This absolutely answere a problem I've been having here in Florida. It looks like the apartments basically installed a unit that moves a sh!# ton of air, but hardly budges the actual humidy. Between the cooler temps, and fast moving air. This all makes much more sense, and I will be adjusting my sensors accordingly. Thanks again!
Very good video. Getting this right is a very crucial part to a homes environment and comfort levels! I saw plenty of blowers set incorrectly around my part of the world. Also many homes not balancing air flow correctly and basements wind up being refrigerators sapping cooling from the rest of the home.
Great video.....it's a bit confusing in a sense because you got people trying to understand RH%. In the video you have a psychrometer in a duct at the air handler showing RH% going up as the speed goes down. But whats not being shown is the RH% in the space. The space is what most people are comparing the information in this video to and getting confused. In the comments Im seeing people thinking if they lower the speed of the blower they will have a dryer house. You use high speed for ac and low speed for heat rule of thumb.
You're right, I thought he was comparing it to the %RH in the space. I have my American standard heat pump serviced twice a year. So if I understand this when the technician comes out to service the unit, as he just did, for winter service, he should be adjusting the fan at a lower speed?
I thought lowering blower speed would dry out the house because a lower fan speed gives air more time in contact with the evap coil thus pulling out more moisture. How is this logic incorrect?
Excellent video. I have high indoor humidity levels, and only 8-9 run cycle times. Would having a tech lowering the blower motor die speed does be a good place to start…and see if that adds to the run cycle time, and lowers the indoor humidity level?
Isn’t nice not to get an answer let alone a straight one? 🤣 My understanding is lower fan speed equals longer run cycle equals lower humidity. I wouldn’t go less then medium because low speed could cause your evaporator indoor coil to freeze up and running the compressor. If you air handler is horizontal then we’ll at least in my case a minimum static air pressure of 2.0 has to be on the supply side so low probably without a manometer to verify would be below that too. Medium or high speed probably your only two choices.
I live in florida and in a humid environment. I find more moisture and mold problems when running less than 400/-425per ton. I use smaller more appropriate equipment compressor capacity and higher indoor coil temp but the system running much longer will dehumidify plenty and will not be cycled off as much.
That does make sense. Especially the sizing issue. It can't remove moisture when it's not running. So much of the time I see oversized units installed in the belief it's better to have more. Air conditioning is better all around if it runs long cycles. Thanks for the thoughts. GFM
I live in fla. and have been dealing with high humidity for years even after i just put in a new 2ton 16seer reem. smaller unit than i had to suck out more humidity and its worse. but i did notice the air blows super hard out of the vents. this makes perfect sense. I'm going to get my tech to lower the fan speed tomorrow and I will give it a week or so and update with results 🙏
I think relative humidity of the air stream right after the evaporator compared to the whole room/ building and how the fan's CFM interacts with the rest of the system is what is confusing people.
OK.....I am totally confused. Your video states that lower fan speeds result in lower relative humidity in the air exiting the condensing coil (entering the living area). Yet your video shows the exact opposite. When you decreased fan speed the RH on the meter went up. Where are you taking your RH readings and what am I missing???? Thanks...
What we are trying to do here is remove more moisture from the air inside the structure. Lower fan speed reduces air flow which reduces evap temp which brings the air temp passing thru the coil lower which brings more of the air to the dew point, increasing condensation. Hope this helps. GFM
He's not showing how the actual humidity level in the house is being affected. Only that the lower fan speed is simply condensing the air more with the lower evaporator coil temperature which takes away from the airs ability to hold water allowing for the dehumidification process to start or be more effective. Dew points.
I install goodman awuf2408 for apt complex. It comes wired at low speed. High speed is on a dummy terminal on the circuit board. I'm in central fl. If I increase the fan speed to high to reduce humidity, will that backfire in winter when calling for heat? Wont high speed cool the elements and be less efficient during heat. It has a board but like I mentioned one speed is on a dead terminal.
When the A/C comes on, the fan relay is energized. That can be connected to high speed. When heat is called for, the first element turns on the fan. That speed can be wired to a lower speed. GFM
Professor I live in a city that don't rain very much so it's dried all the time. Should I use low fan speed to increase humidity or humidity in close doors can be harmful to my health? In rainy days should I increase the fan speed so I will get less humidity?
