Thanks for this quick and simple test /demonstration . Just checked Ford Falcon Barra 6cyl 4 liter showing on the 2k mark a total of 349 , yes we have found the problem. Cheers Ian
Have a po302 doing all the troubleshooting. All swaps done didn't follow. Compression and leakdown all good. Gonna test crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor
Would this work on my 2016 jeep Cherokee? It’s a 3 prong 3 wire sensor I got it out the vehicle but don’t know if I can test this way because it’s 3 prong
Best to the point video on the web! Does it matter which side you apply the positive and negative test leads? In other words if I cross them incorrectly, can I damage my sensor?
@@bradauto I removed the Timing belt cover to gain access to my Camshaft position sensor, ran the Ohms meter on 2k and it did give a reading back. I assume it can be tested the same as the crankshaft position sensor? Would you mind assisting me? I'm stumped for 3 weeks on my '97 4runner. Here is the video I uploaded to my youtube channel on what happened and what bench tests I have performed thus far trying to diagnose it without including testing the C.P.S. of the which I just did: ruclips.net/video/4AfZ7ZS9Qx8/видео.html Let me know if you have any ideas on what this could be? I'm down to guessing the crankshaft position sensor?
Hello; does this method work the same for a 3 wire hall effect type sensor? If I remove my CPS from my vehicle and bench test it with my ohm meter at 2k, should I get a reading? Or does it need to have battery power? 1996 Chevy C1500 5.7L V8.
No the Hall effect is different- a test I used to do was was take the 3pin plug off the distributor then put a wire in the centre terminal on the plug. If you then flash that wire to Earth you should get a spark from the coil. If you get a spark it means your HE is faulty. This worked on Vauxhall/Opel but you would need to check it’s okay on your Chevy
In theory yes, the sensor has to supply a good signal which isn’t measured by just resistance. Also they can test ok but break down under work due to heat or electro magnetic interference
Yes ... (the folloowing is personal experience from my 2007 Volvo V70) The thing to look for on the tester is "missing signal" vs "fallty signal" Missing signal is easy. It is stonedead as the first one in this video, but faulty signal, can meassure quite OK on the multimeter and still be bad.
Hi! I am having a hardtime with mine Honda civic 2003. I replaced the crankshaft sensor twice already and the code still the, but first before changing them the code was P0335 and Now after I changed the sensors the code is P0336. I also ended up replacing the Hardness still did not worked. Can you please give a good tip. Thank you
Hi Harry, what car is this on? That doesn’t sound too bad to me, but some sensors only fault in use, for example if it fits tight into the crankcase the engine block expands with heat and pinches the sensor causing it to fault. Unfortunately in the world of diagnostics very little is cut and dried.
@@AnythingEverythingGh google p0335 Sentra is found a post with a troubleshooter which looked quite comprehensive. Gives you expected readings at your plug which will help.
It is Iain, a great help, thanks mate. I tested the cam sensor on my 2004, Vauxhall Astra Envoy, 1.7cdti today. I've had the engine and box out of her doing timing belt, clutch, subframe and a tonne of work. Bitch doesn't want to start now, and I have diesel at the injectors. Rain stopped play but battery back on tomorrow and press on. I can get continuity on my wee, cheap multimeter(that has no beep) but i'm getting 679, I think. It's no giving me anything on any of the ohm scales, though, just infinity. Any clues? Going to crank her myself tomorrow, instead of Ol'boy, so that I can see if rev counter moving up to near 300 revs and maybe that'll tell if crank sensor reading. I'll probably have to take that out as well?
Sounds low but may be ok. Is there another sensor on the car that’s the same? If not try to find some data on line. Or try to get another sensor and test that one.
Excellent video.. done properly and straight to the point none of this beating around the bush for a quick fix!
Spot on, finally a quick and easy bench test. To the point and also very helpful. Thanks Chuck !!!!
Simple and effective way to test camshaft sensor. already applied it with crankshaft sensor and it also works. Thanks.
