I'm sure the channel will put the subtitle up soon, but I thought I will just do a summary of what Akiyo is saying in the video. I am a fan of these climbers myself and I just wanted to help fellow international viewers to get to know them more and enjoy climbing. If you thought this translation was of any use for you, push the thumb-up button so that this comment can stay at the top. In the video, Akiyo talks about the routine she does to take care of her fingers. She usually does these exercises after a training session. But they can be done anytime, for instance, after taking a bath or before going to bed. Just whenever she has time. She recommends these exercises not only to climbers but to everyone who uses their fingers daily. For example, people who use computer could benefit as well. Akiyo goes on to say that she has never injured her fingers before. Her fingers are nice and flexible and even after 20 years of climbing, she has no obvious deformation. Below are the 5 exercises explained in the video. 1. Hold the wrist and swing the hands back and forth She does this about 10 times back and forth in a relaxed manner. 2. Massage in between the fingers She massages the part between the fingers where the skin looks like a fin. 10 times between all fingers. 3. Separating the palm First, she presses her thumb on the palm, at the point between the bone structure of the pinky finger and the ring finger. She then gives it a massage, it is like trying to separate the palms between each bone that connected to the fingers. Through this, she sometimes finds the part that is tensed up and tired. She then concentrates on massaging and moving that part, making it mobile. 4. Extending each finger joints Akiyo starts by extending the joint on her finger closest to the knuckle. She then moves on other joints towards the tip of the fingers. Once she has extended the individual joints, she gave the whole finger a stretch backwards. This is repeated for all fingers. 5. Extending the fingers moving them She holds her finger by its tip (where the fingernail is) and gives it a pull. While it is pulled, she moves it in a circular motion. 5 x clockwise and 5 x anti-clockwise. This is repeated for all fingers. 6. Rubbing the fingers This part of the video is self-explanatory. 7. Holding the hand by a finger and giving it a shake Akiyo comments that she is moving her right hand (the hand holding the finger) only while her left-hand stays relaxed. Make sure to keep the pull on the finger while doing this. Do this about 10 times and repeat for all fingers. That's it! Her hand is feeling a lot lighter now! Hope this helps you all enjoy the video more! Now go out and enjoy climbing!
Brief translation of the main points. 1. 手首を持って前後にブラブラ Hold your wrist and shake it back and forward. Do this about 10 times. 2. 水かきをぐりぐり Press and rub on the webbing between your fingers. 10 times for each finger. 3. 手のひらを分ける Separate the palm. With your thumb on your palm, peel off your palm joints as if you are trying to separate the bones in your hand. (The verb here is はがす which means to peel or to tear off?) You will be able to tell which parts are stiff and don't move, so move and peel those parts. 4. 関節を1つずつ反らす Bend the joint one at a time. Bend from the joint at the base of your finger (MCP joint). Then repeat with the other joints going up (PIP, DIP). Lastly, bend your whole finger. 5. 指を引っ張って回す Pull and turn your fingers. While pulling your finger, rotate it 5 times each direction. 6. 指をさする Rub your fingers. Make a circle and rub your fingers about 10 times each. 7. 手を持って上下にブラブラ While holding your finger, shake your hand up and down. Only the hand holding the finger should be moving, the hand shaking should be relaxed. Do this holding each finger, about 10 times each.
Yup just general hand care. She mentions that it's good in general as well, not just for climbers. She says after climbing, before sleeping, or while taking a bath are times she likes to do the routine, but it can be done at anytime.
I am always impressed by the Japanese team in internationnal competions ! I am so glad you three made this RUclips channel and wish you all the best ! Thank you (:
Hello from Sweden! We are huge fans after watching you guys compete in the world cups :) so excited you have started a channel!!! I'd love to see videos about what a typical day or week looks like for you, how you train for speed climbing, what it's like traveling around the world for competitions, any tips or tricks like the ones you have already posted, and basically anything else that you create 😃
thank you!! have been looking for some more stretches to help me with tendonitis in my hands and this has been so good!! would love to see more stretches from akiyo! shoulder stretches and how to prevent shoulder injury? :P
I've been doing this routine after almost each session since I watched this. Exercise 3 made me realize that I sometimes do have knots/tension at the locations Akiyo-san works on, especially between index and middle finger of my left hand.
