You're right that the 30A fuse doesnt cover the rated output of the 50A Anderson - I'd largely say its because these Anderson plugs are universally known as 50A, and a 30A fuse would generally move than cover any output people would be expecting in a 12v system. I cant think of a scenario where you'd be exceeding that in a standard 12v camping set up. If you are wanting more than 30 amps, you can upgrade the fuse, but you'd also need to make sure all your wiring is up to the task as well. Hope that helps. ~ Lauren
@@SnowysOutdoors I would expect anything plugged into an anderson plug to have its own fuse, unless it can consume the 50A from the Anderson connector. The idea, I think, of an Anderson connector to be switched between loads or sources. A 30A fuse in that position should not be protecting the fridge circuit plugged into it, it should be protecting its cable and Anderson connector.
@@oneeyedphotographer You are correct that a fuse on a Wiring Circuit is or Should be designed/rated to protect the Wire, not the appliance plugged into it, which may or may not exceed that total load on wiring hence the Fuse.
@@SnowysOutdoors Correct! At both ends on a longer run more than 1 m - 2 m for sure, better still a big chunky fuse at battery end, and a quality circuit breaker at the other end before the control box to both protect cable/box And able to Isolate power/Turn Power off to control box in case you need to work on it etc.
Basically, Powertech are assuming this will be installed in a 4WD where the battery is earthed to the metal of your vehicle. The negative from your fridge or whatever load you have, etc goes to the common ground. If you're not installing in a vehicle then go to the negative bus bar. Essentially, to make it simple, go to the common negative of your battery. ~ Lauren
Yep you can, but they are fused at 30A so thats your input limit. If you want more than that you'll need to wire your battery to the bus bars - you can check out the PDF wiring diagram on our website. ~ Lauren
That's it, Angus. You can customise it, but the idea is that the busbars are the point at which you pickup power from inside the box for power to other connections. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors awesome i appreciate the response, can I also plug my 20a pwm solar charge controller directly into one of the Anderson's to charge the battery? Or will this affect the power supply of the rest of the control box or fry it? Thankyou for taking the time to respond
@@petergriffin955 essentially yes, provided it is all appropriately fused. If you are unsure it could be worth checking with an auto elec or 12V store. ~ Ben
You could always add inline fuses to the setup if this is what you'd prefer, A B, but if you are aware of the total loads being used then the fuses still make it safe. The only downside is that if one appliance causes a fuse to blow, it will cut power to a second too. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors it could be modified but shouldn't have to if designed correctly in the first place. Its a shame cause i like the size compared to a large control box. Guess ill have to make one up myself Cheers
@@vaughanjackson2262 I agree with this statement, but can also imagine they are being competitive and like most brands keeping their Costs Down, saving on expensive thicker wiring, fuses and time. I buy these control boxes or gang switches and Re-wire them adding individual fuses and then also protecting the switches and Everything else.
So with this setup you can plug you solar panel into 1 anderson plug and a battery into the other ?? Does this have an internal MPPT or do we need to add that
This is just a set of switches, sockets and fuses, Mick, there are no built in solar controllers, inverters or anything of this sort. You'd most likely use this on the output side of your battery rather than between your solar panel and battery. ~ Ben
Although Ben is for the most part right, as long as you use a Solar Charge Controller, and keep both inputs and outputs via Anderson below the fused/wired 30 A limit, then technically Yes, you can do it. As long as you realise by connecting your battery to this control box via the Anderson Plugs, you will be limiting the Entire output current draw of the control box to around 30 A, and usually the recommended Total current draw/advised fuse/circuit breaker rating for these types of control boxes is around + - 40 A.
Hi, Can the indicator lights on the switches be disabled. Vehicle is left unused for long periods & may flatten the battery a bit. Maybe wiring can be disconnected?
I don't think that's possible, Shane, the backlight is powered by the same wire that provides power to the switch. You could always change the switches out for versions that are not back lit. ~ Ben
As you are Wise to fuse this at both ends of the positive input power cable, you can put a circuit breaker in at the control box end which doubles up as a switch. Just get a 40 A version, and make sure the wire is capable of at least that or more depending on your length of wire run/distance.
This box is designed to power 12v appliances only - you wouldn't run an inverter off it really. If you decide to give it a go, you'd probably only be able to run something like a 300W inverter from the anderson output. ~ Lauren
@@SnowysOutdoors Correct! The Anderson plugs circuit is fused to 30 Amps, so that would Max out at around 300W-360W and best to keep it below a constant 250W-300W draw for long periods if you can. A spike of a few seconds up to 350W should be fine for a few seconds though.
I don't think it's far off the mark in terms of price, DOCWHOK9. 6 x switches and 4 x cig sockets at say $12 each comes to $120. Chuck in the wires, fuse box, housing and account for the time it would take for someone to set this up themselves, and I'd call it pretty good value. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors check ebay, you can buy a 6gang for as low as $20, Fuse Panel $20, a sheet of ABS $20. Theres a huge saving for the DIYer Ben. Jaycar prices make me cry, its the same items with huge markups.
