If you have a pré 1996 model, you might wanna check for a hidden bolt between the oil filter, oil look through glass and round clutch pack cover area. I learned the hard way.
This man man puts the doctor in the dr650! He really makes great videos. You can tell he knows what he talking about! I feel comfortable doing anything he has a video about!
Every time I see a 30+ minute video I’m like “this guy is crazy, no one watches a 30 minute video.” Then I watch it and im i think “ok this is my go to video when i do my clutch this winter” nice and detailed and takes the guesswork out of it. Thanks
Thank you for the comment, I am happy that you find the information usefully. And for the record, sometimes I wonder if I'm crazy as well.... Thanks again Dino
I watched parts of it over the past week or so, not thinking I could sit still for the whole video. But it's like taking a dog on a hike. They go ahead, come back, run ahead,come back etc. Probably watched the whole video 3 times yesterday.
@@DinosTinkerShed he was a good one. You're tone and inflection during explanation reminded me of him. I really enjoy the videos, keep up the good work!!
Kia ora from New Zealand. Great video Dino, I picked up lots of tips. I really like that cardboard template for the bolts. I always get in a muddle with a pile of bolts! Looking forward to move videos, my DR650 thanks you for them :)
The video I´ve been waiting for! Just realised the other day that my DR´s clutch is sliping, (and there´s proper play on the cable, so thats not causing it).. So yea I got to get in there. And ofcourse check the infamous NSU too while doing the clutch.
There is another adjustment of the cable a little forward down the cable. Also it's possible to lay down the motorcycle and change the clutch without draining the oil.
I don't know how I missed that additional adjuster ronefe but thank you for pointing it out, also great tip on laying the bike over, never seen that before and I'm sure it will help others with their project. Dino
Very good video Dino. I have wired my neutral switch as a "to be sure to be sure". I have always used a cardboard template for years. This vid will enable "first timers" to complete this important job on the DR. Thankyou. Mal in Australia
Thank you for taking the time to comment Mal, you can never be to careful so safety wiring can add another layer of comfort and security to a riders preparations. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Dino
What a great video. Extremely informative and demonstrates, you don’t need special tools to work on a DR. Thank you. This is gong to really help in my search for a DR650.
Very good videos, easy to see what's going on, easy to understand. .super great as a new dr650 owner I'm very thankful...thanks from southwest Georgia 🤘 💪
Very Good overall Clutch replacement video. Another reason why your recommendation to buy a repair manual specific to the bike is important.: There were a couple of things that weren't shown or clearly pointed out during the video. Making a how-to video, editing it, and not overbaking it is not easy. You kept it interesting
Thank you for the feed back, as I often say, I am an amateur, and do miss things or forget to mention them in the video. If there are things I missed I please let me know, I want to ensure anyone watching gets the best information possible, thank you in advance. Dino👍
Nice vid ...because I'm about to do the same thing with my '12 DR with 18K (miles) on the odo. And swapping in a new clutch cable as well. Agree with LifeExpert: all was good until ya missed a *BIG* part of disassembly (and reassembly!) by omitting removing/reinstalling the hub and basket assemblies. There's a couple thrust washers and a bushing that can cause you grief if they are worn. If the bushing and/or thrust washers are worn, and you don't replace them, you can end up doing the job over again ...especially if you're dealing with a dragging clutch and your cable adjustment was used up trying to get things right. Good idea to replace the bushing and thrust washers as part of the rebuild. Looks like you got lucky with the NSU bolts. Good idea to shoot a blast of brake cleaner into the holes followed by a blast of air to remove the residual engine oil prior to re-threading the blue Loctited screws . Another consideration is scoring some hex head bolts in lieu of the JIS/phillips head screws (or the safety wire kit you mentioned). Using the hex heads can make it a lot easier when removal time comes and offers some “real estate” to possibly drill a small hole in each head for safety wire (if you're not using the kit); that belt and suspenders kinda thing.
Dino, this video is great. I appreciate you taking all the time to dig into it. I’ve got my case cover off and cleaning the gasket off and had a question. You said you’re using Roloc. Is there a specific one? I’m worried about damaging the metal. Also did you use a gasket remover paste or spray?
