For those who use a torque wrench make sure you use the proper one. Your 1/2" torque wrench thats been in the bottom of your tool box will break and crack more cases than it will properly tighten. Case halfs and and other small bolts or cap screws only have a 7-8lb rating. Get yourself a 1/4" torque wrench that is scaled 20-180inlbs. Inch pound will be very accurate, the conversion is the amount of ftlbs × 12=inch lbs. A 3/8" wrench in either inlbs or ftlbs is great for the head and cyl. 1/2"for high torque values of 50ftlbs or up. Another great video as usual, keep them comming. Edit: on the flywheel the first line is your ignition timing if memory serves me right.
Thats a very good point. Appreciate you sharing this. And I think your right, I think the first line is for ignition. When Honda uses two lines on the crank gear side they have the room to put a I for ignition and a T for top dead center.
What I did for the oil pump is used assembly lube to hold the rotors in (it’s pretty tacky) put the cases together and then you can spin the shaft till they all line up and the shaft falls into place. Also if you replace the wudruff key Honda puts two little dimples on the side that makes it comically hard to install, you have to initially tap it in and once it’s in line with the flywheel it pushes it in the rest of the way when you torque it. My bike took me forever to figure out why it had hard starting after rebuilding it like you did, my ect sensor burned up. Good job man, I couldn’t have done it any better.
Thanks! I didnt think about doing the pump like you mentioned but that does sound like it works well. Bummer on the ECT sensor, when them go out they are hard to start for sure.
Good. Changing tires on a banshee, while also working on my f150, cleaning and greasing the belt pulley bearings. 332k miles and they are still original! Crazy
I didnt know they mentioned not to do it that way in the manual. In the old days when the circlips where very weak we would put the open end on the very top or bottom. But these days they are very robust like you mentioned. probably doesnt matter these days as long as its all the way in its seat.
Yes. I havent had another one come through that needed bottom end work since this one (so I could trend this) but I can say this one has been doing good.
Not sure if it's applicable here but when tapping stuff inside the motor couldn't you use a brass bar to make sure you don't bend or dent any of the case metal? Im very new to all this so I'm not sure if that would work like hammering out a axle or anything similar
At 1:06:56 do you know what the torque settings are for those 6 torx bolts that go throu the flywheel? Thank you? Mine are all completely loose and one of them backed out and chewed into my stator. Thanks for your great videos.
I checked my manuals and cant seem the find the torque specs for these. I would be ok using thread locker and tightening by hand. Nice and tight but not too tight.
Hey man there is a line on the furthest outside primary drive gear nut ( to align with something) it doesn’t align with the two dots it’s one tooth off from that line. But as you know the gear only slides on one way due to the cut on the shaft that matches the splines on the gear? I’ve read the book and all it talks about is the two dots so am I just overthinking the line ?
@@sethmacgillivary1281 the combustion temps... I'm sure it does, it surely has higher combustion chamber temps then a 250. One of the reasons they run a colder plug in 125s
9:22 A0000 . VA O) ll .ill 88% Me 8:25 PM, Nov 21 SE/CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION/BALANCER ASSEMBLY Apply engine oil to the right scavenge pump inner rotor and right scavenge pump outer rotor sliding area. Install the right scavenge pump inner rotor [1] and right [2] scavenge pump outer rotor [2]. NOTE: Install the outer rotor with the punch mark side facing up. Instali the inner rotor with the punch mark side facing down. Apply engine oil to the center scavenge pump inner rotor and center scavenge pump outer rotor sliding area. [1] Install he center scavenge pump inner rotor [3] and center scavenge pump outer rotor [4]. Install the dowel pins [1), and new gasket [2). 18 - '19 models shown: Apply engine oil to the left scavenge pump inner rotor and left scavenge pump outer rotor sliding area (] Install the left scavenge pump inner rotor [3] and left scavenge pump outer rotor [4]. NOTE: Install the outer rotor with the punch mark side facing down. Install the inner rotor with the punch mark side facing up [4] 1341 Install the left crankcase [1] on the right crankcase [2] NOTE: Be careful not to damage the left crankcase and left scavenge pump outer rotor. Be sure that the piston jet [3] does not interfere with the connecting rod [4]. (1) [3] P [4] Install the following crankcase bolts (left side): 6 x 28 mm bolt [1] 6 x 45 mm bolts [2] 6 x 50 mm bolt [3) 6 x65 mm bolt [4) 6 x 75 mm bolt [5 Tighten the crankcase bolts (left side) in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps securely. '18-`19 models shown [4] (5] G] [3] 2 Save Share E
Thanks for sharing. I read it and see where it says the dot arrangements. This was a motor never taken apart before so I'm not sure whats going on. What I plan to do is check out the arrangement of the pump gears on the next one that comes through my shop that also has never had the bottom end apart. Try to trend this to figure it out.
I don't really know. Back when honda crf had the motor oil separated from the trans oil it had only one set of them pump gears. Now its all one oil and the pump is pretty large. Dry sump motors use a pump to suck the sump dry and a pump to send the oil to where it needs to go. Then some motors use a pump to dry out the area around the crank, and another pump to send the oil where it needs to go. I have also seen wet sump with just one big pump.
