You can fast forward to the specific task below: 1:00 Pre-Setup Steps 3:23 Truss Rod 10:00 Action of Strings 16:30 Radius of Strings 18:50 Nut Height 31:35 Intonation 38:56 Pickup Height
This is absolutely the best and the most comprehensive instructional video on how to set up a bass guitar better than most guitar techs in local music shops. Thank you, Mr. Geoff for being this precise and sharing your vast knowledge freely. Following your video, I setup my Fender J Bass for the first time so it is absolutely perfect in terms of playability and intonation. God Bless you, Sir!
Thanks for the excellent guidance. I bought a Squire Affinity PJ bass because it's a good value for a beginner, but it was a bit hard to play. The strings were rough and really high and there was a BUNCH of extra bow in the neck. New quality strings and your assistance, it's really playing comfortably and sounding great now. Thanks again! You're the best bass setup guide on RUclips.
I didn't know Christoph Waltz was such a great gear tech! 😁All jokes aside, Geoff this was a fantastic instruction! Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
I brought in a 1978 Precision bass with a twisted neck to Geoff. Without even opening the case he said, "I can fix it."He ran it through the Plek and it played perfectly. My bass played like a custom shop bass after SF Guitarworks hooked it up. Geoff and his team are the real deal. Listen to this 👆
By far the most thorough and best explained bass setup video you can find. Great advice all around from a pro tech. The only one thing I would prefer better is using under string gauges for setting the bridge saddles radius. Everything else is spot on
I purchased the tools in the video and I setup my Jazz bass and it plays great! I’m gonna save a lot of money, it’s fun AND rewarding. Really recommend picking up these tools.
Awesome video, did my initial set up on my Squire Affinity Jazz Bass following along with the instruction. The gauges were great, very easy to use and the nut files were the right tool for the job, made it so easy. Everything went by the numbers for me, the action and intonation up and down the neck are dead on, what a difference.
Awesome video. I completely agree with Geoff's method of measuring neck relief on fretting both 12th and 1st fret, instead of fretting at the body joint or the last fret, as opposed to what is recommended by Fender manual and a few other manufacturers and luthiers. It makes a big difference because the most important relief area is within the first half of string length (between 1st and 12th fret), and specifically around 6th or 7th fret, In theory, there's no need for relief after 12th fret, but that's another topic, because it involves playing style. Measuring using the fret at the body joint (which can be 16th or even 20th depending on the bass design), and even worse measuring using the last fret, may lead to a unrealistic neck relief, due to imperfections bumps or hills on the neck/fretboard, or most commonly uneven frets. Another thing to mention is that sometimes that 1st fret might be too tall, especially on acoustic guitars that have gone through a bad fret work, and that also can affect the neck relief measurement. So I've learned to double check the measurements using 2nd and 3rd fret along with 12th, so I can see if frets are levelled under tensions and relief curve is progressing evenly.
@David Watson There are methods of applying heat to the middle of the neck while clamping the ends. More often then not this will remove the curvature of the neck (sometimes it takes several tries). Or you can buy a new neck. The important thing to note is that you need to make small incremental adjustments to the truss rod over time, instead of one big adjustment every few years.
@@thomasdietzman8771 @David Watson - Dan Erlewine has a video on that (search "Dan Erlewine - straightening a bass neck")he puts two blocks of wood on the fingerboard and a sturdy straight edge on top and carefully clamps the neck straight or slightly back bowed. Then tightens the trussrod to keep the position. A little heat and a couple flat washers under the rod nut could help straighten it, but ultimately some necks just won't adjust enough. Then it's either lower tension strings or change the neck.
Ich sah erst dieses Video und kaufte dann das Tool. Exzellenter Lehrer und tolles Werkzeug. Ich habe Shortcales (Höfner Violin Shorty Bass, Ibanez Mikro und den kleinen Blackstar Carry On Bass) damit eingerichtet. Sie alle haben nun einen unglaublich viel besseren Klang. Und die Bespielbarkeit ist auch viel einfacher geworden. Danke für dieses Video 🙏
Thank you for the tutorial. I am a new bassist and found your starting kit bundle a great value to have everything I need and this walkthrough makes me feel confident in setting up my basses.
Awesome videos you do. I think a lot of people out there would love love to see you do a complete video on how to set up a Hofner 500/1 bass. Neck relief, action, bridge position, intonation and how to move the little fret wires on the bridge. Just as complete as you’ve done with the P bass,Strat and Tele. I’m really hoping you’d consider this. Again thanks for your videos.
Your videos and tools are fantastic. I just picked up a KISS kit as well as your diamond files and have never been happier with my setups. P-Bass, Strats, Tele's and even a cheap IYV Les Paul copy I picked up on Amazon. Plays like a $3k guitar. Thank you so much!
I have never had to remove the neck from my '79 USA P Bass to adjust the truss rod. I remove the tort pick/control plate screws and nudge it toward the bridge a bit for easier access to the adjustment nut and have never had any problems with it. Great Video on the setup, nonetheless.
Without question the most detailed, informative & coherent set of instructions for P-bass set up. It seems odd that not all truss rods can be adjusted from the head stock. Other than the obvious disadvantages, are there any advantages to having the truss rod adjustment at the body end?
This was so helpful!! Thank you music nomad!! I’m definitely getting all them tools! I’m tired of paying $80 and waiting two weeks! I can do a lot of this but it’s all by feel not actual measurements and I have my first bass with a headstock truss rod adjuster and you showed my what way to turn it thanks again!!
Boughy my 6 pc kit today at Sweetwater except for the files for the nut. Nxt i guess... Def looking forward to doing the set up myself... Thanks for the long informative vid been looking for something like this for a long time. Wish me luck folks!!