The one I use is the finest of the conditioning disks. I think it's green, essentially it is scotchbright I order mine on amazon, they come in fine medium and course, the fine is what I use with a light touch. Glad the video is helpful. Dino
Great job Dino. Very informative and well made video. You must be a teacher by trade. I wash all my parts with isopropyl alcohol. Its cheaper and leaves no residue. Did you clean out and re-lube your clutch cable ? 👍🏻 🇦🇺
Justgit, thank you for the feedback, I sometimes do use isopropyl alcohol and always have it in the shop, it does work well. I did not clean and lube the cable but it is not a bad thing to do. Thank you for the complement but I'm not a teacher, I'm actually an arborist by trade. Thanks again for the comments Dino
Dino. Great video, but you skipped over the removal of the clutch basket. This is needed to get to the NSU screws. Could you add this segment to your video? Thx.
Thank you for the comment. I think it would be easier to make a video specifically on the NSU itself. That would have to be an "off season" video for me. Thank you for the question, I will see what I can do. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedIf you remove the basket check the condition of the pins which hold the entire basket assembly together. I am currently dealing with the aftermath of my basket, drive gear and shock assembly parting. Made a huge mess of the breather cover and crankcase behind and shaved the end off the oil pump idler shaft. This necessitated head and cylinder removal to get a new idler shaft in from behind by pulling one in down the conrod hole. Lots of metal shavings generated. Failed 1000km from home without warning.
Love you hard work and time that you've sunk into these high production quality vids. I have a question for anyone: My DR650 still has power to the transmision when my clutch lever is fully pulled, what is that possibly? An adjustment or a rebuild? The cycle will still roll forward ( I can hold it back with leg power but its a fight) in gear with clutch lever fullly pulled to bar. Obviously I don't expect and guaranteed answer but a starting point to check would be nice. Thanks and keep it up!
@@bike_build_wander if you have adjusted free play, I would ask when you changed the oil last and what oil are you running. I have had some oils, particularly motul, drag a bit more on the plates. I currently run shell T4 Rotel and engagement and plate stick is much improved. Start with the simple things before getting into the clutch. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Excellent advice! I am planning an oil change soon, waiting on some parts to go along with it. Unfortunately, I bought the Motul oil before reading the comments about it's lack of performance. I will change oil, adjust the free play, see what happens and go from there! Thanks again from a home mechanic.
Not only the most thorough how-to vid on dr650 clutch and nsu but hands down the best how-to vid in the etherverse... thank you.. however, I was most intrigued by the selection of Motul oil... what inference led you to select Motul and is still your goto oil?
Glad you liked the video, I went with motul for a few reasons, first it got great reviews for slick clutch engagement and second I had a friend who used to road race and he swore by it. What I found was that it actually made the clutch so slick, that when it sat for more that a day or two, the clutch pack would stick together at start up making the first gear selection very hard. I switched to Valvoline and the issue went away.
@@DinosTinkerShed oh wow first time I've heard so slick they stick. So you switched to Valvoline? ..great to know .. I'll use Motul in my other motors then. Thank you
@@hobonickel840 no probleam, again I'm not a mechanic, I only know what worked for me and what happens when I switched from motul, still think it's great oil, may just have been the clutch pack I used did not like it.
Thank you for the question, I have never had an issue with it, I use the least aggressive scotch bright conditioning disk and don't apply very much pressure. I would not use a sanding disk of course. Dino
Awesome work again Dino. I'll be doing this job soon and won't even bother looking for a better guide as it won't exist. Is there any chance in future videos you change the font of your on-screen messages to something a little less fancy looking? For those of us who use our phones for RUclips in the workshop it is rather hard to make out what information you have written. Cheers and thanks again!!!!!
@@DinosTinkerShed Will do. I jump around your video list depending on what needs doing on the DR. So maybe this is now a non issue. Thanks again on behalf of all the DR owners who have been lucky enough to come across your channel.
My pleasure, the videos are fun to make and the support for the channel is fun to watch grow. Thank you again for the point on the font size and type, Ill continue to refine it. Dino
Hi dino. I’m in the middle of this job right now, as I am torquing the 4 screws, the clutch would spin. Do you just put the bike in gear, then torque it from there?? Thanks and awesome content as usual!