I wouldn't be able to fault find via the comments here sorry, I'd recommend taking it back to where you purchased the product or somewhere that someone in the know can look over it for you. ~ Ben
I'm not quite sure what you mean by 'dual illuminated' sorry, but I imagine that once there is power going through the switch it will ight up. You can always change the switches out for other Narva switches if you prefer. ~ Ben
@@stevecrowe176 Oh, I see, I guess anything is possible if you have the knowledge. It's a bit of a blank canvas to work with and you can swap out or add elements wherever you want. ~ Ben
why do you think that putting any sort of backgriund music on top of the voice adds any value to the production? - such things detract badly from the presentation reminds me of a programmer who put programmed a glint on a computer screen - did a really good job ( had me chasing the phantom light behind be for a bit, it was so realistic) - unfortunatly you could not read the screen behinf hte glint, makeing the page unusable. - when challenged over the glint, the young eflla was really excited that a user har taken the time to contact him - he explained how proud he was of the glint and how much effort he had put into getting it realistic - I told him he did a really really good job of the glint, so good in fact that it made the page unusable - the programmer was a bit let down in this. Perhaps you could have a converstion with the vedio production team about the lack lf user friendly aspect of sticking crap noise over the top of a voice that one is trying to listen to
Hi John, thanks for your feedback. We have discussed whether or not to include music, and we decided to do so at a lower background volume. This video has been really popular though, but we'll revisit the volume of the music in case it's crept up a little high. ~ Ben
2:40 I'd NOT be happy with a fuse blowing so far short of the 50A the Anderson plugs support.
You're right that the 30A fuse doesnt cover the rated output of the 50A Anderson - I'd largely say its because these Anderson plugs are universally known as 50A, and a 30A fuse would generally move than cover any output people would be expecting in a 12v system.
I cant think of a scenario where you'd be exceeding that in a standard 12v camping set up.
If you are wanting more than 30 amps, you can upgrade the fuse, but you'd also need to make sure all your wiring is up to the task as well.
Hope that helps.
~ Lauren
@@SnowysOutdoors I would expect anything plugged into an anderson plug to have its own fuse, unless it can consume the 50A from the Anderson connector. The idea, I think, of an Anderson connector to be switched between loads or sources.
A 30A fuse in that position should not be protecting the fridge circuit plugged into it, it should be protecting its cable and Anderson connector.
@@oneeyedphotographer
You are correct that a fuse on a Wiring Circuit is or Should be designed/rated to protect the Wire, not the appliance plugged into it, which may or may not exceed that total load on wiring hence the Fuse.
Do you need to fuse the wiring going to your secondary battery?
It sort of depends on your setup, but it's good practice to make sure you have a fuse in any positive wire as close to the battery as possible. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors
Correct! At both ends on a longer run more than 1 m - 2 m for sure, better still a big chunky fuse at battery end, and a quality circuit breaker at the other end before the control box to both protect cable/box And able to Isolate power/Turn Power off to control box in case you need to work on it etc.
For the switches you connect the positive wire of your accssory to the unused connect , where would you put the negative? To the negative busbar?
Basically, Powertech are assuming this will be installed in a 4WD where the battery is earthed to the metal of your vehicle.
The negative from your fridge or whatever load you have, etc goes to the common ground.
If you're not installing in a vehicle then go to the negative bus bar.
Essentially, to make it simple, go to the common negative of your battery.
~ Lauren
So i can use one of the anderson plugs to get power into the panel from a battery box?
Yep you can, but they are fused at 30A so thats your input limit.
If you want more than that you'll need to wire your battery to the bus bars - you can check out the PDF wiring diagram on our website.
~ Lauren
Hey. So if I connect my battery to the positive and negative bus bars, it will power the whole control box correct?
That's it, Angus. You can customise it, but the idea is that the busbars are the point at which you pickup power from inside the box for power to other connections. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors awesome i appreciate the response, can I also plug my 20a pwm solar charge controller directly into one of the Anderson's to charge the battery? Or will this affect the power supply of the rest of the control box or fry it? Thankyou for taking the time to respond
@@petergriffin955 essentially yes, provided it is all appropriately fused. If you are unsure it could be worth checking with an auto elec or 12V store. ~ Ben
Twice as many circuits as you do fuses.. id prefer to have individual fuses for every switch and cig socket.