Great!!!
To the point, instead of first showing off your workshop and equipment, straighting your hair etc...
Just ABC...... done!
Hats off to you❤
Thanks for this quick and simple test /demonstration . Just checked Ford Falcon Barra 6cyl 4 liter showing on the 2k mark a total of 349 , yes we have found the problem. Cheers Ian
Great to the point video. Got mine fixed! Thanks!
which prongs were touched and how many prongs are there?
Thank you!! All the videos I seen about testing the sensor didn’t have detail about how much ohms it should have.
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video.. your way is better than the other peoples way which are so hard, so long and so complicated
Your presentation was a great help. Thanks a bunch!
This guy Knows his stuff. Thank YOU For a Great Vid.
Hey good stuff, doing this on my step sons 1992 Volvo, gotta keep the beast alive!
😆good luck
I just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate you and let you know that you are absolutely amazing. Keep it up and thank you so much 👍
You look like Connar Mc Gregor. Thank for the video
Have a po302 doing all the troubleshooting. All swaps done didn't follow. Compression and leakdown all good. Gonna test crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor
What about for a 3 prong sensor my friend? Where would you touch your multimeter prongs to?
A 3 pin sensor will have one screen pin- it will read nothing
Stupid question: Is there a - and + pin on the connecter and is it important to place the wires from the multimeter on the correct ones?
Nope. Easy as pie 🥧
Would this work on my 2016 jeep Cherokee? It’s a 3 prong 3 wire sensor I got it out the vehicle but don’t know if I can test this way because it’s 3 prong
One of them is prob just a screen. Two of them should give you the reading
Best to the point video on the web! Does it matter which side you apply the positive and negative test leads? In other words if I cross them incorrectly, can I damage my sensor?
No mate, readings will be the same and no chance of damage . Thankyou
@@bradauto I removed the Timing belt cover to gain access to my Camshaft position sensor, ran the Ohms meter on 2k and it did give a reading back. I assume it can be tested the same as the crankshaft position sensor? Would you mind assisting me? I'm stumped for 3 weeks on my '97 4runner. Here is the video I uploaded to my youtube channel on what happened and what bench tests I have performed thus far trying to diagnose it without including testing the C.P.S. of the which I just did:
ruclips.net/video/4AfZ7ZS9Qx8/видео.html
Let me know if you have any ideas on what this could be? I'm down to guessing the crankshaft position sensor?
Thanks for the video
Great video. There are alot of shitty videos on here. I'm glad I seen this proper video.
Thanks man good job..
Hello; does this method work the same for a 3 wire hall effect type sensor? If I remove my CPS from my vehicle and bench test it with my ohm meter at 2k, should I get a reading? Or does it need to have battery power? 1996 Chevy C1500 5.7L V8.
No the Hall effect is different- a test I used to do was was take the 3pin plug off the distributor then put a wire in the centre terminal on the plug. If you then flash that wire to Earth you should get a spark from the coil. If you get a spark it means your HE is faulty. This worked on Vauxhall/Opel but you would need to check it’s okay on your Chevy
@@bradauto okay, thank you!
Is it possible to have good resistance values, but it still be faulty?
In theory yes, the sensor has to supply a good signal which isn’t measured by just resistance. Also they can test ok but break down under work due to heat or electro magnetic interference
Yes ... (the folloowing is personal experience from my 2007 Volvo V70) The thing to look for on the tester is "missing signal" vs "fallty signal" Missing signal is easy. It is stonedead as the first one in this video, but faulty signal, can meassure quite OK on the multimeter and still be bad.
@@bradauto 2 wire or 3 which is ground.
My good friend could i do that same oums test with a map sensor?
No map sensors are different
How many ohms is the sensor supposed to read. When I put on 200 it doesn't read anything . But when I put on 2k it read 11.15
It depends on the sensor as they vary. Yours is reading around 1100 ohms which doesn’t seem too bad.
thank you
Thank you sir
🙏🏻 welcome
My stator flywheel was in peices and some dropped into the pan.. I have to pull it check it out .
