A good way to minimize the dust is to get a 20" box fan and bungee a furnace filter to the intake side. It works better if you take five 20" filters and tape them together into a 5 sided box then have the fan blowing out from the 6th side to maximize surface area of the filters and get a good flow (there's plans on line for this one). Doesn't end the problem of dust but it does help pull ultra fine particles out of the air. I'm working on the once fire method myself, thanks for experimenting.
this is super helpful! thank you. we had awful wildfires in portland a few years back and did something similar. i’ll have to give it a go for the silica dust! :)
@@bwpottery I've been wanting to do it for ages and he's convinced me that it's easier than people generally have you believe. So, January is for testing 😄
you have such a peaceful demeanor and this style of video is my favorite! I'm so new to pottery so this single firing is something I've never considered, does it affect the integrity of the piece?
thank you!! :) and not at all! the pieces are still strong and fully functional. i think the biggest difference/issue is that the green ware doesn’t absorb glaze as well as bisque. 😬
Just watched this for the first time, thank you! I'm about to embark on my first single firing. I'm intrigued with you putting the bungs in right at the beginning, I would've thought for single firings, allowing moisture to escape initially is key. It doesn't seem to have affected your firing at all. Was the kiln vented at all in the first couple of hours? btw I"m so impressed with your calmness at looking at the results! All those top pots would've been whipped straight out if it were me so I could see other shelves immediately! 😂
Thanks so much for sharing your experiment in raw glazing. I have a quick question: after you glazed the inside, you sprayed water on the outside to equalize the absorption. Do you do the same thing later on when you glaze the outside of the same piece (i.e. do you spray the inside with water after glazing the outside)? I'm considering trying raw glazing and I haven't been able to find a good answer to this question. It seems like it wouldn't be a good idea to spray water on a surface that has already been glazed but I'm wondering why it's necessary with one but not the other. Thanks in advance!
If you made a denser glaze and altered the viscosity with darvan, could you theoretically go for a full dip rather than pouring inside/outside 12 hours apart?
This is video is so informative. Thank you so much! I have one question that came out of it tho :) If I can't assure vitirification of the ceramic, than it can't be defined as food sface right? To give an ilustration: I just bought an old kiln (those ones where it only shuts when the cone melts to its temperature). If I have a cone that melts at 1196ºC degrees and use it to fire stoneware clay that vitrificates at 1200ºC degrees, there is a difference of 4ºC degrees. I can't say that those ceramic works are food safe. Right? This having in mind the single fire method. Sorry, your video was so detailed and informative, but I still have this question. TSMIA!!
thank you!! and thanks for the question. i’ve had kilns in the past with a kiln sitter and they do make it a little bit harder! my best advice would be buying a pyrometer. put it in one of the peep holes so you can gauge the temp when it’s reaching top temperature. you can be there before the kiln shuts off (the lever drops) and catch the lever before it hits the switch. keeping the kiln on for a little longer until it reaches your desired temperature! 😊
A good vitrification test is to boil the finished glazed pot in hot water for a few hours then compare the weight difference before and after absorbing the water. Vitrified Stoneware should not absorb more than 2% of it's total weight.
Cant you just let it dry for longer (after glazing) ...then fire? The biggest for me would be knocking off time to get too that finished product/piece! Nice detailed tutorial..liked the ride!
Doesn't the temperature that you need for fire a bisque different than the glaze ? I haven't learn much about glaze yet, but I thought that was the point for why you can't glaze the bone dry pots without fire them. (since technically they still can absorb water)
it is! a bisque firing is around 1800 f where a glaze firing is 2250. a bisque makes the pots more durable but still porous enough to except a coating of water/glaze. a pot that is green, or not bisque is also porous and will except glaze/water. :)
@@bwpottery now considering the time that have passed since this video, does these ones became more fragile than bisque+glaze ones? PS. your voice is sooo soothing. I can use it as an ASMR audio 😊
I am here to tell you that slow fire does not resolve that issue hahah I have blown up a few ans ruined a whole kiln from one single fired pot glazed the night before 😭
oh no!!! honestly my worst nightmare. after some more experimenting i sort of stick with a bisque before glazing. i just don’t have time to reformulate my glazes to get the right thickness for single fire. bisque pots absorb the glaze so much better than bone dry pots. 😬
A good way to minimize the dust is to get a 20" box fan and bungee a furnace filter to the intake side. It works better if you take five 20" filters and tape them together into a 5 sided box then have the fan blowing out from the 6th side to maximize surface area of the filters and get a good flow (there's plans on line for this one). Doesn't end the problem of dust but it does help pull ultra fine particles out of the air. I'm working on the once fire method myself, thanks for experimenting.
