Thanks for being real in your video…we all make mistakes. Putting yourself out there to help others learn is not a bad way to make a video! Keep it up!
The jacks on the back of the trailer stop the trailer from picking up the back wheels of the tow vehicle when loading. This would be a bad idea as the front wheels do not have e-brake on towing vehicle. Also do the tab welded on the trailer to secure the finder harm your tires. Really like your design on the hinge. Great Job.
I need to add rear jacks to my trailer I loaded my 2010 gmc sierra on my trailer hooked up to my lighter 2019 F150 and it just just about lifted the wheels of the F150 up. Loading the F150 onto the trailer doesn't lift the sierra up
KISS. Use a block or two of 6x6 cutoffs. That way you can just pull forward off the blocks without having to get out a Jack to take the pressure off the pins to lift up these supports.
Oh yeah, that does bring back memories (maybe not fun memories though). The other similar predicament is getting out of a car inside a closed trailer. The bystanders seem to be more amused by it than I am... maybe I need to find more sympathetic bystanders! 🤣
your right i wish i would have never sold my trailer it had a frame like a railroad track ,, it was factory but i had to crawl out also,, wish i never sold it
I would not let the fenders rest against the tires when you have them folded out while you're loading because as you're driving on your Bronco that trailer is going to rock back and forth and the tires are going to rock back and forth and it could cut the side walls of the tire on the edge of the sharp metal fender
I love your tilting fender solution. I was thinking of making my fender lift off, so that I could open my car door enough to crawl in, instead of going thru the window. Kudos to you for leaving in your mistakes. Not only were they entertaining, but you saved a few people from doing the same things. I call it entertaining instruction. As for the rear jacks, just watch a few RUclips videos of people loading their vehicles, only to have their truck and trailer roll down a hill. My trailer doesn't have them, so I will add them.
I could not believe what I was seeing, bad place to be using a demolition saw with a long blade, so off to the tire store he will go! But anyway you should go the The Home Depot and check out the new TIP-OUT SYSTEM on the trailers they sell, it is simple and I'm sure you will like it, mater of fact, with the trailer there you can tip out the entire sides.
Those are for loading heaver stuff on a lighter truck than what you have so when the load hits dovetail it doesnt lift the rear of the truck and the whole thing starts rolling on u i would change those out with a tiltable screw jack that pins on and can be removed when needed to
That's pretty much what I was thinking. Just wondered why they seem to be twice as tall as they need to be. I like the screw jack idea. Thanks for the comment.
@@Fabrication101 no problem bulldog makes a jack that pins in place and you can remove it to load your bronco alot of trailer builders put those as a liability eliminator
@@Fabrication101 like others have said, they make jacke that swivel up out of the way or get fully removed but yes, they are to support the rear of the trailer when you load heavy things as it is hooked to the truck. You ever see the videos where people load a heavy tractor and half way on the trailer it raises the rear truck tires off the ground and the truck and trailer start rolling away !!! Well,these prevent this from happening.
this may not help in your case but the make spacers for jeeper & that would be just enough wider that u r not hving to drive on/over the tires. The other may not apply but some1 else may help is if they make the trailers w/the tire built into^ the trailer on 1side & out side the trailer on the other side. This way if u need to drive on tires or fenders of tire u r only driving on safe amount straight on shot w/the bed of trailer. Same axle but better finished product user friendly design for nearly same cost. 3dr way is higher cost axle but same idea, if u use dully axle & only put outside tire on when u need the max width, but can run dully when u need max weight more than width.
When i did this to my trailer last year i just welded the tabs to sit flush to the side of the trailer, drilled a hole in the frame and welded a sleeve in the hole for a push button quick pin to go in and hold the fenders down. That way nothing protruded above the bed rails, mine had a 2”x6” rectangle tube frame so that made it easier for the quick release pins. Also added swivel tongue jacks to the back but my ramps slide in from the rear vs the side, never liked those due to seeing people at the track have to remove the ramps before pulling in between others in the pits before parking.
@@moparfan4388 i looked at probably 20 different trailers and basically combined them all into one design lol, i rolled 3/16” flat plate for my fenders and when i flip then they rest against the tires and i use them as a step to get in the car too but when flipped up i have a triangle step at the hinge point thats a reinforcement plate and use it as a step to get on the trailer or to walk across the fenders. .
They are braces at the back. You put them down when loading a vehicle and with them touching the ground it doesn’t lift the front of the trailer and the rear of the towing vehicle and risk everything going forward while your trying to drive up onto trailer.