Hey I got a quick question im a New Young Beginner in the HVAC world. Im just curious about a few things to get the maximum cooling out of my own a.c. I live in dallas texas. Where it gets HOT🔥In the summer. The relative humidity usually hovers around 65% all year . Im curious if i should increase/decrease The Fan speed at the condensor or evaporator. Right now it's set to high at the Evap coil & medium at the condensor. But also along with the humidity comes the real feel V.S Accual Temp. I think the dryer the air the cooler it feels inside. But IDK I might be wrong. I have cleaned the Evap coil inside real good it looks almost new. The condensor didnt look that dirty so i didn't clean it yet. My freeon is 410 it was a little low when i moved in so i topped I off. On high side My gauges show 278 PSIG @ 83° F outside. My unit is a 2012year model Goodman 2 ton my home is 2100 sq ft @ around 800 CFM/min. I would appreciate the advice help ive been studying my HVAC book but i get confused with the calculations sometimes. I've been in The Field for yrs 1.5 still got lots to learn. i found A/C as my trade. It's what interests me. And what my brain gets along with best out of 6 different trades I tried. . Thank you Advice would be much appriciated. And added to my HVAC knowledge.
If you are moving more air and the humidity is less, wouldn't you move the same amount of water in a given time, as low speed(less volume of air but higher humidity) with higher humidity? Thanks for the video.
amtpdb1 Yes, however the lower the temperature of the air, the more water is condensed and thus the lower the resulting relative humidity of the supply air. Hope this helps. GFM
grayfurnaceman correct me if im wrong, but these humidity #s i think are very relative to the DB temperature. while reading 90% Humidity at 45* F you might find the same air at 60% humidity at 70*. can you elaborate on that? i think im confused about something, i do a lot of SAVE testing and find this to be somewhat true....
Jody Wilson The DB temp determines how much moisture the air can hold. The hotter the air is, the farther apart the air molecules are. That space allows moisture to be absorbed. Relative humidity is the term we use to show how much space there is. As the air cools it essentially "squeezes" the moisture, and when the dew point is reached, the moisture condenses out of the air. I have a playlist on humidity that may help. Check the grayfurnaceman channel. Hope this helps. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Since my ducts are in the hot attic, I went and measured almost a 6 degree rise in temperature measured at the supply side plenum out and furthest supply duct in the house during a hot sunny summer day later in the afternoon. House is 2070 sq ft with returns in most of the rooms. That got me to raise the fan from medium to high and with a fixed humidity reader by the thermostat kept it around 45 to 50 RH and 75 degrees set in the summer. I now have a brand new system one month old with a higher SEER so not able to run much here in Florida lately due to the cooler weather. Not sure if high speed is going to do the same humidity removal job yet but should push the cool air faster to the rest of the house. Thoughts?
@@jcstudios5629 The higher fan speed makes no difference in mitigating temp rise. You are just moving more air. You will probably have less humidity removal with that high speed and I would lower the speed to the point where humidity removal is as you want it. If there is lack of cooling in the farthest rooms, del with that by additional insulation or increased duct sizing. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman The attic has blown in insulation. All the duct work is hanging above all that. Could I lay insulation over the ductwork further down the the chain towards the furthest rooms to try to keep some of the heat out? I know the heat does get into them because when the air handler first starts, I feel a rush of warns air coming from the furthest exchange then the cold air. Rinse and repeat every cycle. The lines coming off the junction boxes up there are a little smaller the the one entering them. Not sure of the exact size. I read some where about the downside of installed attic ductwork and that same issue. Unfortunately there is nowhere else to put them. I also have return ductwork. It’s a spaghetti mess up there. Lenar built these homes in the mid 2000’s and were very proud of their Carrier AC systems installed, complete with larger media filter box. I assume some good engineering went into the design of it all but since I been educating myself on the subject, I saw absolutely no sign of a static pressure test performed here. Perhaps they did it on a same model prior so they already knew the parameters and just instructed the installation of each one the same way.
