Installing An RV Lithium BIM Precision Circuits LI-BIM 225 - Battery Isolation Manager - RV Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 4 май 2023
- As part of my affordable RV Lithium Battery (LiFePO4) upgrade I replace and install a new Lithium compatible battery isolation manager (BIM) from Precision Circuits called the LI-BIM 225. This is the fifth video of five. Links below.
You can read more about upgrading the RV BIM for Lithium Batteries on my blog at:
www.rvhabit.com/post/installi...
(Affiliate) Links:
• See Precision Circuits LI-BIM 225 on Amazon: amzn.to/44x4hjW
• See Windy Nation 9-inch Battery cables on Amazon: amzn.to/3HHTiue
• See Unowix Defender X100 LiFePO4 on Amazon: amzn.to/3Q1qpLS
• See AiLi Battery Monitor on Amazon: amzn.to/3By4GXr
• See Qwork Battery Monitor on Amazon: amzn.to/3zQFppT
• See RV Converter Chargers on Amazon: amzn.to/3BC9B9y
• See RV Lithium Batteries on Amazon: amzn.to/3bwU7ZQ
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Additional videos:
Affordable RV Lithium Battery Upgrade: • Affordable RV Lithium ...
Installing AiLi Battery Meter: • Installing A Full Func...
Installing Lithium Converter Charger: • Upgrading/Replacing Th...
Installing Unowix Lithium Batteries: • Installing Lithium Bat...
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Хобби
Nice work! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Lou, I really appreciate it because I have the same setup in my Forester. I’m getting to change out my old lead acid batteries to Lithium-ion batteries.
I struggled to get that in the spot. For certain you need to use the metal clips that are attached to the RV wall that are attached to the Trobetta switch. 9-inch cables seemed to be just right. It's doable but you need to take your time. As you see in the video the wiring is very straightforward. Good luck and let me know how you make out. I have the PDF files of the wiring and specs on my website if you need them.
Thank you
Always appreciate your support.
Thanks for the Info - I've been doing researching on the Lithium Battery changeover and I keep finding more and more changes that I needed to make from the Converter/charger (which won't charge Lithium batteries to its requirement of 14.6) to this (BIM) and I have no clue where it is on my 2019 Jayco Redhawk SE 22C model- My batteries are located under the stairs which I need to modify also to able to fit the Lithium batteries I want....Far as batteries go they are a LOT of make , models and sizes to choose from Battleborn (too expensive ) to Chins which I find are more affordable..Still doing research but I have plenty of time to make my decisions....PS - forgot to add a 'SHUNT' ...I'll be checking out your website for more info..😁 Thanks again
I have a video on adding a shunt for the install of the AiLi Battery Meter. As for the BIM it is typically very close to the battery compartment. You correct about no shortage of lithium batteries to choose from. Do your research and purchase what you are comfortable with. I am sure most of them ut there will serve you well. Good luck.
Thanks..I'll check it out..@@RVHabit
LiFePO4 will charge to 100% at 13.8v, which would be fine for them and the chassis battery. Maybe a configuration like this could have used the original BIM, saving ~$150 on the Li-specific BIM and 2 hours of hard work. :-)
What's the rating of the alternator and what kind of charging current do you observe going through the Li-BIM? People think LFP is a black hole of current, but in my digging it seems like when the NEG return ("ground") goes through the chassis there is enough resistance to limit LFP accepatance to 0.33C, or ~66A for 200Ah. Will be intersting to see what numbers you are seeing.
You can get red or black shrink tube. Let’s you color code a cable end no matter what color you have on hand.
Great idea.
One thing I’ve noticed after installing the new BIM and lithium batteries that I need to keep the rv plugged in shore power because the Coach battery will continue to draw down from the house batteries to when the rv is parked. I’m thinking that is because of the higher voltage from the house batteries keeping the lower Coach battery charged.
I generally always have my RV plugged in so I have not noticed that. Thanks for the heads up.
Nice vid. I wish this device had some built-in alternator temperature compensation circuit to throttle down/disconnect in case of ALT overheating. Curious how they arrived at the 15 min on and 20 min off scenario described in their user's manual. I've read that the LFP banks will sponge up a huge amount of current and not knowing the ALT case/winding temp is concerning for DIY enthusiasts. Thoughts?
Yes lithium batteries will take a lot of power to recharge. I will assume somebody tested what a typical alternator can handle for 15 minutes. However if you want you can always go with a DC to DC charger that will regulate the amount of power that is sent to from the alternator to the lithium batteries.
Thanks Lou! Great videos - really appreciate you. Question - I have a very similar setup to yours in my Dynamax Isata 3 motor home. Upgrading from AGM to Lithium and my BIM looks identical to yours. I ordered the same replacement LI-BIM you’re installing in the video. BUT - after seeing your struggle with making this thing fit, was wondering if a product like Renogy’s DC-DC charger (which also acts as an isolator) may be another option? And maybe I’m just trading one challenge (small space in the battery control box) for another (routing cables from the DC-DC charger where they need to go)?
Hi, DC to DC is certainly an option to consider. Time wise I think install will also take time. I chose to go with the LI-BIM so I could keep the functionality of the emergency start button and overall it is less wiring. Either way though is the way to go if your upgrading to lithium. Yes, I struggled a bit but I was also in 95 degree Florida heat. I wouldn't have minded it as much if It was a bit cooler. Good luck on whatever you decide.
@@RVHabitfollow on question - did you need to drill holes in the box to mount the Li-BIM? Or were you able to re-use any of the existing bolts? My box appears the same as yours, but I think I’ll have to drill some holes to mount it. 2 of the 3 shouldn’t be a problem but one location is awfully close to an LP hose. Just curious. Got everything out pretty well. Now just need to mount and connect. Also - would you still do 1/0 9” cables? Or is it possible to go thinner? I don’t know the calculations for figuring out cable types. Thanks!
Hi, I used some short self-tapping screws, no predrilling is required. They went in very easily and are holding rock solid.
I'm replacing my marine out on my travel trailer and don't know which wire is my ground or power I have a white black and a bare wire any ideas
John you will need to check that with a multimeter.
Thanks for the video. I’m planning to do this on my 2001 class B coach, but was curious if signal wire is needed if you don’t have an emergency start. I don’t think I have that feature or at least I don’t know how I’d even use it if I did. :) thanks, again.
Signal wire is not required if the RV does not have an emergency start or bypass.
@@RVHabit Thank you for the reply. Install looks Iike a relatively easy swap with my old BIM.
Have you been happy with your LI-BIM225 so far?
Has worked fine since install. It works in the background so out of sight out of mind but no issues that I have noticed.
I have a question. I have a 2009 winnebago chalet and the selonoids are placed in a different part than yours. They are also not as nicely labeled as yours. I am having a hard time finding the cable that will be attached to the sig, which I am assuming is the cable for the battery boost in the front. would you happen to know where I can get that informaition. I tried looking up the wiring diagrams but I don't see this type of wire going all the way back to the solenoids. thanks in advance I'll take any information you can provide.
I am not familiar with Winnebago wiring but I believe they may use a separate solenoid for the battery boost function that does not involve the BIM. I would either call Winnebago or check on a Winnebago forum. Good luck.
Thank you
Question! Why you doing that?!
Hi Jim, because I upgraded to lithium batteries and in order to properly maintain the chassis battery and not overwork the alternator when driving, you need a lithium capable BIM.