Thanks. I like your idea of using the carpet grip, others use bubble wrap but I like the way you do it.Oh and genius using the string line to cut the brim.
Thank you ever so much! 💐This is deffinitly the best tutorial I've seen amongst many! You explain in such a delightfully tidy and fine manor (not using extra attention seeking time..) that gives me hope and inspiration🌞 Lots of love💝 from our sheepfarm in the mountains of Norway, just starting to learn filting😃👍🐑🐑🐑❤ Elisabeth
Thank you very much. I appreciate the kind words. I also have watched many videos, getting tips through much yada yada. Everyone has something valuable to share. I'm glad I could share my mistakes & what I've learned.
I'm so happy to see someone who made a video about wet felting a hat to put on a hat block, from start to finish. :) I really liked the color choices along with the style of the form. I do hope you make more hat videos. I have been doing some wet felting for a little while and I would love to make a hat like that some day. :) Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Hey thanks. Some of these bright colors are meant for the person with flare. I am tending to put the jazzy patterns inside, for those more private of their exuberance.
Great video, made my first wet felt today, too thick, overworked before stretching and too small. That was my feeling. Interesting to see you made a two sided piece to start and not a single flat. What beautiful hands you have.
Mistakes are good for learning. That's how I approach each piece. I call it an experiment and see what comes of it. If it doesn't pan out, no biggy. I can typically re-purpose the experiment. For example, I use the scaps/cut offs from my hats to make small carpets. I hand sew them together. Your felt hat could be used in a similar fashion. Or turn it into a pot holder or something. Thanks for the compliments on my hands. They get a lot of use. A massage therapist by trade, I think the skills transferred well to wet felting.
Thanks. I don't have tons of cash falling out of my pockets, so I try to use my imagination as to what I could use or make, instead of buying....for what I need. Creative thinking. Also, there is so much stuff around that can serve more than one purpose.
@@bodyofknowledge101 Thanks for the reply! I completely understand and I am all the way with you! And even if I don't have much cash, I actually do not want the money tree to be invented... ;) . Fair does to your unique creative approach, granny style! Keep it up and take care!
I'm not sure if there is a specific pattern. You would need a shape that accommodates the specific size of head, crown & brim. I've used the same basic shape of pattern for most of my hats. Lengthening the crown or the brim slope of the resist pattern as needed.
help! I have made some pieces of flat felt and tried two hats. I am working with wool carded from fleeces given to me raw. I carded twice , some three times, but the roving is much coarser than yours looks, and the hats get BIGGER not smaller, when I felt them.... I have pressed and rolled for about 3 hours. Felt is a bit uneven too. Any advice? your hats are beautiful. Congratulations!
Yikes, I'm not sure what to suggest as I've never worked with raw wool before. I've just met a felter who raises her own sheep. I'll try and reconnect with her and get some ideas for you.
Room temperature is fine. It will just likely take longer than with hot water. The agitation & heat both assist in the matting of the fibres. I've seen quite a few recommendations for HOT water. As hot as can be tolerated by the hands. The heat is beneficial in that it will also help tighten/join the fibres. So the process of matting/felting will be sped up. If you have ever washed a wool sweater in hot water, or put one in the dryer, you'll have likely resulted in a mini version of the item. The heat and agitation have bound the fibres tighter and the garment has shrunk. Hope this helps. Happy felting.
In my own experience by the time you remove the resist you already have felt. So there are few loose fibers to grab onto, I like to rub a little soap on the inside after I remove my resist to prevent it as well. I hope that makes sense :)
Because the fibers are already dealing with their own stuff, attaching with the elusive other side becomes increasingly harder compared to deepening their bonds with the stuff they're already worked into.
My partner makes my blocks now. I originally started with found objects - spheres, vases, bowls, etc. Something sturdy and the circumference & depth of your head. For actual hat blocks you can check ebay and other such sites. Millinery shops also have a supply of forms for sale: Judith M. & Manhatco are a couple in the states. Thrift, curio/antique shops may hide a treasure too.
I think so. I've never made one before. I'd suggest a triangular shape to the crown portion of your resist pattern. Plus a wider brim section. Or do the brim separately. When the resist is removed and the hood is set over an appropriate form, it will open up and dry in a three dimension cone shape....a witches hat. You can hand shape the wet hood or perhaps stuff it to create the desired shape and creases. Light stitches could also be used to hold the hood in the proper shape while drying. Removed or not when dry. The brim might need a wire to help it maintain it's shape for wearing. This can be sewn in when you finish the edge of the brim.