@@jcstudios5629 The use of flex duct has always been a problem for me. It is the easiest to install, but the worst in operation. The application of insulation over the flex lines may indeed help if it does not crush the flex lines. GFM
Yes, Lower fan speed means higher temp drop across the coil. More temp drop, the more moisture removed. When the temp rises to ambient, humidity is lower. GFM
I checked the gyrometer and it's about 50% humidity while the indoor temperature is 74 degree since I set the thermostat to 74. My house have 1,500 sq of living space inside. I have 4 ton installed last week. I had to set it to low speed to prevent too much air flow in the duct. However, it run for about like 5 to 10 minutes depending on how hot it is outside, sometimes longer and then it go off and stay off for about another 8 to 20 minutes. Is it too big and that I need to downgrade back to 3.5 ton or is it about right? I'm from Pensacola Florida.
Wayne Wallace unfortunately it looks like and sounds like your unit is oversized. 3.5 should have been fine. If this was my house I would speed up the fan that will help with the short cycling issues and give your unit a better chance at surviving. You might want to look into a portable dehumidifier as well. Good luck guy hope it works out my 1800sq house has a 3.5 and it’s an old home 57s and in FL.
@@jaredgoins7000 Thank you so much for the update. I'm please for the update information from you. I'm looking to get it back to 3.5 ton by changing the outside and not the inside. Would that hurt anything? Also, right now, at 74 degree, the air temp out of the air vent is 52 to 54 degree. Is that how could it supposed to be? I measured that temperature with the gun as in your picture. Also, the unit stayed off at night and come back on for another six to ten minutes. It stayed off at about 15 minutes. Is that still oversized? I hope you don't mind the followup. Let me know. Thanks.
Autonomous Prime It can if the duct is uninsulated and in a space that is colder than the indoor temperature. Also, if the ducting is down flow, the coil may drip into the ductwork. Hope this helps. GFM
Autonomous Prime if the duct is going through an unconditioned space, i believe it would. condensation happens when energy(heat) passes into a cooler object but the moisture cannot.
+johnmiller102 Actually, lower fan speed will lower the temperature of the evap coil. The lower temperature will remove more moisture from the air. Hope this helps. GFM
Your video shows R.H going higher with a lower CFM. I realize the lower temp on lower CFM raises the R.H., but then how are we removing more humidity at lower CFM?
Still hard to comprehend, I would think the RH would be lower at lower CFM because you are removing more water, more so than the slight increase in Delta T. Is it because of the increase in Delta T that is increasing the RH. I know you are right but it's weird??
So if I lower my fan speed I do 2 things I lower the A coil temperature and remove more moisture from the house right which could lower my power bill to right?
I would never make that jump. The primary reason for lower fan speed is to remove more moisture to avoid high humidity in the structure for mold problems. GFM
You probably don’t have a TXV on the coil and that’s why the humidity goes up when fan speed goes down. One needs to drop fan speed when tstat is almost satisfied (within 2 degrees). So, even if you don’t have a 2 speed compressor, you can use a 2 stage tstat and wire a lower fan speed to the Y1 circuit.
Bran Kind i have a goodman air handler with 5 speed taps if I get a two stage thermostat how could I connect this to switch to a lower blower speed? I have currently have a four wire setup leading to the thermostat but I could run more wires of needed
This is the result when measuring the RH near the cooling coil at low speed but it's totally different RH result at the serving area or room.
This absolutely answere a problem I've been having here in Florida. It looks like the apartments basically installed a unit that moves a sh!# ton of air, but hardly budges the actual humidy. Between the cooler temps, and fast moving air. This all makes much more sense, and I will be adjusting my sensors accordingly. Thanks again!
Welcome
GFM
Very good video. Getting this right is a very crucial part to a homes environment and comfort levels!
I saw plenty of blowers set incorrectly around my part of the world. Also many homes not balancing air flow correctly and basements wind up being refrigerators sapping cooling from the rest of the home.
Great video.....it's a bit confusing in a sense because you got people trying to understand RH%.
In the video you have a psychrometer in a duct at the air handler showing RH% going up as the speed goes down. But whats not being shown is the RH% in the space. The space is what most people are comparing the information in this video to and getting confused. In the comments Im seeing people thinking if they lower the speed of the blower they will have a dryer house. You use high speed for ac and low speed for heat rule of thumb.
You're right, I thought he was comparing it to the %RH in the space. I have my American standard heat pump serviced twice a year. So if I understand this when the technician comes out to service the unit, as he just did, for winter service, he should be adjusting the fan at a lower speed?
