I just love your channel. I discovered my passion for film cameras about 2-3 years ago. It just followed naturally from buying vintage lenses for my digital fuji. I mostly shot film now. Go figure 😂 I've learnt to fix old cameras from youtube and service manuals. I truly hope to see more cameras getting fixed. Maybe an Edixa mat? I got 5, and I managed to fix none LOL
Thanks for your comments. I have never bought a Nikon mirror-less camera. I’m older than you are. I bought my first Nikon F in 1970 as a kid. I couldn’t even afford a meter then, forced to learn EV on my own. I bought the F36 motor drive within a year or two. I transitioned to an F3, a stellar film based camera. Having auto exposure was a tremendous enhancement over a Nikon FTn. Lastly, in the film world, I got the F5. It remains one of the best film cameras in the world even today because the of matrix metering and 8 frames per second capability. Its autofocus capability is incredible, particularly with the AF-S lenses. Having Nikons for over Z50 years I have rarely sold off a Nikkor kens. They are optically first rate, with great, robust construction, and evolving lens coatings. I have about 50 Nikkor lenses, from 7.5mm to 1000mm, including my most prized, the infamous 13mm f/5.6 AIS Nikkor. I have only had 2-3 lens failures in all that time. Mostly a few screws will back off and need a wee bit of help at a repair shop. It it is minimal! I’ve carried these things around with me around the world. I used to carry a motorized F3 in a small red and white Playmate cooler in the cockpit with me along with about three lenses. (I used to go to Iceland a lot with the USAF-a wonderful location!). Auto focus is a definite requirement for certain types of photography, like sports and wildlife. But my shooting is more static-landscapes, and such. I can take my time, and set hyperfocal distances on my lenses. I have evolved to Hasselblad for larger negatives (transparencies) and find the Zeiss optics to be first rate! For smaller formats, I have moved onto the Leica SL2S, a very fine mirror-less camera. I use mostly Leica lenses along with adaptors to run certain Nikkors on them. I also have several Leica cameras for film, like the MP, M5 and the run of the old Leicaflex SL bodies. After 50-plus years of photography, I have reached the conclusion that Leica optics are worth the money, and they retain their value. Ditto for Hasselblad’s Zeiss optics. Nikkors lose their value, in general they are a wonderful bargain. For the money, they are first rate, and they are very durable, as I stated earlier. If you chose to buy used Nikkor lenses, do it smartly. There is a small hardcover Red Book by Peter Braczko which lists every model of older Nikon lens down to the serial number ranges! It shows you which have the latest or more modern coatings, and which mounts they have, like AI, AIS, etc. if you are buying them used, go about it smartly. Ditto for Leica and Hasselblad. Buy the Leica Compendium or Hasselblad Compendium to know your lenses. Keep in mind that my virtual abandonment of digital Nikon SLRs is largely due to Nikon not maintaining a repair capability for them. Any of my old or new Leicas can be repaired. Ditto for Hasselblad. My D3 or D3S is no longer reparable by Nikon. Yet, it was a great body. Don’t get into an equipment chase. Spend the money on optics, and not on the bodies. Bodies quickly become obsolete. Lenses resting their value if they are good designs to start with, and for nikon, feature ED glass you are shooting above 100mm. Ditto for Leica. Get the APO lenses when above 90mm. For Zeiss and Hasselblad, invest in the Superachromatic lenses. If you don’t have an eye for composition or lighting, take some classes. Practice is the best solution and encourage others to be critical of your work. Equipment does not solve a talent shortfall.
Have my grandfathers old Asahi Pentax AP that tore a shutter ribbon and I have been trying to take it apart and always got stock at the mirror box now I finally see how to remove it because of this video. Maybe I can repair it now.
I’m so glad to have stumbled upon your channel. These simple videos without the narration are just so satisfying to watch. I’m a new subscriber, looking forward to your future content. I’m interested in your opinions on the various lubricants and adhesives you prefer. I have my favorites but am always open to new ideas. Properly maintained, Spotmatics and similar Asahi Pentax models will indeed outlive us all.
Great video! YOu could try and comment what you are doing, maybe with a voiceover. It would make understanding what happens and the mechanics of the camera a lot easier
What did you put on the screws at 3:50 please? I've tried undoing the equivalent screws on a Miranda C and ended up mangling the screws and still not getting them out.
