I also live on the west coast of BC, and the same problem comes with huge condensation . I have 53' High Cube . I installed a fan on the roof that is powered by the sun during the day and electricity at night . Vevor solar attics fan. For now, it works and it helps a lot, except that it has to be turned on almost all the time, especially at night.I fixed the problem with the roof seal with a huge amount of silicone and it works fine, no leaks whatsoever.
Thanks for posting this, I had ordered a solar fan I was going to install into the door to pull air in. After watching this video I cancelled the fan and ordered the whirlybird. I had thought of doing this but didn't know how I'd install on a non-flat roof. I installed exactly as you show in this video. I'm just waiting on some side vents to finish everything. Have the same exact moisture problem in mine with a moldy ceiling. I appriciate you posting this video!
Watching this video made me think about how much time you put into each one. Thinking about how you will explain what you will be doing and why. Putting up pictures to help explain it. Thank you for what you do, not only for the RUclipsrs but for the school. Good job ! Have a blessed day !
We put two 300mm x 300mm vents into one side of our 20 foot containers and also a solar powered whirlybird on the roof thats hard wired into the mains to continue to run during the nights. Anyone wanting to mount a whirlybird I bought 2 adaptors from Container Creations in America and they posted them to Australia.
While it's true that mold can only grow on organic surfaces, there is undoubtedly dirt on the surface of the top of the container. And mold CAN grow on the dirt - and it doesn't take much to provide a perfect "petri dish."
I am wondering how the ventilation problem turned out with the increased vents and spiral vent on the roof. Did you achieve your results of no water and mold on the interior walls
Much improved. Part of the problem is that we store ice-melter in this container, which is a desiccant and attracts water. If we didn't do this the issue would be completely eliminated.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne they actually use desiccants to absorb water and keep humidity down. They sell hanging bags of calcium chloride to absorb water and reduce humidity in shipping containers.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne right. So if that de-icer is a desiccant, it should be helping to reduce moisture in the air, not make matters worse. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I know… weird, right? Anyways, not a scientific controlled comparison as we’ve never NOT stored the ice melter in the container so I can’t say for certain whether removing it would change anything.
Much improved. Part of the problem is that we store ice-melter in this container, which is a desiccant and attracts water. If we didn't do this the issue would be completely eliminated.
In a perfect world, yes, I agree. However, you and I both know that in a storage things will be stored against the walls. Now that the general humidity issues within the container have been corrected, stuff that was stored against the walls will (hopefully) no longer have issues. The walls are built with natural grooves, which help facilitate circulation behind things, so it’s not like the back of a closet with zero air circulation. I also have another theory. We have been storing ice-melt inside the container, and ice-melt is a desiccant so it has been drawing moisture into the container. I have a feeling that if this ice-melt were not in the container in the first place, the issue would not have been as severe.
… and yet it doesn’t leak when it rains and the condensation problem has been resolved as surface area of the hole is greater than the combined surface area of the intake vents, allowing for efficient ventilation. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! Spray foam, all the way. Any other will not have intimate contact and an imperfect seal between the insulation and the shell and allow for air movement... which leads to trapped condensation.
why would you only cut a small rectangle? just cut the entire dam hole out, air is liquid like water, only so much will go through that hole at once, bigger opening means more air flow.
Two reasons: "Small" is relative. The limiting factor in a convection system will be the smallest opening(s). The hole in the roof is 4" x 13", which is 52 square inches... which is greater than the combined area of the intake vents. In other words, the hole only needs to be as big as the combined area of your intake, since the INTAKES are the limiting factor. The second reason is that we get a lot of rainfall and I still needed to maintain the integrity of the roof. I wanted the lip on the roof surface so that even if a little water were to sneak past the seal, there would be less chance of it running into the opening and damage that which is stored inside. Had I cut the hole down to the flat/low section, potential airflow would not have been improved (because air can only exhaust as fast as it can come in through the intake openings) and I would have run the risk of a leaking roof. Thanks for watching.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne the size of the intakes is a good point, by the air that is coming in and mixing with moisture from inside the can, and heating up therefore expanding and increasing in volume, so keeping the intake and outake similar in volume will make the exhaust capacity inadequate, so now intake and exhaust both put a damper on ventilation, as for the water leaks, simply leave tabs on the lower sections of roof when you cut the hole so in effect the raised section of roof will have a bigger hole, bend them up to make dams against water intrusion under your seal. also i suggest you increase the size of your intake. the whirly bird with no intake capacity is akin to high flow exhaust on your car but keeping a very restrictive factory intake, its almost pointless, or at least not coming anywhere near its potential, which begs the question, what's the point?
@@naterchapman1871 I applaud your enthusiasm and appreciate the interaction however, as a certified commercial/residential building inspector for nearly 2 decades, I do know how this works. To respond to your points, I doubled the original number of intake vents. I never said the intake/exhaust were similar in volume capacity - the exhaust size is greater. Warm air rises and facilitates convection. And finally, the "system" is working; over the last 7 months I have noted a vast improvement in humidity levels to the point where it is no longer a concern.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarneiv been in construction for 25 years, I have taken the internatchi home inspection training, no offense but honestly I would not trust the "expertise" of many home inspectors.