Qqaq
I thought lowering blower speed would dry out the house because a lower fan speed gives air more time in contact with the evap coil thus pulling out more moisture. How is this logic incorrect?
@@revealingfacts4all
Nice question
Waiting for answer 🤔👌
My favorite youtuber and HVAC professional!
Excellent video. I have high indoor humidity levels, and only 8-9 run cycle times. Would having a tech lowering the blower motor die speed does be a good place to start…and see if that adds to the run cycle time, and lowers the indoor humidity level?
Isn’t nice not to get an answer let alone a straight one? 🤣 My understanding is lower fan speed equals longer run cycle equals lower humidity. I wouldn’t go less then medium because low speed could cause your evaporator indoor coil to freeze up and running the compressor. If you air handler is horizontal then we’ll at least in my case a minimum static air pressure of 2.0 has to be on the supply side so low probably without a manometer to verify would be below that too. Medium or high speed probably your only two choices.
Stupid iPad won’t let me edit last comment meant to say ruin the compressor.
I live in florida and in a humid environment. I find more moisture and mold problems when running less than 400/-425per ton. I use smaller more appropriate equipment compressor capacity and higher indoor coil temp but the system running much longer will dehumidify plenty and will not be cycled off as much.
That does make sense. Especially the sizing issue. It can't remove moisture when it's not running. So much of the time I see oversized units installed in the belief it's better to have more. Air conditioning is better all around if it runs long cycles. Thanks for the thoughts.
GFM
Very well said. Thanks
Amazing video
I live in fla. and have been dealing with high humidity for years even after i just put in a new 2ton 16seer reem. smaller unit than i had to suck out more humidity and its worse. but i did notice the air blows super hard out of the vents. this makes perfect sense. I'm going to get my tech to lower the fan speed tomorrow and I will give it a week or so and update with results 🙏
How was your result? You never got back to us!
Did you have the tech lower the does and did it lower the humidity level? What was the result?
@@TJ-22 he lowered it but it didn't change anything. Bought a dehumidifier and that solved my issues
@@Julio_thepainter Thanks
Excellent GFM
I think relative humidity of the air stream right after the evaporator compared to the whole room/ building and how the fan's CFM interacts with the rest of the system is what is confusing people.
OK.....I am totally confused. Your video states that lower fan speeds result in lower relative humidity in the air exiting the condensing coil (entering the living area). Yet your video shows the exact opposite. When you decreased fan speed the RH on the meter went up. Where are you taking your RH readings and what am I missing???? Thanks...
What we are trying to do here is remove more moisture from the air inside the structure. Lower fan speed reduces air flow which reduces evap temp which brings the air temp passing thru the coil lower which brings more of the air to the dew point, increasing condensation. Hope this helps.
GFM
He's not showing how the actual humidity level in the house is being affected. Only that the lower fan speed is simply condensing the air more with the lower evaporator coil temperature which takes away from the airs ability to hold water allowing for the dehumidification process to start or be more effective. Dew points.
great explanations
thanks
gonz garr Welcome
GFM
I install goodman awuf2408 for apt complex. It comes wired at low speed. High speed is on a dummy terminal on the circuit board. I'm in central fl. If I increase the fan speed to high to reduce humidity, will that backfire in winter when calling for heat? Wont high speed cool the elements and be less efficient during heat. It has a board but like I mentioned one speed is on a dead terminal.
When the A/C comes on, the fan relay is energized. That can be connected to high speed. When heat is called for, the first element turns on the fan. That speed can be wired to a lower speed.
GFM
Hold the mode button to produce the light.
thank you...
Professor I live in a city that don't rain very much so it's dried all the time. Should I use low fan speed to increase humidity or humidity in close doors can be harmful to my health? In rainy days should I increase the fan speed so I will get less humidity?
