I appreciate your response. I've caught a lot of "flak" because I guess I'm not selling anything, and I dare say the stock suspension are a great suspension, they just need tuning. After buying and running the Elka stage 5s, I can honestly say the stock are just as good, if not better. I feel I wasted $3,500 on these oversold, under tested Elka's. They are a "game changer", they're a waste of money. They're not a true dual rate as they don't even come with a crossover nut, so you're not going to use the main spring until the tender spring completely compresses. I tried calling Elka once a day, for 5 days in a row, leaving messages each time I have yet, (and know will never) to get a response. I'm just trying to keep others from making my mistake, and not buy the "cfmoto suspension is junk straight from the factory" bullshit. Put a little work in adjusting, and save a ton of money. Cheers
I just picked up a 23 HO EX and thought the suspension seemed stiff. I can't thank you enough. CF Moto should pay you for explaining this to their customers. I bet if more people new this info they would sell even more machines or better yet people that own one would not want to sell to upgrade. I love going fast also but nothing beats great soft ride.
I'm glad it helped. I had already ordered my Elka stage 5s BEFORE I figured out these settings and once I put my $3,500 Elka's on, I sadly found out I could not get them dialed in. The factory ones rode better. It was such a disappointment and waste of money. It was always the rear end. I would implore anybody to stick with the stock and not make the same mistake i made. Cheers
Thank you. I've had dozen of guys have great luck with it. I bought the stage 5 Elka's and the regret and disappointment had been immense. The front are nice but my rear ride like a lumber wagon. Ain't much if any better than stock once the stock are adjusted properly. I've had several guys message me with the same issues with the Elka's.
I just adjusted my suspension and want to let everybody know that you can remove the rear air intake on the 950 EX HO, and it makes taking off the suspension easy.
Good info. I'm glad you found my video helpful. Sadly, I bought the elka stage 5s and they are an absolute disappointment. I honestly feel my stock suspension was set up better than the Elka's. Furthermore, I tried calling Elka in Canada 5 times, once each day, 5 days in a row, seeking help with my issues. Each time I received a message saying "they're busy helping other customers, please leave your name and number, and we'll get back to you." I never received a call back. Absolute horseshit customer service. It was the largest waste of money I spent on my machine.
if it was'nt for smart guys sharing the knowledge the have aquired about machines that so many of us have we could be lost or at least making blunders because it is almost impossible to find a shop manual on the CF950 HO EX to guide us thru the jungle. Thank You sir.
You are welcome. Yeah, I'm sad to say I have given up on my z950 ho ex and sold it last week. It was a great entry-level machine, but I bought a can am x3 maverick. The next chapter begins
Yeah not always, but I do like to open it up when I can. After having 2 cfmotos, my frustration with their support, literally every clutch needing aftermarket work to make them adequate, and the limited accessories, it's just time to move on. Then new ones released yesterday look promising, but what new issues will arise, and how long until parts are available? Time will tell.
Well you're welcome. Don't forget the air pressure 1st. Yeah it's crazy and overwhelming coming from a mono shock on my old uforce and ranger before that, to these shocks.
Thank you very much for the explaination, it is very helpful. do you recommend to install dfferent tires on the stock wheels, if yes please give me the tires size.
I went to 32x10x14. No mods needed, but more strain on the drivetrain. Could void a warranty if failure as a result of the larger tires. You'll also have to switch the clutching and helix at that size. I'd stay stock, maybe go 30x10x14, but it's all personal use and preference. I liked the 32s but the added center of gravity and extra work i had to do on clutches and a helix got expensive.
Tighten the high speed all the way up to the second to the last click tighten the low speed all the way up to the second from the last click loosen your rebound all the way loose tighten your rear springs a half inch works perfect on the HO EX thank you
There's a lot of variables that come in to play. One size doesn't fit all, for sure. Weight is a huge factor on the preload. There's tons of adjust, the bad is that it's only roughly 10" of travel.
I loaded mine with spare tire, spare gas tank, spare water tank, tool kit, etc and the stock springs are Way to compressed. Ordered new springs from Good Ol Boy Offroad in Tenessee and get all my ride height back. Much better with the load I carry.
Yeah that's great info. The tender spring isn't even close to what it should be. I ordered elka stage 5s and have nothing but regret with them. I wish I would've pursued changing the springs on the stock ones, because I really feel like I've wasted $3,500.
@@ironheadbiker I looked at Elka and it would have costed me more for the shocks than I paid for the vehicle so I went with a cheaper alternative. Took it for it's first ride today and it was Fantastic!
Hello. The front suspension of the model you have is burst. How much and at what value should I add oil after repairing? Do you have any information? Thank you.
So your bottom should be your rebound, and your top will be just basic compression dampening. Still counterclockwise for softer, clockwise for stiffer.
