic condition.
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Had the same frustrating issues with an adorable 14" Admiral I restored. Had to completely remove the speaker and there was one, single angle with the cabinet and CRT face down on the bench that would work to get the chassis up and off the CRT and out of the cabinet. The HV anode was so short, you had to stick your arm in the cabinet with the chassis partially removed and held suspended about an inch up the neck of the CRT, squeeze the forked leads, blind mind you, out of the tube. Every time I took it out or put the chassis back, I got cuts on my hands and forearm. It wasn't very cute looking when I finished. I hear ya brother. These sets were designed to be run to exhaustion and thrown out. .
Yep that was a bugger to extract the cathode ray tube, but you didn't give up.
I like the crt, nicely rounded corners and the picture was not bad considering it's current state.
Shame it's a nightmare of crappy caps and mad snake wiring lol.
In truth they are not hard to take apart, just designed for construction speed and cost first. I have rebuilt a couple but always disassemble them from the front. Take the trim off, loosen the tube, and pull it out the front after disconnecting and removing the yoke. The anode lead is long enough once you get the tube a bit you can reach in and un-hook it. Once the tube is free of the chassis then bring the chassis out through the front. On the bench you can work on the chassis with the tube (or a test tube) hooked up.
I can't believe you are even doing this. Such a mess in there. Maybe you can re-order all that old chaotic wiring while you're reworking the set. What a job.
Another great video Jordan, looking forward to part 3.
Shango shotgunning the capacitors
I found out a much faster way to take that tv apart which is simply a two five foot drop method! Use of an empty kitty pool (preferably without the kitties) to catch those darned fast shooting pieces works fairly well.
I sure hope you are getting paid very well for this job!
Just wondering if some 99% IPA would help loosen the adhesive around the CRT?
I thought I threw all those in the trash in the early 70s along with the even-worse Predictas.
Now everyone wants both.
Now people relize why I have not restored my set like this yet it is a pain in the rear to work on !
Hello Jordan,
Quick question. What is your recommendation on meter to check for bad capacitors that are in circuits?
On sets this age it's almost better to just recap. Not possible to check caps in circuit under 1uf for esr and leakage is out of the question. Given the time investment, it's cheaper to replace then to pull and test with a legit leakage tester
Looking forward to this as I have one I need to do. The Selenium diode what are you going to replace it? 1N5408? hope to see the next vidoe
Likely a 1n5408 and will have to change the dropping resistor values since the silicon will be alot more efficient
Damn jordan, GE were so cheap ass they only fitted 3 feet to the bottom causing the shell to bend badly.
Is it me at 1726 time frame Voldemort appears on JPs shirt
That's typical of GE. Their stuff is almost *impossible* to work on. The way you have to access the sound IF transformer on this set is a "stroke of genius."
General Electric could take a few quality and repairability lessons from Zenith. I intensely disliked G.E. TVs. Poor quality PC boards, a cacophony of parts strewn about and those wires that were tinned as a bunch of strands together that work hardened and cracked loose if moved too much. On this particular set, near impossible to make any kind of measurements when the set was running (well, I guess you could use tube socket extenders). Not fun products to work on.
That just looks like a mess to work on.