You can swap out those back jacks for some that swivel. It helps keep the tail from going to low when loading a vehicle on the trailer. Heavier the vehicle the more down force at the tail and thus lift on the read of the tow vehicle, plus it helps eliminate a lot of strain on the hitch and such. And yes, I thought Sawzall and tire...bad combo =) Not going to say whether I have done the same ;)
I don't wanna remove the fenders and k don't wanna drive over them cause there nice and i wanna keep them.... So first step cut them in half hahahahahaha yes 🤣🤣
The jacks are for loading while it's hooked to your hitch. That prevents the trailer from unloading the rear susp on your truck. I haul cars everyday, and when they really come into play is when I have to winch a vehicle onto the trailer. Keeps the trailer and truck still while loading
Just a suggestion for pinning it down while in transport. Drill and tap the angle that it is resting on and use wing bolts to pin it down. This will eliminate the tabs sticking up and lower the risk of puncturing a tire.
I hope he compensated for when there is weight on that trailer and it squats down closer to the tires the fenders can still clear the top of the tire .
If you put a couple 1inch wheel spacers on each side could your brounco sqeez thourgh? You need those stabilizers or wood boocks to keep weight on the rear tires of the truck,and keep it from moving
He needed about 6 inches more width so he wouldn't run over and destroy his fenders. I have a lifted ram with wide tires, I ran my fenders over and bent the shit out of my fenders, I pounded them back out. When I had to unload, I overfilled my ram tires to thin my tires and ran barely back over my fenders. I need new fenders still, I will try buying some and making them lift off.
Great idea with the flip down fender, does the tab welded on to the deck risk a puncture? Maybe if you drilled a hole in the top 8inch steel, and weld tab do bottom one so it goes through the top hole then the pin to lock in place? Great video though i will be looking into doing my own trailer!!😅🤙🤙
I've been debating lift off fenders on my trailer I randomly found your vidjeo and thought hey that's slick. I like that you don't edit out the mistakes. We are all human.
Those keep the trailer level when loading something, get the trailer level and set them down,then cut them an inch short of on the ground to haul around, they will be below ur bronco wheels when loading, go to 10 ply tires as u need them, even if over kill they will last better
you put the feet down when loading/unloading the trailer so the the rear of the trailer does not squat down and makes the front of the trailer raise up so it doesnt pull the hitch off the ball when loading. I put mine about 3 inches from the ground before I load anything on my trailer. Mine are swivel jacks so they flip up out of the way when not in use.
I like the tilt fenders but why did you weld a tab sticking up to latch them? Now you have to drive over that little piece of metal sticking up. I would have used another hinge so the hole could be folded over.
Great video and lots of ideas! Not many people would show a "negative mechanical incident" but? KUDOS for showing us things you ran into (or cut into). Awesome build and I hope it all worked out for you and the Bronco!
Could you please post a video either on RUclips or Instagram of yourself loading the Bronco on the trailer. I have heard of people driving over the tires like this, but have never actually seen it done. Just trying to decide whether my future trailer will have tilt out fenders like this or drive over fenders. Thanks in advance
Drop those rear jacks/stabilizers down when you’re loading/ unloading to stabilize the trailer. Think about it-if those jacks aren’t on the ground when all the weight is on the back of the trailer, the only thing preventing the trailer from flipping up is the connection at the hitch.
I have two suggestions. First is the pinhole tab that sticks up off the trailer would probably need a 2-in long platform so the tire can go over without puncturing. Second is the stands in the back just install those upside down so you can use it as a handle.
I just added a couple pin on tongue jacks to the rear of my trailer. Even being hooked to my F350, when loading some cars I worried about the negative tongue weight on the truck. One thing you could do is drop them down and figure how much height you need, then cut off the extra. Just remember the trailer will sit lower when loaded, so raise them back up one hole before your final measurement. As far as the retaining tabs for your fenders go, I was thinking about a nut welded under the angle iron then using a thumb screw to hold them down. It would leave a clean surface when flipped over and probably cut down on some rattling while going down the road.
Those telescoping jack stands on the back REAL IMPORTANT! If you get close to the max weight of trailer and don't have them down you'll see why they are there. I have a 12 k,16 foot tilt deck with no jacks in the back (tilt deck). I loaded up a small Snorklift (8000 lbs) on it off a dock. As soon as I got the front wheels of the Snorklift on the trailer the back of the truck wheels came 1 foot off the ground, it rolled a couple feet (no back tires on the ground nothing to stop it)! Now I had a half assed loading job to fix! It took about 3 hours to load with cribbing, cum-a-longs, and a lot of stress.
That was funny - "well, that was stupid". Sounds like something I would do. At least your wife wasn't standing there when you cut into your tire. Good information.
If you load heavy without the outriggers you get weight at the back and the resistance at the front with the truck pulling down. This can eventually bow (catback) your trailer in the middle or crack the frame.
I'll be honest, watching you work, I thought "He'd better remove those tires" the second I saw the Sawzall come out. BUT, if I'm being honest with myself, I probably would have tried what you did, and ruined a tire myself. I'm about to do a similar project, so I'm happy that I was able to learn from your mistakes! I'll be jacking up the trailer and removing the tires for my project! I'll also be installing jacks on the rear corners of my trailer for loading/unloading. I love having them!