The top bolts on the back shocks, can I get them from underneath or do I have to pull the seats and remove the back cover? I'm bottoming out in deep whoops, mainly the rear. Got my high speed all the way tight, rebound all the way loose and haven't touched the low speed yet. I do notice the side to side floating you mentioned and the rear squatting on acceleration. Gonna tighten up the low speeds. Had a wildcat that bottomed out the same way. Cranked the preload down half inch and it solved it. Thanks for the reply. Mostly do fast aggressive trail riding. Tires are at 9-10 psi
I was able to reach everything from the floor underneath. And yes, the low speed affects more than you would think as well. Also with the side to side wandering, don't be afraid to run in for wheel drive. With both rear tires locked in, as soon as they spin, they want to "pass", skidding or spinning tires will choose a side because they're faster than a tire that's got traction. You'll be amazed at the control you gain in having the 4x4 in. Think rally car. As your rear tires spin the front will pull you to keep you straight.
I need to tighten my preload on all four shocks is there a trick to it or how do you take the shocks off the buggy is there an easy way everything looks tucked up in there real tight and not very accessible
It can been done on the machine, but tricky. I took mine off, just a bolt on top and bottom. Lift the machine and get the weight off. You need good spanner wrenches, not the cheap tool kit one. I used a ratchet strap to compress the spring to take the pressure off of the top retaining nut. Clean the threads as best you can, loosen the locking nut and then spin the lower nut down. Measure the lowest part of the nut to the top of the spring to make sure both sides get adjusted the same. It can be done on the machine, but it's tough to get a wrench up in there. If you try to do it while it's on the machine, put the ratchet strap on the springs while it's sitting on the ground, then when you lift the machine, the tension will already be relieved. When you release the ratchet, make sure the spring is seated properly in the stopper nut.
I have one and can't agree with all the comments more. Thank you for sharing all your hard work!!
I appreciate your response. I've caught a lot of "flak" because I guess I'm not selling anything, and I dare say the stock suspension are a great suspension, they just need tuning. After buying and running the Elka stage 5s, I can honestly say the stock are just as good, if not better. I feel I wasted $3,500 on these oversold, under tested Elka's. They are a "game changer", they're a waste of money. They're not a true dual rate as they don't even come with a crossover nut, so you're not going to use the main spring until the tender spring completely compresses. I tried calling Elka once a day, for 5 days in a row, leaving messages each time I have yet, (and know will never) to get a response. I'm just trying to keep others from making my mistake, and not buy the "cfmoto suspension is junk straight from the factory" bullshit. Put a little work in adjusting, and save a ton of money. Cheers
I just picked up a 23 HO EX and thought the suspension seemed stiff. I can't thank you enough. CF Moto should pay you for explaining this to their customers. I bet if more people new this info they would sell even more machines or better yet people that own one would not want to sell to upgrade. I love going fast also but nothing beats great soft ride.
I'm glad it helped. I had already ordered my Elka stage 5s BEFORE I figured out these settings and once I put my $3,500 Elka's on, I sadly found out I could not get them dialed in. The factory ones rode better. It was such a disappointment and waste of money. It was always the rear end. I would implore anybody to stick with the stock and not make the same mistake i made. Cheers
Great video! Had mine for a year and never adjusted. Got a feeling this is going to be a game changer. You made it very easy to understand.
Thank you. I've had dozen of guys have great luck with it. I bought the stage 5 Elka's and the regret and disappointment had been immense. The front are nice but my rear ride like a lumber wagon. Ain't much if any better than stock once the stock are adjusted properly. I've had several guys message me with the same issues with the Elka's.
I just adjusted my suspension and want to let everybody know that you can remove the rear air intake on the 950 EX HO, and it makes taking off the suspension easy.
Good info. I'm glad you found my video helpful. Sadly, I bought the elka stage 5s and they are an absolute disappointment. I honestly feel my stock suspension was set up better than the Elka's. Furthermore, I tried calling Elka in Canada 5 times, once each day, 5 days in a row, seeking help with my issues. Each time I received a message saying "they're busy helping other customers, please leave your name and number, and we'll get back to you." I never received a call back. Absolute horseshit customer service. It was the largest waste of money I spent on my machine.
if it was'nt for smart guys sharing the knowledge the have aquired about machines that so many of us have we could be lost or at least making blunders because it is almost impossible to find a shop manual on the CF950 HO EX to guide us thru the jungle. Thank You sir.
You are welcome. Yeah, I'm sad to say I have given up on my z950 ho ex and sold it last week. It was a great entry-level machine, but I bought a can am x3 maverick. The next chapter begins
@@ironheadbiker you are a speed freak, I get it. Enjoy, (and you will), your new ride. I live in the desert and the CF is great for me .Have Fun!!