Can I ask you just one question? What were the plastic parts in the process of disassembling that camera? Also, was the spool plastic? Oh, and when I removed the white gasket from the rewind lever (9:31), I wonder what the consumption of this gasket was. Also, were there parts like fiber other than shutter curtains?
I also don’t know details usage of some parts. I think that white washer is to prevent dirt entering into the body. The shutter curtain roller is also made of plastic I think . The service manual said you shouldn’t apply any lube for plastic part in curtains roller , only apply tiny amount of watch oil into metal shaft and gear assembly.
I can do basic CLAs but never attempted a shutter courtain replacement. Do you have some tips for cleaning leatherette that goes brown from bending? Very clean video and good work!
Leather shining liquid or spray will do most time. Replacing the leather will give you best results. Usually I send the dimensions of the leatherette to local leather craftsman for cut out. Then I just glue those leather or leatherette. Cutting leather also need specific tools and skill if you what best result so I leave it to the professionals.
There is a one easy to make with arduino upload by hiroshootsfilm. I modified the code to work with dual sensor for my test. You can get pretty good result with original one. But if you can use laser diode and laser sensor result will be more accurate. github.com/hiroshootsfilm/shutterspeedtester
Had subscribed for a long time...BUT seeing this 👎 and unsubbd. Titles are too fast to disappear and on mobile or smart tv...impossible to go back n forth. Just magic editing is useless...SORRY 👎👎👎
That level of disassembly is incredible. Great job!
Best restoration video I have ever seen. Congrats!
Top notch service at the hands of an expert!
Bailey & I swear by Pentax legendary build quality & reliability.
I just love your channel. I discovered my passion for film cameras about 2-3 years ago. It just followed naturally from buying vintage lenses for my digital fuji. I mostly shot film now. Go figure 😂 I've learnt to fix old cameras from youtube and service manuals. I truly hope to see more cameras getting fixed. Maybe an Edixa mat? I got 5, and I managed to fix none LOL
Most impressive servicing job, thank you for doing the video and sharing information.
This kind of job is worth well over a thousand dollars, nice job.
Thanks for your comments. I have never bought a Nikon mirror-less camera. I’m older than you are. I bought my first Nikon F in 1970 as a kid. I couldn’t even afford a meter then, forced to learn EV on my own. I bought the F36 motor drive within a year or two. I transitioned to an F3, a stellar film based camera. Having auto exposure was a tremendous enhancement over a Nikon FTn. Lastly, in the film world, I got the F5. It remains one of the best film cameras in the world even today because the of matrix metering and 8 frames per second capability. Its autofocus capability is incredible, particularly with the AF-S lenses. Having Nikons for over Z50 years I have rarely sold off a Nikkor kens. They are optically first rate, with great, robust construction, and evolving lens coatings. I have about 50 Nikkor lenses, from 7.5mm to 1000mm, including my most prized, the infamous 13mm f/5.6 AIS Nikkor. I have only had 2-3 lens failures in all that time. Mostly a few screws will back off and need a wee bit of help at a repair shop. It it is minimal! I’ve carried these things around with me around the world. I used to carry a motorized F3 in a small red and white Playmate cooler in the cockpit with me along with about three lenses. (I used to go to Iceland a lot with the USAF-a wonderful location!). Auto focus is a definite requirement for certain types of photography, like sports and wildlife. But my shooting is more static-landscapes, and such. I can take my time, and set hyperfocal distances on my lenses. I have evolved to Hasselblad for larger negatives (transparencies) and find the Zeiss optics to be first rate! For smaller formats, I have moved onto the Leica SL2S, a very fine mirror-less camera. I use mostly Leica lenses along with adaptors to run certain Nikkors on them. I also have several Leica cameras for film, like the MP, M5 and the run of the old Leicaflex SL bodies. After 50-plus years of photography, I have reached the conclusion that Leica optics are worth the money, and they retain their value. Ditto for Hasselblad’s Zeiss optics. Nikkors lose their value, in general they are a wonderful bargain. For the money, they are first rate, and they are very durable, as I stated earlier. If you chose to buy used Nikkor lenses, do it smartly. There is a small hardcover Red Book by Peter Braczko which lists every model of older Nikon lens down to the serial number ranges! It shows you which have the latest or more modern coatings, and which mounts they have, like AI, AIS, etc. if you are buying them used, go about it smartly. Ditto for Leica and Hasselblad. Buy the Leica Compendium or Hasselblad Compendium to know your lenses. Keep in mind that my virtual abandonment of digital Nikon SLRs is largely due to Nikon not maintaining a repair capability for them. Any of my old or new Leicas can be repaired. Ditto for Hasselblad. My D3 or D3S is no longer reparable by Nikon. Yet, it was a great body. Don’t get into an equipment chase. Spend the money on optics, and not on the bodies. Bodies quickly become obsolete. Lenses resting their value if they are good designs to start with, and for nikon, feature ED glass you are shooting above 100mm. Ditto for Leica. Get the APO lenses when above 90mm. For Zeiss and Hasselblad, invest in the Superachromatic lenses. If you don’t have an eye for composition or lighting, take some classes. Practice is the best solution and encourage others to be critical of your work. Equipment does not solve a talent shortfall.