Good day, do you have a video with testing the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector?
No as they are different, but typically you will be looking for a 5 volt feed an Earth and a third wire usually a screen - so no reading
@@bradauto, thanks, I’m learning the hard way.
I'm getting ~500 on 2000k but nothing on lower ones. Is the sensor bad?
Sounds like you are using too low a range on your ohmmeter?
If I have it on 2k Obams and it reads 0.466 is that good or bad?
That sounds a little low to me - I would be looking to check that against a known good sensor
Hi! I am having a hardtime with mine Honda civic 2003. I replaced the crankshaft sensor twice already and the code still the, but first before changing them the code was P0335 and Now after I changed the sensors the code is P0336. I also ended up replacing the Hardness still did not worked. Can you please give a good tip. Thank you
Hi- apparently these things suffer with rust buildup on the toothed ring. That’s the first place to go I’d say
@@bradauto Whats the Toothed ring or where is located? Thank you so much!
@@miltonmartinez6811 the ring on the crankshaft where the sensor reads from. The bit the end of the sensor sits next to 👍🏻
Hello mate, so if the crank sensor is measuring 500 ~600 ohms (2K ohms) it bad right, its throwing P0335 code too
Mine is three pin one
Hi Harry, what car is this on? That doesn’t sound too bad to me, but some sensors only fault in use, for example if it fits tight into the crankcase the engine block expands with heat and pinches the sensor causing it to fault. Unfortunately in the world of diagnostics very little is cut and dried.
Nissan sentra 2008, car cant start at all and its giving P0335 code which is the crankshaft
Hey thanks for the quick reply
@@AnythingEverythingGh google p0335 Sentra is found a post with a troubleshooter which looked quite comprehensive. Gives you expected readings at your plug which will help.
@@bradauto Thanks Ian, used your video to rule my sensor being the problem, my reading returned 950.
Am looking at a wiring problem
Is this a hall effect type?
If it is then this analogy can be used to check camshaft as well
My meter stayed on ol does that mean its bad
Yep
Thanks man I really appreciate it
Thanks man
Tenks bro😎💪
What about three prong sensors
Usually one of them will be a screen so won’t have any reading
If it measures 725 is that bad?
Doesn’t sound like a problem, what car is it
It is Iain, a great help, thanks mate. I tested the cam sensor on my 2004, Vauxhall Astra Envoy, 1.7cdti today. I've had the engine and box out of her doing timing belt, clutch, subframe and a tonne of work. Bitch doesn't want to start now, and I have diesel at the injectors. Rain stopped play but battery back on tomorrow and press on. I can get continuity on my wee, cheap multimeter(that has no beep) but i'm getting 679, I think. It's no giving me anything on any of the ohm scales, though, just infinity. Any clues? Going to crank her myself tomorrow, instead of Ol'boy, so that I can see if rev counter moving up to near 300 revs and maybe that'll tell if crank sensor reading. I'll probably have to take that out as well?
I'm going to do the pedal test tomorrow, Iain, as I doný have a scan tool. Thanks again mate:-)
Hi mate. Cam sensor probs won’t cause a non start. Defo test the crank sensor 👍🏻
Exellent
Ive got about 300 ohms on mine is tht bad?
Depends, what car is it?
What if I'm getting .450 oms thats half?
Sounds low but may be ok. Is there another sensor on the car that’s the same? If not try to find some data on line. Or try to get another sensor and test that one.
Is 20k okay???
is this Ketill Flatnose from Vikings?
I googled him - defo from the same clan 😄
Please is it hall effect type??
This test will give useable data on Hall effect and inductive pulse - this particular one is hall effect.
@@bradauto ok great
Was trying to work it out with hall effect
On whole youtube no body knows the location of crank shaft sensor in K6 Engine..why
K6 - the Suzuki engine?
if r.p.m not move when you start car = crankshaft sensor is damage . result the engine not work .
British greg Paul