If you cut the stabilizer jacks off the trailer( I would not recommend, stow them horizontally on the frame somewhere) or use wheel chocks on your trailer every time you load or unload on the trailer. Remember park or parking in gear with a manual transmission even adding the parking brake only affects the rear axle of the tow rig, ( most likely you have not put the transfer case in gear to use the front axle if you have that option)which is normally off for the job meaning the steering is locked. I had a run away truck trying to load a walk behind ditch witch trencher, on a low profile tilt deck. I like the fold away fenders.
Thank you for the video. 1 ? If you have 2 drive over the tires then that would make the trailer to small right? The tires ride on the edge of the trailer ? Lol I walked away about the part when you said you were going to widen the trailer . Awesome video.
The trailer is wide enough to fit standard vehicles no problem. My bronco has 14" wide tires so they stick out a bit on each side. Enough that they would destroy the trailer fenders pretty quickly.
Those stabilizing jacks on the tail end of the trailer are to keep the tail of the trailer from squatting down towards the ground. If you can prevent the back of the trailer from squatting towards the ground as you drive things on it will keep the tongue of the trailer from pulling up on the hitch of your truck.. I have personally seen somebody loading a big heavy off-road vehicle onto a flatbed trailer and as they were doing this the back of the trailer squatted down the front of the trailer pulled up and actually lifted the back tires of the pickup off the ground which caused the truck to start rolling away across the parking lot because the only tires that have parking brakes are the rear tires on a vehicle. If I were you I would just extend some brackets further out for those little jack stands to still be used but your Bronco could clear them. The only other options I've seen people do is actually put wheel trucks under the trailer tires to prevent the trailer from Rolling forward or putting their truck in four wheel drive and putting it in gear so that way the front tires of the truck are locked and will keep the whole thing from running forward if the back tires of the truck happened to lift off the ground. Just look up some RUclips videos of trucks and trailers running away while they're being loaded.
We just built steel fenders that you can drive over. Makes fenders stronger. Can stand a blow out can stand to leave truck sitting on top if needed. I use rear jacks to lower a bit not all the way to the ground though or you won't get it back up it will be in a bind. Use it to load that way your pulling truck don't raise up in rear and cause your truck to start rolling away.
My grandfather would beat my ass if my bench was that messy....LOL. One thing he always insisted on was an organized shop, perhaps that's why I'm so messy. Saw the cut tire coming from a mile away. Nice project!
I have been considering putting those supports (23:21) on the back of my trailer. If you are loading without them, then the trailer will be pulling up on the ball hitch. If it isn't secured right or just worn it can pop off and be dangerous especially if someone is standing on the front of the trailer guiding the load vehicle onto the trailer. Also I had to load on an decline and so the trailer pulling up on the hitch was unloading the rear axle enough to where the trailer and tow vehicle would both start going downhill. I had to have someone sit in the tow vehicle to step on the brakes to activate the front brakes during loading. You could also use them to unload the tires when parked for long periods or even change a tire by manipulating the front jack when decoupled. I hope this helps.
your video is the best ,, i wish i would have seen something like that 10 yrs ago ,,i sold my trailer it was super heavy duty ,, i had to crawl out every time ,, to get out ,, daaa ,, im not worried about the tire that was cut im always in a hurry to get ur done like you ,, i would take that short cut also
Yep I've done this procedure with my trailer but avoided the mistake of cutting any tires and saw it coming, you beat me to posting the video though I did mine several years ago but I just never have the time to edit and post them. I think maybe long triangular hinges may have been better and stronger and placed on the inside out of view but that would have required more adjustment to remove the gaps. Your welding is much better than mine, frankly I suck. I also used diamond plate aluminum riveted to skin the fender inside walls to give it the needed stiffness and support and clean up my gaps and that went with the rest of the trailer that already had aluminium treads. You'll find that tire clearance becomes and issue when loaded as did I, pushes tires up towards the fender. I guess I should find time to post up my video? Your shop is much better equipped than mine is for metal work too, for my tie downs I used rubber strapped hood tie downs. Now I'm using an old bunk bed frame to build a front rack and also going to diamond plate that for a stone guard and extra cargo space be it tires or whatever. I used chains in the center for support attached to piece of recycled steel that I created a step out of so as to prevent the fender hanging on it's own weight and climb over the fender easier.
The rear stands are for loading, either hooked or not. It gives support so the frame isn’t taking the weight. Problem is if yo put the pads on the ground and load you will never get the pin out to raise the leg. I had to remove my rail and fenders to get my tons onto my trailer. Your design is the best I’ve seen so far. I plan to use a crank style fold away jack at the rear on mine for support. I get a lot of flex when I load. As mentioned I too am concerned about the pin tabs cutting a tire. I thought you would have put them on the front and rear tabs. Any problem so far? Great video and build. Also in AZ.