20 years of top-end climbing with no finger injuries is incredible.... But I'd like to know the reasoning behind the various finger massages Akiyo uses - is it flexibility? Reducing scarring? Increased blood flow? Preventing inflammation?
From having just done it, and my own thoughts, i'd think it's to increase mobility in the joints and ligaments. If they're healthy and have mobility their less likely to get injured.
7 Steps: 1. Hold wrist and shake hand 2. Massage webbing between fingers 3. Massage hand between bones 4. Stretch/bend each finger joint on each finger 5. Pull and rotate each finger 6. Massage each finger 7. Hold and shake each finger
Nice video. Would absolutely love a forearm care video. Mine get trashed, they're full of tension and knots. いいビデオ。絶対に前腕ケアビデオが大好きです。鉱山はゴミ箱に入れられ、緊張と結び目でいっぱいです。
![[Lesson] Slab! Tomoa Narasaki's 5 Points!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UCj5eHkhYg0/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Lesson] Slab! Tomoa Narasaki's 5 Points!](/img/tr.png)
I'm sure the channel will put the subtitle up soon, but I thought I will just do a summary of what Akiyo is saying in the video. I am a fan of these climbers myself and I just wanted to help fellow international viewers to get to know them more and enjoy climbing.
If you thought this translation was of any use for you, push the thumb-up button so that this comment can stay at the top.
In the video, Akiyo talks about the routine she does to take care of her fingers. She usually does these exercises after a training session. But they can be done anytime, for instance, after taking a bath or before going to bed. Just whenever she has time.
She recommends these exercises not only to climbers but to everyone who uses their fingers daily. For example, people who use computer could benefit as well.
Akiyo goes on to say that she has never injured her fingers before. Her fingers are nice and flexible and even after 20 years of climbing, she has no obvious deformation.
Below are the 5 exercises explained in the video.
1. Hold the wrist and swing the hands back and forth
She does this about 10 times back and forth in a relaxed manner.
2. Massage in between the fingers
She massages the part between the fingers where the skin looks like a fin. 10 times between all fingers.
3. Separating the palm
First, she presses her thumb on the palm, at the point between the bone structure of the pinky finger and the ring finger. She then gives it a massage, it is like trying to separate the palms between each bone that connected to the fingers.
Through this, she sometimes finds the part that is tensed up and tired. She then concentrates on massaging and moving that part, making it mobile.
4. Extending each finger joints
Akiyo starts by extending the joint on her finger closest to the knuckle. She then moves on other joints towards the tip of the fingers. Once she has extended the individual joints, she gave the whole finger a stretch backwards. This is repeated for all fingers.
5. Extending the fingers moving them
She holds her finger by its tip (where the fingernail is) and gives it a pull. While it is pulled, she moves it in a circular motion. 5 x clockwise and 5 x anti-clockwise. This is repeated for all fingers.
6. Rubbing the fingers
This part of the video is self-explanatory.
7. Holding the hand by a finger and giving it a shake
Akiyo comments that she is moving her right hand (the hand holding the finger) only while her left-hand stays relaxed. Make sure to keep the pull on the finger while doing this. Do this about 10 times and repeat for all fingers.
That's it! Her hand is feeling a lot lighter now!
Hope this helps you all enjoy the video more! Now go out and enjoy climbing!
Thank you so much for your effort!
Thank you so much !
Thanks! Gonna save this to refer back to.
no finger injury in her whole career, that's amazing.
Thank you for this video, my physical therapist recommended this after I went in for a bouldering related finger injury.
20 years of (intense/competitive) climbing without any finger injury O_O that's Akiyo san for you! thank you for these finger care tips!
中身はすごく役に立つのに、怒涛の決めポーズ智亜選手の連続でどうしても笑ってしまうw
指ケアのシェア有難うございます‼︎
20年間登られていて全く怪我がないのに驚きです
指のケア、早速今日からやってみます！それにしても長年登っていて指が変形していないのは驚きました。日々のケアの賜物ですね。
私は2ヶ月前に肘の内側の靭帯を伸ばしてしまい、今はグレードを抑えて登っています。ですので、肘のケアの動画などあれば嬉しいです！
私は海外在住者ですが、こうした動画を周りの皆にも是非紹介したいです。もし英語字幕作成で人手が必要だったらボランティアで手伝いますので教えて下さい。英語字幕を待っている人も多いようですので。
Oh, this felt so good 🤯🥹
Thank you! I'll definitely start doing it regularly 🙂
これはリアルタイム版も欲しいです。
一緒に全部の指ができると助かります。是非！
指の怪我無いのは凄い。
勉強になりました👍
Brief translation of the main points.