I am not too sure how accurate the radius gauge would be for measuring string radius since the diameter of the strings are different. If all strings we all the same size then that may work but that is not the case in this situation. I have tried that method but prefer to use a a digital vernier caliper and measure from the top of a fret to the bottom of each string. When I put the desired measurement in the display, the rod at the end of the caliper moves outwards. I put the rod on the top of the fret (Fender uses the 17th fret for Electric and Bass guitars and 14th fret for acoustics) and adjust until the bottom of the string lines up with the bottom of the vernier. That said, your video was very informative.
Our method is designed to match the radius of the last fret with the bridge. These measurements are the most commonly used. For more information on how to use the gauges, email us at tech@.
Awesome, I had been adjusting the neck truss rod by touch and Feel, but I know now ,what are the other steps to follow... The only question, I have is why did he measure the feel of the neck relief at the 6th fret? I see Others do it at 7 & 8 Frets...
This is such a good instructional video. I have a question. On the video for truss rod neck relief you press down on the 12 fret and use a feeler gauge on 6th. Some instructions from makers say last fret or 17th. Does where you press make a difference? If so why the 12th fret?
We respect the different ways manufacturers and repair techs approach neck relief. With Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell along with other top repair techs we developed our KISS method using the 1st and 12th fret and measuring at the 6th fret to accommodate most all guitars using a common measurement. The relief of the neck at the 6th fret is in the middle of the span between the 1st and 12th fret.
Incredibly well done tutorial...thank you! I've been playing guitar for more than 40 years and have always shied away from doing my own set-ups. This tutorial might just give me the confidence to tackle it. Question: For a short scale bass (Fender Mustang), would anything in this process be different? Thank you!
So glad to hear this video has given you the confidence to do your own setup. You will want to follow the same steps in the P-Bass video. these are great guidelines that can always be dialed in closer to your playing style
We do not have a specific classical guitar video at this time. You can follow the Acoustic Guitar setup video as it is similar but there are some difference when it comes to the truss rod and the radius. Our instructional booklet does give the steps and recommend specs on the proper setup for a classical but at this time we do not have that specific video. here is the video for the acoustic guitar setup to check out ruclips.net/video/un7JPdb5GAg/видео.html you can also reach out to our tech if you have further classical guitar setup questions tech@musicnomad.com
First of all, thank you for the very informative video. However, I have a question. How is the Truss Rod set up in short scale bass? Are these exactly the same rules as with normal bass? "008 at the twelfth fret? All the best.
Great video. One comment on the intonation section: Your comment (32:10) about the reason for the need to compensate (increased string tension as the string is fretted), as I understand it, is only part of the story. The other part of the story is that the effective point of suspension/vibration (in distance from the point of contact with the saddle) increases as the stiffness of the string increases (this is why the B string on an acoustic guitar requires a greater compensation than the wound G string--the core of the G is smaller than the B). In other words, the bigger the string core, the farther from the saddle the string actually begins vibrating. Does that seem right?
Very nice setup video! Iam just curious if you plan 5 strings setup video maybe, or bass with 2 pickups. What is your advice for pickups height for basses with 2 pickups?
Because of the variations of pickups and what type of bass it is, we asked you email our Guitar Tech at tech@musicnomad.com so our guitar tech can get into all the details with you.
Great video with 2 questions before I carve up my nut. (1) I bought a new tusq nut and I am way out of spec and need to deepen the slot so shouldn't the NUT be the first thing to get in order? (2) on the nut feeler gauge it says E,A bass, so what does that actually mean.....I get the low E makes sense but what about ADG? how do I know how deep to file (I guess) the D and G?
Nice tutorial. I´ve been ajusting my basses without gauges for 30 years just by feeling and listening, but no doubt gauges helps in the beginning. I have one question though...you ajusted the the neck and string height without loosening the strings. Doesn´t that add additional wear on the ajustment screws? I always loosen the strings before using the screws, that way your gear will last longer I was told.
The KISS method is a linear process. It is very important to go through the proper flow in the right order with your bass in tune during the KEEP IT SIMPLE method. Changing your strings and tuning your instrument are part of the pre-setup steps. Loosening the strings prior to making these adjustments takes off the regular tension that is on the instrument. This can cause inaccurate adjustments. Email tech@musicnomad.com for more information.
I’ve followed all the steps in the video and noticed that the neck at headstock is bending upwards quite a bit, truss rod can’t go any further to right is this ok or any advice cheers
question:: if my bass is in a lower tuning, e.g. d-standard (d-g-c-f) would that effect the way i would setup my bass? thanks in advance and thanks for this great video! regards from vienna, austria!
I measured my bass and have it set correctly, but when looking down the fret board from the bottom of the bass, the neck still looks like it has some dipping in the middle of the fret board so concave or up-bow. Any idea whats going on there? Should I keep adjusting until its straight?
Great video! I was just wondering: you say you are fretting the 12th fret and press down at the 13th fret. Which one shall I fret aka where should I press down the string to set upt the neck relief? Thanks
Pretty much a noob here, so probably a noob question: I own a Sire Marcus Miller M5, so 5 string. If I want to set-up my bass accordingly this tutorial, Should I Swap all stepss regarding the E-string for the B-string? and use the same gauges and string-spaces, but applied on the B-string? Is there even a 5-string kit that I could order? I'm from the Netherlands, by the way, so if you have a proper link to such a kit I could visit, or even a setup-video, that would be much appreciated.
On a 5 string bass you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is the most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labelled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate. You can check out our FAQs for MN609 and this will help give you more information. Feel free to also email tech@musicnomad.com for additional help. In the Netherlands our distributor is Mafico. Their website will provide you information with where to buy the products in the Netherlands. www.mafico.com www.musicnomadcare.com/FAQS/MN609-FAQs/
Mr. Geoff Luttrell, I purchased the Music nomad set up kit and just finished my G&L JB-2 Bass that was not set up well from the store to begin with. Although I'm confident in my skills I am only able to get the bass in a medium high action. With the E and G saddles bottomed out on the bridge I'm at .10 (E) and .090 (G). The (E) string nut channel has light touch & I can bring it down to get a .095 at the 12th fret. The (G) already has a slight touch. The radius is 12 Inch and I have all strings aligned and the intonation set. So my question is what can I do to get the action down to a low action? Id appreciate some help on this as I struggle with an high action. TIA Vinny. Great instruction video !