I believe on them fenders now that you've got them separated from the trailer I would put something between the lips like a piece of rubber for vibration noise and then that way you can put the pins in tighter to hold the fenders where they will not rattle going down the road and make it sound like a rattle trap
Didn't read other comments, but you could have put a slot in the bottom brace and had the pin under the braces and out of the way of the deck. As for the rear supports take some square and just tuck them up under the front in case you decide to try them out they're at least with the trailer.
Great Project! You may want to make one change to the design. The fenders may need to be easy removed in the future due to an unforeseen incident like a blow out. I would make the hing pins removable. Just a thought. A blow out will destroy the fender.
I'm glad I ran across this video because I put fenders on a friends car trailer and they sit too high to open the door on his race car. I was going to redo them to be taken off but I like this much better. Also subscribing to your channel today, as well.
Good job big guy, it looks great and solves your troubles. I was just wondering what is the plan if the loaded vehicle has a wheelbase that leaves a rear tire over top of the trailer wheels? Those out riggers are for safely loading the trailer if it is unhooked from the truck. It will be very helpful to keep the hitch attached to your truck if you load a very heavy vehicle just in case the hitch detaches from the truck. I think we all have had a hitch jump off a ball at least once in our lives. Keep up the great content.
I have rip off fenders.I want take off fenders. I can just have one pin one end. And truck hood bungee on other end 😮 . Next vidio will be. How to patch your own tire. Lolz 😂
I'm going to more or less copy what you did here, for my rock crawler trailer. I think that lessons learned are hugely important! If you were to start over again right now, what would you do differently? I was thinking maybe hinge the fender just s touch further out toward the lip of the fender, and maybe cut the fender where it's welded to the trailer, rather than at the feck height, since you said that it easily cleared when tipped? Thoughts?
The fender does rub on the tires when the trailer is loaded but they'll still close with a little persuasion. I don't think I'd change much. I do need to add a chain or some kind of stop so the fender doesn't sit on the side of the tire when open. I've bent two of the hinges when loading and I think it's from the fender rubbing on the tire.
support Jack's on the dovetail on your trailer is 4 if you got a heavy load and ride up on it it won't pull your trailer ball and total the back of tow truck that is Towing it collateral damage or hurting somebody
I'd still use those for loading even when I was hooked to a truck. Helps stabilizing everything.
Thanks for being real in your video…we all make mistakes. Putting yourself out there to help others learn is not a bad way to make a video! Keep it up!
The jacks on the back of the trailer stop the trailer from picking up the back wheels of the tow vehicle when loading. This would be a bad idea as the front wheels do not have e-brake on towing vehicle. Also do the tab welded on the trailer to secure the finder harm your tires. Really like your design on the hinge. Great Job.
I need to add rear jacks to my trailer I loaded my 2010 gmc sierra on my trailer hooked up to my lighter 2019 F150 and it just just about lifted the wheels of the F150 up. Loading the F150 onto the trailer doesn't lift the sierra up
I put 2 small swivel trailer jacks on the back of my trailer. They don't stick up over the deck.
KISS. Use a block or two of 6x6 cutoffs. That way you can just pull forward off the blocks without having to get out a Jack to take the pressure off the pins to lift up these supports.
The drop down legs are used to keep from bending the trailer when loading heavy equipment
I literally told myself the same thing “he’s probably going to cut the tire”
I need to do this to my 20ft car hauler. I'm tired of crawling out the window when the doors won't open due to the
fenders. Appreciate the videos!
Oh yeah, that does bring back memories (maybe not fun memories though). The other similar predicament is getting out of a car inside a closed trailer. The bystanders seem to be more amused by it than I am... maybe I need to find more sympathetic bystanders! 🤣
I plan on making fenders that lift off. His Are still in the way for forklift
your right i wish i would have never sold my trailer it had a frame like a railroad track ,, it was factory but i had to crawl out also,, wish i never sold it
I would not let the fenders rest against the tires when you have them folded out while you're loading because as you're driving on your Bronco that trailer is going to rock back and forth and the tires are going to rock back and forth and it could cut the side walls of the tire on the edge of the sharp metal fender
I love your tilting fender solution. I was thinking of making my fender lift off, so that I could open my car door enough to crawl in, instead of going thru the window. Kudos to you for leaving in your mistakes. Not only were they entertaining, but you saved a few people from doing the same things. I call it entertaining instruction.
As for the rear jacks, just watch a few RUclips videos of people loading their vehicles, only to have their truck and trailer roll down a hill. My trailer doesn't have them, so I will add them.
Great idea……poor execution
I could not believe what I was seeing, bad place to be using a demolition saw with a long blade, so off to the tire store he will go! But anyway you should go the The Home Depot and check out the new TIP-OUT SYSTEM on the trailers they sell, it is simple and I'm sure you will like it, mater of fact, with the trailer there you can tip out the entire sides.
