Bro I watched a couple videos to get started with timelapses and got more confused than even before I started. Yours thou. Omg thank you. Super helpful
That's awesome! Great to hear I could help. I have a dedicated playlist as well so you don't miss out on any of the others. Check it out when you get the chance: ruclips.net/p/PLDhXA9nCkoqZgN7f7DrWT6B5fnbTLwS-2 Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks a lot. Would you do a video where you cover a few scenarios? Like what should I do if my interval has to be 2sec but I’m shooting stars and have to have a 8sec shutter
I like the 1 second interval best, but have had amazing results with a 2 second interval. So in between that at 5 seconds is the sweet spot for my preference in this particular case 🙂 awesome vid mike! Glad to know the 180° doesn’t always have to be followed so strictly
Great to hear what you prefer Jeahn! The 2 second interval is a good one ins't it...and you're right, between 2 and 5 seconds is fantastic, whereas the 10 second interval is a little bit like hyperspeed!! 😆 Thanks for watching. 😁👍
I love shooting time-lapses of clouds. Like you, I have tried a myriad of interval times and shutter speeds. My best results have been around 3-6 second intervals, but that is with just normal cloud movement. I screwed up a time-lapse with fantastic clouds by using a 5 second interval with great clouds, but they were moving very fast due to high winds. On that occasion, a 1 second interval would have been perfect. Hope life is treating you well, brother.
It is definitely one of those scenarios where shooting a quick test will always come in handy...the windspeed is a big determining factor when it comes to these and the S&Q mode is great for a quick test run. 👍 We're all good here dude thanks!! 😁👍
Thanks Mike for sharing. I tried it many times and failed may times, often I was super frustrated with the result, I am sure with this turorial the next one will be much better. I prefere intervals of 1 - 3 seconds, it gives a smoother look than fore example 10 seconds. Cheers m8!
No worries, I think between 1 and 5 seconds is definitely the sweet spot...a little longer when the winds are slight and a little faster when the winds are stronger...but it's great that we can manipulate the speed of the clouds with the settings. 👍 Let me know how you get on next time you go out...what's been going wrong with the ones you've done before?
Thanks Mike I have been doing Cloud and sunset time lapses for about 5 years with an Olympus 870 tough in the sports mode and it works well I have done sun rise and sunset with a Sony A6000 and they came out rather well Now with the Sony A7iii your videos are helping me Thank you!
This is really very informative, Mike. I don't have a DSLR but using Framelapse app on my Huawei Y7 Prime enables me to capture time-lapse of clouds. For me, 5 second interval works fine but I recently tried 3 second interval also and the result was really good.
Great tutorial Mike, I’ve tried a couple of times and ballsed them right up so this will help. Great advise on the storage as well.... it’s easy to forget how many images are needed and the space they need. Better get me some 128gb SD cards then. Cheers Jase
No worries Jase, after a few timelapse sequences, it's amazing how quickly a 32 or even a 64gb SD can fill up. Let me know how you get on when you do get out to shoot some more. 😁👍
I somehow didn't watch this video when it came out. It slipped through the cracks somehow. I went on a timelapse binge after I watched your video on the Sony internal timelapse. My memory cards hate you, Mike :) I am moving away from timelapse and into S&Q mode because it is easier for my to edit. Thank you, stay safe and sane.
Haha!! Timelapses are memory heavy!! I think I took over 20,000 images in total when making this one...my hrad drives hate me as well!!! 😆😆😆 Thanks so much Lance! 😁👍
The Canon 90D has a timelapse calculator built into it. So glad about that. Also, what is with the manual mode being ideal for timelapse photography so you can adjust the shutter speed when it gets dark to let more light in? My camera doesn't allow me to adjust shutter speed in manual while I am recording.
