RDWorks Learning Lab 180 Axis Switch Not Working
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- If you own a Chinese laser cutter this little series of videos about me learning how to use the free software provided, may solve the problem of trying to learn from a virtually unreadable manual.
I am nothing to do with RD Works, I am not an instructor and I am no expert. This series will document the essential bits of many hours of trial and error
![[03] Ruida - Using RD Works for the 1st Time](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i0X8bbjV8hM/mqdefault.jpg)
I replaced with limit switch , works better than proximity switch
Another example of why Chinese machines are poorly engineered. Most industrial machine will use NC (Normally Closed) switches and the controller will detect if the switch is Open on startup and if open knows where is a problem with the switch, ie, not connected or broken wire. I use NC switched for all my machine. Emergency Stop switched should also be wired the same. Closed means everything is OK. Open means the switch is engaged or a wire is broken.
Almost every time I have an issue, Here you are with a video explanation. :) My machine decided to trip the back right sensor last night, between jobs. Looking at the diagnostics panel, it shows always lit. Even though it does switch on and off with a piece of metal. I imagine I will be swapping it out tonight after work.
Not the easiest of jobs dragging a new wire through but very necessary.. It is possible to limp along without the switch but for a production machine where you need 100% position confidence, immediate replacment id the only fix.
@SarbarMultimedia So, I got lucky. It was the Y Limit switch, and I did not have to feed it through the dragchain. The wire went straight down into the control box, sonI had to do a little routing through the snap troughs, but the sensor is swapped and everything is working again. about 30 minutes of work. :)
My Y axis is messing up. Instead of going to the bottom of the table it runs into the side of the machine. When we move it to what should be the bottom at 300 it is showing 172. Both LED light come on like on your video. Can you please help?
Hi Shauna
Your problem could be one of many or a combination of faults/settings. This is far too complex to give a simple anwer via this forum. Use the following contact form and I will reply so that we can work off-line to solve your problem.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Best wishes
Russ
Hi very good video Roger. Can you help with my problem on my 100w red chinnese lazer machine.
I Plugged a Rotery into the machine with no success i set the program to engrave glass. the problem is the steeper motors are jamming
when they move up and down no problem going side to side. the 2 sensors are lighting up when touched. Is there something i need to reset
or delete to use without the rotery .please help if you can.
Hi Patrick
This is something a bit out of the ordinary which I think I recognize but is not easily fixed with a few words on youtube. Sadly there is no way to easily communicate so use this link to access a private contact form. I will reply and we can deal with this issue off-line.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Best wishes
Russ
Thanks for that!
2 spare switches, on the way...!
Thank you for this video, i think you figured out the issue I'm having with my Y Axis; I turn it on and when it try to find Y's 0 it bangs of the top axis a few times before assuming it's 0.
I'll check the sensor and try and find a replacement if that is in deed the case.
Thanks again good sir!!!
That's excellent, thanks, Russ. Makes a lot of sense being able to understand seemingly illogical issues!
شكرا جزيلا
I've built a laser using RDC6445G and standard On/Off micro endstop switches. I've connected it to X+ and ground. When I trip the switch the red led comes on, However the axis keeps moving. Can I not use these? Must I use the inductive switches?
Hi Jam5v
The is no difference between mechanical and electronic switches. They both connect the 5vdc signal (that should naturally be on the CN4 terminals ) to gnd. There is a 5vdc supply at terminal 6 to drive an electronic switch if that is what you choose to use. If you press the ZU key on the keypad it will bring up a menu. Select Diagnosis and there is a display that will show you if the controller is seeing the switching taking place. .. It connecting X+to ground is not working then try X- to ground. It depends where your datum is aiming for . If you set the head mechanically in the centre of the gantry and turn your machine on the head will move slowly in one direction towards where it expects to find the datum switch.
Best wishes
Russ
Thank you so much! I replaced the wrong sensor haha.. I’ll replace those soon! Very helpful video:)
I have 3 100w 26x36” work area machines two of them recently started this issue
I’ve run them all 5-8hr days for 3 years so far. Minor issues but this proximity sensor one baffles me.. again thank you for your videos!
Another great video Russ, worth it weight in gold when things go wrong. Thank you.
As always, Thanks much, Russ!
dear sir, my name is Mohammad Hasan. from Bahrain. i'm also working with laser machin. (acrylic cutting, engraving.) I want to learn, how to Maintenance this machine. Can you teach me
Hi Mohammad.
I have spent 4 years or more playing and digging into these machines. Everything I discover or learn is in my videos somewhere.
I have a bullet point index I have created about each video. As a text document you can search for key words and this may help you with your leaning. Add your email address in another comment and I will send you a copy.
Best wishes
Russ
Hi. thank you for your videos that you've posted, Im on around video number 12 that Ive watched over the past couple of day since finding you. I am really new to laser tech so much so I'm still waiting on delivery of my 100w HQ7050R, which im hoping to be a good starting machine. I have learnt more in the 12 videos that you have posted than the 100s of other videos that Ive watched over the past 3 months of research. I just wanted to thank you for the time and effort that you have put into inparting your wealth of knowledge, Where in the country are you?, if you are anywhere near Swindon then I would like to repay you and buy you a beer:)
kindest regards, Steve
Hi Steve
You have a long way to go, and remember that I am just sharing my learning journey and at this stage (4 years ago) I have MUCH to learn. I live near Colchester , so about 3 hours away if you get into real trouble.