Those are for loading heaver stuff on a lighter truck than what you have so when the load hits dovetail it doesnt lift the rear of the truck and the whole thing starts rolling on u i would change those out with a tiltable screw jack that pins on and can be removed when needed to
That's pretty much what I was thinking. Just wondered why they seem to be twice as tall as they need to be. I like the screw jack idea. Thanks for the comment.
@@Fabrication101 no problem bulldog makes a jack that pins in place and you can remove it to load your bronco alot of trailer builders put those as a liability eliminator
@@Fabrication101 like others have said, they make jacke that swivel up out of the way or get fully removed but yes, they are to support the rear of the trailer when you load heavy things as it is hooked to the truck. You ever see the videos where people load a heavy tractor and half way on the trailer it raises the rear truck tires off the ground and the truck and trailer start rolling away !!! Well,these prevent this from happening.
this may not help in your case but the make spacers for jeeper & that would be just enough wider that u r not hving to drive on/over the tires. The other may not apply but some1 else may help is if they make the trailers w/the tire built into^ the trailer on 1side & out side the trailer on the other side. This way if u need to drive on tires or fenders of tire u r only driving on safe amount straight on shot w/the bed of trailer. Same axle but better finished product user friendly design for nearly same cost. 3dr way is higher cost axle but same idea, if u use dully axle & only put outside tire on when u need the max width, but can run dully when u need max weight more than width.
Those outriggers are to keep the ass end of the truck from coming up enough to lift the back tires off the ground while loading heavy vehicle's..
I just extended my trailer 10” to accommodate my Teryx 4 I had a 2 seater that fit in my 10 ft trailer but my 4 seater is 3” to big.
When i did this to my trailer last year i just welded the tabs to sit flush to the side of the trailer, drilled a hole in the frame and welded a sleeve in the hole for a push button quick pin to go in and hold the fenders down. That way nothing protruded above the bed rails, mine had a 2”x6” rectangle tube frame so that made it easier for the quick release pins. Also added swivel tongue jacks to the back but my ramps slide in from the rear vs the side, never liked those due to seeing people at the track have to remove the ramps before pulling in between others in the pits before parking.
Another thing that you don't think about until someone mentions it. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@moparfan4388 i looked at probably 20 different trailers and basically combined them all into one design lol, i rolled 3/16” flat plate for my fenders and when i flip then they rest against the tires and i use them as a step to get in the car too but when flipped up i have a triangle step at the hinge point thats a reinforcement plate and use it as a step to get on the trailer or to walk across the fenders. .
They are braces at the back. You put them down when loading a vehicle and with them touching the ground it doesn’t lift the front of the trailer and the rear of the towing vehicle and risk everything going forward while your trying to drive up onto trailer.
You can swap out those back jacks for some that swivel. It helps keep the tail from going to low when loading a vehicle on the trailer. Heavier the vehicle the more down force at the tail and thus lift on the read of the tow vehicle, plus it helps eliminate a lot of strain on the hitch and such. And yes, I thought Sawzall and tire...bad combo =) Not going to say whether I have done the same ;)
I don't wanna remove the fenders and k don't wanna drive over them cause there nice and i wanna keep them.... So first step cut them in half hahahahahaha yes 🤣🤣
Why not make them completly removeble,then no worrys about other stuff
Add some fold away trailer Jack's on the back instead of what the dealer put on there
The jacks are for loading while it's hooked to your hitch. That prevents the trailer from unloading the rear susp on your truck. I haul cars everyday, and when they really come into play is when I have to winch a vehicle onto the trailer. Keeps the trailer and truck still while loading
I was like he's about to cut a tire then I was like no stupid me he took them off. Haha we both stupid but it happens
Just a suggestion for pinning it down while in transport. Drill and tap the angle that it is resting on and use wing bolts to pin it down. This will eliminate the tabs sticking up and lower the risk of puncturing a tire.
I thought "he's about to cut the tire" then I saw the spare and then thought "he already took them off" . . .
Glad you kept it real if i could say i never made any dumb avoidable mistakes id be lying
Also helps not lift up back of truck . But honestly do not need
they are to put down when loading the trailer so you don't lift the back of the TV
I hope he compensated for when there is weight on that trailer and it squats down closer to the tires the fenders can still clear the top of the tire .
Yep I was thinking you were going to cut the tire.Your not an idiot
saw that coming. thx for sharing.
If you put a couple 1inch wheel spacers on each side could your brounco sqeez thourgh? You need those stabilizers or wood boocks to keep weight on the rear tires of the truck,and keep it from moving
He needed about 6 inches more width so he wouldn't run over and destroy his fenders. I have a lifted ram with wide tires, I ran my fenders over and bent the shit out of my fenders, I pounded them back out. When I had to unload, I overfilled my ram tires to thin my tires and ran barely back over my fenders. I need new fenders still, I will try buying some and making them lift off.
