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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Making a Stuart Half Beam Steam Engine (aka Grasshopper).......
In this video, part 17 of the series, I machine the Eccentric Strap & Sheave.
Many thanks to everyone for the help and advice provided, especially Peter (aka Model Steamers). Peter's channel can be found at:
/ @modelsteamers671
I hope some of my videos help inspire others to venture into model engineering.
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
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Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - RUclips Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!
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Everyone is a beginner once in their lives, keep it up! Good job Andrew.
I learnt the lesson of parting off a sheave once the offset hole is drilled and breaking the parting blade. I was advised either cut it of partway, stop befor you hit the hole and then finish off with hacksaw, OR, mount the sheave in the chuck on the offset boss so that the shaft hole is concentric, that way you don't break the parting tool when it meets the hole. Hope that is helpful.
Thanks for the tip Terry. Interrupted cuts can be a nightmare at times.
Happy Christmas!
Andrew
Hi Andrew
Great video.
If we don't make mistakes we don't learn.
Looking forward to see your engine come to life.
Cheers
Gary
Hi Gary - I definately agree - the best way to learn is from your mistakes.
I do hope it runs OK. Fingers crossed!
All the best.
Andrew
Great video Andrew.
Keith Appleton has some videos demonstrating the art of silver soldering but, you made it through just fine.
I appreciate your bringing us along with your many adventures.
Thanks Robert - After my soldering disaster I did check out Keith Appleton's channel and he makes it look so easy. I think I need to get hold of some reputable materials and practice a technique.
I like to show good and bad bits. It's a great way to get advice and also show other novices that not everything goes to plan.
All the best.
Andrew
I was going to point you in Keith’s direction. His videos are firmly aimed at the beginner (like me) and he explains things so well and also shows what can go wrong and alternative ways to resolve things.
The other creator you may enjoy watching is MyfordBoy. He does some amazing content and teaches by showing - well worth your time to watch his videos.
@@nickprescottskymap3dltd348 Hi Nick, the only trouble with Myfordboy is that he will not speak and tell you what he is doing, so in that case a real beginner will still have no idea as to what to do., and why it is done a certain way. I did write and tell him to speak, but he refuses to do so, so hence I do not watch him anymore.
Yet again that worked well.
A slight reminder, the blunt end of a drill, even HSS, is unhardened ie soft, soft enough that you can drill one with another drill.
Hi Chris - thanks for the reminder. I will try to remember that one. I agree - it did work pretty well.
Cheers
Andrew
That was tricky, but you nailed it! Nice job! Can’t wait to see it running!!
Thanks Dominic - it's starting to get exciting! I still need to decide on paint colour and some form of brick work around the colums.
All the best.
Andrew
Definitely should use soft solder for this kind of application. Coming along nicely
D.R.Engineering I was thinking the same thing!
Me too.
Or try Fryolux soft solder paint (or similar).
Thanks mate - looks like really good advice based on other comments.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Nick - interesting - I must investigate.
Cheers
Andrew
If you are joining parts together you should use soft solder. Silver solder is used for parts you want to join forever.
You also need to heat the part to red heat till the flux turns to water and then apply the solder.
Yes totally agree use soft solder for tempory gluing parts together using plumbers pipe flux i.e. yellow tub from B&Q.
Thanks for the advice. Maybe I should have used soft solder - but I thought it seemed like a good opportunity to have a play with some silver solder. At least I now know that it's something I need to practice. It's definately a technique I'm determined to learn.
Cheers
Andrew
Apply the flux to the cold part then heat the part until flux goes transparent and then remove the heat for a second and touch the solder onto the heated part. That way if the part is hot enough it will melt the solder instead of the flame melting the solder and it then cooling on a part in a glob. Another trick is to thin the solder by tapping it on a metal bock to change it from a round to a flat and it will then be thinner and have more surface area to melt easier. Keep up the great work.
Parting is such sweet sorrow for me too , Love the idea of making your own groovy baby tool . cannot wait to see this lil engine running
Thanks Nigel - it's great when parting goes well, but scary when it doesn't. Yeah that little tool worked really well. I can't wait to see it running either - fingers crossed it will be in the next video.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Another great video.