Have you checked your neck relief? Too much relief in your neck would make higher action. Can you email our guitar tech your specific question and needs so he can help you further. tech@musicnomad.com
@@MusicNomadCare it was very ( large under bow) concave I ( counter clock-wised truss rod) straightened it so it’s less concave now, but I thought the straightest you can obtain the better? No concave or convex?
Its best you email our guitar tech all the information you're experiencing so he can better troubleshoot your situation. the email is tech@musicnomad.com
On a 5 string bass you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labeled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate.
The KISS method is a linear process and the nut slot is the last step in the process. All the steps before (i.e. string height) is address and adjust based off a fix point so when you address your nut slots it does not affect your string height at the bridge.
Thanks so much for this video. I did my set-up last night using the video and the basic Music Nomad kit and most everything went well except for one issue, which prompts this question: does the action height of strings have an impact on the accuracy of the nut height feeler gauges used on the first fret? I set up my bass with medium action per the specifications on the Music Nomad metal card, and the E string in particular shows a bit of a gap when using the nut height feeler gauge. I am wondering if that is because of the medium action height, or does action height not matter for this measurement? I had this bass set up about a year ago by a professional luthier, who told me he had filed the nut slot for the E string, but I am now wondering if he did not do an adequate job (or if it is a function of my action height). I should add that I did not attempt to file the nut last night, and I am using the same exact strings (I needed to set up the bass again because I shielded the bass and replaced the pots). Thanks!
We just want to make sure your went through the proper flow of the KISS method, this is very important as it is a linear process so the previous steps doesn't affect your next step measurement. If you did go through the proper flow and your E string has a gap between the string and the 1st fret you will need to lower your nut slot. For more clarification or questions email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
We respect the different ways manufacturers and repair techs approach neck relief. With Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell along with other top repair techs we developed our KISS method using the 1st and 12th fret and measuring at the 6th fret to accommodate most all guitars using a common measurement. The relief of the neck at the 6th fret is in the middle of the span between the 1st and 12th fret.
well its all subjective, i feel more comfortable with the action low without buzzing and dont care too much if the radious is perfect. For example D generally buzzes less than G so its lower than G, th E thats buzzes less than the low B is lower than the B, so the radious is completely of, but is more comfy
Silly question, but if setting up a fretless bass, the truss rod gauge, nut gauge, string height etc would just measure from the fingerboard rather than the fret?
If the saddles are set to follow the fretboard radius with a Fender Am Deluxe/Ultra which includes a (flat) bridge pickup - how do you reconcile the pickup height between the split neck pickup and the flat bridge pickup? Won't the A & D be more quiet in bridge position? Or is it not enough to matter?
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I have a p bass as well and this time my D and G saddles are almost the same height after Intonation with my Peterson tuner. Do you think this is common or maybe a faulty string? Thank you 😊
Intonation is moving the saddles forward and backwards. Radius and String Action are the height of your saddle. Is your question about Intonation or Radius/String Height?
@@MusicNomadCare Sorry for my English... I was referring to the length of the saddles of my D and G strings. Intonation is perfect but these 2 saddles have almost the same length now. It seems to me that when the intonation on a guitar or Bass is correct ,the bridge saddles are always shaped in a certain shape( lower to higher from the Low E to High E String) or (E to G String).
The saddles do not have to be in a certain configuration to achieve intonation. The general pattern of compensation is low E being longer and High E being shorter. Having 2 strings that each intonate but have close to the same saddle length is fine. Make sure you are using a good strobe tuner to be accurate.
Great Video, would love to buy this set! Sadly, it's quite a bit overpriced in Germany. It says $59,99 on the website which translates to 53,20€, but instead it costs 90,43€, which is insane!
In the flow, string height comes before nut height. The measurements we have are based on using the pick capo at the first fret. Since the nut has not been addressed yet you would be using a height reference point that could be off. The first fret is a fixed height to adjust from.
The nut height measurement will not change due to the string size you're using. Regarding the nut files to use for your strings the files should be the same size as the string, up to no more than .003" - .004" larger than the string. Its important to address your truss rod and string action before you do any nut work. Its important to flow the KISS flow for the setup
I have read that you should only turn truss rod nut 1/4 turn at a time then Wait 24 hours, Could you give me your professional advise on how far you can tighten the truss rod the first time 1/2 or ????
We realize and respect there are many different opinions when it comes to setting up your bass. in the KISS setup you will see Geoff in the video adjust his truss rod as much as needed for the proper relief in the neck.
Thanks for the video. One question, is it ok to install shorter strings on a long scale bass? The right size gauge goes an inch over the nut and then the string starts to go thiner. I installed it, it plays ok, but later noticed that I could have bought long scale strings ... could I have any issues along the way?
What about for 5 string bass? Do we use the B string instead of the E still use the same numbers like .008 for the truss rod and .085 for the string height?
For the truss rod measurement on your 5 string bass we suggest you start by using .010". The most common String Action Height for a Low-Medium action on the bass side (or low string) that will make your bass play great would be .090” or 2.25mm on the 5th string.
Hello,which wrench of truss rod is best for my fender cv 70s bass? 3/16 is too big obviously, and 4mm is a little bit loose , it almost makes me crazy😢 thanks
Thank you! Some say because of "the amount of String tension On the Neck" you should loosen the Strings before adjusting the Truss rod...that confused me... Greetings from Germany!
It will depend on how many uneven frets the guitar has. Can you contact us at tech@musicnomad.com, and we can discuss your instrument's specific needs?