Great idea with the flip down fender, does the tab welded on to the deck risk a puncture? Maybe if you drilled a hole in the top 8inch steel, and weld tab do bottom one so it goes through the top hole then the pin to lock in place? Great video though i will be looking into doing my own trailer!!😅🤙🤙
Haven't had any issues with the tab. It barely touches the tires on my rig since they ride up on the trailer tires a little.
I saw it coming. I was thinking why he did not take the tires off
I've been debating lift off fenders on my trailer I randomly found your vidjeo and thought hey that's slick. I like that you don't edit out the mistakes. We are all human.
My first thought was goodbye tires.
Those keep the trailer level when loading something, get the trailer level and set them down,then cut them an inch short of on the ground to haul around, they will be below ur bronco wheels when loading, go to 10 ply tires as u need them, even if over kill they will last better
you put the feet down when loading/unloading the trailer so the the rear of the trailer does not squat down and makes the front of the trailer raise up so it doesnt pull the hitch off the ball when loading. I put mine about 3 inches from the ground before I load anything on my trailer. Mine are swivel jacks so they flip up out of the way when not in use.
Thanks
I like the tilt fenders but why did you weld a tab sticking up to latch them? Now you have to drive over that little piece of metal sticking up. I would have used another hinge so the hole could be folded over.
I have a redesign in mind but believe it or not the tires on my Bronco barely touch them.
Nice work! Where did you find those hinges? I’ve looked all over and can’t find them. Thanks!
I picked them up at our local Ace Hardware store
look at a u-hall car trailer. How there fender is held latched
It looks like trailer stabilizer jacks.
Great video and lots of ideas! Not many people would show a "negative mechanical incident" but? KUDOS for showing us things you ran into (or cut into). Awesome build and I hope it all worked out for you and the Bronco!
I would change the lock tabs they will cut the tires and back jacks are so the truck doesn't lift up and go forward and smash it to something
The tires on my Bronco just barely make contact with them. I might have an idea for a future change though.
At 1st when you where using the grinder, I thought, "tire fire?!" but then when you brought out the saw, "well that tire is toast!"
Nice idea. Waiting for the weekend to do the same. Can't wait!
I would build a tilt block for the rear drop legs those cone in handy to keep from shoving truck hard when you load easy on transmission
Could you please post a video either on RUclips or Instagram of yourself loading the Bronco on the trailer. I have heard of people driving over the tires like this, but have never actually seen it done. Just trying to decide whether my future trailer will have tilt out fenders like this or drive over fenders. Thanks in advance
Drop those rear jacks/stabilizers down when you’re loading/ unloading to stabilize the trailer. Think about it-if those jacks aren’t on the ground when all the weight is on the back of the trailer, the only thing preventing the trailer from flipping up is the connection at the hitch.
I have two suggestions. First is the pinhole tab that sticks up off the trailer would probably need a 2-in long platform so the tire can go over without puncturing. Second is the stands in the back just install those upside down so you can use it as a handle.
I just added a couple pin on tongue jacks to the rear of my trailer. Even being hooked to my F350, when loading some cars I worried about the negative tongue weight on the truck. One thing you could do is drop them down and figure how much height you need, then cut off the extra. Just remember the trailer will sit lower when loaded, so raise them back up one hole before your final measurement. As far as the retaining tabs for your fenders go, I was thinking about a nut welded under the angle iron then using a thumb screw to hold them down. It would leave a clean surface when flipped over and probably cut down on some rattling while going down the road.
Those telescoping jack stands on the back REAL IMPORTANT! If you get close to the max weight of trailer and don't have them down you'll see why they are there. I have a 12 k,16 foot tilt deck with no jacks in the back (tilt deck). I loaded up a small Snorklift (8000 lbs) on it off a dock. As soon as I got the front wheels of the Snorklift on the trailer the back of the truck wheels came 1 foot off the ground, it rolled a couple feet (no back tires on the ground nothing to stop it)! Now I had a half assed loading job to fix! It took about 3 hours to load with cribbing, cum-a-longs, and a lot of stress.
I thought you got them tires off right
That was funny - "well, that was stupid".
Sounds like something I would do.
At least your wife wasn't standing there when you cut into your tire.
Good information.
Those jacks could come in handy if you ever have to change a tire on the side of the road.
I'd put them back on but they would be in the way when I load my bronco.
If you load heavy without the outriggers you get weight at the back and the resistance at the front with the truck pulling down. This can eventually bow (catback) your trailer in the middle or crack the frame.
Yup. When you grabbed the sawzall, I thought.. Did he take the tires off? Seen that one coming. Sucks. But.. You did a great job on the fenders!
That’s so when loading, you drop those on the ground and the a$$ of trailer doesn’t stop taking weight off your truck.
I'll be honest, watching you work, I thought "He'd better remove those tires" the second I saw the Sawzall come out. BUT, if I'm being honest with myself, I probably would have tried what you did, and ruined a tire myself. I'm about to do a similar project, so I'm happy that I was able to learn from your mistakes! I'll be jacking up the trailer and removing the tires for my project! I'll also be installing jacks on the rear corners of my trailer for loading/unloading. I love having them!