Brilliant vid Mike how did you know i'm going to try this tomorrow i'm working on a hill where i can see for 35 miles hope i can get it right as i might not be able to get there again. 👍😀
Hi David, Here's the link to the 180 degree shutter rule: ruclips.net/video/MuucL65mPvQ/видео.html S&Q mode is a function on the Sony cameras where it records anything from slow mo to timelapse speed frame rates. It saves the video in camera so no need to process the images afterwards ... although I shot a timelapse of the sun a few days ago and wished I'd shot it as stills in the interval mode as the haze made the sunspots really visible ... would have been great to have extra resolution that shooting timelapses as stills give. S&Q is basically the lazy Sony shooter's way of getting a timelapse! 😆 Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks for your very detailed tips, but could you give me another hint how to shoot a Timelapse with clouds ☁️ under NOT higher up view? I see some very dynamic timelapses as if they are lower than your vision and wondering how these are shot? Thanks 🙏
Hi Mike, thank you for yet another informative video. interesting take on the SIlent shutter, I mostly shoot day to night time-lapses and have never used the silent shutter for those instances, would it cause banding when shooting a day to night or night to day timelapse?
Thanks Rob. The only time you'll have a problem is of there are some cheap led lights in your frame or lighting your frame...or if there is some lightning in to the night. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Hi Mike, thanks for the tutorial. Helpful as always. One question, why are there issues using the electronic shutter when lightning is about? I saw the dark line at the top of your image, but do you know why that happens during lightning, but not at other times?
No worries, I'm glad it has helped!! That's from the short burst time of part of the lightening strike happening during the shutter opening or closing...the lightning burst was so short and it happened just as the slightly slower electronic shutter was moving through the frame... Normally light at other times is quite constant so this doesn't happen other than with lightning or when using a flash. 👍
I have an already rendered 12 second timelapse in premiere pro part of which I want to now incorporate into another project. It'll be part of a 2 minute video. Not sure how I would do that. I see time lapses amid regular video all the time but I'm stumped. Do I just import the rendered TL to the project? When importing is it copied? If I edit it in the new project is that permanent? Thanks.
Hey Steve, I tend to export the timelapse and then import that mp4 back into prem pro and drop it into the timeline of the main project. This makes it easier to edit. It won't affect the timelapse mp4, the project file will just store the changes you make to it. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
It is basically where you set your shutter speed to half your frame rate. You don't really need to understand it to make it work as long as you know that. It just gives motion blur in your timelapse or video to make the motion seem smoother. 👍
Ok, struggling with this as a newbie to time-lapse. Watched your 180 degree rule video and got lost........timelapse to me is nothing like shooting video......yes the output will eventually be a video, but since I am shooting stills, how does frame rate apply. Been all over the web, and can't find a simple explanation.........if I am shooting clouds at say 2 second intervals and the exposure is 1/500 at f11 and ISO 400 for example, and want to make a video from the stills that plays at 24 fps, do I divide the 1/500 by two, multiply 24 times 2, or divide 24 by 50%? Seems everywhere on the web there are different formulas and methods, but all reference back to shooting video not time lapses.🤨
Hi Bill, So you relate it to your shooting time and interval. Imagine your interval is your FPS...that's what you always relate it to. So your frame rate is one every two seconds, therefore if you follow the 180 degree rule your shutter speed should be half that at one every second. Does that make sense?
Just not seeing it.......according to Nikon, if I set my interval (what you are saying I should view as FPS) to 4 seconds, and use a shutter speed of two seconds, I am in fact getting an image every two seconds because Nikon counts interval as independent of shutter duration.....in other words there are only two seconds between the end of one exposure and the start of the next......so does that mean my fps is actually 2 vice 4. Best I can lasso this thing is to say that if I want 4 seconds between each 2 second shot then I need an interval setting on my D7500 of 6 seconds.....which begs the question that if my "interval" is now 6 should the shutter speed be 3, or is the true interval between shutter events now actually 4 and 2 seconds is the right shutter speed........I need a martini!