To find the radius for your bass you can go to our Fretboard Radius Finder. Here is the link, www.musicnomadcare.com/How-To-Advice/Setup-Hub/Fretboard-Radius-Finder/ or measure your fretboard radius with our radius gauges at the last fret with the strings off to determine the radius. Email tech@musicnomad.com for more information.
If he were playing a note (string suspended between the bridge and the fret) It would be the 13th fret, or an F… But here he is suspending the string between the fret and the saddle. So it’s the twelfth fret that is terminating that length.
We recognize there are different way to setup a guitar. In the KISS method the lowest string is the most common reference point to adjust the truss rod for proper relief. The low E string needs the most clearance.
I'm new to this can anyone help. At the Truss rod section when he uses the gauge between the neck and the string should it have a little bit of resistance but still go in easily or no resistance? Thanks in advance
You want a light touch between the string and the gauge . If the gauge pushes the string up you do not have enough relief, if there is a gap between the string and gauge there is to much relief.
When he is making his adjustment to the truss rod you will see he needs to take relief away by tightening his truss rod and if you look closely you will see he turns his wrench towards his body which is clockwise to tighten the truss rod.
@@MusicNomadCare But if you're looking at it from the point of view of bridge to neck he's turning it counter clockwise. I just mention this because though, sure, we can see definitely which way he's turning it, and we know he means from the point of view of looking down the neck from the headstock, a lot of books, guides and explanations never tell you from which perspective to look. Depending of which way you look the clockwise/ counter clockwise perspective will be reversed.
You need to turn the nut clockwise to tighten the truss rod and counter clockwise to put relief in the neck no matter how you look at it the nut needs to turn clockwise to tighten your truss rod.
Righty tighty lefty loosey 😉 It doesnt maker which way you turn the wrench from the postion your in, clockwise is tighting the nut which is taking away relief in the neck and counter clockwise is loosing the nut and adding relief in the neck.
Our Truss Rod and Nut Height gauges are label to specific instrument and string. Our String Action Gauges does come in metric, with our gauges, tool sets and the KISS method it will cover all your setup needs
You would follow the same setup process as the 4-string P-Bass, but on a 5-string, you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is the most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labeled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate. For string action, the most common String Action Height for a Low-Medium action on the bass side (or low string) that will make your bass play great would be 0.90" or 2.24mm on the 5th or 6th string. You can also reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com to discuss the needs of your specific instrument. Thank you.
You can fast forward to the specific task below:
1:00 Pre-Setup Steps
3:23 Truss Rod
10:00 Action of Strings
16:30 Radius of Strings
18:50 Nut Height
31:35 Intonation
38:56 Pickup Height
It's one thing to be a pro at setting up a guitar. It's another to be a great teacher to others. This guy is both.
Well said!
Experienced craftsmanship, a teaching personality and an apprenticeship attitude in students.
Lessons throughout life.
GREAT comment
This is absolutely the best and the most comprehensive instructional video on how to set up a bass guitar better than most guitar techs in local music shops. Thank you, Mr. Geoff
for being this precise and sharing your vast knowledge freely. Following your video, I setup my Fender J Bass for the first time so it is absolutely perfect in terms of playability and intonation. God Bless you, Sir!
Wow gotta say this is probably one of the best and most comprehensive videos out there, thanks!
Thanks for the excellent guidance. I bought a Squire Affinity PJ bass because it's a good value for a beginner, but it was a bit hard to play. The strings were rough and really high and there was a BUNCH of extra bow in the neck. New quality strings and your assistance, it's really playing comfortably and sounding great now. Thanks again! You're the best bass setup guide on RUclips.
I didn't know Christoph Waltz was such a great gear tech! 😁All jokes aside, Geoff this was a fantastic instruction! Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
This is the best video about how to setup a P. Bass. Thank you so much.
I brought in a 1978 Precision bass with a twisted neck to Geoff. Without even opening the case he said, "I can fix it."He ran it through the Plek and it played perfectly. My bass played like a custom shop bass after SF Guitarworks hooked it up. Geoff and his team are the real deal. Listen to this 👆
By far the most thorough and best explained bass setup video you can find. Great advice all around from a pro tech. The only one thing I would prefer better is using under string gauges for setting the bridge saddles radius. Everything else is spot on
I purchased the tools in the video and I setup my Jazz bass and it plays great! I’m gonna save a lot of money, it’s fun AND rewarding. Really recommend picking up these tools.
Awesome video, did my initial set up on my Squire Affinity Jazz Bass following along with the instruction. The gauges were great, very easy to use and the nut files were the right tool for the job, made it so easy. Everything went by the numbers for me, the action and intonation up and down the neck are dead on, what a difference.
One of the absolute best setup videos I've seen. Only took me 17 other videos to get here.
Awesome video. I completely agree with Geoff's method of measuring neck relief on fretting both 12th and 1st fret, instead of fretting at the body joint or the last fret, as opposed to what is recommended by Fender manual and a few other manufacturers and luthiers. It makes a big difference because the most important relief area is within the first half of string length (between 1st and 12th fret), and specifically around 6th or 7th fret, In theory, there's no need for relief after 12th fret, but that's another topic, because it involves playing style. Measuring using the fret at the body joint (which can be 16th or even 20th depending on the bass design), and even worse measuring using the last fret, may lead to a unrealistic neck relief, due to imperfections bumps or hills on the neck/fretboard, or most commonly uneven frets. Another thing to mention is that sometimes that 1st fret might be too tall, especially on acoustic guitars that have gone through a bad fret work, and that also can affect the neck relief measurement. So I've learned to double check the measurements using 2nd and 3rd fret along with 12th, so I can see if frets are levelled under tensions and relief curve is progressing evenly.
@David Watson washers?
@David Watson Buy a new neck.
@David Watson There are methods of applying heat to the middle of the neck while clamping the ends. More often then not this will remove the curvature of the neck (sometimes it takes several tries).
Or you can buy a new neck.