You are correct. Real wool, from sheep is necessary. Some commercial manufacturers can make felt out of synthetics but for wet felting by hand, use natural fibres. I've incorporated small pieces of synthetic yarn into some work but it doesn't bind that well.
I suspect that you might need to keep agitating/working the wool for a longer time. The agitation helps with binding the wool roving closer. I stop when I see puckering of the blended roving. Warmer/hotter water would help also. If you ever accidentally put a wool garment in the washing machine, or even hand washed a wool item with too warm water it shrinks/binds. Try that.
@@bodyofknowledge101 Thank you for your quick response. I was unclear in my question. I was referring to the initial wetting when the wool seems to stretch away from the resist and not hug it securely. I had trouble not having a bulky seam to deal with that sort of stood upright. But I managed to work it into the design and the hat came out perfect, sold almost immediately on FB of all things, and now I have orders for two more. Thanks for for very informative videos. Oh, and I am not know as a hatmaker - I guess I am now - so thank YOU!
I guess it depends where you live. A good quality yarn store will likely have a section of ROVING. I live in Sechelt in BC, and we have a few local craft people who sell roving. "Unwind" is the name of one store here. She will mail order also. When I go to a larger town like Vancouver or Victoria, there are a few wool/knitting/fibre shops that sell roving too. A braid is a couple of ounces in weight. Can cost $8 or so. 3 braids or about 6oz needed to make a hat. Naughty by Nature in Victoria, Bee Hive wool shop. I get bulk brown or white roving from a First Nations store in Victoria also. A better deal to buy in pounds not ounces Local farmers,spinners or weaving groups may also help. Try craft section Craig`s list Custom Wool Mills in Alberta has a website and you can order online. Larger quantity and better prices. I find amazon and ebay offers to be too pricey.
That depends too. I started out using found objects. Bowls, balls, balloons, vases. Anything that you could imagine as a hat shape. I am fortunate in that my husband, Roger is a wood carver. When I got interested in making hats, I thought he could make the blocks. That`s what we have been doing. He also makes blocks for others by order when he has the time. You can find blocks on ebay and there are professional hat block makers around the globe. Also millinery shops will have a selection. Judith M. Manhatco .
I suspect you will be able to find many used blocks in your area. Many hat makers in the history of the city and region. A few years ago I saw ad advert for an inventory of hundreds of old hat blocks for sale in Montreal. They may have filtered into the public domain.
A resist is a template/pattern I use to lay the wool roving on. It could be cardboard, foam, bubble wrap. Something that the felt will not stick to when being matted together. I have a video on how I measure one out. I believe it is one of my earlier videos.
My advice is to watch as many videos as you can. This is how I learned to make hats. Watch. Experiment and learn from your results. good luck and have fun.
You could look into paper making as that using all plant fibres. Old paper all mashed up and reformed. Paper is ubiquitous. Likely free. Perhaps investigate this lead. Not sure what the problem is with using wool from sheep. The animals are not killed and the removal of hair/wool if done by a skilled worked is not a harm to the animal. Sheep love and need to be sheared. Roger has tended sheep over many years. If the sheep were not sheared it would be a detriment to them. Overburdened with weight so they cannot move or breathe freely. Just google sheep care. I've made felt from hair carded from a dog. Again no harm done to the animal. And you are being resourceful with otherwise wasted hair. My old cat's hair also seems to mats nicely in her favorite pillow. Both were both dull colors. Considering dread locks are a form of felted matted, you could collect your own hair from a brush, comb or grow your own dread locks. I've a collection of such hair, pulled from a brush. I suspect over time you could acquire a batch of hair to acquire enough material for a hat. Good luck and enjoy experimenting
Хобби
Thanks. I like your idea of using the carpet grip, others use bubble wrap but I like the way you do it.Oh and genius using the string line to cut the brim.
It looked so cool when you were setting the dry felt! Love your tutorials.
Wow these videos are so helpful and inspiring! Thank you!
Thank you ever so much! 💐This is deffinitly the best tutorial I've seen amongst many! You explain in such a delightfully tidy and fine manor (not using extra attention seeking time..) that gives me hope and inspiration🌞
Lots of love💝 from our sheepfarm in the mountains of Norway, just starting to learn filting😃👍🐑🐑🐑❤
Elisabeth
Thank you very much. I appreciate the kind words. I also have watched many videos, getting tips through much yada yada. Everyone has something valuable to share. I'm glad I could share my mistakes & what I've learned.
Thank you SO much! I have learned a ton!