I think I was able to hold the basket by hand but I think that would work, I would try it, please let me know how it works. And thank you for the questions. Again, I'm not a mechanic. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I guess I cannot put the bike in gear now, cause the clutch cable is out. Ha ha ! I’ll have to give your method a go later. Thanks again for your replies.
After replacing the clutch i hear a continuing clucking sound while the engine runs. The engine sounds like cluck cluck cluck cluck cluck as it runs. Can you give me any ideas as to what i did wrong. Thanks
I am sorry to hear that, its never fun when your project is taking a wrong turn. I appolagize for the late response on this. Its hard with out hearing it and seeing it first hand but my guess is that it is not quite assembled correctly, it should be relatively silent. I hope this helps. Dino
Hey Dino, I'm following your videos while servicing my bike. Is the gasket seal mask you painted on mandatory, or is the gasket itself enough to prevent oil leakages? Ron
Thank you for the question Ron, the manual does not require it. I apply it to the cover only for the purpose of future removal. With a coat or sealant on the outside, often the gasket will cleanly peal from the case when next removing the cover Hope this helps. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Thank you for answering. I currently am having problems taking the clutch cover off. It seems glued shut. I've hit it with a rubber mallet more and harder than probably necessary, do you have any tips on how to remove the clutch cover?
Hmmm, have you tried gently heating the seam with a blow dryer or heat gun on low setting? Sometimes this can help soften and silicone or hardened gasket enough to move when tapping.
@@DinosTinkerShed pppfffff... apparently the 1992 RSE has an extra bolt hidden right between the filter and look through glass. I've been chizzeling my way around but eventually gave up thinking some garage poltergeist was playing a prank on me. Checked a video before going to bed of the specific RSE version I have and the bolt just presented itself. Tommorow, I'll start cleaning all the debris fallen in between the gears and deburring the edges... Rookie mistake, lesson learned.
Hi again! One more thing that would be good to check when doing this is the crank shaft primary gear nut. I read on an DR forum that that comes loose sometimes too. You can find videos here on yt on the subject too. Oh and one question: is the "number two steel (?)", the first steel friction surface on the transmission side, removable, or is it fixed to the clutch housing?
Uggg that is not good, at least you found it, I am assuming it was a NSU bolt? Looks like you will be into the side case for some NSU securement. Please let me know how you make out. Dino
That is a great tip and one I have never heard of, thank you for sharing and Ill try that the next time I have to remove a bolt with red locktight on it. Than you for taking the time to comment. Dino
Thank you for the feedback. Just curious, are you referring to the throw out bearing and pivot assembly wearing faster or the friction disks and steels? I was always under the impression that stiffer springs prolonged the life of the friction material and steels due to the fact they reduced the potential for clutch slippage under higher loads like WOT applications, thereby reducing glazing and heat which causes steel warping. I could see the bearing and pivot assembly wearing faster due to the increase in load applied to them. I have been wrong many time and will be again I'm sure, just looking for clarification. Thanks again Dino
Hi 👋 from Trinidad 🇹🇹 like all your videos on the DR 👏🏼 I notice when you’re testing the clutch you bike dives a lot . Q have you ever changed the fork oils ? Or fork seals ?
Thanks for the question. I ha e not yet opened the forks up. At some point I am just not sure at what time. I am sure that with the large tank and my size it could benefit from some tuning. Thanks again Dino
All the steel plates are the same, the friction plates has a one which is different. There is a debate if it should go first or last, because the manual has two different versions.
Yes I did, I have a simple set of clutch holding plyers that I used to hold the basket during torqueing. Next time I am into the clutch Ill make a more detailed video on tools. Thank you for the idea. Dino
Hello! How did you get off the latest piece, after removing the plates? Are you using a special tool or just something that comes in handy and some skill? 😀 I have to get that one out in order to reach to the NSU
Hi and thank you for your question, I reviewed the video and can not believe I did not cover this. I used a clutch holding tool like this one from amazon to hold the inner basket while I used an impact gun to take the nut off. Sorry for the long hyperlink. www.amazon.ca/ATPEAM-Motorcycle-Clutch-Flywheel-Holding/dp/B0963XXXRF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1QBOIP1KMV0JY&keywords=clutch+holding+tool&qid=1651092646&sprefix=clutch+holding+tool%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQjlISUI1UTJTVFpZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3NTA1MkZXOEc1MzJDRFZNTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjYxOTQ1SkRKTjRINlVWTjM5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Thank you again for the question. Dino
You got a lot more miles out of your clutch than I did. I ended up putting 3 clutches in my DR. I will admit I made that engine scream off road like a scalded ape. The OEM clutch didn’t work as good for me as the Barnett Kevlar clutch. That clutch grabbed much better than stock.