The important thing to note is that you need to make small incremental adjustments to the truss rod over time, instead of one big adjustment every few years.
@David Watson Same dilema here.
@@thomasdietzman8771 @David Watson - Dan Erlewine has a video on that (search "Dan Erlewine - straightening a bass neck")he puts two blocks of wood on the fingerboard and a sturdy straight edge on top and carefully clamps the neck straight or slightly back bowed. Then tightens the trussrod to keep the position. A little heat and a couple flat washers under the rod nut could help straighten it, but ultimately some necks just won't adjust enough. Then it's either lower tension strings or change the neck.
I suspect that's the best lesson I ever had in my bass life.
Best set-up video EVER! Clear, precise and thorough.
Very articulate and comprehensive using specs as a basis and playability as the final arbiter - great tutorial.
Ich sah erst dieses Video und kaufte dann das Tool. Exzellenter Lehrer und tolles Werkzeug. Ich habe Shortcales (Höfner Violin Shorty Bass, Ibanez Mikro und den kleinen Blackstar Carry On Bass) damit eingerichtet. Sie alle haben nun einen unglaublich viel besseren Klang. Und die Bespielbarkeit ist auch viel einfacher geworden. Danke für dieses Video 🙏
Thank you for the tutorial. I am a new bassist and found your starting kit bundle a great value to have everything I need and this walkthrough makes me feel confident in setting up my basses.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for all your support
Thank you sir i have a 5string and im new to adjusting guitars and bass so your video is vital information to me. Cheers 🍻
Awesome videos you do. I think a lot of people out there would love love to see you do a complete video on how to set up a Hofner 500/1 bass.
Neck relief, action, bridge position, intonation and how to move the little fret wires on the bridge. Just as complete as you’ve done with the P bass,Strat and Tele.
I’m really hoping you’d consider this. Again thanks for your videos.
Your videos and tools are fantastic. I just picked up a KISS kit as well as your diamond files and have never been happier with my setups. P-Bass, Strats, Tele's and even a cheap IYV Les Paul copy I picked up on Amazon. Plays like a $3k guitar. Thank you so much!
I have never had to remove the neck from my '79 USA P Bass to adjust the truss rod. I remove the tort pick/control plate screws and nudge it toward the bridge a bit for easier access to the adjustment nut and have never had any problems with it. Great Video on the setup, nonetheless.
This is actually such a great and in depth set up tutorial, thanks Geoff !!
Glad it was helpful!
How I’ve been looking for a video like this - excellent.
Glad it was helpful!
I was waiting for this tools from you ! Now I´ll have my all musicnomad setup kit :D
Very good instructor!
Thanks for the helpful video!
this video is right on the money
Great video, great teacher. Thanks Geoff!
i would really like to see a KISS guide for the epiphone thunderbird bass :)
Without question the most detailed, informative & coherent set of instructions for P-bass set up. It seems odd that not all truss rods can be adjusted from the head stock. Other than the obvious disadvantages, are there any advantages to having the truss rod adjustment at the body end?
Guitar makers manufacturers use both ways in their designs. It does not matter where you adjust the truss rod from, the principle is the same.
👍👍👍💯😀
Thanks you so much for your kindly upload these videos on RUclips channel and may I request you to upload fully setup for Ibanez Bass guitars.
This was so helpful!! Thank you music nomad!! I’m definitely getting all them tools! I’m tired of paying $80 and waiting two weeks! I can do a lot of this but it’s all by feel not actual measurements and I have my first bass with a headstock truss rod adjuster and you showed my what way to turn it thanks again!!
Glad it was helpful!
@@MusicNomadCare 🙏🙏
Boughy my 6 pc kit today at Sweetwater except for the files for the nut. Nxt i guess... Def looking forward to doing the set up myself... Thanks for the long informative vid been looking for something like this for a long time. Wish me luck folks!!
How did it go?. I just got mine.
So helpful and thorough - very much appreciated!
I am not too sure how accurate the radius gauge would be for measuring string radius since the diameter of the strings are different. If all strings we all the same size then that may work but that is not the case in this situation. I have tried that method but prefer to use a a digital vernier caliper and measure from the top of a fret to the bottom of each string. When I put the desired measurement in the display, the rod at the end of the caliper moves outwards. I put the rod on the top of the fret (Fender uses the 17th fret for Electric and Bass guitars and 14th fret for acoustics) and adjust until the bottom of the string lines up with the bottom of the vernier. That said, your video was very informative.
Our method is designed to match the radius of the last fret with the bridge. These measurements are the most commonly used. For more information on how to use the gauges, email us at tech@.
@@MusicNomadCare
Your kit should include
Under string radius gauges , Also you didn't show how to identify the radius.
@@MusicNomadCare under the string is actually the proper way. Over the string is wrong. The bottom of the string hits the fretboard, not the top.
Great Job Geoff ! 👌👍
If the truss rod is adjusted at the heal, I carefully machine the pickguard, so I get access. Taking the neck off is not necessary then.
Thank you for the very informative video.
Great video on p bass set up,actually learned a few new things,also,get those nails did bro!
Awesome, I had been adjusting the neck truss rod by touch and Feel, but I know now ,what are the other steps to follow...
The only question, I have is why did he measure the feel of the neck relief at the 6th fret?
I see Others do it at 7 & 8 Frets...
Thank you kindly for making this video and for your clear instructions!
I wish you all would give guidance on a compound radius neck.
I’m a bit confused about how to adjust the string action.
MusicNomad is simply the best. I have all their tools.
This is such a good instructional video. I have a question. On the video for truss rod neck relief you press down on the 12 fret and use a feeler gauge on 6th. Some instructions from makers say last fret or 17th. Does where you press make a difference? If so why the 12th fret?
We respect the different ways manufacturers and repair techs approach neck relief. With Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell along with other top repair techs we developed our KISS method using the 1st and 12th fret and measuring at the 6th fret to accommodate most all guitars using a common measurement. The relief of the neck at the 6th fret is in the middle of the span between the 1st and 12th fret.