That is correct. The interval time is the time between the start of each shot, a bit like the way an old cinema camera would work, with a 180 degree shutter. So in the example you gave, with an interval of 4 seconds, the shutter will be open for 2 seconds and then closed for 2 seconds, exactly like the old shutter mechanism in a cinema camera set to 180 degrees...and that is the idea of the 180 degree rule, the shutter should be open for half the time that the interval/frame rate is set to. To be honest, like I said in the tutorial, the 180 degree rule becomes less important with clouds, and becomes less important the longer you set the interval to, once the shutter speed is about 1 second or longer. The 180 degree rule comes in really handy when shooting people, cars and anything moving faster than 4mph when you have an interval between 1/2 second and 2 seconds. It just gives you enough blur to blend the shots together giving the appearance of smoother motion in the final sequence. If you set your interval to 6 seconds, and shoot one with a shutter speed of 2 seconds and one with a shutter speed of 3 seconds, they would look almost identical if you adjusted the exposure to match. The best bet is to pitch up to a location and shoot a few sequences with different settings and then compile them to see which one you prefer. After a while you'll know which settings work best for your preferences. 👍
@@mikesphotography Ok, think I see what your getting at. Can you recommend a starting interval/shutter speed combination for clouds on a mild breezy day (say 10 mph winds)? I'll use that as a take off point and do as you say with a batch of different settings to settle on a 'general rule' for me. Many thanks, and appreciate your videos!
No worries Bill. With 10mph winds I'd start with an interval of 2 seconds...If you have the room on your memory card it would be good to do one with an interval of 1 second and another with an interval of 5 seconds just to give you different options. Then you can process them, and delete the ones you don't like. Another way to do it if you're short of time would be to shoot a 1 second interval sequence for about 10 minutes...which would give you 600 images...which would give you 24 seconds of finished TL at 25fps, then you would have enough images to be able to speed it up if the clouds were moving too slow.
Hi Jeremy, that's the Xaiomi 34" ultrawide monitor. I just got it, but I'm not so sure it has a decent dynamic range. I'm ordering a monitor calibrator this week to see if I can get it working well, but my highlights look like they are blowing out when the histogram is telling me that they are good...Hopefully the calibrator will get the settings in a better place! Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Nice!! Is that the wrap around one (32:9)!? I was looking at that one but couldn't quite justify the price...even though I really wanted it!! I've got the SpyderX pro on order so will definitely be making a video on it once I get it...thinking about it, I probably should adjust the settings in my Mac so I start to see all of the colours and luminance on the screen as well as calibrating it...🤔 What are you mainly using the Samsung for? And what system have you got it hooked up to?
@@mikesphotography hi - yes the curved one. It’s really nice. Using it for bit of everything coding / photography / I also run online training course so it’s great for presentations with obs
I just do time lapse on my phone in camera and it’s still pretty cool 🤩
That's all good ... the best camera is the one you have with you ... and this will be your mobile most of the time.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Bro I watched a couple videos to get started with timelapses and got more confused than even before I started. Yours thou. Omg thank you. Super helpful
That's awesome! Great to hear I could help. I have a dedicated playlist as well so you don't miss out on any of the others. Check it out when you get the chance: ruclips.net/p/PLDhXA9nCkoqZgN7f7DrWT6B5fnbTLwS-2
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks a lot. Would you do a video where you cover a few scenarios? Like what should I do if my interval has to be 2sec but I’m shooting stars and have to have a 8sec shutter
I like the 1 second interval best, but have had amazing results with a 2 second interval. So in between that at 5 seconds is the sweet spot for my preference in this particular case 🙂 awesome vid mike! Glad to know the 180° doesn’t always have to be followed so strictly
Great to hear what you prefer Jeahn!
The 2 second interval is a good one ins't it...and you're right, between 2 and 5 seconds is fantastic, whereas the 10 second interval is a little bit like hyperspeed!! 😆
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
using s&q function as preview is a great idea!