this is super helpful! thank you. we had awful wildfires in portland a few years back and did something similar. i’ll have to give it a go for the silica dust! :)
have you seen Simon Leach's videos on raw glazing. He's been doing it very successfully for a while and has lots of videos on it,
i have but it’s been ages! i’ll have to give them another watch
@@bwpottery I've been wanting to do it for ages and he's convinced me that it's easier than people generally have you believe. So, January is for testing 😄
you have such a peaceful demeanor and this style of video is my favorite! I'm so new to pottery so this single firing is something I've never considered, does it affect the integrity of the piece?
thank you!! :) and not at all! the pieces are still strong and fully functional. i think the biggest difference/issue is that the green ware doesn’t absorb glaze as well as bisque. 😬
@@bwpottery ohhhh interesting!! So yeah it would be good in a pinch or if you’re going for a certain look or something. So cool! Thanks 🫶🏻
Interesting video, thanks for sharing your experience 😊
Just watched this for the first time, thank you! I'm about to embark on my first single firing. I'm intrigued with you putting the bungs in right at the beginning, I would've thought for single firings, allowing moisture to escape initially is key. It doesn't seem to have affected your firing at all. Was the kiln vented at all in the first couple of hours? btw I"m so impressed with your calmness at looking at the results! All those top pots would've been whipped straight out if it were me so I could see other shelves immediately! 😂
Me gusta mucho tu trabajo !!😍
thank you!!! 🥰
thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for sharing your experiment in raw glazing. I have a quick question: after you glazed the inside, you sprayed water on the outside to equalize the absorption. Do you do the same thing later on when you glaze the outside of the same piece (i.e. do you spray the inside with water after glazing the outside)? I'm considering trying raw glazing and I haven't been able to find a good answer to this question. It seems like it wouldn't be a good idea to spray water on a surface that has already been glazed but I'm wondering why it's necessary with one but not the other. Thanks in advance!
I think you are correct. It makes sense. I will soon be starting raw glazing at the studio I go to. I am a bit nervous.
Which kiln do you have? Thank you so much for these helpful videos!
If you made a denser glaze and altered the viscosity with darvan, could you theoretically go for a full dip rather than pouring inside/outside 12 hours apart?
This is video is so informative. Thank you so much! I have one question that came out of it tho :) If I can't assure vitirification of the ceramic, than it can't be defined as food sface right? To give an ilustration: I just bought an old kiln (those ones where it only shuts when the cone melts to its temperature). If I have a cone that melts at 1196ºC degrees and use it to fire stoneware clay that vitrificates at 1200ºC degrees, there is a difference of 4ºC degrees. I can't say that those ceramic works are food safe. Right? This having in mind the single fire method.
Sorry, your video was so detailed and informative, but I still have this question. TSMIA!!
thank you!! and thanks for the question. i’ve had kilns in the past with a kiln sitter and they do make it a little bit harder! my best advice would be buying a pyrometer. put it in one of the peep holes so you can gauge the temp when it’s reaching top temperature. you can be there before the kiln shuts off (the lever drops) and catch the lever before it hits the switch. keeping the kiln on for a little longer until it reaches your desired temperature! 😊
A good vitrification test is to boil the finished glazed pot in hot water for a few hours then compare the weight difference before and after absorbing the water. Vitrified Stoneware should not absorb more than 2% of it's total weight.
Cant you just let it dry for longer (after glazing) ...then fire? The biggest for me would be knocking off time to get too that finished product/piece! Nice detailed tutorial..liked the ride!
Borat does pottery? Nice
hey Man will u help me to learn those skills
Doesn't the temperature that you need for fire a bisque different than the glaze ?
I haven't learn much about glaze yet, but I thought that was the point for why you can't glaze the bone dry pots without fire them. (since technically they still can absorb water)
it is! a bisque firing is around 1800 f where a glaze firing is 2250. a bisque makes the pots more durable but still porous enough to except a coating of water/glaze. a pot that is green, or not bisque is also porous and will except glaze/water. :)
@@bwpottery now considering the time that have passed since this video, does these ones became more fragile than bisque+glaze ones?
PS. your voice is sooo soothing. I can use it as an ASMR audio 😊
I am here to tell you that slow fire does not resolve that issue hahah I have blown up a few ans ruined a whole kiln from one single fired pot glazed the night before 😭
oh no!!! honestly my worst nightmare. after some more experimenting i sort of stick with a bisque before glazing. i just don’t have time to reformulate my glazes to get the right thickness for single fire. bisque pots absorb the glaze so much better than bone dry pots. 😬