Use a fire brick when silver soldering. It would help with keeping heat in the part.
Silver Solder comes in different types. Some can use lower heat to work. Ideal for use with those Mapp/propane gas burners. Others require a much hotter heat such as oxy-acetylene.
I've been using 'Johnson Matthey Silverflo 55 1mm diameter rods'. Works very well on those small engine parts.
Regards
MachineNZ
Thanks for the advice Kevin. I'll see if I can get hold of some Silverflo55. I got my rods off eBay, together with some flux. I think I need to get some reputable materials and then practice, practice, practice.
Cheers
Andrew
For the silver soldering clean work carefully and cover the mating surfaces with flux, gently clamp together and heat. The silver solder will flash into the gap by capillary action like magic. If there are any area you do not want the solder to go use a very soft graphite pencil to mark areas before fluxing. The graphite will not allow the silver solder to adhere where it is marked.
Hi Steve. Many thanks for the advice. I think I need to get hold of some reputable rods and flux and start practicing.
All the best.
Andrew
Andrew, check out ruclips.net/video/kIKQ-FL96uU/видео.html for silver soldering. I really enjoy watching your videos and am impressed by the workmanship. It’s nice to see someone else’s thought processes regarding how to create from lumps of metal. My problem is I tend to over think the order of operations. Like with eccentric sheaves, I like the the same thickness as the strap with an Allen key grub screw adjusted through a small oiler hole on the strap which then has an oil cup screwed in. One tendency I am noticing is the use of superglue or strong loctite instead of silver soldering for fixing pieces together just for machining. My goal is to work on every Stuart engine so I buy part built or damaged engines, fix them up and either sell them on to a new owner or add them to my collection. My latest acquisition is very interesting, it is the frame only of a Stuart turner ‘real engine’ only it is fabricated to the enhanced version found in the making book with the much improved top and middle frame. The workmanship is such on the top piece that i have not figured out how it was constructed. Just the rest of it to be constructed. Fortunately I have a large box of Stuart castings so cylinder, end caps, flywheel, eccentrics just need machining. Also looking at designing some complicated, artistic finials to pop on top of the columns to be extra decorative. Steve
Hi Andrew, nice job good to see it turned out well in the end.
As for the soldering really you need some vermiculite (or similar) bricks to make a closed area that reflects the heat back at the metal and don't use a vice as it acts as a heat sink. You need only to wet once side with a very thin film of solder then sweat them together.
I take the point that some others have said about using soft solder but to be fair I have made a few of these using silver solder and provided there is only tiny drop of solder the components do part easily after machining.
I look forward to seeing it running :-)
Thanks Peter. I think I might have had too many beers the other day and forgot the technique! Many thanks for the advice. It was sort of fun trying out silver soldering and certainly something I need to get better at.
Getting to the exciting bit - fingers crossed!
Cheers!
Andrew
G’day Andrew another great video. Yesterday I was silver soldering with the same results and yes like you I thoroughly cleaned it, or did we:(
Machining to a nice fit, it seems to not work quick for me either, YT makes it look so easy, set the dial to give 0.001” clearance and Bobs your uncle, well I don’t have a Bob for an uncle and it rarely works quick for me also.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter - it's good to know that I am not alone! I don't have Bob for an uncle either!
Take care mate.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Enjoyed the video, lots of patience with small parts, end result is looking good.
I had a lot of problems in the early days when parting with HSS on a small lathe and found that the grind was the key factor. I never grind the top of the blade, always keeping a neutral angle which greatly reduces the tendency to dig in.
I also use a minimal front clearance angle, just a couple of degrees. Apart from maximising strength in the cutting edge it also reduces the depth of cut.
The combined effect is to reduce the amount of material removed and therefore the downward pressure on the tool. There is also less tendency for chips to bind in the cut.
This seems to work equally well with steel, aluminium and brass.
A benefit of this approach is that I can keep re-grinding the blade without having the problem of either losing width, which results in binding on deep cuts, or having to completely remove the back rake and start again.