Because the oil comes in from the center oil pump with no dots and pushes oil to the right one and left one equally and then the right one will pump it through one section of the motor if dots are lined up correctly and the left will pump it up the other section of the motor (head) ,again if dots are lined up correctly . If not it will try pushing oil back to the center pump and cause low or no oil pressure
@@phildesimone595 if you watch the part 1 tear down the pump gears came out faced that way. This bottom end was never opened up till I did. So if they where in there wrong it came from honda that way. I don't have a manual for that bike on hand but would love to see what your looking at. You can email it to me at upallnight91@hotmail.com Thanks brother!
50:11 What is the torque for this nut for 2022 crf 250r? Anyone know? Also is the 2022 crf 250r the same as a 2018 specs and torques? Any accurate information would be appreciated.
You put the oil pump in wrong! The dots do not go the same way as directional rotors. Far right outer goes up and inner down, centers have no dots so can go anyway and the left dots go opposite way. Motor will have low oil pressure with dots all face down !
For those who use a torque wrench make sure you use the proper one. Your 1/2" torque wrench thats been in the bottom of your tool box will break and crack more cases than it will properly tighten.
Case halfs and and other small bolts or cap screws only have a 7-8lb rating. Get yourself a 1/4" torque wrench that is scaled 20-180inlbs. Inch pound will be very accurate, the conversion is the amount of ftlbs × 12=inch lbs.
A 3/8" wrench in either inlbs or ftlbs is great for the head and cyl.
1/2"for high torque values of 50ftlbs or up.
Another great video as usual, keep them comming.
Edit: on the flywheel the first line is your ignition timing if memory serves me right.
Thats a very good point. Appreciate you sharing this. And I think your right, I think the first line is for ignition. When Honda uses two lines on the crank gear side they have the room to put a I for ignition and a T for top dead center.
What I did for the oil pump is used assembly lube to hold the rotors in (it’s pretty tacky) put the cases together and then you can spin the shaft till they all line up and the shaft falls into place. Also if you replace the wudruff key Honda puts two little dimples on the side that makes it comically hard to install, you have to initially tap it in and once it’s in line with the flywheel it pushes it in the rest of the way when you torque it. My bike took me forever to figure out why it had hard starting after rebuilding it like you did, my ect sensor burned up. Good job man, I couldn’t have done it any better.
Thanks! I didnt think about doing the pump like you mentioned but that does sound like it works well. Bummer on the ECT sensor, when them go out they are hard to start for sure.
love your videos, greetings from Germany
Thanks brother! So cool that these videos make it all the way to Germany! Thanks for reaching out
Love the videos man. Keep it up 👍
Thanks man! I sure plan on it!
Class was definitely in session on this episode.
My Professor be up all night somewhere in Florida
Haha! Whats happening Bunny Man!
@UpAllNight91 I'm sideways on the couch watching you teach me bout dirt bikes .
I'm a head to the casino later.
How you living?
Good. Changing tires on a banshee, while also working on my f150, cleaning and greasing the belt pulley bearings. 332k miles and they are still original! Crazy
Where you now? Vagas lol
@UpAllNight91 Biloxi Mississippi
I did Vegas last year, I had to move on 😂😂
Another great video!!!
Thanks man!
Good vid. Now I see what I'm going to be getting to 04 crf 250 it has that clicking sound when you kick it over but has the manual compression release
Oh yeah cheers from ATL
Hello. Are you sure thats a manual compression release? It thought the 2004 had a auto decompression with only a hot start lever on the bars
I thought your supposed to not have the opening of the circlip even with the hole. I guess it don't matter. Makes sense to have it like you do.
Yeah, the Honda manual explicitly says not to do that for some reason. But the circlips are so strong these days I'm sure it's fine.
I didnt know they mentioned not to do it that way in the manual. In the old days when the circlips where very weak we would put the open end on the very top or bottom. But these days they are very robust like you mentioned. probably doesnt matter these days as long as its all the way in its seat.
Interested to know the outcome of the oil pump? Did honda assemble it incorrectly? Thanks again for posting all of this valuable content.
Yes. I havent had another one come through that needed bottom end work since this one (so I could trend this) but I can say this one has been doing good.
Not sure if it's applicable here but when tapping stuff inside the motor couldn't you use a brass bar to make sure you don't bend or dent any of the case metal? Im very new to all this so I'm not sure if that would work like hammering out a axle or anything similar
I'm sure you can. You do have me wondering how it feels and works. I may pick one up and give it a shot.
At 1:06:56 do you know what the torque settings are for those 6 torx bolts that go throu the flywheel? Thank you? Mine are all completely loose and one of them backed out and chewed into my stator. Thanks for your great videos.
I checked my manuals and cant seem the find the torque specs for these. I would be ok using thread locker and tightening by hand. Nice and tight but not too tight.
That little key is called a wood.
Drift key.
Right on!
I just put new bearings and put the new crank in, but the crank is not holding to the crank bearing...what do you recommend?
Hello. What do you mean its not holding? Its not a tight fit?
