Nice, heartfelt and down to earth review of both units! It's good sometimes to hear a review from just a regular guy, not so much a full time, dyed in the wool well seasoned welder. You are honest, right to the punch and are humble enough to admit errors on your part sometimes rather than blaming it on a machine. I'll look forward to your review once you receive the trigger unit for your gun to see how well that works for you. Perhaps give us some video coverage of both live cutting and welding with both units. I was hoping soon to see Part Two on that barn door build. I did get a good chuckle at the ice in your plasma table. Been there done that many years ago. Thanks again my friend - you're doing well for yourself and I look forward to your next video! Happy New Year!
Wow, thank you, I really appreciate that!! I will definitely do that! Part 2 of the barn door build will hopefully be next week… mainly just waiting on actually going and installing them to put that bit at the end of the video!
3 things that are important for cnc plasma cutting.1.Drive a ground rod as close to your setup as you can.Ground the table and plasma cutter to the earth ground.2.Clean and dry shop air is a must.Dam near paint quality air to plasma cutter.Any moisture will mess things up quick.3.A properly working torch height control is a must, especially for the larger pieces.Torch height is so important for a quality cut,along with good consumables.I was looking at the Pro Pulse,but decided to go with the Fronius Transteel 2200.Yeah it doesn't have pulse,but it can feed aluminum wire through a 15 foot mig gun.I am not an expert on cnc plasma cutting,but I have been cutting since 2006.If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
So you “T” the earth ground into the normal Plasma cutter ground or the earth ground replaces it?? I have heard of that on the big time tables but I cant quite wrap my head around it. I have the HTP Max Dry XXL dessicant air dryer setup so i think its about as dry as I am going to get it without a refrigerant cooler setup. My completely naive self did not fully understand how to set it up in the beginning….Then I thought I read that a THC doesnt work well with small parts and intricate stuff like words, which I do alot of, so I just havent pursued setting it up. If I am wrong, by all means, let me know! Lol Thank you, I appreciate that!
What plasma cutter are you running on the table ? What consumables are you running on the cutter? Air pressure? What air dryer System are you using? How high is your cut height. And what travel speed at what amperage are you running for what material thickness?
Hypertherm 45xp Standard 45A comsumables I am at about 100-110 at the regular, hoping for 90ish at the cutter. I running the huge HTP Max Dry XXL setup and I have a small, upright copper “cooler” between the compressor and the HTP setup. I was told to run the torch at .06 cut height so thats what its set at in Mach 3 I mainly do 16ga and 11ga and have tried about every speed and amperage combo under the sun but usually: 16ga i do 40A at 160IPM and 11ga I do 45A at 80 IPM
@@jbarstrailerfab standard 45xp consumables kind of suck for that material thickness …. 16 ga for sure even 11ga personally i would run fine cut consumables. The if i recall correctly air pressure on the cutter needs to be 70 psi + or - 1 maybe. Pressure too high messes up your cut. Sounds like you have dry air, that is good. Cut height of .060” is good too ( you night want to actually measure if that is really your cut height and not just a number in your software ) based on switch travel for homing the Z axis you can be off by as much as .030” or more from your target number in the software …. Just pointing out what i have seen in the past. Amperage and speed …. Personally 16ga and thicker i run max amps (45) And the travel speed with clean air and good consumables should be in the neighborhood of 300+ IPM ( at least on longer runs ) for small shapes and bolt holes 1/2” dia and less you might run 50% of that …. That being said - if you run “way too slow” which seems you might or your consumables are worn …. You will get this taper on the cut …. Slower does NOT equal better cut quality …. You need a certain “minimum speed” to get good cut results …. 11ga should be 140 ish ipm ….. The taper you show in the video is usually from 1 or more of these 3 things - moist air ( unlikely) - bad/worn consumables ( i hope not) - travel speed way out of parameter I hope that helps
Hey man, very informative videos, I just watched them both. Quick question. You've got both the machines I'm looking at. I'm a new welder, been using a cheap $100 Amazon stick welder to see if I like welding, and metal fab. Turns out I love it lol. So I want to get into it a little more. The 211 looks like it's a really solid welder for a beginner to learn the craft. But pulse looks like it might make learning curve between ugly mig welds, and good welds a bit shorter. Plus, it looks a little faster to use once you get used to it compared to short arc, ie less cleaning up spatter. I want to make industrial style furniture and try sell it on marketplace for sure, but also try some custom car parts (strut tower bars, exhaust etc) cuz I'm a car guy, and maybe even some bicycle frames. Who knows, it all looks so fun! Should I bite the bullet now and get the Pro Pulse for $2400, or get the 211 now for $1500, then maybe a dedicated Tig like the primeweld 225 for $900 later on down the road to do aluminum stuff? Sorry for the long question, but I don't have anyone else to ask. Thank you! Totally jealous of your shop btw! It's a metal fab wonderland lol! Oh ya, also is it possible to get so good at mig that you don't have to clean up spatter at all? Like the way it looks with pulse?