I believe the clutch had been changed before I bought the bike so I can't say for sure how long it lasted. I ride fairly gently so I'm most likely not the best gauge for durability. I have used Barnett clutches before and they do work well, this DP was just a good deal and seems to work well for needs. Thanks for the comment. Dino
I would have pulled the shaft in the side cover and lubed and check the seal I have had them get water down inside the shaft and seize up or get quite stiff. Also lube the clutch cable.
I used a DP clutch kit with steels, friction plates and springs. Holding up fine and Overall I am happy with the product. I do notice the clutch pack will stick a bit more than stock if the bike sits for a few days, I think this is because both the steels and friction plates are smooth which leads to the plates to stick togeather a bit when the bike sits for a week or so. Dino
Also helps to soak the plates in oil for a few hours before so they really absorb the oil before the steels go in ..probably would save excess ware and maybe a bit less friction when putting in gear
The DP part number was 1131-0146, I have not really noticed any reduction in heat to be honest but a big air/oil cooled single will always run on the hot side I would think. Thank you for the comment Dino
If you have a pré 1996 model, you might wanna check for a hidden bolt between the oil filter, oil look through glass and round clutch pack cover area.
I learned the hard way.
Thank you for the information Ron, I'll pin his comment if you don,t mind for others to reference
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Not a problem at all. Again, thank you for your generous amount of information!
This man man puts the doctor in the dr650! He really makes great videos. You can tell he knows what he talking about! I feel comfortable doing anything he has a video about!
You are too kind, I'm just a amateur though. I am glad you enjoy the content and find it useful. Thank you so much
Dino
Every time I see a 30+ minute video I’m like “this guy is crazy, no one watches a 30 minute video.” Then I watch it and im i think “ok this is my go to video when i do my clutch this winter” nice and detailed and takes the guesswork out of it. Thanks
Thank you for the comment, I am happy that you find the information usefully. And for the record, sometimes I wonder if I'm crazy as well....
Thanks again
Dino
This just happened to me! Haha great video. 👍
I watched parts of it over the past week or so, not thinking I could sit still for the whole video. But it's like taking a dog on a hike. They go ahead, come back, run ahead,come back etc. Probably watched the whole video 3 times yesterday.
I can't belive I know how to change my clutch now. Ty and best regards from Israel.
Thank you so much for this video Dino! I'm following it step by step to replace the clutch on my "new" 2008 DR650 😀
Good luck
Dino
The Andy Rooney of motorcycle maintenance. I love it!!!
I miss Andy Rooney, thanks for the comment.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed he was a good one. You're tone and inflection during explanation reminded me of him. I really enjoy the videos, keep up the good work!!
Your videos are awesome and you're a great instructor. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment I'm glad you enjoy them.
Dino
“Man O man if only the rain can make my hair grow” Did I hear you correctly?? 😂 Love the channel Dino
Kia ora from New Zealand. Great video Dino, I picked up lots of tips. I really like that cardboard template for the bolts. I always get in a muddle with a pile of bolts! Looking forward to move videos, my DR650 thanks you for them :)
So glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for the comments
Dino
The video I´ve been waiting for! Just realised the other day that my DR´s clutch is sliping, (and there´s proper play on the cable, so thats not causing it).. So yea I got to get in there. And ofcourse check the infamous NSU too while doing the clutch.
Hope the video helps you with your project. It's not too hard to do, just take your time.
Thanks for the comment
Dino
Found this channel recently, I'm loving it! Better than tv. I appreciate the work that goes into these!
Thank you for the comment and I'm glad you like the content.
