Very cool. I didn’t want to mess with a battery keep it alive etc. So I just did a basic tail light without the brake light that runs like the headlight IE only when the motor runs. It still allows me to be seen & has no maintenance.
That's what I'd do too. I don't want a battery unless it's there to run a starter. Of course, for mini bikes that don't come with a headlight they might not have an engine that includes a stator/rotor for 12v+ supply.
But if you add upgrades to the bike and end up replacing the stock flywheel with a billet flywheel then you have no choice but to cut off the charging coil and then if you want lights a battery is the only other option. I cut my charging coil off and just got a small battery that i gotta find a place to rig it on to and hook up a toggle on/off switch and run to headlight. I'm just debating if i should keep the stock headlight or replace the stock light with an LED light. I like the way the stock headlight looks on it but the LED lights are much brighter. 🤔💡
This is another way to do it, and perhaps less expensive, but I think it's more complicated. A 12 volt battery should last quite a while, even without being regularly charged, since you only really need it for a few seconds at a time or when riding at night. Also, it's super fast to charge or keep on a trickle if you plan to use the bike more frequently.
That's a great idea. I didn't want to bother with swapping them out and recharging, but that would work. The little battery I used was pretty cheap and for as little as you use the brake light, it should last a long time.
Sweet video dude thx so much cause I got pulled over by the police and everything was good but they said I needed a tail light so I just went the easy way and bought a tail like for a bicycle which works well other than its always on but I guess it's better than nothing for now until I just seen your video thx again Mike.
Could you of kept everything on the brake handle and just switch it for the other break handle or that wouldn't of worked? Also this method work for just about any mini bike setup? Thanks for doing a in depth on a lighting system, you definitely were the first one I seen on RUclips, I was excited bc I didn't no how to do anything like that,was driving me crazy lol
The brake lever that I had to buy to get the push-switch was too long for a mini-bike. It technically would work if you want to use it. I couldn't find just the switch, unfortunately, which is why I had to dismantle and then discard the longer lever.
There are extra wires if you wish to have signals, but this also requires a hand switch on the handlebars. It is likely easier to buy a full kit with all the parts rather than piecing it together from different sources. Good luck!
Instead of adding a battery, can the brake light/running light be added to the headlight light? So that it runs off the engine? If so, what color on the headlight wires is positive and which is negative?
That might work, but LED lights are not compatible with the power source used for the headlight and it could cause failure. This is why the separate battery is an option. You can add a rectifier / converter to run everything from the engine, but that's a different modification.
You can wire it this way, but (a) the headlight should ALWAYS be on when you're riding and (b) most folks probably don't ride with their tail lights on during the day, so a separate switch saves battery life.
Not sure what you mean - the switch is just that. It may be located away from the battery, but it serves the same purpose. Battery connects to switch connects to light connects to battery. There's the circuit that the switch interrupts.
The headlamp comes installed and connected from the factory. If you're asking how it might be connected to a switch, that's not super complicated, but I don't know that the halogen bulb would last. To mount an LED headlamp and run it off the battery, it is a more involved process and requires a few other parts. In my opinion, there's no need to do that.
I would recommend a separate LED if you need something to supplement the regular headlight. For that, I would also suggest that you link the LED to the same switch that operates the (running) tail light. Just take the two wires from the LED and one goes to the switch and the other goes to the battery to join the existing circuit.
It shouldn't really matter as long as you're consistent. Also, there's a 50/50 shot. You aren't going to kill yourself by doing it wrong, it just won't work. :^)
There is no easy way to get the power converted from the motor, unfortunately. It's either battery powered or you have to buy an AC/DC module or replace the stator.
@@sammyrothrock6981 Or a $12 battery and no need to mess with the engine, voltage regulators, capacitors, etc. Your choice. For the mini bikes that already have the empty replica gas can, there's no challenge mounting a battery and virtually no experience necessary with wiring and electronics. For the CT100 or others without a box, then your suggestion might be better.
Very cool. I didn’t want to mess with a battery keep it alive etc. So I just did a basic tail light without the brake light that runs like the headlight IE only when the motor runs. It still allows me to be seen & has no maintenance.
Hi How did you connect it?
What light did you use?
That's what I'd do too. I don't want a battery unless it's there to run a starter.
Of course, for mini bikes that don't come with a headlight they might not have an engine that includes a stator/rotor for 12v+ supply.
But if you add upgrades to the bike and end up replacing the stock flywheel with a billet flywheel then you have no choice but to cut off the charging coil and then if you want lights a battery is the only other option. I cut my charging coil off and just got a small battery that i gotta find a place to rig it on to and hook up a toggle on/off switch and run to headlight. I'm just debating if i should keep the stock headlight or replace the stock light with an LED light. I like the way the stock headlight looks on it but the LED lights are much brighter. 🤔💡
This is another way to do it, and perhaps less expensive, but I think it's more complicated.
A 12 volt battery should last quite a while, even without being regularly charged, since you only really need it for a few seconds at a time or when riding at night.
Also, it's super fast to charge or keep on a trickle if you plan to use the bike more frequently.
How tho
Wish I’d seen this before I completed mine. I used the tension switch for my LED brake lights.
I sure wish you could do a video hooking up the turn signal wires I followed every thing you did now I want turn signals and a horn great video …
This is a great step by step video!
Thank you for the kind words!
Fun fact. RC LiPo batteries are the best batteries for these projects. Get some XT60 connectors and you're golden.
That's a great idea. I didn't want to bother with swapping them out and recharging, but that would work. The little battery I used was pretty cheap and for as little as you use the brake light, it should last a long time.
Dude ur the best!!! Thank You
Happy to help
I didnt drill my hole straight on the brake lever for the light and it fit perfectly so i didnt even have to adjust anything lol 🙂
Thanks Mike.