Hey man, thanks for watching!! And no worries, you can always ask me questions!! Assuming you are wanting to mostly do steel for now? Either way, no, in my opinion, its actually the opposite. Pulse CAN make a much nicer weld, but trying to learn HOW to weld AND trying to learn how to set and use pulse all at the same time, will most likely end in frustration…. I have been welding for quite awhile and still fall back on some people when trying to dial in settings on the HTP with or without Pulse (I use it strictly for Aluminum). Personally, I would recommend getting the HTP 220 MTS (unless you really want a miller or only have the budget for the 211) with a steel mig gun. You can run it standard for while, get comfortable running beads, practice, etc, then you can dive into some of the pulse programs if you want… AND then you can also buy the Aluminum gun and do the same, learn on “synergic” settings and then venture into pulse settings… all with one machine!! For what I do, i want to have 2 dedicated machines for ease, its not necessarily needed though, depending on your needs. I have not done alot of tig but I plan on buying a HTP Invertig at some point and diving into it more… Thanks! I built it myself and have been slowing building and acquiring a collection of tool, its alot of fun! Oh yeah, its mainly learning how to set your machine to keep spatter away. There are a few factors to be “spatter free” but for me, most of the time, spatter means I have my wire speed too low.
@@jbarstrailerfab Thanks for the info boss! I'll get the HTP then. That's the one I really wanted so I'm glad you said that. Just gotta make a few calls to make sure I can get 8% or 10% CO2 gas around here. I paused on your video, it looks like I can buy 8% CO2/92% argon gas and use it for both pulsed and non-pulsed mig, is that correct? Do you mind if I asked, were you able to buy all that cool stuff in your shop with welding/fab money?
@@smokesixkiller4292 I have not personally used 98/2, only 90/10 and it works good for alot of different things with steel. Right now the Miller is on regular ole 75/25 and of course the HTP is on straight Argon for Alum. Haha more or less, yes. The plasma table is the only major exception. The other business I am apart of regularly needs parts cut so we bought it through that and justified it that way.
Thank you for sharing this video. This was very interesting and your shop is awesome!
Thanks!
Great review, looking to get that’s same welder. This helped! Subbed
Nice, heartfelt and down to earth review of both units! It's good sometimes to hear a review from just a regular guy, not so much a full time, dyed in the wool well seasoned welder. You are honest, right to the punch and are humble enough to admit errors on your part sometimes rather than blaming it on a machine. I'll look forward to your review once you receive the trigger unit for your gun to see how well that works for you. Perhaps give us some video coverage of both live cutting and welding with both units. I was hoping soon to see Part Two on that barn door build. I did get a good chuckle at the ice in your plasma table. Been there done that many years ago. Thanks again my friend - you're doing well for yourself and I look forward to your next video! Happy New Year!
Wow, thank you, I really appreciate that!! I will definitely do that!
Part 2 of the barn door build will hopefully be next week… mainly just waiting on actually going and installing them to put that bit at the end of the video!
Good review man. That’s helps out other guys doing this kind of work a lot!
Thank you!
3 things that are important for cnc plasma cutting.1.Drive a ground rod as close to your setup as you can.Ground the table and plasma cutter to the earth ground.2.Clean and dry shop air is a must.Dam near paint quality air to plasma cutter.Any moisture will mess things up quick.3.A properly working torch height control is a must, especially for the larger pieces.Torch height is so important for a quality cut,along with good consumables.I was looking at the Pro Pulse,but decided to go with the Fronius Transteel 2200.Yeah it doesn't have pulse,but it can feed aluminum wire through a 15 foot mig gun.I am not an expert on cnc plasma cutting,but I have been cutting since 2006.If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
So you “T” the earth ground into the normal Plasma cutter ground or the earth ground replaces it?? I have heard of that on the big time tables but I cant quite wrap my head around it.
I have the HTP Max Dry XXL dessicant air dryer setup so i think its about as dry as I am going to get it without a refrigerant cooler setup.
My completely naive self did not fully understand how to set it up in the beginning….Then I thought I read that a THC doesnt work well with small parts and intricate stuff like words, which I do alot of, so I just havent pursued setting it up. If I am wrong, by all means, let me know! Lol
Thank you, I appreciate that!
@@jbarstrailerfab use the normal ground clamp for the metal you are cutting.Earth ground the table and case of your plasma cutter
What plasma cutter are you running on the table ? What consumables are you running on the cutter?
Air pressure?
What air dryer System are you using?
How high is your cut height.
And what travel speed at what amperage are you running for what material thickness?
Hypertherm 45xp
Standard 45A comsumables
I am at about 100-110 at the regular, hoping for 90ish at the cutter.
I running the huge HTP Max Dry XXL setup and I have a small, upright copper “cooler” between the compressor and the HTP setup.