Dino
There is another adjustment of the cable a little forward down the cable. Also it's possible to lay down the motorcycle and change the clutch without draining the oil.
I don't know how I missed that additional adjuster ronefe but thank you for pointing it out, also great tip on laying the bike over, never seen that before and I'm sure it will help others with their project.
Dino
Very good video Dino. I have wired my neutral switch as a "to be sure to be sure". I have always used a cardboard template for years. This vid will enable "first timers" to complete this important job on the DR. Thankyou. Mal in Australia
Thank you for taking the time to comment Mal, you can never be to careful so safety wiring can add another layer of comfort and security to a riders preparations. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Dino
What a great video. Extremely informative and demonstrates, you don’t need special tools to work on a DR. Thank you. This is gong to really help in my search for a DR650.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm so glad you like it😁
damn I love this channel - every time I need to do something above my mechanical know how I find it on this channel. Thank you!!
@andy3d1 I'm glad you enjoy the videos, I need to get back in the shed and make some new content.
Dino
Excellent how to video. Just what I needed. Thank you.
Glad to help, and thank you for your great content as well!👍
Dino
Dino thank you so much for sharing your knowledge you’re a great teacher!! Subscribed!!
Thank you. Glad I can help
Dino, This is a great easy watching and informative video. Thank you
Very glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Dino
Very good videos, easy to see what's going on, easy to understand. .super great as a new dr650 owner I'm very thankful...thanks from southwest Georgia 🤘 💪
Very Good overall Clutch replacement video. Another reason why your recommendation to buy a repair manual specific to the bike is important.: There were a couple of things that weren't shown or clearly pointed out during the video. Making a how-to video, editing it, and not overbaking it is not easy. You kept it interesting
Thank you for the feed back, as I often say, I am an amateur, and do miss things or forget to mention them in the video. If there are things I missed I please let me know, I want to ensure anyone watching gets the best information possible, thank you in advance.
Dino👍
I never thought of painting the rtv onto the surface. I will definitely do that next time I work on my magna
Dino if you slight smear some grease onto the new gasket then wipe of the excess the gasket will come off next time with ease.
I will do that next time, thank you for the tip
Dino
Nice vid ...because I'm about to do the same thing with my '12 DR with 18K (miles) on the odo. And swapping in a new clutch cable as well. Agree with LifeExpert: all was good until ya missed a *BIG* part of disassembly (and reassembly!) by omitting removing/reinstalling the hub and basket assemblies. There's a couple thrust washers and a bushing that can cause you grief if they are worn. If the bushing and/or thrust washers are worn, and you don't replace them, you can end up doing the job over again ...especially if you're dealing with a dragging clutch and your cable adjustment was used up trying to get things right. Good idea to replace the bushing and thrust washers as part of the rebuild.
Looks like you got lucky with the NSU bolts. Good idea to shoot a blast of brake cleaner into the holes followed by a blast of air to remove the residual engine oil prior to re-threading the blue Loctited screws . Another consideration is scoring some hex head bolts in lieu of the JIS/phillips head screws (or the safety wire kit you mentioned). Using the hex heads can make it a lot easier when removal time comes and offers some “real estate” to possibly drill a small hole in each head for safety wire (if you're not using the kit); that belt and suspenders kinda thing.
Thanks for the feedback and information. Great points all around.
Dino
Dino, this video is great. I appreciate you taking all the time to dig into it.
I’ve got my case cover off and cleaning the gasket off and had a question.
You said you’re using Roloc. Is there a specific one? I’m worried about damaging the metal. Also did you use a gasket remover paste or spray?
The one I use is the finest of the conditioning disks. I think it's green, essentially it is scotchbright I order mine on amazon, they come in fine medium and course, the fine is what I use with a light touch. Glad the video is helpful.
Dino
Great job Dino. Very informative and well made video. You must be a teacher by trade. I wash all my parts with isopropyl alcohol. Its cheaper and leaves no residue. Did you clean out and re-lube your clutch cable ? 👍🏻 🇦🇺
Justgit, thank you for the feedback, I sometimes do use isopropyl alcohol and always have it in the shop, it does work well. I did not clean and lube the cable but it is not a bad thing to do.