I’m thinking those tabs for the pins can go through a tire. Your assessment of the rear jacks is correct.
If you cut the stabilizer jacks off the trailer( I would not recommend, stow them horizontally on the frame somewhere) or use wheel chocks on your trailer every time you load or unload on the trailer. Remember park or parking in gear with a manual transmission even adding the parking brake only affects the rear axle of the tow rig, ( most likely you have not put the transfer case in gear to use the front axle if you have that option)which is normally off for the job meaning the steering is locked. I had a run away truck trying to load a walk behind ditch witch trencher, on a low profile tilt deck. I like the fold away fenders.
Nice project, I've seen removable fenders but like the tilt are much nicer. 👌
Thank you for the video. 1 ? If you have 2 drive over the tires then that would make the trailer to small right?
The tires ride on the edge of the trailer ? Lol I walked away about the part when you said you were going to widen the trailer . Awesome video.
The trailer is wide enough to fit standard vehicles no problem. My bronco has 14" wide tires so they stick out a bit on each side. Enough that they would destroy the trailer fenders pretty quickly.
👍👍
Those stabilizing jacks on the tail end of the trailer are to keep the tail of the trailer from squatting down towards the ground. If you can prevent the back of the trailer from squatting towards the ground as you drive things on it will keep the tongue of the trailer from pulling up on the hitch of your truck.. I have personally seen somebody loading a big heavy off-road vehicle onto a flatbed trailer and as they were doing this the back of the trailer squatted down the front of the trailer pulled up and actually lifted the back tires of the pickup off the ground which caused the truck to start rolling away across the parking lot because the only tires that have parking brakes are the rear tires on a vehicle. If I were you I would just extend some brackets further out for those little jack stands to still be used but your Bronco could clear them. The only other options I've seen people do is actually put wheel trucks under the trailer tires to prevent the trailer from Rolling forward or putting their truck in four wheel drive and putting it in gear so that way the front tires of the truck are locked and will keep the whole thing from running forward if the back tires of the truck happened to lift off the ground. Just look up some RUclips videos of trucks and trailers running away while they're being loaded.
It’s best to push mig!
Tks for the video going to do mine the stands in the rear holds the back of the tralier is to keep from putting a load on your hitch when you load
We just built steel fenders that you can drive over. Makes fenders stronger. Can stand a blow out can stand to leave truck sitting on top if needed. I use rear jacks to lower a bit not all the way to the ground though or you won't get it back up it will be in a bind. Use it to load that way your pulling truck don't raise up in rear and cause your truck to start rolling away.
right when you started with the sawzall ... i was saying WAIT the tire!!!!
So driving over the tab doesn't puncture a tire?..
Actually the tires barely touch the tabs.
Great fix! Note to self, only buy trailers with tires UNDER the deck...just for safety sake
Will the lock down for fenders going to cut your tire when loading
Nope, the tires on my Bronco run up on the trailer tires so they barely even touch the tabs.
you could even use a small hinge as the tabs so that they fold down out of the way
My grandfather would beat my ass if my bench was that messy....LOL. One thing he always insisted on was an organized shop, perhaps that's why I'm so messy. Saw the cut tire coming from a mile away. Nice project!
I have been considering putting those supports (23:21) on the back of my trailer. If you are loading without them, then the trailer will be pulling up on the ball hitch. If it isn't secured right or just worn it can pop off and be dangerous especially if someone is standing on the front of the trailer guiding the load vehicle onto the trailer. Also I had to load on an decline and so the trailer pulling up on the hitch was unloading the rear axle enough to where the trailer and tow vehicle would both start going downhill. I had to have someone sit in the tow vehicle to step on the brakes to activate the front brakes during loading. You could also use them to unload the tires when parked for long periods or even change a tire by manipulating the front jack when decoupled. I hope this helps.
I want to make flip out fenders but i was thinking of making the whole thing flip forward. And this way your fender still not in way.
I consider that idea, but felt it would put a lot of pressure on the hinge during loading or unloading
Technically no. Because your tire on your buggy wouldnt come in contact with it. Because i would make pivot point below the trailer deck height
Nice job on explaining your process. New Sub. Thanks!
your video is the best ,, i wish i would have seen something like that 10 yrs ago ,,i sold my trailer it was super heavy duty ,, i had to crawl out every time ,, to get out ,, daaa ,, im not worried about the tire that was cut im always in a hurry to get ur done like you ,, i would take that short cut also
Yep I've done this procedure with my trailer but avoided the mistake of cutting any tires and saw it coming, you beat me to posting the video though I did mine several years ago but I just never have the time to edit and post them. I think maybe long triangular hinges may have been better and stronger and placed on the inside out of view but that would have required more adjustment to remove the gaps. Your welding is much better than mine, frankly I suck. I also used diamond plate aluminum riveted to skin the fender inside walls to give it the needed stiffness and support and clean up my gaps and that went with the rest of the trailer that already had aluminium treads. You'll find that tire clearance becomes and issue when loaded as did I, pushes tires up towards the fender. I guess I should find time to post up my video? Your shop is much better equipped than mine is for metal work too, for my tie downs I used rubber strapped hood tie downs. Now I'm using an old bunk bed frame to build a front rack and also going to diamond plate that for a stone guard and extra cargo space be it tires or whatever. I used chains in the center for support attached to piece of recycled steel that I created a step out of so as to prevent the fender hanging on it's own weight and climb over the fender easier.