1. 手首を持って前後にブラブラ
Hold your wrist and shake it back and forward. Do this about 10 times.
2. 水かきをぐりぐり
Press and rub on the webbing between your fingers. 10 times for each finger.
3. 手のひらを分ける
Separate the palm. With your thumb on your palm, peel off your palm joints as if you are trying to separate the bones in your hand. (The verb here is はがす which means to peel or to tear off?) You will be able to tell which parts are stiff and don't move, so move and peel those parts.
4. 関節を1つずつ反らす
Bend the joint one at a time. Bend from the joint at the base of your finger (MCP joint). Then repeat with the other joints going up (PIP, DIP). Lastly, bend your whole finger.
5. 指を引っ張って回す
Pull and turn your fingers. While pulling your finger, rotate it 5 times each direction.
6. 指をさする
Rub your fingers. Make a circle and rub your fingers about 10 times each.
7. 手を持って上下にブラブラ
While holding your finger, shake your hand up and down. Only the hand holding the finger should be moving, the hand shaking should be relaxed. Do this holding each finger, about 10 times each.
Thank you so much, why? Is this just hand maintenance? Is it the stuff I should be doing daily? And thank you so much for the help. Your a godsend xD
Yup just general hand care. She mentions that it's good in general as well, not just for climbers. She says after climbing, before sleeping, or while taking a bath are times she likes to do the routine, but it can be done at anytime.
@@nomtotoro4092 thank you so much!
啓代さん、分かち合ってくれてありがとう！クライミングをしているとき指をよく怪我するから、必ずやってみる。
１回やってたあとで、手がhappyになりました! あきよさん教えた本当にありがとうございました!
今回も参考になる動画ありがとうございます。どのスポーツでも怪我しないのが一流アスリートの条件の一つなのでしょうね。凄いです！！次回も楽しみにしています！！
Amazing, going to try this right away~! Thanks Akiyo
I am always impressed by the Japanese team in internationnal competions !
I am so glad you three made this RUclips channel and wish you all the best !
Thank you (:
クライミング選手は指がまっすぐ伸ばせなくなるって聞いたことあったんですが、そんなことなかったですね。
啓代さんの指綺麗です😃
待ってました！啓代様！
ケア方法ありがとうございます！指を大事にして僕も長年楽しんで登りたいと思います♪ﾞ
クライミングがこんなにブームになる前からのファンより
Hello from Sweden! We are huge fans after watching you guys compete in the world cups :) so excited you have started a channel!!! I'd love to see videos about what a typical day or week looks like for you, how you train for speed climbing, what it's like traveling around the world for competitions, any tips or tricks like the ones you have already posted, and basically anything else that you create 😃
良い情報ありがとう
日本語がわからないので、Google翻訳者を使用しました。
映像を探してみませんでしたが、運動前後のストレッチも教えていただければと思います。
また、英語や韓国語の字幕もサポート可能であれば良いようです。
幸せな運動をしてください〜
This is a life saviour. Thank you so much!!! It works wonders
Damn, I'm so early the subtitles aren't up yet. I'll come back later 😅
you can get youtube to translate if you go to settings, it works well enough for this video
@@mplaine77 Subtitles on -> Settings -> subtitles -> Auto translate -> English.
@@mplaine77 I mean I was able to put on English auto generated subtitles, I checked before I advised you, oh well.
動画見ながら真似してみました😆指が軽くなった気がします🎶✨次回の動画も楽しみにしています❣️
Thank you for this video. I followed along and my fingers feel so much better.
thank you!! have been looking for some more stretches to help me with tendonitis in my hands and this has been so good!! would love to see more stretches from akiyo! shoulder stretches and how to prevent shoulder injury? :P
Thank you for sharing.
指が軽くなった気がする！！
次回も神企画の予感しかしないっす👍
本当にありがとうございます😊
Can you ask Akiyo if she has a wrist warmup/warmdown routine as well?