Incredibly well done tutorial...thank you! I've been playing guitar for more than 40 years and have always shied away from doing my own set-ups. This tutorial might just give me the confidence to tackle it. Question: For a short scale bass (Fender Mustang), would anything in this process be different? Thank you!
So glad to hear this video has given you the confidence to do your own setup. You will want to follow the same steps in the P-Bass video. these are great guidelines that can always be dialed in closer to your playing style
Excellent video. 👌
Any plans to do a classical guitar setup video?
We do not have a specific classical guitar video at this time. You can follow the Acoustic Guitar setup video as it is similar but there are some difference when it comes to the truss rod and the radius. Our instructional booklet does give the steps and recommend specs on the proper setup for a classical but at this time we do not have that specific video.
here is the video for the acoustic guitar setup to check out ruclips.net/video/un7JPdb5GAg/видео.html
you can also reach out to our tech if you have further classical guitar setup questions tech@musicnomad.com
First of all, thank you for the very informative video. However, I have a question. How is the Truss Rod set up in short scale bass? Are these exactly the same rules as with normal bass? "008 at the twelfth fret? All the best.
Yes a short scale bass will flow the same KISS setup process and common measurements as a normal bass
@@MusicNomadCare Thanks for the answer. I learned a lot thanks to You. I bow my head.
Great video. I just got a p bass yesterday and it needs a little love, gonna try and set it up tomorrow using this video as a guide.
Rock on!
Great video. One comment on the intonation section: Your comment (32:10) about the reason for the need to compensate (increased string tension as the string is fretted), as I understand it, is only part of the story. The other part of the story is that the effective point of suspension/vibration (in distance from the point of contact with the saddle) increases as the stiffness of the string increases (this is why the B string on an acoustic guitar requires a greater compensation than the wound G string--the core of the G is smaller than the B). In other words, the bigger the string core, the farther from the saddle the string actually begins vibrating. Does that seem right?
Email tech@musicnomad.com for more information.
Love it. Thank you so much ❤️
awesome video and tool kits!
Very nice setup video! Iam just curious if you plan 5 strings setup video maybe, or bass with 2 pickups. What is your advice for pickups height for basses with 2 pickups?
Because of the variations of pickups and what type of bass it is, we asked you email our Guitar Tech at tech@musicnomad.com so our guitar tech can get into all the details with you.
This is a great tutorial.. Thank you.. But one question remains.. How do i create a character sound?
@chris storrier thnxxx
Fantastic tutorial!!
Its also importen to loosen the strings when u tighten the trussrod aswell
The guy is not joking at 4:25! I was literally just cleaning a set of way too many, way(!) too greasy feeler gauges while the video was playing. 😅
Great video with 2 questions before I carve up my nut. (1) I bought a new tusq nut and I am way out of spec and need to deepen the slot so shouldn't the NUT be the first thing to get in order? (2) on the nut feeler gauge it says E,A bass, so what does that actually mean.....I get the low E makes sense but what about ADG? how do I know how deep to file (I guess) the D and G?
Hi, Thank you for reaching out! If you email tech@musicnomad.com, our in-house tech will be able to answer your questions. Thanks!
Nice tutorial. I´ve been ajusting my basses without gauges for 30 years just by feeling and listening, but no doubt gauges helps in the beginning. I have one question though...you ajusted the the neck and string height without loosening the strings. Doesn´t that add additional wear on the ajustment screws? I always loosen the strings before using the screws, that way your gear will last longer I was told.
The KISS method is a linear process. It is very important to go through the proper flow in the right order with your bass in tune during the KEEP IT SIMPLE method. Changing your strings and tuning your instrument are part of the pre-setup steps. Loosening the strings prior to making these adjustments takes off the regular tension that is on the instrument. This can cause inaccurate adjustments. Email tech@musicnomad.com for more information.
Great detail
Thanks
I’ve followed all the steps in the video and noticed that the neck at headstock is bending upwards quite a bit, truss rod can’t go any further to right is this ok or any advice cheers
Thank you for reaching out. Can you email us at tech@musicnomad.com to further discuss your instrument's specific needs? Thank you.
I suppose that nut adjustment presumes that there is no significant wear to the first fret. Otherwise, very clear.
question:: if my bass is in a lower tuning, e.g. d-standard (d-g-c-f) would that effect the way i would setup my bass?
thanks in advance and thanks for this great video!
regards from vienna, austria!
Please email tech@musicnomad.com to help with your specific question.
Please email tech@musicnomad.com to help with the specific question for your instrument.
I measured my bass and have it set correctly, but when looking down the fret board from the bottom of the bass, the neck still looks like it has some dipping in the middle of the fret board so concave or up-bow. Any idea whats going on there? Should I keep adjusting until its straight?
Great video! I was just wondering: you say you are fretting the 12th fret and press down at the 13th fret. Which one shall I fret aka where should I press down the string to set upt the neck relief? Thanks
He is pushing down right behind the 12th fret so its being fretted at the 12 fret.
@@MusicNomadCare I see, thanks for the clarification. Just ordered your Truss Rod Gauge and am looking forward setting up my bass 🙂
Pretty much a noob here, so probably a noob question: I own a Sire Marcus Miller M5, so 5 string. If I want to set-up my bass accordingly this tutorial, Should I Swap all stepss regarding the E-string for the B-string? and use the same gauges and string-spaces, but applied on the B-string? Is there even a 5-string kit that I could order? I'm from the Netherlands, by the way, so if you have a proper link to such a kit I could visit, or even a setup-video, that would be much appreciated.