Sweet video dude thx so much cause I got pulled over by the police and everything was good but they said I needed a tail light so I just went the easy way and bought a tail like for a bicycle which works well other than its always on but I guess it's better than nothing for now until I just seen your video thx again Mike.
Can you put the links for the items that you got to use.
Can you put links to the switch n stuff
At least you can wire up things this can be used for any bike. I have one thinking also I have a MTD mini bike and a couple trikes
Could you of kept everything on the brake handle and just switch it for the other break handle or that wouldn't of worked?
Also this method work for just about any mini bike setup?
Thanks for doing a in depth on a lighting system, you definitely were the first one I seen on RUclips, I was excited bc I didn't no how to do anything like that,was driving me crazy lol
The brake lever that I had to buy to get the push-switch was too long for a mini-bike. It technically would work if you want to use it.
I couldn't find just the switch, unfortunately, which is why I had to dismantle and then discard the longer lever.
Do you have the link for this kit on Amazon?
Honest question: doesn’t making a hole in the handle make it weaker & prone to breaking?
I had no issues. These are all cheap pot metal, so your question isn't out of line, but it's really not a stress point where you run the wire through.
Can you put the links for the items that you used?
I've seen some other people asking this as well.
Great detailed tutorial can you show us how to wire the blinkers?
There are extra wires if you wish to have signals, but this also requires a hand switch on the handlebars. It is likely easier to buy a full kit with all the parts rather than piecing it together from different sources. Good luck!
Instead of adding a battery, can the brake light/running light be added to the headlight light? So that it runs off the engine? If so, what color on the headlight wires is positive and which is negative?
That might work, but LED lights are not compatible with the power source used for the headlight and it could cause failure. This is why the separate battery is an option. You can add a rectifier / converter to run everything from the engine, but that's a different modification.
Great video
Isn’t there a way to combine the headlight and back light to turn on instead of having them separate. That way both lights are off and on when needed.
You can wire it this way, but (a) the headlight should ALWAYS be on when you're riding and (b) most folks probably don't ride with their tail lights on during the day, so a separate switch saves battery life.
@@channelyourinnermike link the parts because I cant find the parts
Nice how to do you have a link to the brake light thank you
The new hand bracket wouldn't fit with the old hand lever?
What Battery did you use❓❓❓❓❓❓‼️
I used a stripper as recommended but she ended up stealing my bike at the end :(
"Never let someone ride a mini bike in stiletto heels," that's my motto.
@@channelyourinnermike used to have a moto also but again she stole it lol
would you provide the link for the "switch" on the lever assembly? thank you
Please give more info on battery size and #
Cant the brake light be hooked to the front light wire?
Can u link all the parts you got to do this
I need to know what parts to get
What the brake lever part name cuz I can’t find it with the wire
So black from the brake lever switch goes to positive on battery and green goes red on brake light?
It really doesn't matter as long as you're consistent with the wire colors (to create a proper circuit).
What's volts on the battery your using and if you wanted to add
blinkers is it enough power for both brake lights and blinkers?
12 volt battery should be plenty for signals
Do you have a video on how to set up a on and off switch for your battery?
Not sure what you mean - the switch is just that. It may be located away from the battery, but it serves the same purpose. Battery connects to switch connects to light connects to battery. There's the circuit that the switch interrupts.
I think it was a pain to take out the brake line so when your riding the line will most likely 🤔 not come. Nice videos Keep it up.
Can you please show me how to hook up the headlamp? Thanks.
The headlamp comes installed and connected from the factory. If you're asking how it might be connected to a switch, that's not super complicated, but I don't know that the halogen bulb would last.
To mount an LED headlamp and run it off the battery, it is a more involved process and requires a few other parts. In my opinion, there's no need to do that.
Maybe wire up a led bar on the light
I do not believe the LEDs will work in the front because the headlight doesn't run off the battery.
Hey can you show me how to put a led into the front
I would recommend a separate LED if you need something to supplement the regular headlight. For that, I would also suggest that you link the LED to the same switch that operates the (running) tail light. Just take the two wires from the LED and one goes to the switch and the other goes to the battery to join the existing circuit.
Just what I was looking for thx 👍
Cam you tell me is it the positive or negative you connect the switch to???
It shouldn't really matter as long as you're consistent. Also, there's a 50/50 shot. You aren't going to kill yourself by doing it wrong, it just won't work. :^)
Where is this kit? Can you put a link in the comments?
No kit, just Google and Amazon search.
Do you have part number
Very helpful 👍🏻
A much simpler way would be to use light coil circuit.. Test output voltage and get a simple voltage regulation ic chip! No battery at all necessary
There is no easy way to get the power converted from the motor, unfortunately. It's either battery powered or you have to buy an AC/DC module or replace the stator.
@@channelyourinnermike www.amazon.com/uxcell-Waterproof-Converter-Electronic-Transformer/dp/B01ARRA56Y/ref=asc_df_B01ARRA56Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193992629021&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4310578581947832603&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006629&hvtargid=pla-312676089275&psc=1
18 dollar solution and a big capacitor would fill out the half wave pulse of the light coil
@@sammyrothrock6981
Or a $12 battery and no need to mess with the engine, voltage regulators, capacitors, etc. Your choice.
For the mini bikes that already have the empty replica gas can, there's no challenge mounting a battery and virtually no experience necessary with wiring and electronics. For the CT100 or others without a box, then your suggestion might be better.
@@channelyourinnermike yes but, you wont have the pulse from the coil... It will be steady
Do you have links for the break light and the battery?
Do you have links for the everything?
Sorry, no links. Just use search on Google or Amazon (that's what I did) as the parts and suppliers tend to change.