Thanks very much! It definitely useful for things like this. 😁👍
I love shooting time-lapses of clouds. Like you, I have tried a myriad of interval times and shutter speeds. My best results have been around 3-6 second intervals, but that is with just normal cloud movement. I screwed up a time-lapse with fantastic clouds by using a 5 second interval with great clouds, but they were moving very fast due to high winds. On that occasion, a 1 second interval would have been perfect. Hope life is treating you well, brother.
It is definitely one of those scenarios where shooting a quick test will always come in handy...the windspeed is a big determining factor when it comes to these and the S&Q mode is great for a quick test run. 👍
We're all good here dude thanks!! 😁👍
Thanks Mike for sharing. I tried it many times and failed may times, often I was super frustrated with the result, I am sure with this turorial the next one will be much better. I prefere intervals of 1 - 3 seconds, it gives a smoother look than fore example 10 seconds. Cheers m8!
No worries, I think between 1 and 5 seconds is definitely the sweet spot...a little longer when the winds are slight and a little faster when the winds are stronger...but it's great that we can manipulate the speed of the clouds with the settings. 👍
Let me know how you get on next time you go out...what's been going wrong with the ones you've done before?
Thanks Mike I have been doing Cloud and sunset time lapses for about 5 years with an Olympus 870 tough in the sports mode and it works well I have done sun rise and sunset with a Sony A6000 and they came out rather well Now with the Sony A7iii your videos are helping me Thank you!
Great to hear Dave! It is a fascinating subject that is forever changing isn't it.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Your tutorials are the best. 🔥
Thanks very much! 😁👍
This is really very informative, Mike.
I don't have a DSLR but using Framelapse app on my Huawei Y7 Prime enables me to capture time-lapse of clouds. For me, 5 second interval works fine but I recently tried 3 second interval also and the result was really good.
Great to hear Hammad! I might have to try that app out myself!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Good tutorial!
Extremely helpful. Thank you very much.
Great to hear it has helped! 😁👍
Hi Mike, Great tutorial again! :)
Hey Viktor! Thanks very much!! 😁👍
Great tutorial Mike, I’ve tried a couple of times and ballsed them right up so this will help. Great advise on the storage as well.... it’s easy to forget how many images are needed and the space they need. Better get me some 128gb SD cards then. Cheers Jase
No worries Jase, after a few timelapse sequences, it's amazing how quickly a 32 or even a 64gb SD can fill up. Let me know how you get on when you do get out to shoot some more. 😁👍
I somehow didn't watch this video when it came out. It slipped through the cracks somehow. I went on a timelapse binge after I watched your video on the Sony internal timelapse. My memory cards hate you, Mike :) I am moving away from timelapse and into S&Q mode because it is easier for my to edit. Thank you, stay safe and sane.
Haha!! Timelapses are memory heavy!! I think I took over 20,000 images in total when making this one...my hrad drives hate me as well!!! 😆😆😆
Thanks so much Lance! 😁👍
The Canon 90D has a timelapse calculator built into it. So glad about that.
Also, what is with the manual mode being ideal for timelapse photography so you can adjust the shutter speed when it gets dark to let more light in? My camera doesn't allow me to adjust shutter speed in manual while I am recording.
Brilliant vid Mike how did you know i'm going to try this tomorrow i'm working on a hill where i can see for 35 miles hope i can get it right as i might not be able to get there again. 👍😀
Haha! That's my Spidey sense kicking in!! 😆
I hope you got some good sequences! 👍
thank you, i like 10 seconds XD great tips
Thanks mike great video. Two questions ,
Where are the links to 180 degree and other videos and what is S&q mode is that slow motion video?
Hi David,
Here's the link to the 180 degree shutter rule: ruclips.net/video/MuucL65mPvQ/видео.html
S&Q mode is a function on the Sony cameras where it records anything from slow mo to timelapse speed frame rates. It saves the video in camera so no need to process the images afterwards ... although I shot a timelapse of the sun a few days ago and wished I'd shot it as stills in the interval mode as the haze made the sunspots really visible ... would have been great to have extra resolution that shooting timelapses as stills give.