Many thanks for the advice. I think I will try to get hold of some more HSS parting blades and have a go at regrinding as you suggest.
Alll the best.
Andrew
Great stuff Andrew, I like watching your quests. A tip on parting steel is to run very slow, keep the pressure on the cut, lots of lube and a freshly ground tip, steel turns to butter ;)
Thanks Ade - I really appreciate the tips.
All the best.
Andrew
Agree with Ade. Also is your parting blade tip on centre with your work? It needs to be slightly lower than centre for it to work without chatter and breakage. Other cutters are always on centre. Keep up the good work.
Hi Andrew
love the videos it looks like i am not the only one that has parting tool problems
cheers chopper 316 in Chester Uk
Hi Nigel - it's great when parting goes well but scary when it doesn't. I've had quite a few comments/suggestions on how to improve - well worth a read.
Take care!
Andrew
I dread parting, but find that one of the HSS 3/32nd parting blade works well at slow speed on my Chester DB7. 120-200 maybe, razor sharp and bang on centre. Looks great Andrew. Think I can feel my next model coming on :) Can't wait to see it running.
Hi Ian - yeah my parting blade was 1/16" - I'll look for some 3/32" ones. it's definately getting the exciting bit now! I just need to think about paint colour and some kind of brickwork around the columns (maybe I could 3D print something).
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Well worth it Andrew. I have a 1/16 one also, which is fine on Brass and Ali, but hopeless on Steel. If you check eBay, you can buy proper clay bricks, from china, but they aren't too cheap. Reckon those would be spot on. I also did the flooring on my Beam and the Marine single with "dolls house tiles" from eBay too, although I doubt you'll need/use them on this model....one for the future though.
Great video Andrew. BTW, I’ve made several of those straps just using the bolts and the chuck jaws for holding the two halves together and haven’t had any problems yet.
Thanks mate. Yeah I think I went a little overkill. Though it was interesting having a go at silver soldering and then failing miserably. I like trying out new things.
Cheers
Andrew
I hope you put some type of match marks on the strap to insure it can always be put back. I sure wondered why you were making joining the strap for boring so hard. Guess that is how we learn. 👍
Thanks mate - I will definately put some match marks on. Thanks for reminding me.
Cheers
Andrew
Greetings from Belarus. I’m following your channel with interest. I saw how you broke the cutting tool - the tool breaks for the reason that you have a large longitudinal feed is not fixed. Before cutting, the feed must be clamped very tightly - so that it is impossible to move the hand left and right - this is the problem of small lathes. I wish you more good ideas.
Many thanks for the advice.
Cheers
Andrew
You're doing a....."Whale" of a job Andrew!
Sorry about the cheap and tawdry American 🇺🇸 humor! lol!
I would be willing to bet everything I own that you rolled your eyes at that one.But seriously you're doing a great job!
Ha ha. Thanks mate.
Try not to silver solder holding in a vice, takes away too much heat, need to get job to cherry red , flux turns to liquid, flux on rod after pre heating rod , rod touched on job ,solder should flash onto job, hope this helps , ken
Ken Preddy : I agree with everything Ken said but I'm questioning your gas choice. It sounded like propane but could have been MAP gas. I've never been successful silver soldering with either of those gases. You may need to get a small Oxygen acetylene kit to get the heat needed for this operation.
Thanks for the advice Ken - it makes a lot of sense. I think I will try to get hold of some reputable rods and flux and have a good practice.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Craig - The gas is called MAP-PLUS - maybe just a fancy name for MAPP gas. My plumber recently offered to lend me his Oxygen acetylene gear, but it would frighten the living daylights out of me. Maybe in my younger days!
All the best.
Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale : Andrew, Oxy Acetylene is something to be cautious with but not something to fear. AVE recently did a video on it and the master model builder Keith Appleton has many videos on its uses. Ask your plumbing to show you the proper way to light it and after that it's like using MAP gas.
I don't know if you can get the small units like AVE shows in England but here in the States it's available. For us model builders it's an ideal size. You can do it!
Thanks Craig. I might give it a try sometime.