I'm so happy to see someone who made a video about wet felting a hat to put on a hat block, from start to finish. :) I really liked the color choices along with the style of the form. I do hope you make more hat videos. I have been doing some wet felting for a little while and I would love to make a hat like that some day. :) Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Those are some mix beautiful colors.....I think Boy-George would love to buy that hat to match his blue eyes...LOL
Hey thanks. Some of these bright colors are meant for the person with flare.
I am tending to put the jazzy patterns inside, for those more private of their exuberance.
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
Great video, made my first wet felt today, too thick, overworked before stretching and too small. That was my feeling. Interesting to see you made a two sided piece to start and not a single flat. What beautiful hands you have.
Mistakes are good for learning. That's how I approach each piece. I call it an experiment and see what comes of it. If it doesn't pan out, no biggy. I can typically re-purpose the experiment. For example, I use the scaps/cut offs from my hats to make small carpets. I hand sew them together. Your felt hat could be used in a similar fashion. Or turn it into a pot holder or something.
Thanks for the compliments on my hands. They get a lot of use. A massage therapist by trade, I think the skills transferred well to wet felting.
clever lady! love the way you reuse granny style vases, ashtrays and the lot! excellent!!! It really is the best wool agitator..really amazing idea!!1
Thanks. I don't have tons of cash falling out of my pockets, so I try to use my imagination as to what I could use or make, instead of buying....for what I need. Creative thinking. Also, there is so much stuff around that can serve more than one purpose.
@@bodyofknowledge101 Thanks for the reply! I completely understand and I am all the way with you! And even if I don't have much cash, I actually do not want the money tree to be invented... ;) . Fair does to your unique creative approach, granny style! Keep it up and take care!
lindo trabajo, me gustaría ver un tutorial de la realización de una bohina
Thanks!!
great job
Hi Brigette!
Is there a specific pattern to make a wide-brimmed Derby hat?
I'm not sure if there is a specific pattern. You would need a shape that accommodates the specific size of head, crown & brim. I've used the same basic shape of pattern for most of my hats. Lengthening the crown or the brim slope of the resist pattern as needed.
Where to get the hat mold?
help! I have made some pieces of flat felt and tried two hats. I am working with wool carded from fleeces given to me raw. I carded twice , some three times, but the roving is much coarser than yours looks, and the hats get BIGGER not smaller, when I felt them.... I have pressed and rolled for about 3 hours. Felt is a bit uneven too. Any advice? your hats are beautiful. Congratulations!
Yikes, I'm not sure what to suggest as I've never worked with raw wool before. I've just met a felter who raises her own sheep. I'll try and reconnect with her and get some ideas for you.
is there a particular temperature for the soapy water? or is room temperature good?
Room temperature is fine. It will just likely take longer than with hot water. The agitation & heat both assist in the matting of the fibres. I've seen quite a few recommendations for HOT water. As hot as can be tolerated by the hands. The heat is beneficial in that it will also help tighten/join the fibres. So the process of matting/felting will be sped up. If you have ever washed a wool sweater in hot water, or put one in the dryer, you'll have likely resulted in a mini version of the item. The heat and agitation have bound the fibres tighter and the garment has shrunk. Hope this helps. Happy felting.
how about part 3??
How come when you remove the resist, the sides of the hat don't start sticking to each other as you keep agitating it?
In my own experience by the time you remove the resist you already have felt. So there are few loose fibers to grab onto, I like to rub a little soap on the inside after I remove my resist to prevent it as well. I hope that makes sense :)
Because the fibers are already dealing with their own stuff, attaching with the elusive other side becomes increasingly harder compared to deepening their bonds with the stuff they're already worked into.
Can you let the cone dry without shaping it and remolded it later with vapeur?
Oh that's a good question, I hope she answers!
Wow, sorry for not seeing this earlier...yes.....if your cone gets dry it should be fine to rework it if you wet it down again with warm soapy water.
Thank you…!!
where can I find affordaboble wood forms like yours????
My partner makes my blocks now. I originally started with found objects - spheres, vases, bowls, etc. Something sturdy and the circumference & depth of your head. For actual hat blocks you can check ebay and other such sites. Millinery shops also have a supply of forms for sale: Judith M. & Manhatco are a couple in the states. Thrift, curio/antique shops may hide a treasure too.
could I follow this to make a witch hat?
I think so. I've never made one before. I'd suggest a triangular shape to the crown portion of your resist pattern. Plus a wider brim section. Or do the brim separately. When the resist is removed and the hood is set over an appropriate form, it will open up and dry in a three dimension cone shape....a witches hat. You can hand shape the wet hood or perhaps stuff it to create the desired shape and creases. Light stitches could also be used to hold the hood in the proper shape while drying. Removed or not when dry. The brim might need a wire to help it maintain it's shape for wearing. This can be sewn in when you finish the edge of the brim.