S&Q is basically the lazy Sony shooter's way of getting a timelapse! 😆
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks, any idea where I could find a tuto for edit clouds, thanks again
Thanks for your very detailed tips, but could you give me another hint how to shoot a Timelapse with clouds ☁️ under NOT higher up view? I see some very dynamic timelapses as if they are lower than your vision and wondering how these are shot?
Thanks 🙏
I'm watching your video while shooting timelapse with my canon 90D 😀
Haha! Excellent!! I hope you get a great sequence!! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography yes sir I did... Thanks to you 🕺
Nice one Mike
Thanks John! 😁👍
Hi Mike, thank you for yet another informative video.
interesting take on the SIlent shutter, I mostly shoot day to night time-lapses and have never used the silent shutter for those instances, would it cause banding when shooting a day to night or night to day timelapse?
Thanks Rob. The only time you'll have a problem is of there are some cheap led lights in your frame or lighting your frame...or if there is some lightning in to the night.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Hi Mike, thanks for the tutorial. Helpful as always.
One question, why are there issues using the electronic shutter when lightning is about? I saw the dark line at the top of your image, but do you know why that happens during lightning, but not at other times?
No worries, I'm glad it has helped!!
That's from the short burst time of part of the lightening strike happening during the shutter opening or closing...the lightning burst was so short and it happened just as the slightly slower electronic shutter was moving through the frame...
Normally light at other times is quite constant so this doesn't happen other than with lightning or when using a flash. 👍
I have an already rendered 12 second timelapse in premiere pro part of which I want to now incorporate into another project. It'll be part of a 2 minute video. Not sure how I would do that. I see time lapses amid regular video all the time but I'm stumped. Do I just import the rendered TL to the project? When importing is it copied? If I edit it in the new project is that permanent? Thanks.
Hey Steve,
I tend to export the timelapse and then import that mp4 back into prem pro and drop it into the timeline of the main project. This makes it easier to edit. It won't affect the timelapse mp4, the project file will just store the changes you make to it.
I hope that helps.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I prefer 1" shutter speed with 6" intervals.
Thanks for sharing your preferred timing...I'll have to try that one out. 👍
@@mikesphotography I meant I preferred it from your video clips after watching and comparing them.
Ah...sorry...it's been a while since I made this one...😆🤦🏻♂️
Nice tutorial, I thought birds Are A Part of Nature so they don't really matter? Haha. Unless your making a Super long Timelapse!
Haha!! Good point ... they just get in the way of a good timelapse ... and they can be quite distracting ... 😆
What lens would you recommend for the sony?
Which Sony do you have?
@@mikesphotography Sony A7 iii
I'd go with the 16-35mm or if you're on a tighter budget, the tamron 17-28mm. These work really well with timelapse of clouds. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks!! I'm getting the tamron.
I have the tamron and it is a great little lens. 👍
Hi Mike, what is 180 degree rule?
Here is a video to explain it: ruclips.net/video/MuucL65mPvQ/видео.html
@@mikesphotography though I am still not clear about 180 degree rule after watching your video but I thank you so much Mike
It is basically where you set your shutter speed to half your frame rate.
You don't really need to understand it to make it work as long as you know that.
It just gives motion blur in your timelapse or video to make the motion seem smoother. 👍
@@mikesphotography this makes a very good sense, I will spend more time to understand it . Your videos are great 👍 and I benefit quite a lot.
Ok, struggling with this as a newbie to time-lapse. Watched your 180 degree rule video and got lost........timelapse to me is nothing like shooting video......yes the output will eventually be a video, but since I am shooting stills, how does frame rate apply. Been all over the web, and can't find a simple explanation.........if I am shooting clouds at say 2 second intervals and the exposure is 1/500 at f11 and ISO 400 for example, and want to make a video from the stills that plays at 24 fps, do I divide the 1/500 by two, multiply 24 times 2, or divide 24 by 50%? Seems everywhere on the web there are different formulas and methods, but all reference back to shooting video not time lapses.🤨
Hi Bill,
So you relate it to your shooting time and interval.