Thank you for the complement but I'm not a teacher, I'm actually an arborist by trade.
Thanks again for the comments
Dino
Dino. Great video, but you skipped over the removal of the clutch basket. This is needed to get to the NSU screws. Could you add this segment to your video? Thx.
Thank you for the comment. I think it would be easier to make a video specifically on the NSU itself. That would have to be an "off season" video for me. Thank you for the question, I will see what I can do.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedIf you remove the basket check the condition of the pins which hold the entire basket assembly together. I am currently dealing with the aftermath of my basket, drive gear and shock assembly parting. Made a huge mess of the breather cover and crankcase behind and shaved the end off the oil pump idler shaft. This necessitated head and cylinder removal to get a new idler shaft in from behind by pulling one in down the conrod hole. Lots of metal shavings generated. Failed 1000km from home without warning.
Love you hard work and time that you've sunk into these high production quality vids. I have a question for anyone: My DR650 still has power to the transmision when my clutch lever is fully pulled, what is that possibly? An adjustment or a rebuild? The cycle will still roll forward ( I can hold it back with leg power but its a fight) in gear with clutch lever fullly pulled to bar. Obviously I don't expect and guaranteed answer but a starting point to check would be nice. Thanks and keep it up!
@@bike_build_wander if you have adjusted free play, I would ask when you changed the oil last and what oil are you running. I have had some oils, particularly motul, drag a bit more on the plates. I currently run shell T4 Rotel and engagement and plate stick is much improved. Start with the simple things before getting into the clutch.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Excellent advice! I am planning an oil change soon, waiting on some parts to go along with it. Unfortunately, I bought the Motul oil before reading the comments about it's lack of performance. I will change oil, adjust the free play, see what happens and go from there! Thanks again from a home mechanic.
Yep, was on the highway today noticed slippage the winter hand guard was pushing on the lever just enough it was slipping
LOL I think that would have me thinking the worst as I rode along, until I realized the issue.
Thanks for the comment
Dino
Great video. Gave me confidence to do the same job with mine. Thank you!
Great to hear, glad I can help.
Thank you for the comment
Dino
Not only the most thorough how-to vid on dr650 clutch and nsu but hands down the best how-to vid in the etherverse... thank you.. however,
I was most intrigued by the selection of Motul oil... what inference led you to select Motul and is still your goto oil?
Glad you liked the video, I went with motul for a few reasons, first it got great reviews for slick clutch engagement and second I had a friend who used to road race and he swore by it.
What I found was that it actually made the clutch so slick, that when it sat for more that a day or two, the clutch pack would stick together at start up making the first gear selection very hard. I switched to Valvoline and the issue went away.
@@DinosTinkerShed oh wow first time I've heard so slick they stick. So you switched to Valvoline? ..great to know .. I'll use Motul in my other motors then. Thank you
@@hobonickel840 no probleam, again I'm not a mechanic, I only know what worked for me and what happens when I switched from motul, still think it's great oil, may just have been the clutch pack I used did not like it.
Great content dino. Is it safe to use the rotoloc prep disc for removing the gasket ?
Thank you for the question, I have never had an issue with it, I use the least aggressive scotch bright conditioning disk and don't apply very much pressure. I would not use a sanding disk of course.
Dino
A little hello from France. Your vidéos are really well done, thanks for that. +1 👍👍👍👍
A little hello back! thank you for the nice reply, glad you are enjoying the channel.
Dino
Very good movie, thank you !
Good job man!!! Very good job👍👍👍
Thanks, appreciate the feedback and I'm glad you enjoyed it
Dino
Awesome work again Dino. I'll be doing this job soon and won't even bother looking for a better guide as it won't exist. Is there any chance in future videos you change the font of your on-screen messages to something a little less fancy looking? For those of us who use our phones for RUclips in the workshop it is rather hard to make out what information you have written.
Cheers and thanks again!!!!!
I have been experimenting with cleaner fonts and ways to present written notes. please let me know if you feel I am improving or not.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Will do. I jump around your video list depending on what needs doing on the DR. So maybe this is now a non issue. Thanks again on behalf of all the DR owners who have been lucky enough to come across your channel.