Best wishes
Russ
Where is RDWorks Learning Lab 179 ? (Did I miss 1 movie ?)
(Nice movie btw)
Hi Kris
Well spotted. 179 is on hold because of the corona virus in China. It is all about fitting the the new Cloudray head bracket to make C series heads adjustable. Sadly production had been delayed so there is no point in getting hopes raised until the product is available for sale
Best wishes
Russ.
Hi!
Is it still possible to buy your power meter attachment?
Hi Kamil Yes. Just add your disguised email (kamildot742atgmaildotcom) to another comment and I will send you a data pack.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia kamilpuchala2atgmaildotcom
I Sir, I receive a china machine looks really close then your in this video. My problem are with vendor settings. The guy's who give me that machine have no back-up about .rdvset file and ruida rdlc320-a controler are burned. So we are not able to read and make a secure copy of the original vendor setting in the new board. could you just please help me with screen capture of your x and y settings in vendor setting of your machine. I will start with it.
Hi Yoann
What is the new Ruida controller model number? Add your disguised email address to another comment and I will answer and also delete your comment/email address from public view.
Best wishes
Russ
Hello Sir, my controller is an ruida rdlc320-a
@@yoannmainville1
OK so you have a very basic digital controller that looks like a cut down version of my RDC 6442 controller. My guess is that all the same machine control features are in the controller but they have just reduced the cost by dispensing with unnecessary terminations. leds and inputs/outputs.
As I mentioned previously. add another comment with your disguised email address and I can send you some information.
Best wishes
Russ
Where do you download the latest version of RDworks?
Hi jake
You can go to the Ruida website and load their latest released version
www.rd-acs.com go to application software page 11 and there is release 41.
I believe you will get an eve later version at thunderlaser.com (downloads) issue 47?
Not all versions are stable. I am still using issue 38 because I have not yet found any issues with it . You can copy it from my dropbox with
www.dropbox.com/s/8xugiag5alqlp4v/RDWorks%20ruida%20issue%2038.rar?dl=0
Best wishes
Russ
Hi man. Very very helpful video but. In my case after 6 months of pretty much photo engraving my y axis switch went wrong.. not the X that is moving a lot.. very weird.. do you have any suggestions why.. its 4060 c02 chinese laser 80w reci tube. But the interesting also is that the switch is now still working a little bit when I knock it few times sometime it finds the zero. SO I think the problem is inside the switch some physically metal parts are f*cked up because if its the electronic of the switch it would be burned and not working at all... very very weird.. I hope its not the software or controller..
Hi
Not all machines are wired in the same manner as mine but to be fair, the Y axis wiring is usually static so a broken wire is not that likely.. A replacement switch is very cheap so I could not hesitate to replace it if it is inconsistent.. It will not be the controller . As I said in the video, there is only one very short moment when this switch is actually used so if you are experiencing "in-program" issues then it may not be the switch.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia 10 mins ago I checked that switch by your method with a metal thing moving closer and the led light blinks normal everytime the item pass in front. So I think switch looks good but there should be as you say problem in about breaking cable inside. Which I cant see.. I was looking around but the wierdest thing is that I dont see wire for that metal little part that makes connection with the switch. And my question is is there any cable actually for that? Because all I found for this axis is 4 different for the st motor and all others are going for the x axis. Which eveything there is working perfect. Looks like it could be the worst.. Controller
Hi
I am not quite understanding why you would want a wire on the metal part. There will be a cable coming out near the led on the switch. That is the only cable you need. This is a proximity switch which mean its switches electronically when a piece of metal is close enough. There are wires on that piece of metal. Sorry if I am misunderstanding you. Have you checked the start up sequence of LEDs on the controller?. If the system os finding 0,0 correctly you should be able to manually drive the head to the home position with the arrow keys and the keyboard display should read 0,0 with the head in the home position. if there is false switching because of a broken wire the head will stop some way off the home position.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia yes. You are right. I just wached 2 more times the video, also checked the machine and understood the problem probably is broken switch but not! The x axis. Its Y axis. My machine is same Ruida controller and led light as yours. So when I start the machine leds on controller 15,power good, 9 is ok, 3 is on for X and 1 doesnt wanna go. After 25,30 seconds as you say it founds the 0 by itself. Not by knocking on by me.( my mistake) and for this seconds its moving same slow speed as you shows on the video. But again not that axis. The Y, switch cable stay in the metal body of the machine without moving. So does it mean that its probably broken switch or anyrhing else. Thanks
Hi
If the switch RELIABLY illuminates the LED when you present metal to it then is the gap between switch and metal part on the machine is too large. It may be a simple as loosening the switch fixinbg screws and closing the gap. If the switching is NOT reliable when you switch it manually with a piece of metal then you need to replace that switch. As I mention in the video, after lenses, this switch is the most likely part of the machine to fail.
Seems like you are zooming in on the real problem
Best wishes
Russ