Do these make any racket going down the road?
Only on very bumpy roads. Even then, I don't think it's any louder than the ramps bouncing around under the trailer.
The rear stands are for loading, either hooked or not. It gives support so the frame isn’t taking the weight. Problem is if yo put the pads on the ground and load you will never get the pin out to raise the leg.
I had to remove my rail and fenders to get my tons onto my trailer. Your design is the best I’ve seen so far. I plan to use a crank style fold away jack at the rear on mine for support. I get a lot of flex when I load.
As mentioned I too am concerned about the pin tabs cutting a tire. I thought you would have put them on the front and rear tabs. Any problem so far?
Great video and build. Also in AZ.
I believe on them fenders now that you've got them separated from the trailer I would put something between the lips like a piece of rubber for vibration noise and then that way you can put the pins in tighter to hold the fenders where they will not rattle going down the road and make it sound like a rattle trap
Didn't read other comments, but you could have put a slot in the bottom brace and had the pin under the braces and out of the way of the deck.
As for the rear supports take some square and just tuck them up under the front in case you decide to try them out they're at least with the trailer.
Great Project! You may want to make one change to the design. The fenders may need to be easy removed in the future due to an unforeseen incident like a blow out. I would make the hing pins removable. Just a thought. A blow out will destroy the fender.
I'm glad I ran across this video because I put fenders on a friends car trailer and they sit too high to open the door on his race car. I was going to redo them to be taken off but I like this much better. Also subscribing to your channel today, as well.
I would imagine the outriggers are so you can load without stressing your tow package of your truck or rip the hitch off the ball
Good job big guy, it looks great and solves your troubles. I was just wondering what is the plan if the loaded vehicle has a wheelbase that leaves a rear tire over top of the trailer wheels? Those out riggers are for safely loading the trailer if it is unhooked from the truck. It will be very helpful to keep the hitch attached to your truck if you load a very heavy vehicle just in case the hitch detaches from the truck. I think we all have had a hitch jump off a ball at least once in our lives. Keep up the great content.
Has anyone mentioned the rear jack stands yet?
Only a few. 😅
I was thinking it but I don't think your an idiot. You just was into the job at hand an had a little costly oversight lol
And great job on fenders. Going to do it to my trailer. Tired of climbing out windows.
The out rigger is for loading really heavy equipment so the rear end don’t squish to the ground
You got video of loading the bronco?
Not yet, I've been meaning to do some additional work on the trailer and an update on how the fenders have held up.
Saw it coming. No pun intended.
Pun appreciated 👏
I have rip off fenders.I want take off fenders. I can just have one pin one end. And truck hood bungee on other end 😮 . Next vidio will be. How to patch your own tire. Lolz 😂
I'm going to more or less copy what you did here, for my rock crawler trailer. I think that lessons learned are hugely important! If you were to start over again right now, what would you do differently? I was thinking maybe hinge the fender just s touch further out toward the lip of the fender, and maybe cut the fender where it's welded to the trailer, rather than at the feck height, since you said that it easily cleared when tipped? Thoughts?
The fender does rub on the tires when the trailer is loaded but they'll still close with a little persuasion. I don't think I'd change much. I do need to add a chain or some kind of stop so the fender doesn't sit on the side of the tire when open. I've bent two of the hinges when loading and I think it's from the fender rubbing on the tire.
support Jack's on the dovetail on your trailer is 4 if you got a heavy load and ride up on it it won't pull your trailer ball and total the back of tow truck that is Towing it collateral damage or hurting somebody
Nicceee
When you started the video you measured the trailer width for allowable track width of 82”. What was the with after doing this? It came out great!
The deck of the trailer is still about 82" so you can't go too much wider without falling off. My broncos tires stick of about 3" off each side.
The number one reason to have tip-out fenders is because they are cool!
What did you use for the hinges
Our local Ace hardware store has some pretty decent weld on hinges that I used.
The jacks in the back are for when you put a heavy load they help prevent picking the ass end of your truck up when loading and unloading
The jack stands are on the back of your trailer so when you something heavy you dont lift the back tires of your truck & have a run away problem
I had a feeling u was going to do that lol. great job I need you to do my fender where you located