On a 5 string bass you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is the most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labelled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate. You can check out our FAQs for MN609 and this will help give you more information. Feel free to also email tech@musicnomad.com for additional help. In the Netherlands our distributor is Mafico. Their website will provide you information with where to buy the products in the Netherlands.
www.mafico.com
www.musicnomadcare.com/FAQS/MN609-FAQs/
Thanks for the great video! Can you tell the the same measurements of string heights in 64th? ❤️
We have a conversion chart right on the string action action gauge. We give you conversion for 64th.
Mr. Geoff Luttrell, I purchased the Music nomad set up kit and just finished my G&L JB-2 Bass that was not set up well from the store to begin with. Although I'm confident in my skills I am only able to get the bass in a medium high action. With the E and G saddles bottomed out on the bridge I'm at .10 (E) and .090 (G). The (E) string nut channel has light touch & I can bring it down to get a .095 at the 12th fret. The (G) already has a slight touch. The radius is 12 Inch and I have all strings aligned and the intonation set. So my question is what can I do to get the action down to a low action? Id appreciate some help on this as I struggle with an high action. TIA Vinny. Great instruction video !
Have you checked your neck relief? Too much relief in your neck would make higher action. Can you email our guitar tech your specific question and needs so he can help you further. tech@musicnomad.com
@@MusicNomadCare it was very ( large under bow) concave I ( counter clock-wised truss rod) straightened it so it’s less concave now, but I thought the straightest you can obtain the better? No concave or convex?
Its best you email our guitar tech all the information you're experiencing so he can better troubleshoot your situation. the email is tech@musicnomad.com
Thanks! Great video!
what do yall reccomend for feeler clearance for a 5 string the low B string? still .008?
On a 5 string bass you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labeled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate.
Doesn't filing the nut down alter the string height?
The KISS method is a linear process and the nut slot is the last step in the process. All the steps before (i.e. string height) is address and adjust based off a fix point so when you address your nut slots it does not affect your string height at the bridge.
Thanks so much for this video. I did my set-up last night using the video and the basic Music Nomad kit and most everything went well except for one issue, which prompts this question: does the action height of strings have an impact on the accuracy of the nut height feeler gauges used on the first fret? I set up my bass with medium action per the specifications on the Music Nomad metal card, and the E string in particular shows a bit of a gap when using the nut height feeler gauge. I am wondering if that is because of the medium action height, or does action height not matter for this measurement? I had this bass set up about a year ago by a professional luthier, who told me he had filed the nut slot for the E string, but I am now wondering if he did not do an adequate job (or if it is a function of my action height). I should add that I did not attempt to file the nut last night, and I am using the same exact strings (I needed to set up the bass again because I shielded the bass and replaced the pots). Thanks!
We just want to make sure your went through the proper flow of the KISS method, this is very important as it is a linear process so the previous steps doesn't affect your next step measurement. If you did go through the proper flow and your E string has a gap between the string and the 1st fret you will need to lower your nut slot. For more clarification or questions email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
New Sub to your Club.😉
Awesome vid! thanks! new sub here! is it the same for fender Jazz bass? Thanks
Yes, it is!
I thought you were supposed to press the fret that meets at the body when doing the truss rod adjustment and measure at the 8th fret?
We respect the different ways manufacturers and repair techs approach neck relief. With Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell along with other top repair techs we developed our KISS method using the 1st and 12th fret and measuring at the 6th fret to accommodate most all guitars using a common measurement. The relief of the neck at the 6th fret is in the middle of the span between the 1st and 12th fret.
well its all subjective, i feel more comfortable with the action low without buzzing and dont care too much if the radious is perfect. For example D generally buzzes less than G so its lower than G, th E thats buzzes less than the low B is lower than the B, so the radious is completely of, but is more comfy
Silly question, but if setting up a fretless bass, the truss rod gauge, nut gauge, string height etc would just measure from the fingerboard rather than the fret?
You will follow the KISS method the same step by step, and measure from the fingerboard rather than the fret.
If the saddles are set to follow the fretboard radius with a Fender Am Deluxe/Ultra which includes a (flat) bridge pickup - how do you reconcile the pickup height between the split neck pickup and the flat bridge pickup? Won't the A & D be more quiet in bridge position? Or is it not enough to matter?
Its not enough to matter, you will want to use our recommended pickup heights and then you can dial it in from there.
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I have a p bass as well and this time my D and G saddles are almost the same height after Intonation with my Peterson tuner. Do you think this is common or maybe a faulty string? Thank you 😊
Intonation is moving the saddles forward and backwards. Radius and String Action are the height of your saddle. Is your question about Intonation or Radius/String Height?
@@MusicNomadCare Sorry for my English... I was referring to the length of the saddles of my D and G strings. Intonation is perfect but these 2 saddles have almost the same length now. It seems to me that when the intonation on a guitar or Bass is correct ,the bridge saddles are always shaped in a certain shape( lower to higher from the Low E to High E String) or (E to G String).
The saddles do not have to be in a certain configuration to achieve intonation. The general pattern of compensation is low E being longer and High E being shorter. Having 2 strings that each intonate but have close to the same saddle length is fine. Make sure you are using a good strobe tuner to be accurate.
Thank you ;)
@@MusicNomadCare so awesome of you guys to communicate with him on this topic! Your product and people are great!! Thank you music nomad!!!
Excelente video!!!!!
Great Video, would love to buy this set! Sadly, it's quite a bit overpriced in Germany. It says $59,99 on the website which translates to 53,20€, but instead it costs 90,43€, which is insane!
For the action height setting, why need to press the 1st fret?
In the flow, string height comes before nut height. The measurements we have are based on using the pick capo at the first fret. Since the nut has not been addressed yet you would be using a height reference point that could be off. The first fret is a fixed height to adjust from.
