wow that is really nice. looks better then the ones you can buy. I think I will have to build my own. keep up the good work. look forward to more of your videos, really enjoy them..
Glad to hear that you enjoy the show Robbi. It takes a lot of time and effort to film, edit and post a show and hearing appreciative comments like yours makes it worth all the time spent. thank for tuning in.
Exactly,i wasn't saying it in a bad way, i enjoy when someone builds something useful and all these creators build off of it giving it rhere sramp. that way all of us can see the likes and dislikes in all and make a product that works instead of trial and error for a time and alot of wasted wood. alot of us dont have the money for experimenting, thats why i appreciate what you and other creators do. thanks
I couldn't agree with you more Chad. That's the good thing about woodworkers.....for the most part.....we are will to share our experience and eliminate some frustration from the newcomers.
Off the subject, a little but I bought an Infinity Lock Miter Jr. Router bit and I saw where they sell a router sled also. I looked at it online and had the bright idea that as I own a DELTA 34-184 UNIVERSAL TENONING JIG that I don't use all that much but decided I would take the clamp off and use it to hold my extra long pieces of wood to use it on my router table to push the wood through my router with the infinity lock miter bit. It works great so I can put the long clamp back on it and it will still be used for a tenoning jig.
Another great project Ken. Can't have too many safety devices in a workshop, and I would sooner see something a touch over engineered than under engineered. I think jigs are the most underrated items in a workshop, they may take a little time to build, but for repeatable work, they are a godsend. Looking forward to your next project.
Thanks Brian. I totally agree with you on the jig issue. Definitely something that not many people pay attention to but they should. Thanks for tuning in again this week my friend. Great to hear from you.
You're very welcome Dale and if you get around to making one and have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in.
Ken, part two was a great finish to the sled. I know you got lots of use from it in that up coming project of yours. I hope to build one someday. Nice job. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
Thanks Paul. Glad that you enjoyed it. Always great to hear from you here on the show and other places on the web. Looking forward to seeing the next show that you produce.
Lol. I like your problem solving approach to the coping sled design. Much simpler than the woodpeckers coping sled. I’m going to try prototyping a design along the lines of your design. When I was evaluating the woodpeckers coping sled, the sliding hold down plate serves 2 purposes, rather than the woodpeckers design which requires two different clamps, and your design is more flexible.
I'm not really aware of the woodpecker design. We don't have Woodpecker products in my area that I have ever seen. Either way, thanks for tuning in and good luck on your design.
Great two parter Kenny. When you mentioned 'why over the top, and it's your show' you are right!! do what you do best and that's showing the best out of woodworking, and the fun/safety things that you can make, and if that means over the top, then so be it. I have just one important question though, Where does the coffee maker go? ha ha ha only joking. Yet another great video. Barry (ENG)
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. The location of the coffee maker Barry is a secret and I can not disclose that information here on the channel. Thanks for tuning in my friend. Always great to hear from you.
Hey Ken, this is really a useful jig to build. I get a kick out of your fussiness, but that equates to more safety and much better results. This jig would work great for cabinet doors or fancy boxes . I wonder , if made a bit bigger it could be used to build interior or exterior doors ?
Thanks for the kind words Bill. Being fussy in the shop is what I do best and I usually get a lot of ribbing about it. LOL. The jig could be made bigger and used for doors I would imagine but you would probably require some support for the stiles of the door as they would be longer and would risk tipping or pulling out of the jig. I'm sure that it would be possible though.