My pleasure, the videos are fun to make and the support for the channel is fun to watch grow.
Thank you again for the point on the font size and type, Ill continue to refine it.
Dino
Hi dino. I’m in the middle of this job right now, as I am torquing the 4 screws, the clutch would spin. Do you just put the bike in gear, then torque it from there?? Thanks and awesome content as usual!
I think I was able to hold the basket by hand but I think that would work, I would try it, please let me know how it works. And thank you for the questions. Again, I'm not a mechanic.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I guess I cannot put the bike in gear now, cause the clutch cable is out. Ha ha ! I’ll have to give your method a go later. Thanks again for your replies.
After replacing the clutch i hear a continuing clucking sound while the engine runs. The engine sounds like cluck cluck cluck cluck cluck as it runs. Can you give me any ideas as to what i did wrong. Thanks
I am sorry to hear that, its never fun when your project is taking a wrong turn. I appolagize for the late response on this.
Its hard with out hearing it and seeing it first hand but my guess is that it is not quite assembled correctly, it should be relatively silent.
I hope this helps.
Dino
Great video, thank you!
Hey Dino, I'm following your videos while servicing my bike. Is the gasket seal mask you painted on mandatory, or is the gasket itself enough to prevent oil leakages?
Ron
Thank you for the question Ron, the manual does not require it. I apply it to the cover only for the purpose of future removal. With a coat or sealant on the outside, often the gasket will cleanly peal from the case when next removing the cover
Hope this helps.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Thank you for answering. I currently am having problems taking the clutch cover off. It seems glued shut. I've hit it with a rubber mallet more and harder than probably necessary, do you have any tips on how to remove the clutch cover?
Hmmm, have you tried gently heating the seam with a blow dryer or heat gun on low setting? Sometimes this can help soften and silicone or hardened gasket enough to move when tapping.
@@DinosTinkerShed pppfffff... apparently the 1992 RSE has an extra bolt hidden right between the filter and look through glass. I've been chizzeling my way around but eventually gave up thinking some garage poltergeist was playing a prank on me. Checked a video before going to bed of the specific RSE version I have and the bolt just presented itself. Tommorow, I'll start cleaning all the debris fallen in between the gears and deburring the edges...
Rookie mistake, lesson learned.
Hi again! One more thing that would be good to check when doing this is the crank shaft primary gear nut. I read on an DR forum that that comes loose sometimes too. You can find videos here on yt on the subject too. Oh and one question: is the "number two steel (?)", the first steel friction surface on the transmission side, removable, or is it fixed to the clutch housing?
Thank you for the information. The #2 steal is removable. It is held in with a thin wire circlip
@@DinosTinkerShed Thanks!
After watching this video last night I found one stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. Brand new bike to me, so I was doing an oil change.
Uggg that is not good, at least you found it, I am assuming it was a NSU bolt?
Looks like you will be into the side case for some NSU securement. Please let me know how you make out.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed will do! Thanks for the video should be a lot more comfortable with tearing it apart this weekend! Updates to come
Great video. very helpful!!
A great video, thank you very much. Do you plan to do a valve adjustment video for the DR650?
Thank you for the comment. Yes I have that in the works.
Dino
Great tutorial, thank you Dino.
Thank you for the comment
Dino
If you want go remove red the ad locked screw you can use a soldering iron to heat the screws
That is a great tip and one I have never heard of, thank you for sharing and Ill try that the next time I have to remove a bolt with red locktight on it.
Than you for taking the time to comment.
Dino
also the stiffer springs will wear the clutch faster than stock sprigs but in my eyes a must
Thank you for the feedback. Just curious, are you referring to the throw out bearing and pivot assembly wearing faster or the friction disks and steels? I was always under the impression that stiffer springs prolonged the life of the friction material and steels due to the fact they reduced the potential for clutch slippage under higher loads like WOT applications, thereby reducing glazing and heat which causes steel warping.
I could see the bearing and pivot assembly wearing faster due to the increase in load applied to them.
I have been wrong many time and will be again I'm sure, just looking for clarification.
Thanks again
Dino
Hi 👋 from Trinidad 🇹🇹 like all your videos on the DR 👏🏼 I notice when you’re testing the clutch you bike dives a lot . Q have you ever changed the fork oils ? Or fork seals ?