Great vid. Very useful. About the nut height. What if the strings i have on are not 45-105 ? ( i have 9050m which are .055-.070-.090-.105 )
The nut height measurement will not change due to the string size you're using. Regarding the nut files to use for your strings the files should be the same size as the string, up to no more than .003" - .004" larger than the string. Its important to address your truss rod and string action before you do any nut work. Its important to flow the KISS flow for the setup
@@MusicNomadCare Many thanks
Hello, for the pick up height you said 3/32 for the E side how the A D G measurements ? Thanks
For a P-Bass Pickup the measurement is 3/32 below the E string and G string. For more questions email our guitar tech at Tech@musicnomad.com
I have read that you should only turn truss rod nut 1/4 turn at a time then Wait 24 hours, Could you give me your professional advise on how far you can tighten the truss rod the first time 1/2 or ????
We realize and respect there are many different opinions when it comes to setting up your bass. in the KISS setup you will see Geoff in the video adjust his truss rod as much as needed for the proper relief in the neck.
Thanks for the video. One question, is it ok to install shorter strings on a long scale bass? The right size gauge goes an inch over the nut and then the string starts to go thiner. I installed it, it plays ok, but later noticed that I could have bought long scale strings ... could I have any issues along the way?
We recommend to use long scale strings on your long scale bass.
What about for 5 string bass? Do we use the B string instead of the E still use the same numbers like .008 for the truss rod and .085 for the string height?
For the truss rod measurement on your 5 string bass we suggest you start by using .010". The most common String Action Height for a Low-Medium action on the bass side (or low string) that will make your bass play great would be .090” or 2.25mm on the 5th string.
Hello,which wrench of truss rod is best for my fender cv 70s bass? 3/16 is too big obviously, and 4mm is a little bit loose , it almost makes me crazy😢 thanks
Please email tech@musicnomad.com to help with your specific question.
How do you measure a compound radius that goes from 10" to 14"? Do you use the 14" at the bridge or the 10" at the nut?
always the flatter radius, at the last fret is what you would match the bridge too.
For heavy guage flatwound strings would you recommend the same relief and string height?
You will want to use the same measurements for your flatwound strings
Hey! Should i loosen the Strings before i adjust the Trussrod? Or Are they "In Tune"?
Thank you!!!
You will need to be in tune while adjusting your truss rod
Thank you!
Some say because of "the amount of String tension On the Neck" you should loosen the Strings before adjusting the Truss rod...that confused me...
Greetings from Germany!
Respect....
What if you have uneven frets above the 7th?
It will depend on how many uneven frets the guitar has. Can you contact us at tech@musicnomad.com, and we can discuss your instrument's specific needs?
Clockwise is turning to the right, correct me if I’m wrong
yes your correct
Yup, righty tighty lefty loosie
which radius measurement was i supposed to use? it doesn't appear to be shown in the video.
To find the radius for your bass you can go to our Fretboard Radius Finder. Here is the link, www.musicnomadcare.com/How-To-Advice/Setup-Hub/Fretboard-Radius-Finder/ or measure your fretboard radius with our radius gauges at the last fret with the strings off to determine the radius. Email tech@musicnomad.com for more information.
looks like during the neck setup, you fretted the 13th fret and not the 12th fret?
He is pushing down right behind the 12th fret so the string is being fretted at the 12 fret.
It certainly looks to me like he’s pressing the 13th fret... an F note... not the 12th fret E note. Glad someone else asked the same question.
If he were playing a note (string suspended between the bridge and the fret) It would be the 13th fret, or an F…
But here he is suspending the string between the fret and the saddle. So it’s the twelfth fret that is terminating that length.
@@MarkJarz It's amazing how many people can't wrap their head around what he's doing here.
Why you adjust based on 1 string E only, and not check based on the other 3 strings A, D, G ?
We recognize there are different way to setup a guitar. In the KISS method the lowest string is the most common reference point to adjust the truss rod for proper relief. The low E string needs the most clearance.
I'm new to this can anyone help. At the Truss rod section when he uses the gauge between the neck and the string should it have a little bit of resistance but still go in easily or no resistance?
Thanks in advance
You want a light touch between the string and the gauge . If the gauge pushes the string up you do not have enough relief, if there is a gap between the string and gauge there is to much relief.
@@MusicNomadCare thank you for your prompt reply and help. Have a good new year 😁
Clockwise from which perspective, ha. Looking from the bridge to the headstock or the headstock to the bridge? Headstock to the bridge, right?
When he is making his adjustment to the truss rod you will see he needs to take relief away by tightening his truss rod and if you look closely you will see he turns his wrench towards his body which is clockwise to tighten the truss rod.
@@MusicNomadCare But if you're looking at it from the point of view of bridge to neck he's turning it counter clockwise. I just mention this because though, sure, we can see definitely which way he's turning it, and we know he means from the point of view of looking down the neck from the headstock, a lot of books, guides and explanations never tell you from which perspective to look. Depending of which way you look the clockwise/ counter clockwise perspective will be reversed.
You need to turn the nut clockwise to tighten the truss rod and counter clockwise to put relief in the neck no matter how you look at it the nut needs to turn clockwise to tighten your truss rod.
@@MusicNomadCare No. Depending on how you look at it the truss rod key will turn opposite ways.
Righty tighty lefty loosey 😉 It doesnt maker which way you turn the wrench from the postion your in, clockwise is tighting the nut which is taking away relief in the neck and counter clockwise is loosing the nut and adding relief in the neck.
Looking for something like this but in metric. Never found one..
Our Truss Rod and Nut Height gauges are label to specific instrument and string. Our String Action Gauges does come in metric, with our gauges, tool sets and the KISS method it will cover all your setup needs
How does this translate to 5-strings?
You would follow the same setup process as the 4-string P-Bass, but on a 5-string, you would start with the gauge labeled bass .008. That is the most common measurement for bass guitars. If you get some buzzing, go to the gauge labeled classical .010 to create a larger pocket for the low B string and other strings to oscillate. For string action, the most common String Action Height for a Low-Medium action on the bass side (or low string) that will make your bass play great would be 0.90" or 2.24mm on the 5th or 6th string. You can also reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com to discuss the needs of your specific instrument. Thank you.