Hey I got a quick question im a New Young Beginner in the HVAC world. Im just curious about a few things to get the maximum cooling out of my own a.c. I live in dallas texas. Where it gets HOT🔥In the summer. The relative humidity usually hovers around 65% all year . Im curious if i should increase/decrease The Fan speed at the condensor or evaporator. Right now it's set to high at the Evap coil & medium at the condensor. But also along with the humidity comes the real feel V.S Accual Temp. I think the dryer the air the cooler it feels inside. But IDK I might be wrong. I have cleaned the Evap coil inside real good it looks almost new. The condensor didnt look that dirty so i didn't clean it yet. My freeon is 410 it was a little low when i moved in so i topped I off. On high side My gauges show 278 PSIG @ 83° F outside. My unit is a 2012year model Goodman 2 ton my home is 2100 sq ft @ around 800 CFM/min. I would appreciate the advice help ive been studying my HVAC book but i get confused with the calculations sometimes. I've been in The Field for yrs 1.5 still got lots to learn. i found A/C as my trade. It's what interests me. And what my brain gets along with best out of 6 different trades I tried.
. Thank you
Advice would be much appriciated. And added to my HVAC knowledge.
What about static pressure?
Static pressure does not directly affect humidity, but increased static will lower CFM which will affect humidity.
GFM
Does static pressure not matter as much if you’re more concerned with dehumidification? Or should static pressure be first priority regardless?
Nice video but Listen at 1.25 speed, you’ll thank me.
Yes moderate 🙄
Ty
OMG, that's hilarious. Now I'm wondering if author accidentally ripped video at slower speed. Thanks though.
Wow you're not wrong
If you are moving more air and the humidity is less, wouldn't you move the same amount of water in a given time, as low speed(less volume of air but higher humidity) with higher humidity?
Thanks for the video.
amtpdb1 Yes, however the lower the temperature of the air, the more water is condensed and thus the lower the resulting relative humidity of the supply air. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks
grayfurnaceman correct me if im wrong, but these humidity #s i think are very relative to the DB temperature. while reading 90% Humidity at 45* F you might find the same air at 60% humidity at 70*.
can you elaborate on that? i think im confused about something, i do a lot of SAVE testing and find this to be somewhat true....
Jody Wilson The DB temp determines how much moisture the air can hold. The hotter the air is, the farther apart the air molecules are. That space allows moisture to be absorbed. Relative humidity is the term we use to show how much space there is. As the air cools it essentially "squeezes" the moisture, and when the dew point is reached, the moisture condenses out of the air. I have a playlist on humidity that may help. Check the grayfurnaceman channel. Hope this helps.
GFM
Would raising the blower speed help with lowering temps in the house at a better rate?
Only to the extent that it may move the cooler air throughout the room faster.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Since my ducts are in the hot attic, I went and measured almost a 6 degree rise in temperature measured at the supply side plenum out and furthest supply duct in the house during a hot sunny summer day later in the afternoon. House is 2070 sq ft with returns in most of the rooms. That got me to raise the fan from medium to high and with a fixed humidity reader by the thermostat kept it around 45 to 50 RH and 75 degrees set in the summer. I now have a brand new system one month old with a higher SEER so not able to run much here in Florida lately due to the cooler weather. Not sure if high speed is going to do the same humidity removal job yet but should push the cool air faster to the rest of the house. Thoughts?
@@jcstudios5629 The higher fan speed makes no difference in mitigating temp rise. You are just moving more air. You will probably have less humidity removal with that high speed and I would lower the speed to the point where humidity removal is as you want it. If there is lack of cooling in the farthest rooms, del with that by additional insulation or increased duct sizing.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman The attic has blown in insulation. All the duct work is hanging above all that. Could I lay insulation over the ductwork further down the the chain towards the furthest rooms to try to keep some of the heat out? I know the heat does get into them because when the air handler first starts, I feel a rush of warns air coming from the furthest exchange then the cold air. Rinse and repeat every cycle. The lines coming off the junction boxes up there are a little smaller the the one entering them. Not sure of the exact size. I read some where about the downside of installed attic ductwork and that same issue. Unfortunately there is nowhere else to put them. I also have return ductwork. It’s a spaghetti mess up there. Lenar built these homes in the mid 2000’s and were very proud of their Carrier AC systems installed, complete with larger media filter box. I assume some good engineering went into the design of it all but since I been educating myself on the subject, I saw absolutely no sign of a static pressure test performed here. Perhaps they did it on a same model prior so they already knew the parameters and just instructed the installation of each one the same way.
@@jcstudios5629 The use of flex duct has always been a problem for me. It is the easiest to install, but the worst in operation. The application of insulation over the flex lines may indeed help if it does not crush the flex lines.
GFM
You mean whatever fan is driving the air past the coils which is NOT necessarily the "indoor" Blower....RIGHT???