Have my grandfathers old Asahi Pentax AP that tore a shutter ribbon and I have been trying to take it apart and always got stock at the mirror box now I finally see how to remove it because of this video. Maybe I can repair it now.
I’m so glad to have stumbled upon your channel. These simple videos without the narration are just so satisfying to watch. I’m a new subscriber, looking forward to your future content. I’m interested in your opinions on the various lubricants and adhesives you prefer. I have my favorites but am always open to new ideas. Properly maintained, Spotmatics and similar Asahi Pentax models will indeed outlive us all.
Great! i 've restored my S1a and is just what i need from an SLR.
That´s a wonderful job, thanks for sharing.
Pentax LX version soon?
Not any ordinary person can DIY this . Only a professional technician can do this.
Great video! YOu could try and comment what you are doing, maybe with a voiceover. It would make understanding what happens and the mechanics of the camera a lot easier
There is subtitle in Eng . I am not very good in English . Thanks for advice
amazing ! thx for this
What did you put on the screws at 3:50 please? I've tried undoing the equivalent screws on a Miranda C and ended up mangling the screws and still not getting them out.
It’s just the WD 40. And I leave it for about an hour.
@@VintageResurrection Thank you.
Can I ask you just one question? What were the plastic parts in the process of disassembling that camera? Also, was the spool plastic? Oh, and when I removed the white gasket from the rewind lever (9:31), I wonder what the consumption of this gasket was. Also, were there parts like fiber other than shutter curtains?
I also don’t know details usage of some parts. I think that white washer is to prevent dirt entering into the body. The shutter curtain roller is also made of plastic I think . The service manual said you shouldn’t apply any lube for plastic part in curtains roller , only apply tiny amount of watch oil into metal shaft and gear assembly.
@@VintageResurrection thank you!!
I can do basic CLAs but never attempted a shutter courtain replacement. Do you have some tips for cleaning leatherette that goes brown from bending? Very clean video and good work!
Leather shining liquid or spray will do most time. Replacing the leather will give you best results. Usually I send the dimensions of the leatherette to local leather craftsman for cut out. Then I just glue those leather or leatherette. Cutting leather also need specific tools and skill if you what best result so I leave it to the professionals.
GREAT!
Respect
What kind of glue softener solution do you use?
You can get the glue remover/debonder from the paint shop. I don’t known the chemical properties of that. But it won’t work on every glue I think.
@@VintageResurrection Thank you !!!
How to build the shutter speed tester?
There is a one easy to make with arduino upload by hiroshootsfilm. I modified the code to work with dual sensor for my test. You can get pretty good result with original one. But if you can use laser diode and laser sensor result will be more accurate.
github.com/hiroshootsfilm/shutterspeedtester
The shutter wont last that many generations! Curtain shutters don't really age that well.
Had subscribed for a long time...BUT seeing this 👎 and unsubbd. Titles are too fast to disappear and on mobile or smart tv...impossible to go back n forth. Just magic editing is useless...SORRY 👎👎👎
It’s OK ☺️. That’s your freedom of choices ☺️.