The discussion of the tools is excellent. My dad died at 98 nearly a decade ago, and had several buckets of tools which were handed down to him by tradesman from over a century ago. When using them it's like working in a different world compared to what is made now.
Great video as always, keep them coming. On pointing, how well do you find a hot mix mortar without pozzolan carbonates by the base of a wall where moisture is highest? Do you typically include a small amount of pozzolan to help it in such circumstances?
Great video, I'm doing the rounds now, watching every thing you've uploaded pretty much 😂. How thick would you/should you go on a base coat as a general rule of thumb, are there any limitations here, becuase when I've hacked in the past, especially in rooms which needed to be plumb/flat, the basecoat can be up to 25-30mm in places, is this advisable or does it then become a three coat system? (Quite often found with graded crushed stone, sharp stone, and hair too.) Thank you.
Depends on the lime. QL will hold its own weight much better than all other limes. But to get 30mm you're probably including a dubbing out coat as well. I'm happy with 10 to 12mm for a scratch coat on stone but you could go about 8mm on brick.
@@gilvaughan-m8r Sounds like what you're saying is that you want to add a whole gauge of quicklime to an NHL mix. Or vice verse, one gauge of NHL to a gauge of quicklime. If so, why would you want to do this?
I’ve had a problem with a purely quick motor cracking and in other times it was too wet and I’ve got quick climb left over from previous jobs so I was wondering if I could use it
How long after and what type of paint to use after to still allow it to breathe? I have a chimney that’s got wet this year after 10 years of being ok, I believe it’s condensation but not sure why all of a sudden, it’s dot n dab at the base and these are the damp parts only, any tips please?
@@michaeljamesdesignyes pva, I did it, 18m ago we had extension round the back of house, tanking used everywhere as walls are into hillside, dpm and all modern, now noticed this in chimney, but suspected rising damp coming from flow of water (dpm against clay soil) I don’t believe it is as other side of chimney is garage which is 2’ lower and the wall is dry below dpc. It’s been 3 weeks since I noticed it, we run dehumidifier usually from now to march, I was getting 20l/day out, settled after 2 weeks, just fitted PIV in loft and dehumidifier now not even kicking in, I believe drying washing was the cause earlier on in year and not having much heating on due to gas prices, we use to run log burner each day evenings, I believe super heating the cooling and washing maybe allowed damp to penetrate and condensate, but it’s not really drying out, I hacked 3” from bottom to see dpm as like a fool back then I dabbed to flow lvl, dpm 1 brick higher than concrete floor. Old cottage style, 1924 old school breeze blocks and reconstituted concrete blocks outside (looks like stone). Not sure if it’s going to dry but one side looks to have lightened up so maybe saturated
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The discussion of the tools is excellent. My dad died at 98 nearly a decade ago, and had several buckets of tools which were handed down to him by tradesman from over a century ago. When using them it's like working in a different world compared to what is made now.
I really appreciate your videos. Been watching for quite some time now. Thank you!
Thanks Graham, much appreciated.
First impressions. I can't get I want my M TV by dire straits out of my head. I'll keep watching. 😃👍
Just don't. Just don't go there Steve.
@@michaeljamesdesign 🤣. If it works it works👍
what a cliffhanger😬. I'd love to see that limewash vid. Thanks for all the detailed information
@@edzardw6450 I did one but the lime was old and took ages to slake solidified. But I’ve got some newer stuff so it won’t be too long.
Wax on - Wax off! 😂👍 you are the master
Thanks for the video. Very informative!
Have you ever considered using ground cork or perlite in the base coat to improve insulation?
Yes.
Great video as always, keep them coming.
On pointing, how well do you find a hot mix mortar without pozzolan carbonates by the base of a wall where moisture is highest? Do you typically include a small amount of pozzolan to help it in such circumstances?
I do
Great video, I'm doing the rounds now, watching every thing you've uploaded pretty much 😂. How thick would you/should you go on a base coat as a general rule of thumb, are there any limitations here, becuase when I've hacked in the past, especially in rooms which needed to be plumb/flat, the basecoat can be up to 25-30mm in places, is this advisable or does it then become a three coat system? (Quite often found with graded crushed stone, sharp stone, and hair too.) Thank you.
Depends on the lime. QL will hold its own weight much better than all other limes. But to get 30mm you're probably including a dubbing out coat as well. I'm happy with 10 to 12mm for a scratch coat on stone but you could go about 8mm on brick.
Can you add quick Lime instead of Lime hydrate to an NHL mix?
Not too sure I understand what you mean. Explain your intention on more detail.
Use 1/1/3 quick lime( calbux 90)to Saint astier 3.5 to sand
Use 1/1/3 quick lime( calbux 90)to Saint astier 3.5 to sand would the be a good bedding mortar
@@gilvaughan-m8r Sounds like what you're saying is that you want to add a whole gauge of quicklime to an NHL mix. Or vice verse, one gauge of NHL to a gauge of quicklime. If so, why would you want to do this?
I’ve had a problem with a purely quick motor cracking and in other times it was too wet and I’ve got quick climb left over from previous jobs so I was wondering if I could use it
How long after and what type of paint to use after to still allow it to breathe? I have a chimney that’s got wet this year after 10 years of being ok, I believe it’s condensation but not sure why all of a sudden, it’s dot n dab at the base and these are the damp parts only, any tips please?
Pigmented lime wash on bare plaster. For dot and dab to work, the substrate has to be sealed with PVA. This causes problems.
@@michaeljamesdesignyes pva, I did it, 18m ago we had extension round the back of house, tanking used everywhere as walls are into hillside, dpm and all modern, now noticed this in chimney, but suspected rising damp coming from flow of water (dpm against clay soil) I don’t believe it is as other side of chimney is garage which is 2’ lower and the wall is dry below dpc. It’s been 3 weeks since I noticed it, we run dehumidifier usually from now to march, I was getting 20l/day out, settled after 2 weeks, just fitted PIV in loft and dehumidifier now not even kicking in, I believe drying washing was the cause earlier on in year and not having much heating on due to gas prices, we use to run log burner each day evenings, I believe super heating the cooling and washing maybe allowed damp to penetrate and condensate, but it’s not really drying out, I hacked 3” from bottom to see dpm as like a fool back then I dabbed to flow lvl, dpm 1 brick higher than concrete floor. Old cottage style, 1924 old school breeze blocks and reconstituted concrete blocks outside (looks like stone).
Not sure if it’s going to dry but one side looks to have lightened up so maybe saturated
Hi Michael,
The only question I have is what thickness of base, float and skim do you use?
10mm base and float coat, 4mm plaster. But it can vary.