Hey man there is a line on the furthest outside primary drive gear nut ( to align with something) it doesn’t align with the two dots it’s one tooth off from that line. But as you know the gear only slides on one way due to the cut on the shaft that matches the splines on the gear? I’ve read the book and all it talks about is the two dots so am I just overthinking the line ?
Hmm, cant remember what line this is, can you email me a picture of it at upallnight91@hotmail.com
DID you use the stock rod or aftermarket ? same with main bearings ?
If I remember correctly that one was a OEM crank with OEM bearings and a wiseco piston.
Great video, do you know the correct torque for the flywheel nut?. No dealer here in the caribbean, sevice manual on order, thanks for your help.
I think its 47 foot pounds
Hey so I wanna start running klotz r50 in my stock yz 125 it has a flash point of 550f will a yz 125 burn that?
klotz r50 is a great oil that is designed for our high end race bikes, it will work very well in your YZ125
@@UpAllNight91 does a yz 125 hit 550 degrees ferenheight?
@@sethmacgillivary1281 the combustion temps... I'm sure it does, it surely has higher combustion chamber temps then a 250. One of the reasons they run a colder plug in 125s
@@UpAllNight91 oh ok what’s the flashpoint of the stuff u use?
@@UpAllNight91 online it says it says engine temp is arround 300 degrees and the flash point is 550 on the oil so will it not burn?
9:22
A0000
.
VA O) ll .ill 88%
Me
8:25 PM, Nov 21
SE/CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION/BALANCER
ASSEMBLY
Apply engine oil to the right scavenge pump inner rotor
and right scavenge pump outer rotor sliding area.
Install the right scavenge pump inner rotor [1] and right [2]
scavenge pump outer rotor [2].
NOTE:
Install the outer rotor with the punch mark side
facing up.
Instali the inner rotor with the punch mark side
facing down.
Apply engine oil to the center scavenge pump inner
rotor and center scavenge pump outer rotor sliding
area.
[1]
Install he center scavenge pump inner rotor [3] and
center scavenge pump outer rotor [4].
Install the dowel pins [1), and new gasket [2).
18 - '19 models shown:
Apply engine oil to the left scavenge pump inner rotor
and left scavenge pump outer rotor sliding area
(]
Install the left scavenge pump inner rotor [3] and left
scavenge pump outer rotor [4].
NOTE:
Install the outer rotor with the punch mark side
facing down.
Install the inner rotor with the punch mark side
facing up
[4]
1341
Install the left crankcase [1] on the right crankcase [2]
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the left crankcase and left
scavenge pump outer rotor.
Be sure that the piston jet [3] does not interfere with
the connecting rod [4].
(1)
[3]
P
[4]
Install the following crankcase bolts (left side):
6 x 28 mm bolt [1]
6 x 45 mm bolts [2]
6 x 50 mm bolt [3)
6 x65 mm bolt [4)
6 x 75 mm bolt [5
Tighten the crankcase bolts (left side) in a crisscross
pattern in two or three steps securely.
'18-`19 models shown
[4]
(5]
G]
[3]
2
Save
Share
E
Thanks for sharing. I read it and see where it says the dot arrangements. This was a motor never taken apart before so I'm not sure whats going on. What I plan to do is check out the arrangement of the pump gears on the next one that comes through my shop that also has never had the bottom end apart. Try to trend this to figure it out.
Why does Honda use so many oil pumps? I’m curious
I don't really know. Back when honda crf had the motor oil separated from the trans oil it had only one set of them pump gears. Now its all one oil and the pump is pretty large. Dry sump motors use a pump to suck the sump dry and a pump to send the oil to where it needs to go. Then some motors use a pump to dry out the area around the crank, and another pump to send the oil where it needs to go. I have also seen wet sump with just one big pump.
Thank you so much. You are very thorough with your videos and it really helps us guys👍
@@GregDunn-p9k oh thanks man! I'm glad to hear that. Appreciate it!
Because the oil comes in from the center oil pump with no dots and pushes oil to the right one and left one equally and then the right one will pump it through one section of the motor if dots are lined up correctly and the left will pump it up the other section of the motor (head) ,again if dots are lined up correctly . If not it will try pushing oil back to the center pump and cause low or no oil pressure
@@phildesimone595 if you watch the part 1 tear down the pump gears came out faced that way. This bottom end was never opened up till I did. So if they where in there wrong it came from honda that way. I don't have a manual for that bike on hand but would love to see what your looking at. You can email it to me at upallnight91@hotmail.com Thanks brother!
50:11 What is the torque for this nut for 2022 crf 250r?
Anyone know?
Also is the 2022 crf 250r the same as a 2018 specs and torques?
Any accurate information would be appreciated.
If i remember correctly its about 110 foot pounds. They use to be 80 but for this newer model they bumped that up
You put the oil pump in wrong! The dots do not go the same way as directional rotors. Far right outer goes up and inner down, centers have no dots so can go anyway and the left dots go opposite way. Motor will have low oil pressure with dots all face down !
Hello. The bottom end of this motor was never taken apart so I only put the new ones in the way I found the original ones
@UpAllNight91 the oil pump will seize up that way! Read the service manual . I would send the service manual page, but cant send picture here
Love this shit