It cannot be made using acrylic wool, right?
You are correct. Real wool, from sheep is necessary. Some commercial manufacturers can make felt out of synthetics but for wet felting by hand, use natural fibres. I've incorporated small pieces of synthetic yarn into some work but it doesn't bind that well.
I have trouble getting the wool to snuggly fit the resist. I find the wool stretches before shrinking, so it doesn't hug the resist. Can you help?
I suspect that you might need to keep agitating/working the wool for a longer time. The agitation helps with binding the wool roving closer. I stop when I see puckering of the blended roving. Warmer/hotter water would help also. If you ever accidentally put a wool garment in the washing machine, or even hand washed a wool item with too warm water it shrinks/binds. Try that.
@@bodyofknowledge101 Thank you for your quick response. I was unclear in my question. I was referring to the initial wetting when the wool seems to stretch away from the resist and not hug it securely. I had trouble not having a bulky seam to deal with that sort of stood upright. But I managed to work it into the design and the hat came out perfect, sold almost immediately on FB of all things, and now I have orders for two more. Thanks for for very informative videos. Oh, and I am not know as a hatmaker - I guess I am now - so thank YOU!
Good ...thanksssssssssss...100000000
😍🔥
Where does someone buy the wool for felting? Is it expensive?
Also the mold/shape/block thingy, where is it acquired and how much does it cost?
I guess it depends where you live. A good quality yarn store will likely have a section of ROVING. I live in Sechelt in BC, and we have a few local craft people who sell roving. "Unwind" is the name of one store here. She will mail order also.
When I go to a larger town like Vancouver or Victoria, there are a few wool/knitting/fibre shops that sell roving too. A braid is a couple of ounces in weight. Can cost $8 or so. 3 braids or about 6oz needed to make a hat.
Naughty by Nature in Victoria, Bee Hive wool shop. I get bulk brown or white roving from a First Nations store in Victoria also. A better deal to buy in pounds not ounces
Local farmers,spinners or weaving groups may also help.
Try craft section Craig`s list
Custom Wool Mills in Alberta has a website and you can order online. Larger quantity and better prices.
I find amazon and ebay offers to be too pricey.
Thanks a lot! I'll be looking for a shop in my town (Montreal) for the next few days.
What about the block?
That depends too. I started out using found objects. Bowls, balls, balloons, vases. Anything that you could imagine as a hat shape. I am fortunate in that my husband, Roger is a wood carver. When I got interested in making hats, I thought he could make the blocks. That`s what we have been doing. He also makes blocks for others by order when he has the time. You can find blocks on ebay and there are professional hat block makers around the globe. Also millinery shops will have a selection. Judith M. Manhatco .
I suspect you will be able to find many used blocks in your area. Many hat makers in the history of the city and region. A few years ago I saw ad advert for an inventory of hundreds of old hat blocks for sale in Montreal. They may have filtered into the public domain.
What is a resist pattern?
A resist is a template/pattern I use to lay the wool roving on. It could be cardboard, foam, bubble wrap. Something that the felt will not stick to when being matted together. I have a video on how I measure one out. I believe it is one of my earlier videos.
🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️
Mi piacerebbe molto provarci grazie è comunque ben visibile ci proverò lo stesso
My advice is to watch as many videos as you can. This is how I learned to make hats. Watch. Experiment and learn from your results. good luck and have fun.
I want to start making hats using this process but I'm vegan so wont use wool.. is there no other alternative?
You could look into paper making as that using all plant fibres. Old paper all mashed up and reformed. Paper is ubiquitous. Likely free. Perhaps investigate this lead.
Not sure what the problem is with using wool from sheep. The animals are not killed and the removal of hair/wool if done by a skilled worked is not a harm to the animal. Sheep love and need to be sheared. Roger has tended sheep over many years. If the sheep were not sheared it would be a detriment to them. Overburdened with weight so they cannot move or breathe freely. Just google sheep care.
I've made felt from hair carded from a dog. Again no harm done to the animal. And you are being resourceful with otherwise wasted hair. My old cat's hair also seems to mats nicely in her favorite pillow. Both were both dull colors.
Considering dread locks are a form of felted matted, you could collect your own hair from a brush, comb or grow your own dread locks. I've a collection of such hair, pulled from a brush. I suspect over time you could acquire a batch of hair to acquire enough material for a hat.
Good luck and enjoy experimenting
Загуглите Ирина Спасская, вот где WOW! И никаких болванок! Все шляпки из формы для берета!
I do not undestand english