Nice build Kenny, I think when I build mine the plywood that the toggle clamps are mounted to will also be a surface that slides up tight to the stock to be routed. I like the sacrificial hold down and the dowel extenders if I have to do that I will epoxy neodymium magnets to the dowel this will hold the dowels up when the knobs are backed out and you replace the sacrificial board thus preventing the lose of the dowels. Now the piece of plastic over top of the sacrificial board what purpose does it serve? Why not wood? Perhaps I missed something. I can not justify spending $150.00 US on something I can build my self. Even if I have been drinking the Incra Koolaid, with my TS-LS joinery system the Incra master lift II and the clean sweep, oh I almost forgot the HD1000 miter gauge and the miter express. All great tools. I do not regret spending a penny on them. One issue with my setup is I do not have a miter slot on my router table, I will build an outrigger like the Woodpecker sled or The Infinity sled has. 😁🛫
The purpose of the UHMW plastic strip above the sacrificial board it to allow the threaded jig knobs to apply even pressure along the sacrificial board, without the bolts digging into the wood. It is just a much cleaner and much more efficient way to clamp the board in there. It distributes the pressure of the jig knobs across the whole sacrificial board and holds it much more securely than just with the jig knobs along. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Your sled is far superior to the Woodpeckers coping sled, which doesn't even have a miter bar nor a sacrificial piece on the fence! But it's only $140, so that explains those important shortcomings. That's not to say that I don't love the items I have from Woodpeckers; I just wanted to point out how much better your sled is. (Please promptly forward my fee for making this comment! Haha.)
I certainly going to use your idea, but I have a small question. Wouldn't it be better to make a small guide bar betweem the platform, with the clamps, and the master plate? This would help guide the plate always square to the stock. Also, why did you use the plastic on the side (front) of the guide? It seems to miss it's point of being screwed on so heavy. The stock is hold firm against the sacraficial peace and does not touch the plastic. Thanks again for sharing. Bless
Thanks for your comments Sigi. The clamp platform could indeed run on a guide bar. There is only one problem with that idea.....what if the piece that you are routing isn't square or is an odd shape? There is nothing wrong with installing a guide bar and it would work just fine but I also don't want to rely on the sliding clamp platform as a clamp. The hold downs serve the purpose of holding the stock and the sliding platform is strictly meant for adjustability. Nothing wrong with you idea though and it might be a nice addition to this jig. As for the plastic on the front face of the fence......I added it because I could. It serves no purpose other than to give the jig a nicer appearance and I had some on the rack and wanted to use it. That's all. Thanks for your great questions....I appreciate them.
thank you Kenny . great idea too. question please and i do understand on hand material . why not use hickory its seems harder than the maple so should last longer ? remember i know nothing at this point still just a learning stuff . thank you for all the info .
Good question Walter. The hardest factor between maple and hickory is minimal. While hickory is technically a harder species of stock, the amount of extra hardness that it provides would not give much more wear and tear longevity over the hard maple so using what is readily available and (in this case) less expensive is the better option here. Once you start questioning the minor differences of wood species for a project like this, it can open up a slippery slope of "what about exotics?" because there are quite a few exotic woods that are harder than maple as well. The important part is to use a wood species that won't break the bank but is hard enough to complete the task you wish to accomplish without problems. For this particular project, maple is a perfect choice that meets all the criteria and it looks great too. Thanks for the question and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Why secure your sacrificial fence in such a complex way? I have built and used a sled many times, and I find just the side fore from the workpiece means that it does not move. But then, I do not rely on the hold-downs to hold the workpiece square- a sliding side fence on that side does that. Why not use your sliding clamp mount to do that function? Way more secure...
The good thing about our hobby Mike, is that for every process, there is about 10 different ways to achieve the same result. The way that I demonstrate here on the show is not the only way and if there is a way that better suits you, I encourage you to use it. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestions. It's appreciated.
wow that is really nice. looks better then the ones you can buy. I think I will have to build my own. keep up the good work. look forward to more of your videos, really enjoy them..
Glad to hear that you enjoy the show Robbi. It takes a lot of time and effort to film, edit and post a show and hearing appreciative comments like yours makes it worth all the time spent. thank for tuning in.
Exactly,i wasn't saying it in a bad way, i enjoy when someone builds something useful and all these creators build off of it giving it rhere sramp. that way all of us can see the likes and dislikes in all and make a product that works instead of trial and error for a time and alot of wasted wood. alot of us dont have the money for experimenting, thats why i appreciate what you and other creators do. thanks
I couldn't agree with you more Chad. That's the good thing about woodworkers.....for the most part.....we are will to share our experience and eliminate some frustration from the newcomers.
