I have paid the pawn on 4880 square meter farm in the Philippines. I have a mother and 10 yo son living there. They feed the cows, chickens and pigs and look after the place. The boy is rather industrious. He has a habit of collecting fallen but still acceptable coconuts to sell in the local market. He earns a few pesos per trip to town. The kid walks it. My thought would be, to get him started in stingless bees on our tiny farm. I understand that these tiny pollinators can and do multiply the crop harvests by increasing pollination.
would the bees blocking up the top vent hole mean the hive dose not need the additional airflow? my hole is on the middle box not the super through, do you normally run drain holes underneath for draining spilt honey, or water? mine cam with 2 drains they blocked 1 and made a tunnel on the other but mainly use the main tunnel for access
jako j no they will always build structure and or block up holes. But if you cut off this and have a look they maintain the hole size in terms of making 2-3 smaller holes or tunnels leading to the main hole. I don’t add drain holes to mine and haven’t had a problem.
Nick, is the mesh, that you've suggested to cover the vent holes, have holes small enough to prevent all types of larva from entering the hive? I have a similar piece of mesh with holes about 2mm diameter which, until your video, I didn't know what it was for. Would that be small enough to exclude lavae?
Question When you spoke about water forming at the bottom of the hive, would it be advisable to have a slightly slanted floor with a couple of holes covered with mesh to let the water drain out or will the brood cover the holes and block it? also how big can the hive get, obviously since they collect much less honey would it be advisable to build a large hive box? How big a colony can the stingless bee queen support before they need to be split
I wouldn’t make a sloped floor unless you have an off cut of timbers that are that way inclined. Everything has to be streamlined when working with native bees and repeatable. Even if you feel you will make only 1 hive you will get the bug and want another sooner or later. ☺️ For drain holes I would advise just drilling a couple of 8mm holes towards the back of the base of the hive. Drilling from the external of the hive will let you get the holes right close to the corners on the inside of the hive. Once these holes are done plug them with propolis. In the event of condensation simply poke the resin out and prop the front hive towards the back with a little 20mm stick under the front of the hive. I avoid mesh internally because you can’t poke the holes out very easy. I don’t see condensation issues in my hives unless a transfer has been done in the rain (I also avoid doing that now) so none of my hives have base drain holes. But in saying that I use cedar which is a very absorbent material. In regards to splitting stingless bees don’t need to be split and can remain in their hive. If you do want to split when the hives are fall to the top with pollen and honey. Not just structure touching the clear panel. Has to be both pollen and honey to see both halves go forward with 100% success. I hope this helps.
@@australiannativebee3662 Thank you so much for the update. the absorbant wood & pokeable hole without mesh really helps. Also the idea of using propolis as a sealant sounds great. thanks once again
I have paid the pawn on 4880 square meter farm in the Philippines. I have a mother and 10 yo son living there. They feed the cows, chickens and pigs and look after the place. The boy is rather industrious. He has a habit of collecting fallen but still acceptable coconuts to sell in the local market. He earns a few pesos per trip to town. The kid walks it. My thought would be, to get him started in stingless bees on our tiny farm. I understand that these tiny pollinators can and do multiply the crop harvests by increasing pollination.
Great!!! I'm from Brazil. My Focus is Melipona quadrifasciata, the Mandaçaia, native bee. Congratulations!!!
Try the Philippine version, Tetragonula Biroi.
Ventilation is more important than I thought. Thanks for the help Nick!
No problems mate! I hope this helps many bees survive and many people to design great hives.
You got great ideas in beekeeping,, keep it up mate
Thank you
Good video.
I love that there are no dislikes. This video is perfect. 😊
Thanks Nick. Have a major problem with this in hives in winter, Newcastle NSW area. Will try your solution. Makes sense.
No worries! Give it ago. If you can fully shade your hive with airflow above the top and then place it in a morning sunny location it also helps. 👍🏻
Mate, just what I needed to know
Good explanation Nick
Thanks Nick, I had try it but my bees close it very soon
Nice work!!
Kazi nzuri Kaka, nimejifunza.
Awesome vid!
would the bees blocking up the top vent hole mean the hive dose not need the additional airflow? my hole is on the middle box not the super through, do you normally run drain holes underneath for draining spilt honey, or water? mine cam with 2 drains they blocked 1 and made a tunnel on the other but mainly use the main tunnel for access
jako j no they will always build structure and or block up holes. But if you cut off this and have a look they maintain the hole size in terms of making 2-3 smaller holes or tunnels leading to the main hole. I don’t add drain holes to mine and haven’t had a problem.
Nick, is the mesh, that you've suggested to cover the vent holes, have holes small enough to prevent all types of larva from entering the hive? I have a similar piece of mesh with holes about 2mm diameter which, until your video, I didn't know what it was for. Would that be small enough to exclude lavae?
Hello.... Would the vents serve as an entry point for wasp eggs? Can anyone tell me? 🥵🥵
Question
When you spoke about water forming at the bottom of the hive, would it be advisable to have a slightly slanted floor with a couple of holes covered with mesh to let the water drain out or will the brood cover the holes and block it?
also how big can the hive get, obviously since they collect much less honey would it be advisable to build a large hive box? How big a colony can the stingless bee queen support before they need to be split
I wouldn’t make a sloped floor unless you have an off cut of timbers that are that way inclined. Everything has to be streamlined when working with native bees and repeatable. Even if you feel you will make only 1 hive you will get the bug and want another sooner or later. ☺️
For drain holes I would advise just drilling a couple of 8mm holes towards the back of the base of the hive. Drilling from the external of the hive will let you get the holes right close to the corners on the inside of the hive. Once these holes are done plug them with propolis. In the event of condensation simply poke the resin out and prop the front hive towards the back with a little 20mm stick under the front of the hive.
I avoid mesh internally because you can’t poke the holes out very easy. I don’t see condensation issues in my hives unless a transfer has been done in the rain (I also avoid doing that now) so none of my hives have base drain holes. But in saying that I use cedar which is a very absorbent material.
In regards to splitting stingless bees don’t need to be split and can remain in their hive. If you do want to split when the hives are fall to the top with pollen and honey. Not just structure touching the clear panel. Has to be both pollen and honey to see both halves go forward with 100% success.
I hope this helps.
@@australiannativebee3662 Thank you so much for the update. the absorbant wood & pokeable hole without mesh really helps. Also the idea of using propolis as a sealant sounds great. thanks once again
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Awesome information as always Nick. Thank you very much.please continue your great work 👍. Tricky Trev
SO HOW TO COLLECT THE QUEEN SIR?
Go the lefties.
Thanks Nick, I had try it but my bees close it very soon