I did this with you during the video and my hands feel so good! Thank you.
こんなに念入りにハンドマッサージやるのか！ためになるー！！
すごい勉強になりました！
あなたたちはすごいです
I've been doing this routine after almost each session since I watched this. Exercise 3 made me realize that I sometimes do have knots/tension at the locations Akiyo-san works on, especially between index and middle finger of my left hand.
SAME
Greeting from a brasilian climber! Thank you for the videos!
I'm pretty sure it won't look good if I give ring massages to my fingers while going back home...
But I loved the vid!!
Good job guys!!!
Your hands and forearms are very toned, look very strong
3:57 I'm sure if I do this in the gym, all the girls will look at me weird
手がものすごく軽くなりました！
手以外にもされてる事があれば教えていただきたいです！
Hands down my new favourite channel, this is genius
20 years of top-end climbing with no finger injuries is incredible.... But I'd like to know the reasoning behind the various finger massages Akiyo uses - is it flexibility? Reducing scarring? Increased blood flow? Preventing inflammation?
From having just done it, and my own thoughts, i'd think it's to increase mobility in the joints and ligaments. If they're healthy and have mobility their less likely to get injured.
I would say all of what you just wrote, it all goes hand in hand
指ケアの動画ありがとうございました。参考にさせて頂いています。
まだ、登り方が下手でどうしても腕が張ってしまうので、腕のケアとかがあったら教えて下さい。
指皮のケアの方法も知りたいです😆
beautiful hands love you akiyo 🖤
Go Akiyo! Thanks for this.
🐈 gracias!! Los mejores tips😊
I don't understand Japanese. I have no idea what's happening. I have idea what anyone is saying. I still enjoy this video.
You can turn on English captions
The car scene in the end kinda looks like a family trip lol
7 Steps:
1. Hold wrist and shake hand
2. Massage webbing between fingers
3. Massage hand between bones
4. Stretch/bend each finger joint on each finger
5. Pull and rotate each finger
6. Massage each finger
7. Hold and shake each finger
某整体院から教わったケアと違いますね。これからはこっちをやるようにします！
手首や肘のケア方法についてもお教えいただきたいです
指のケアは本当に大事ですよね。
参考になります。
他にもクライミング前のアップはどんな事をしているのでしょう？
We need English subtitles :D
도움 되었습니다.
This is so great Akiyo!!!
来た！
Thanks!
野口さんが私の小学校の時の担任の先生にそっくりすぎて辛い。
変形で、痛くなった指もしっかりこの動作するべきですか☹️とても痛いし、かかりつけ医に相談したら治すのは難しいとのこと。
リアルタイム版がほしい!
美人すぎて腰が抜ける
1:17
Glad I understood almost everything. Did you three ever injured yourself? 他の怪我をしたことはありますか？
At least she didn't, but her techniqe based climbing plays a big role in that I would guess
@@leowei9065 And being feather-light I'd guess.
すご。本当に指がめっちゃ軽くなりました(*^_^*)
ワールドクラスのクライマーのRUclipsは世界中の人が見ていますね。英語字幕つけてあげてくださいね(^_-)-☆
これって無料でいいんですか？？てか無料で続けてください、クライミング燃えてる家族でみてます！
Pls turn on autogenerated English captions 😥 they don't have to be perfect but I wanna learn from the best!
You can turn on auto-generated closed captions in English!
Thank you!!
Thank you! Domo arrigato!
ありがとうございます。韓国から！
Love your channel guys. More please! :-)
can i know what should i do when my fingers can’t straighten after an intense climb as it hurts especially on my ring finger?
3:54 音無しで見てるんですけど下の指のケアですかね？
Nice video. Would absolutely love a forearm care video. Mine get trashed, they're full of tension and knots.
いいビデオ。絶対に前腕ケアビデオが大好きです。鉱山はゴミ箱に入れられ、緊張と結び目でいっぱいです。
cuteness overload :D
yes yes yes yes yes yes
Tomoa! are youu the Bruce´s reencarnation?? it could be
指回しをしているところで痙ってしまった（笑）
niceniçu !
指の怪我をしたことはない？(*^◯^*)ラキーー
안녕하세요
thank you!