Off the subject, a little but I bought an Infinity Lock Miter Jr. Router bit and I saw where they sell a router sled also. I looked at it online and had the bright idea that as I own a DELTA 34-184 UNIVERSAL TENONING JIG that I don't use all that much but decided I would take the clamp off and use it to hold my extra long pieces of wood to use it on my router table to push the wood through my router with the infinity lock miter bit. It works great so I can put the long clamp back on it and it will still be used for a tenoning jig.
Sounds like a very worthwhile "modification" Tom. Good for you for thinking outside of the box. Nicely done. Thanks for tuning in.
Another great project Ken. Can't have too many safety devices in a workshop, and I would sooner see something a touch over engineered than under engineered. I think jigs are the most underrated items in a workshop, they may take a little time to build, but for repeatable work, they are a godsend. Looking forward to your next project.
Thanks Brian. I totally agree with you on the jig issue. Definitely something that not many people pay attention to but they should. Thanks for tuning in again this week my friend. Great to hear from you.
Well thought out project Ken!! That would be a very useful jig in my shop. Thanks for sharing!!
You're very welcome Dale and if you get around to making one and have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in.
Brilliant. Thanks again for another great and well-explained project.
How did I miss this comment? Sorry Barb. Thanks for tuning in to the program.
Great job. It’s a perfect jig. Thanks por your time.
Thank you very much Luis for the kind words on the jig. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I appreciate it.
Great Job. If it's worth doing... it's worth doing it right.
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I truly appreciate them. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Ken, part two was a great finish to the sled. I know you got lots of use from it in that up coming project of yours. I hope to build one someday. Nice job. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
Thanks Paul. Glad that you enjoyed it. Always great to hear from you here on the show and other places on the web. Looking forward to seeing the next show that you produce.
Nicely done as usual!
Thank you Neil, I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
So simple explanation very clean many thanks i will make one tommorow.
Glad that you enjoyed the project. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Lol. I like your problem solving approach to the coping sled design. Much simpler than the woodpeckers coping sled. I’m going to try prototyping a design along the lines of your design. When I was evaluating the woodpeckers coping sled, the sliding hold down plate serves 2 purposes, rather than the woodpeckers design which requires two different clamps, and your design is more flexible.
I'm not really aware of the woodpecker design. We don't have Woodpecker products in my area that I have ever seen. Either way, thanks for tuning in and good luck on your design.
Great two parter Kenny. When you mentioned 'why over the top, and it's your show' you are right!! do what you do best and that's showing the best out of woodworking, and the fun/safety things that you can make, and if that means over the top, then so be it. I have just one important question though, Where does the coffee maker go? ha ha ha only joking.
Yet another great video.
Barry (ENG)
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. The location of the coffee maker Barry is a secret and I can not disclose that information here on the channel. Thanks for tuning in my friend. Always great to hear from you.
Love the handle! 😊
Thanks Barbara. I can't take the credit for the design though. LOL. Thanks for tuning in this week.
Hey Ken, this is really a useful jig to build. I get a kick out of your fussiness, but that equates to more safety and much better results. This jig would work great for cabinet doors or fancy boxes . I wonder , if made a bit bigger it could be used to build interior or exterior doors ?
Thanks for the kind words Bill. Being fussy in the shop is what I do best and I usually get a lot of ribbing about it. LOL. The jig could be made bigger and used for doors I would imagine but you would probably require some support for the stiles of the door as they would be longer and would risk tipping or pulling out of the jig. I'm sure that it would be possible though.