Yeah not always, but I do like to open it up when I can. After having 2 cfmotos, my frustration with their support, literally every clutch needing aftermarket work to make them adequate, and the limited accessories, it's just time to move on. Then new ones released yesterday look promising, but what new issues will arise, and how long until parts are available? Time will tell.
Thank you. This has been much needed info.
You are welcome. I felt with so many machines out there, I'd share what I learned over a long frustrating process.
Yup, always in 4x4, more predictable. Thank you for all your input. Gonna get er done now....
NP. Good luck.
Thank you I’ve been trying to understand the shock setup
This should get you close. Thank you
@@ironheadbiker no thank you I was getting close to calling dealer to figure out the shocks until I saw ur video.
Well you're welcome. Don't forget the air pressure 1st. Yeah it's crazy and overwhelming coming from a mono shock on my old uforce and ranger before that, to these shocks.
U know if it’s same on the 2023 cos I have blue and red knobs for high n low
Mine is a 2023, so I'm sure they're the same. They'll be marked hs and ls.
Thank you very much for the explaination, it is very helpful. do you recommend to install dfferent tires on the stock wheels, if yes please give me the tires size.
I went to 32x10x14. No mods needed, but more strain on the drivetrain. Could void a warranty if failure as a result of the larger tires. You'll also have to switch the clutching and helix at that size. I'd stay stock, maybe go 30x10x14, but it's all personal use and preference. I liked the 32s but the added center of gravity and extra work i had to do on clutches and a helix got expensive.
Tighten the high speed all the way up to the second to the last click tighten the low speed all the way up to the second from the last click loosen your rebound all the way loose tighten your rear springs a half inch works perfect on the HO EX thank you
There's a lot of variables that come in to play. One size doesn't fit all, for sure. Weight is a huge factor on the preload. There's tons of adjust, the bad is that it's only roughly 10" of travel.
I loaded mine with spare tire, spare gas tank, spare water tank, tool kit, etc and the stock springs are Way to compressed. Ordered new springs from Good Ol Boy Offroad in Tenessee and get all my ride height back. Much better with the load I carry.
Yeah that's great info. The tender spring isn't even close to what it should be. I ordered elka stage 5s and have nothing but regret with them. I wish I would've pursued changing the springs on the stock ones, because I really feel like I've wasted $3,500.
@@ironheadbiker I looked at Elka and it would have costed me more for the shocks than I paid for the vehicle so I went with a cheaper alternative. Took it for it's first ride today and it was Fantastic!
Good info here, and I wish I could put on other springs on mine
Thanks my Arctic friend! I think it's going to help a lot of guys who were like me looking for not only how, but "why" You adjust all of these.
Hello. The front suspension of the model you have is burst. How much and at what value should I add oil after repairing? Do you have any information? Thank you.
brother i have a 2023 sport HO mine has a sinle nob on bottom like the top nobs but just one
So your bottom should be your rebound, and your top will be just basic compression dampening. Still counterclockwise for softer, clockwise for stiffer.
The top bolts on the back shocks, can I get them from underneath or do I have to pull the seats and remove the back cover? I'm bottoming out in deep whoops, mainly the rear. Got my high speed all the way tight, rebound all the way loose and haven't touched the low speed yet. I do notice the side to side floating you mentioned and the rear squatting on acceleration. Gonna tighten up the low speeds. Had a wildcat that bottomed out the same way. Cranked the preload down half inch and it solved it. Thanks for the reply. Mostly do fast aggressive trail riding. Tires are at 9-10 psi
I was able to reach everything from the floor underneath. And yes, the low speed affects more than you would think as well. Also with the side to side wandering, don't be afraid to run in for wheel drive. With both rear tires locked in, as soon as they spin, they want to "pass", skidding or spinning tires will choose a side because they're faster than a tire that's got traction. You'll be amazed at the control you gain in having the 4x4 in. Think rally car. As your rear tires spin the front will pull you to keep you straight.
I need to tighten my preload on all four shocks is there a trick to it or how do you take the shocks off the buggy is there an easy way everything looks tucked up in there real tight and not very accessible
It can been done on the machine, but tricky. I took mine off, just a bolt on top and bottom. Lift the machine and get the weight off. You need good spanner wrenches, not the cheap tool kit one. I used a ratchet strap to compress the spring to take the pressure off of the top retaining nut. Clean the threads as best you can, loosen the locking nut and then spin the lower nut down. Measure the lowest part of the nut to the top of the spring to make sure both sides get adjusted the same. It can be done on the machine, but it's tough to get a wrench up in there. If you try to do it while it's on the machine, put the ratchet strap on the springs while it's sitting on the ground, then when you lift the machine, the tension will already be relieved. When you release the ratchet, make sure the spring is seated properly in the stopper nut.
It's a 2023 h o e x