Can a Crappy, Older Surfer Ride Over 100 Waves in a Single Surf Session??
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- If you haven't figured it out already, I ride A LOT of waves. Many of them, a lot of them in fact, aren't very good. But I count them all because surfing is my fitness routine as much as it is my passion. I try to get at least 30 pop-ups per session, and if I don't get that number, I try to make up for it in subsequent sessions. Long or short, good or terrible, each pop-up is like an Ocean Burpee, so I ride as many as I can as long as I don't snake, back paddle, or do anything dicky to anyone else in the lineup.
Several months back, there was a good swell, and I stayed out for over 5 hours. I decided to keep counting past 30 and ended up at 93 by dark. As I told Travis I was finally going in, he said, "Oh, come on, you're so close. You have to get 100!!" It was practically dark, and I didn't have time, but of course, my OCD brain locked into that thought, and I wasn't able to shake it.
So, not long ago, a good swell came into view, and I had a good block of free time. I decided I was going to go for it. As I was getting close, I started catching basically anything I could because the tide was getting too high, and I was running out of time. But in the end, I finally pulled it.
My final count was 103. I could be off by 1 or 2, but that's why I got the extra 3: to make sure it was over 100.
I don't think I'll ever do it again, the counting, that is. It just takes too much enjoyment out, as I was thinking so much about it and ended up taking a bunch of shitty waves just to get the number. Plus, I was SPENT after the session and hurting for a couple of days. But it's nice to know that an old fart like me could pull this off, and I got to shut Travis down yet again!!!
Great wave with 2 people out. Wow.
Yeah, that's because a couple other more perfect waves nearby were going off (and crowded, of course).
Not so crappy.
Hey thanks! I have my moments.
dope
🙂
How old? Looks good...
I don't like to say, because I act too immature for my age. But I have a 13-year-old son, born IN wedlock, if that gies you any idea.
Hell yeah bro
Yew!!