Nice build Kenny, I think when I build mine the plywood that the toggle clamps are mounted to will also be a surface that slides up tight to the stock to be routed. I like the sacrificial hold down and the dowel extenders if I have to do that I will epoxy neodymium magnets to the dowel this will hold the dowels up when the knobs are backed out and you replace the sacrificial board thus preventing the lose of the dowels. Now the piece of plastic over top of the sacrificial board what purpose does it serve? Why not wood? Perhaps I missed something.
I can not justify spending $150.00 US on something I can build my self. Even if I have been drinking the Incra Koolaid, with my TS-LS joinery system the Incra master lift II and the clean sweep, oh I almost forgot the HD1000 miter gauge and the miter express. All great tools.
I do not regret spending a penny on them. One issue with my setup is I do not have a miter slot on my router table, I will build an outrigger like the Woodpecker sled or The Infinity sled has. 😁🛫
The purpose of the UHMW plastic strip above the sacrificial board it to allow the threaded jig knobs to apply even pressure along the sacrificial board, without the bolts digging into the wood. It is just a much cleaner and much more efficient way to clamp the board in there. It distributes the pressure of the jig knobs across the whole sacrificial board and holds it much more securely than just with the jig knobs along. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Your sled is far superior to the Woodpeckers coping sled, which doesn't even have a miter bar nor a sacrificial piece on the fence! But it's only $140, so that explains those important shortcomings. That's not to say that I don't love the items I have from Woodpeckers; I just wanted to point out how much better your sled is.
(Please promptly forward my fee for making this comment! Haha.)
I certainly going to use your idea, but I have a small question.
Wouldn't it be better to make a small guide bar betweem the platform, with the clamps, and the master plate? This would help guide the plate always square to the stock.
Also, why did you use the plastic on the side (front) of the guide? It seems to miss it's point of being screwed on so heavy. The stock is hold firm against the sacraficial peace and does not touch the plastic.
Thanks again for sharing.
Bless
Thanks for your comments Sigi. The clamp platform could indeed run on a guide bar. There is only one problem with that idea.....what if the piece that you are routing isn't square or is an odd shape? There is nothing wrong with installing a guide bar and it would work just fine but I also don't want to rely on the sliding clamp platform as a clamp. The hold downs serve the purpose of holding the stock and the sliding platform is strictly meant for adjustability. Nothing wrong with you idea though and it might be a nice addition to this jig. As for the plastic on the front face of the fence......I added it because I could. It serves no purpose other than to give the jig a nicer appearance and I had some on the rack and wanted to use it. That's all. Thanks for your great questions....I appreciate them.
thank you Kenny . great idea too. question please and i do understand on hand material . why not use hickory its seems harder than the maple so should last longer ? remember i know nothing at this point still just a learning stuff . thank you for all the info .
Good question Walter. The hardest factor between maple and hickory is minimal. While hickory is technically a harder species of stock, the amount of extra hardness that it provides would not give much more wear and tear longevity over the hard maple so using what is readily available and (in this case) less expensive is the better option here. Once you start questioning the minor differences of wood species for a project like this, it can open up a slippery slope of "what about exotics?" because there are quite a few exotic woods that are harder than maple as well. The important part is to use a wood species that won't break the bank but is hard enough to complete the task you wish to accomplish without problems. For this particular project, maple is a perfect choice that meets all the criteria and it looks great too. Thanks for the question and thanks for tuning in to the show.
thank you
You're welcome Walter.
Very nice, what you want to bet someone will be building one of these on the tube for the table saw. just saying it happens alot.
And if they do, that's great. As long as the show inspired someone to do something with wood then I'm okay with that. Thanks for tuning in Chad.
Why secure your sacrificial fence in such a complex way? I have built and used a sled many times, and I find just the side fore from the workpiece means that it does not move. But then, I do not rely on the hold-downs to hold the workpiece square- a sliding side fence on that side does that. Why not use your sliding clamp mount to do that function? Way more secure...
The good thing about our hobby Mike, is that for every process, there is about 10 different ways to achieve the same result. The way that I demonstrate here on the show is not the only way and if there is a way that better suits you, I encourage you to use it. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestions. It's appreciated.