You could always add inline fuses to the setup if this is what you'd prefer, A B, but if you are aware of the total loads being used then the fuses still make it safe. The only downside is that if one appliance causes a fuse to blow, it will cut power to a second too. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors it could be modified but shouldn't have to if designed correctly in the first place. Its a shame cause i like the size compared to a large control box. Guess ill have to make one up myself
Cheers
@@vaughanjackson2262
I agree with this statement, but can also imagine they are being competitive and like most brands keeping their Costs Down, saving on expensive thicker wiring, fuses and time. I buy these control boxes or gang switches and Re-wire them adding individual fuses and then also protecting the switches and Everything else.
So with this setup you can plug you solar panel into 1 anderson plug and a battery into the other ?? Does this have an internal MPPT or do we need to add that
This is just a set of switches, sockets and fuses, Mick, there are no built in solar controllers, inverters or anything of this sort. You'd most likely use this on the output side of your battery rather than between your solar panel and battery. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors thanks Ben Great work
Although Ben is for the most part right, as long as you use a Solar Charge Controller, and keep both inputs and outputs via Anderson below the fused/wired 30 A limit, then technically Yes, you can do it. As long as you realise by connecting your battery to this control box via the Anderson Plugs, you will be limiting the Entire output current draw of the control box to around 30 A, and usually the recommended Total current draw/advised fuse/circuit breaker rating for these types of control boxes is around + - 40 A.
Hi, Can the indicator lights on the switches be disabled. Vehicle is left unused for long periods & may flatten the battery a bit. Maybe wiring can be disconnected?
I don't think that's possible, Shane, the backlight is powered by the same wire that provides power to the switch. You could always change the switches out for versions that are not back lit. ~ Ben
Yes you can
@@chrisnixon2179
That does not help much hey?
Not so hard to type a little more to elaborate,......here,....
I'll do it for you........
As you are Wise to fuse this at both ends of the positive input power cable, you can put a circuit breaker in at the control box end which doubles up as a switch. Just get a 40 A version, and make sure the wire is capable of at least that or more depending on your length of wire run/distance.
Why is my voltage metre flashin on mine
Not sure sorry, Todd, if you purchased from us you can get in touch via out online form and we can investigate for you - www.snowys.com.au/warranty.
can you ship it to California,USA?
We only ship with Australia sorry, Danny. ~ Ben
where do run the inverter from please?
This box is designed to power 12v appliances only - you wouldn't run an inverter off it really.
If you decide to give it a go, you'd probably only be able to run something like a 300W inverter from the anderson output.
~ Lauren
@@SnowysOutdoors
Correct! The Anderson plugs circuit is fused to 30 Amps, so that would Max out at around 300W-360W and best to keep it below a constant 250W-300W draw for long periods if you can. A spike of a few seconds up to 350W should be fine for a few seconds though.
No need for this to be priced so high at $199, but its a nice place to start, it needs some upgrades like already said.
I don't think it's far off the mark in terms of price, DOCWHOK9.
6 x switches and 4 x cig sockets at say $12 each comes to $120. Chuck in the wires, fuse box, housing and account for the time it would take for someone to set this up themselves, and I'd call it pretty good value.
~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors check ebay, you can buy a 6gang for as low as $20, Fuse Panel $20, a sheet of ABS $20. Theres a huge saving for the DIYer Ben. Jaycar prices make me cry, its the same items with huge markups.
My voltage meter is not working, all rest is. Any indication why?
I wouldn't be able to fault find via the comments here sorry, I'd recommend taking it back to where you purchased the product or somewhere that someone in the know can look over it for you. ~ Ben
First thing to always do is check fuse (pull out, check, re-install correctly) and connections.
Can you get the rocker switches to be dual illuminated as well?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by 'dual illuminated' sorry, but I imagine that once there is power going through the switch it will ight up. You can always change the switches out for other Narva switches if you prefer. ~ Ben
@@SnowysOutdoors l think he means when the switch is in the ON position a small LED is illuminated
@@stevecrowe176 Oh, I see, I guess anything is possible if you have the knowledge. It's a bit of a blank canvas to work with and you can swap out or add elements wherever you want. ~ Ben
why do you think that putting any sort of backgriund music on top of the voice adds any value to the production?
- such things detract badly from the presentation
reminds me of a programmer who put programmed a glint on a computer screen
- did a really good job ( had me chasing the phantom light behind be for a bit, it was so realistic)
- unfortunatly you could not read the screen behinf hte glint, makeing the page unusable.
- when challenged over the glint, the young eflla was really excited that a user har taken the time to contact him
- he explained how proud he was of the glint and how much effort he had put into getting it realistic
- I told him he did a really really good job of the glint, so good in fact that it made the page unusable
- the programmer was a bit let down in this.
Perhaps you could have a converstion with the vedio production team about the lack lf user friendly aspect of sticking crap noise over the top of a voice that one is trying to listen to
Hi John, thanks for your feedback. We have discussed whether or not to include music, and we decided to do so at a lower background volume. This video has been really popular though, but we'll revisit the volume of the music in case it's crept up a little high. ~ Ben