I was told to run the torch at .06 cut height so thats what its set at in Mach 3
I mainly do 16ga and 11ga and have tried about every speed and amperage combo under the sun but usually: 16ga i do 40A at 160IPM and 11ga I do 45A at 80 IPM
@@jbarstrailerfab standard 45xp consumables kind of suck for that material thickness …. 16 ga for sure even 11ga personally i would run fine cut consumables. The if i recall correctly air pressure on the cutter needs to be 70 psi + or - 1 maybe. Pressure too high messes up your cut.
Sounds like you have dry air, that is good. Cut height of .060” is good too ( you night want to actually measure if that is really your cut height and not just a number in your software ) based on switch travel for homing the Z axis you can be off by as much as .030” or more from your target number in the software …. Just pointing out what i have seen in the past.
Amperage and speed …. Personally 16ga and thicker i run max amps (45)
And the travel speed with clean air and good consumables should be in the neighborhood of 300+ IPM ( at least on longer runs ) for small shapes and bolt holes 1/2” dia and less you might run 50% of that …. That being said - if you run “way too slow” which seems you might or your consumables are worn …. You will get this taper on the cut …. Slower does NOT equal better cut quality ….
You need a certain “minimum speed” to get good cut results ….
11ga should be 140 ish ipm …..
The taper you show in the video is usually from 1 or more of these 3 things
- moist air ( unlikely)
- bad/worn consumables ( i hope not)
- travel speed way out of parameter
I hope that helps
@@ZILAwelds thank you!! I will play around with some stuff! I have been wanting to try the fine cut consumables and I will turn down the air some.
Hey man, very informative videos, I just watched them both. Quick question. You've got both the machines I'm looking at. I'm a new welder, been using a cheap $100 Amazon stick welder to see if I like welding, and metal fab. Turns out I love it lol.
So I want to get into it a little more. The 211 looks like it's a really solid welder for a beginner to learn the craft. But pulse looks like it might make learning curve between ugly mig welds, and good welds a bit shorter. Plus, it looks a little faster to use once you get used to it compared to short arc, ie less cleaning up spatter.
I want to make industrial style furniture and try sell it on marketplace for sure, but also try some custom car parts (strut tower bars, exhaust etc) cuz I'm a car guy, and maybe even some bicycle frames. Who knows, it all looks so fun!
Should I bite the bullet now and get the Pro Pulse for $2400, or get the 211 now for $1500, then maybe a dedicated Tig like the primeweld 225 for $900 later on down the road to do aluminum stuff?
Sorry for the long question, but I don't have anyone else to ask. Thank you!
Totally jealous of your shop btw! It's a metal fab wonderland lol!
Oh ya, also is it possible to get so good at mig that you don't have to clean up spatter at all? Like the way it looks with pulse?
Hey man, thanks for watching!! And no worries, you can always ask me questions!!
Assuming you are wanting to mostly do steel for now? Either way, no, in my opinion, its actually the opposite. Pulse CAN make a much nicer weld, but trying to learn HOW to weld AND trying to learn how to set and use pulse all at the same time, will most likely end in frustration…. I have been welding for quite awhile and still fall back on some people when trying to dial in settings on the HTP with or without Pulse (I use it strictly for Aluminum).
Personally, I would recommend getting the HTP 220 MTS (unless you really want a miller or only have the budget for the 211) with a steel mig gun. You can run it standard for while, get comfortable running beads, practice, etc, then you can dive into some of the pulse programs if you want… AND then you can also buy the Aluminum gun and do the same, learn on “synergic” settings and then venture into pulse settings… all with one machine!! For what I do, i want to have 2 dedicated machines for ease, its not necessarily needed though, depending on your needs.
I have not done alot of tig but I plan on buying a HTP Invertig at some point and diving into it more…
Thanks! I built it myself and have been slowing building and acquiring a collection of tool, its alot of fun!
Oh yeah, its mainly learning how to set your machine to keep spatter away. There are a few factors to be “spatter free” but for me, most of the time, spatter means I have my wire speed too low.
@@jbarstrailerfab Thanks for the info boss! I'll get the HTP then. That's the one I really wanted so I'm glad you said that. Just gotta make a few calls to make sure I can get 8% or 10% CO2 gas around here.
I paused on your video, it looks like I can buy 8% CO2/92% argon gas and use it for both pulsed and non-pulsed mig, is that correct?
Do you mind if I asked, were you able to buy all that cool stuff in your shop with welding/fab money?
@@smokesixkiller4292 I have not personally used 98/2, only 90/10 and it works good for alot of different things with steel. Right now the Miller is on regular ole 75/25 and of course the HTP is on straight Argon for Alum.
Haha more or less, yes. The plasma table is the only major exception. The other business I am apart of regularly needs parts cut so we bought it through that and justified it that way.
@@jbarstrailerfab damn dude, that's awesome. The house that welding built. You're living the dream. Subbed. Looking forward to your next video! 🤙🤙🤙