Hi Andrew,
Following your series with great interest. Just a note but you may have more success with the parting tool if you run the lathe much more slowly when parting off.
Hi mate - thanks for the advice. I will definately slow it down next time!
Cheers
Andrew
Hi there
I seem to remember a 3/32 slitting saw mounted in a large to split the strap. Being the correct size to ensure a round strap.
Hi Steve. Yeah I have a slitting saw but it just wasn't wide enough to avoid hitting the vice.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi. When using edge finders the edge you are touching should be machined. Doing it off of rough castings is just hit and miss. Just a point I thought I will make.
Thanks Demot. Very good point.
Cheers
Andrew
You need to use soft solder not silver solder. It is easy to heat up to separate the parts again.
Thanks Tony - it looks like soft solder would have been a better option - but I just couldn't resist the challenge of having a go at silver soldering.
All the best.
Andrew
Andrew. With the use of the parting tool, you had 2 problems. One was that you were running it too fast and secondly you had too much tool stick out. Got there in the end though.
Thanks Dave - I think you are spot on. I will definately try to remember that for next time.
All the best.
Andrew
More heat! And where the hell did you get that vice?
Hi Damian - yeah I agree - I failed badly at silver soldering. Interesting though! I bought that vice when I was 18 years old. I broke it a few years later when trying to press bushes into one of my MG Midget's kingpins. My brother-in-law took it to his works workshop and they welded it back up. Still works like new. Good old British engineering!
Cheers
Andrew
I have a c3 and on my parting blade I sharpen to the normal cutting angle then on the top of the blade I take my dremal and make a semicircle relif that just touches the cutting tip then when I use it I drip cutting oil on the cut so it's all ways got oil on it the relif allows the chip to come off the work nearly straight down rather than at 90 degree and because its concave it makes the chip roll up and clear itself 9. 5 out of 10 parting jobs go OK for me hop this is to some use
Thanks for the tip Daniel. I might have a go at that and maybe reduce the cutting angle slightly at the same time. It's strange that sometimes parting off goes like a dream and other times it's a disaster. Others have suggested that the blade was too far out of the holder as well. Something I need to check next time.
Cheers
Andrew
Why don't you just drill and tap for the rod bolts , then split it and bolt it back together to bore the center.
Yeah - I guess that would have worked. I think I just went for a belt and braces approach.
Cheers
Andrew
Watch Keith Appleton he has some brilliant videos on how to silver solder
Hi Michael - I came across those a while back. It definitely helped me improve my silver soldering skills.
Cheers
Andrew
Solder and I just don't get on. I've avoided having to glue/solder in these circumstances by turning my own 7BA bolts from 7BA hex steel, with the unthreaded section an exact fit in the drilled holes. Parting off DRY (with an inverted parting tool in a rear tool post) works best for me. Lubrication sometimes makes the cutter slide over the work. Lowest back gear for large CI but faster for smallish steel and brass - whatever does the job but feels and sounds right.
Hi Len - a great idea using hex steel - I'll look out for some. I must have another go at silver soldering though - I really must try to master it. A rear toolpost is a great idea - I will investigate what is available for the SC4 lathe.
Cheers mate.
Andrew
Sorry I meant Andrew not Peter
maybee you have a look at KOZO HIRAOKAS Book "BUILDING THE NEW SHAY " There are lots of informations how to build models
mfg heinz kriegelstein
Thanks Veronica. Looks very interesting (and expensive ☹️). I might consider buying it if I ever get into making a locomotive.
Cheers
Andrew
Yes its very expensiv but it shows a lot of verry good tips for building models (not only lokomotives ) there are tips vot silversolder also how to get around very complex problems!,
best regards heinz
I'll keep my eyes open for a secondhand one. Thanks
Zeroed not zeroised Peter only the Americans make their own words up grrrrr ,
Hi Ernest - Yeah I was never good at English. I will try to remember that. I'm not great at multitasking either so when it comes to talking, machining and videoing all at the same time, something usually gives.
All the best.
Andrew
I like zeroised. I think we should add it to the dictionary. It describes what you are doing perfectly.