Thanks for the question. I ha e not yet opened the forks up. At some point I am just not sure at what time. I am sure that with the large tank and my size it could benefit from some tuning.
Thanks again
Dino
Oh and Trinidad, wow that is awesome, so glad you like the videos.
Dino
All the steel plates are the same, the friction plates has a one which is different. There is a debate if it should go first or last, because the manual has two different versions.
I was wrong, the inner steel plate is also different.
Lasagna clutch, I like the Idea. Thanks for the lesson
Hi mate..did you use tools clutch
HUB,CLUTCH SLEEVE...need vlogs about that ...
Yes I did, I have a simple set of clutch holding plyers that I used to hold the basket during torqueing. Next time I am into the clutch Ill make a more detailed video on tools. Thank you for the idea.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed yes need vlog about that ..if you don't have flywheel.
Hello! How did you get off the latest piece, after removing the plates?
Are you using a special tool or just something that comes in handy and some skill? 😀
I have to get that one out in order to reach to the NSU
Hi and thank you for your question, I reviewed the video and can not believe I did not cover this. I used a clutch holding tool like this one from amazon to hold the inner basket while I used an impact gun to take the nut off. Sorry for the long hyperlink.
www.amazon.ca/ATPEAM-Motorcycle-Clutch-Flywheel-Holding/dp/B0963XXXRF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1QBOIP1KMV0JY&keywords=clutch+holding+tool&qid=1651092646&sprefix=clutch+holding+tool%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQjlISUI1UTJTVFpZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3NTA1MkZXOEc1MzJDRFZNTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjYxOTQ1SkRKTjRINlVWTjM5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Thank you again for the question.
Dino
Thank you!!! Loved it!!👍👍
You got a lot more miles out of your clutch than I did. I ended up putting 3 clutches in my DR. I will admit I made that engine scream off road like a scalded ape. The OEM clutch didn’t work as good for me as the Barnett Kevlar clutch. That clutch grabbed much better than stock.
I believe the clutch had been changed before I bought the bike so I can't say for sure how long it lasted. I ride fairly gently so I'm most likely not the best gauge for durability. I have used Barnett clutches before and they do work well, this DP was just a good deal and seems to work well for needs.
Thanks for the comment.
Dino
I have a question does all models of DR 650 use the same size of clutch plate?
Thank you for the questions. From 1996 on yes as I understand it they are the same. Prior to 1996 I believe they are different
I would have pulled the shaft in the side cover and lubed and check the seal I have had them get water down inside the shaft and seize up or get quite stiff. Also lube the clutch cable.
Both good points, thank you for the comment.
Dino
Thank you❤
What kind of clutch kit did you get and how is it holding up?
I used a DP clutch kit with steels, friction plates and springs. Holding up fine and Overall I am happy with the product. I do notice the clutch pack will stick a bit more than stock if the bike sits for a few days, I think this is because both the steels and friction plates are smooth which leads to the plates to stick togeather a bit when the bike sits for a week or so.
Dino
Also helps to soak the plates in oil for a few hours before so they really absorb the oil before the steels go in ..probably would save excess ware and maybe a bit less friction when putting in gear
Friction plates in oil I mean ..anyway binging your vids 😊tonight over a few beers lol ... 🎉
Did anyone else's spring retainer bolts immediately sear their hands off when torqued to 89 in-lbs?
great video thanks
Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
Dino
What part number on your clutch did you buy, I run the Suzuki 10w-40 does the Motul help on the heat from the DR650? GREAT video!!!
The DP part number was 1131-0146, I have not really noticed any reduction in heat to be honest but a big air/oil cooled single will always run on the hot side I would think.
Thank you for the comment
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Thanks - sure hope Suzuki keeps building the 400/650 bikes.
Me too
Am I blind, or did he not replace the last metal plate behind the wire thingy?
I could be wrong but it’s the same on the DRZ400 that last plate is slightly curved. If you remove it your clutch won’t engage properly
@@TrashPandaAct oh, thank you for the input, I will check for that once I get every part for that job, cheers!
Great video! Thanks
You're welcome! glad you enjoyed it.
Dino