I attempted flyback surgery on Apple's worst monitor - Apple Studio Display 17"
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2023
- Content Warning: usage of Dremel, bad soldering, bad desoldering, underestimating high voltage, Steve Jobs Reality Distortion Field
For more details, including links to resellers and various resources, check out my webpage about this project: www.riveducha.com/fix-apple-s...
Tools used:
Hakko desoldering gun: amzn.to/3OJTb5j
Weller soldering station: amzn.to/47yqiAD
Kotto fume extractor: amzn.to/3KvTXjY 
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Hey there! Using your video, I managed to replace the flyback in my own beloved Apple Studio Display! I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video. Without your advice and tips, I don’t think I could’ve done it.
That being said, I have a couple things to add onto the information in the video, in case someone else wants to do this repair:
The plastic piece on the back of the PCB, since you said you couldn’t figure out how to remove it without breaking it, I just decided to leave that piece assembled and desolder around it. I managed to get all the pins (including the capacitor you have to remove) without melting the plastic… too much. Lol.
When desoldering the flyback, even when you get all the pins it’s in there pretty tight and won’t budge at first. After I was sure all of the solder was out of the holes, I used a flathead screwdriver and a little bit of brute force to pry it up.
The capacitor you have to remove is C537, I don’t think that was mentioned in the video. I also had a hard time clipping it because it’s between 2 other capacitors of the same size. I just desoldered it, fortunately it was MUCH easier than desoldering the flyback. I used desoldering wick for all of it btw.
For the wires that come out of the new flyback and go into the neck board, the two thicker wires detach from the board using a button mechanism. You push the little tab on the side of the hole and it unclamps the wire, and you can pull it right out. And, as long as you strip the wire on the new flyback to the same length, you can do the same thing going in, no splicing or desoldering required. For the focus wire I did have to splice that because it uses some kind of connector that I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble, but since that wire sends fewer than 1000V I just wrapped it in like 20 layers of electrical tape to be safe.
When you’re adjusting the focus, I think one knob controls the overall focus and the other controls the difference between the horizontal and vertical focus. So I found that when displaying a test pattern and trying to adjust it, it’s easiest to adjust the difference to get the vertical and horizontal lines to even amounts of blurriness, then adjust the focus to bring both of them to where you want.
For anyone else who wants to attempt this repair, good luck! It’s very time consuming and definitely helps to have someone there to help you, but it’s possible! I’ve got it up and running and it looks great. I’ve got pictures and more details here: www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/s/LN4kvROdbj
I’m so happy this video helped you! Your setup looks amazing and I appreciate the extra info you shared!
@@riveduchamax resolution hertz ?
Im amazed by visiting your channel, you are very genius in ai making and knowledge about ai, I have a huge request for you , please share your knowledge by making videos on how you do this and teaching others on RUclips!
I think it would be cool if you revisited the Valorant bot and upgraded it!
Please do this
I got one of these CRTs like a year ago with flyback issues, and picked up a replacement flyback around then as well. Never got around to installing it, but this video came up on my feed recently so once I figure out where I put the flyback I think I have a new project.
I also saw someone on the 68kmla found a 5v power source on one of the boards used that to power a fan which they attached to the RF shield, so that might not be a bad idea to do to help keep the monitor cooler and make it last longer with the new flyback(assuming the original failure of the flyback is heat related)
Desoldering is easier if you first use a bit of flux, and leaded solder to “wet” the joints with a soldering iron before attacking it with your hakko desoldering gun
Thanks!
Hey! Hope it helped you out! Would love to hear about how it went for you if you tried it!
Perhapse as an aside, there exists self fusing tape that is used as an overlap for high voltage wires. It doesnt really seem to have an adhesive, but when wrapped over itself it becomes a single piece over the course of a few hours. It can be expensive, but I buy it because I use so little of it. One example is Scotch 70 which has 34kV/mm dielectric strength. Note that you strech it as you wrap, so each layer is thinner but there will be more wraps for a given length of tape. It can get you out of a bind.
I did not know there was such a thing as self-fusing tape! TIL! If the Scotch 70 is 0.3mm thick, then I calculate you'd want to wrap it at least 3 layers thick, probably more to factor in stretching. Or maybe use it on top of heat-shrink tubing.
where is the valorant ai series bro that shit was good to watch
had two graphite 17” ones back in the day one developed the problem and was then later stolen. i replaced it with Sony Vaio trinitron crt. the other developed the issue too and i sold it as is with the G4 to a friends girlfriend when i got an iMac G4. later heard that a few months later it died in spectacular fashion.
you know 2 years ago when you made a valorant how long do you think it would take me to make one if i have no experience making bots I really want to make one i realy need to know
Can you please continue your teaching ai to play valorant series?
Hello! I just acquired a 21 inch version of this CRT and been wondering if there's a way to adjust its geometry without Mac?
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Can you share a link where you purchased the flyback? Thanks in advance
Should be in the description’s link. But last time I checked the US reseller was sold out :(
Will there ever be another part of the Valoorant ai bot?
Hi River, my girlfriend got me the 21" version of this monitor with the G3 PC, keyboard and mouse and its amazing the good state its still today. The problem I'm having is that the screen makes like a strange flickering brightnes up and down for some minutes and stops some seconds and does it again. Its strange and I'm not sure what can be. I played with it a lot but its horrible seeing this strange behaviour with the brithgnes moving up and down so fast constantly.
Do you have any idea? Thanks and great video mate :)
Personally I've been looking for someone to repair mine for about half a year now, CRT repair in Norway seems to just be completely dead, and while my monitor has been turned off and unplugged since May, I'm still iffy on doing the repair myself
Where did you buy your flyback transformer?
Where can I buy a brand new flyback transformer for an iMac g3 ?
what is that you using editing program?
Hello, i would like to reproduce a part of your pragramm about valorant tracking. Where would it be possible to message you to talk about it ?
Using carpet as a work mat for any electronic repair is an odd choice…..
worst monitor? 17 inch trinitron seems pretty good to me
I’d argue it’s the second worst monitor.. the AppleVision 1710 was so horribly unreliable.