It is the indoor blower.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman , Not always Pal^!!^
I thought colder removes more moisture should give lower humidity no?
Yes, Lower fan speed means higher temp drop across the coil. More temp drop, the more moisture removed. When the temp rises to ambient, humidity is lower.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for the quick replay! Wow greatly appreciated
I checked the gyrometer and it's about 50% humidity while the indoor temperature is 74 degree since I set the thermostat to 74. My house have 1,500 sq of living space inside. I have 4 ton installed last week. I had to set it to low speed to prevent too much air flow in the duct. However, it run for about like 5 to 10 minutes depending on how hot it is outside, sometimes longer and then it go off and stay off for about another 8 to 20 minutes. Is it too big and that I need to downgrade back to 3.5 ton or is it about right? I'm from Pensacola Florida.
I can't determine sizing on comments. The cycling seems about normal.
GFM
Wayne Wallace unfortunately it looks like and sounds like your unit is oversized. 3.5 should have been fine. If this was my house I would speed up the fan that will help with the short cycling issues and give your unit a better chance at surviving. You might want to look into a portable dehumidifier as well. Good luck guy hope it works out my 1800sq house has a 3.5 and it’s an old home 57s and in FL.
@@jaredgoins7000 Thank you so much for the update. I'm please for the update information from you. I'm looking to get it back to 3.5 ton by changing the outside and not the inside. Would that hurt anything? Also, right now, at 74 degree, the air temp out of the air vent is 52 to 54 degree. Is that how could it supposed to be? I measured that temperature with the gun as in your picture. Also, the unit stayed off at night and come back on for another six to ten minutes. It stayed off at about 15 minutes. Is that still oversized? I hope you don't mind the followup. Let me know. Thanks.
Wayne Wallace do you have the capability of checking your pressures and temps? Or checking amp draw? What size duct work?
@@jaredgoins7000 I don't know how to do that one.
Isn't the cycle shorter with a higher fan speed?
Not necessarily. The unit is the same capacity.
GFM
Can fan speed produce condensation in the duct work that would cause cans to leak?
Autonomous Prime It can if the duct is uninsulated and in a space that is colder than the indoor temperature. Also, if the ducting is down flow, the coil may drip into the ductwork. Hope this helps.
GFM
Autonomous Prime if the duct is going through an unconditioned space, i believe it would.
condensation happens when energy(heat) passes into a cooler object but the moisture cannot.
So if you want to reduce the humidity level in the structure you run the blower on a higher speed? I think that is what you were saying.
+johnmiller102 Actually, lower fan speed will lower the temperature of the evap coil. The lower temperature will remove more moisture from the air. Hope this helps.
GFM
Your video shows R.H going higher with a lower CFM. I realize the lower temp on lower CFM raises the R.H., but then how are we removing more humidity at lower CFM?
Because more water volume is removed.
GFM
Still hard to comprehend, I would think the RH would be lower at lower CFM because you are removing more water, more so than the slight increase in Delta T. Is it because of the increase in Delta T that is increasing the RH. I know you are right but it's weird??
No. A lower fan speed removes more moisture from the air, thus lower humidity.
GFM
So if I lower my fan speed I do 2 things I lower the A coil temperature and remove more moisture from the house right which could lower my power bill to right?
I would never make that jump. The primary reason for lower fan speed is to remove more moisture to avoid high humidity in the structure for mold problems.
GFM
GRAY . WHEN BLOWER RUNNING LOW SPEED REMOVE MORE HUMIDITY FROM D ROOM
That is correct.
GFM
+Luis Veras Why are you shouting?
You probably don’t have a TXV on the coil and that’s why the humidity goes up when fan speed goes down. One needs to drop fan speed when tstat is almost satisfied (within 2 degrees). So, even if you don’t have a 2 speed compressor, you can use a 2 stage tstat and wire a lower fan speed to the Y1 circuit.
Bran Kind i have a goodman air handler with 5 speed taps if I get a two stage thermostat how could I connect this to switch to a lower blower speed? I have currently have a four wire setup leading to the thermostat but I could run more wires of needed
Ricardo Bhoorasingh You'd need a PC board with humidity control or a separate fan relay
From my understanding I think he’s from Indiana I could tell just the way he talks mmhmm