Imagine your interval is your FPS...that's what you always relate it to. So your frame rate is one every two seconds, therefore if you follow the 180 degree rule your shutter speed should be half that at one every second.
Does that make sense?
Just not seeing it.......according to Nikon, if I set my interval (what you are saying I should view as FPS) to 4 seconds, and use a shutter speed of two seconds, I am in fact getting an image every two seconds because Nikon counts interval as independent of shutter duration.....in other words there are only two seconds between the end of one exposure and the start of the next......so does that mean my fps is actually 2 vice 4. Best I can lasso this thing is to say that if I want 4 seconds between each 2 second shot then I need an interval setting on my D7500 of 6 seconds.....which begs the question that if my "interval" is now 6 should the shutter speed be 3, or is the true interval between shutter events now actually 4 and 2 seconds is the right shutter speed........I need a martini!
That is correct. The interval time is the time between the start of each shot, a bit like the way an old cinema camera would work, with a 180 degree shutter.
So in the example you gave, with an interval of 4 seconds, the shutter will be open for 2 seconds and then closed for 2 seconds, exactly like the old shutter mechanism in a cinema camera set to 180 degrees...and that is the idea of the 180 degree rule, the shutter should be open for half the time that the interval/frame rate is set to.
To be honest, like I said in the tutorial, the 180 degree rule becomes less important with clouds, and becomes less important the longer you set the interval to, once the shutter speed is about 1 second or longer.
The 180 degree rule comes in really handy when shooting people, cars and anything moving faster than 4mph when you have an interval between 1/2 second and 2 seconds. It just gives you enough blur to blend the shots together giving the appearance of smoother motion in the final sequence.
If you set your interval to 6 seconds, and shoot one with a shutter speed of 2 seconds and one with a shutter speed of 3 seconds, they would look almost identical if you adjusted the exposure to match.
The best bet is to pitch up to a location and shoot a few sequences with different settings and then compile them to see which one you prefer. After a while you'll know which settings work best for your preferences. 👍
@@mikesphotography Ok, think I see what your getting at. Can you recommend a starting interval/shutter speed combination for clouds on a mild breezy day (say 10 mph winds)? I'll use that as a take off point and do as you say with a batch of different settings to settle on a 'general rule' for me. Many thanks, and appreciate your videos!
No worries Bill. With 10mph winds I'd start with an interval of 2 seconds...If you have the room on your memory card it would be good to do one with an interval of 1 second and another with an interval of 5 seconds just to give you different options. Then you can process them, and delete the ones you don't like.
Another way to do it if you're short of time would be to shoot a 1 second interval sequence for about 10 minutes...which would give you 600 images...which would give you 24 seconds of finished TL at 25fps, then you would have enough images to be able to speed it up if the clouds were moving too slow.
What monitor is that in the background?
Hi Jeremy, that's the Xaiomi 34" ultrawide monitor. I just got it, but I'm not so sure it has a decent dynamic range. I'm ordering a monitor calibrator this week to see if I can get it working well, but my highlights look like they are blowing out when the histogram is telling me that they are good...Hopefully the calibrator will get the settings in a better place!
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks. I just picked up the 49inch Samsung. What kit are you going to use to calibrate? You should make a video on it?
Nice!! Is that the wrap around one (32:9)!? I was looking at that one but couldn't quite justify the price...even though I really wanted it!!
I've got the SpyderX pro on order so will definitely be making a video on it once I get it...thinking about it, I probably should adjust the settings in my Mac so I start to see all of the colours and luminance on the screen as well as calibrating it...🤔
What are you mainly using the Samsung for? And what system have you got it hooked up to?
@@mikesphotography hi - yes the curved one. It’s really nice. Using it for bit of everything coding / photography / I also run online training course so it’s great for presentations with obs
What’s your email I will send you a picture
1 sec
Thanks