I put a whirlybird vent like this on my building but I went ahead and cut out the original hole size but when I got ready to screw the base on the roof I used loctite expanding foam with the flame retardant in it but applied extra in the lower channels then used the self drilling screws to mount the base , next day took a putty knife and trimmed the excess foam that pushed out and I’am pretty sure water won’t leak in it around the base .
Well, Mike... seeings as my RUclips videos are free for you to view, and I don't get paid to make 'em, and nobody is forcing you to watch, feel free to turn the volume down. Regardless, thanks for watching.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne Sorry that my comment sounded so harsh. I just wanted you to know that even though I was interested in the content of the video, I couldn't watch it to the end because of the high volume irritating music. It was meant as feedback for you in your video making processes. Thanks for sharing your experience in the video.
Well, if you want to do it yourself DAP makes a professional spray foam kit that will cover 600 ft.² at 1 inch thick. The cost is $1200 from Home Depot in Canada, but I don’t know where you live so your mileage may vary on that as well as different product availability, depending on your location. I would also think that you may want to have at least 2 inches of insulation, which would mean you’d want to double up on this kit so to do it yourself, at least here in Canada, the potential cost would be north of $2500. Personally I would get some quotes on having a spray foam company come in and spray it, because my time is valuable and DIY cost is fairly high.
I also live on the west coast of BC, and the same problem comes with huge condensation . I have 53' High Cube . I installed a fan on the roof that is powered by the sun during the day and electricity at night . Vevor solar attics fan. For now, it works and it helps a lot, except that it has to be turned on almost all the time, especially at night.I fixed the problem with the roof seal with a huge amount of silicone and it works fine, no leaks whatsoever.
The struggle is real, lol. Thanks for watching.
3D print filler blocks and seal with sealer and cover with O'Henry's! 😁👍👍🇺🇸
Thanks for posting this, I had ordered a solar fan I was going to install into the door to pull air in. After watching this video I cancelled the fan and ordered the whirlybird. I had thought of doing this but didn't know how I'd install on a non-flat roof. I installed exactly as you show in this video. I'm just waiting on some side vents to finish everything. Have the same exact moisture problem in mine with a moldy ceiling. I appriciate you posting this video!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Can you tell how it ended, what was the final effect? Did it help?
@@derekr.6227 Yes it helped considerably. The problem was solved.
I already know what I'm going to do next weekend.Thank you. @@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne
Nice job as always!
Thanks!
Watching this video made me think about how much time you put into each one. Thinking about how you will explain what you will be doing and why. Putting up pictures to help explain it. Thank you for what you do, not only for the RUclipsrs but for the school. Good job ! Have a blessed day !
Much appreciated, Phillip. Thank you very much.
We put two 300mm x 300mm vents into one side of our 20 foot containers and also a solar powered whirlybird on the roof thats hard wired into the mains to continue to run during the nights.
Anyone wanting to mount a whirlybird I bought 2 adaptors from Container Creations in America and they posted them to Australia.
I like that setup!
Can you let me have the details please
While it's true that mold can only grow on organic surfaces, there is undoubtedly dirt on the surface of the top of the container. And mold CAN grow on the dirt - and it doesn't take much to provide a perfect "petri dish."
For sure!
I am wondering how the ventilation problem turned out with the increased vents and spiral vent on the roof. Did you achieve your results of no water and mold on the interior walls
Much improved. Part of the problem is that we store ice-melter in this container, which is a desiccant and attracts water. If we didn't do this the issue would be completely eliminated.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne they actually use desiccants to absorb water and keep humidity down. They sell hanging bags of calcium chloride to absorb water and reduce humidity in shipping containers.
@@JoeTheBlacksmith13 the same concept as a similar product they make for off-season RV/camper storage. Thanks for watching.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne right. So if that de-icer is a desiccant, it should be helping to reduce moisture in the air, not make matters worse. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I know… weird, right? Anyways, not a scientific controlled comparison as we’ve never NOT stored the ice melter in the container so I can’t say for certain whether removing it would change anything.
Hi. I'm wondering, Arne Larsen is a typical Scandinavian name, not everyday I hear that name in Canada. 😊
Haha… very true. My family is from 🇳🇴
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne ohh wow. I'm from Norway too. Do you know where in Norway? 👍
How did it work did this solve the issue thx
Much improved. Part of the problem is that we store ice-melter in this container, which is a desiccant and attracts water. If we didn't do this the issue would be completely eliminated.
Good to now not store anything at all against walls /the ceiling, to help that air-movement, as was discovered by that wooden door.
In a perfect world, yes, I agree. However, you and I both know that in a storage things will be stored against the walls.
Now that the general humidity issues within the container have been corrected, stuff that was stored against the walls will (hopefully) no longer have issues. The walls are built with natural grooves, which help facilitate circulation behind things, so it’s not like the back of a closet with zero air circulation.
I also have another theory. We have been storing ice-melt inside the container, and ice-melt is a desiccant so it has been drawing moisture into the container. I have a feeling that if this ice-melt were not in the container in the first place, the issue would not have been as severe.
15:49 CAN'T believe you put that BIG thing OVER that small hole
… and yet it doesn’t leak when it rains and the condensation problem has been resolved as surface area of the hole is greater than the combined surface area of the intake vents, allowing for efficient ventilation.
Thanks for watching.
Great post. Any ideas on how to insulate from heat as i plan to use a container for my dogs to sleep in.
Thanks! Spray foam, all the way. Any other will not have intimate contact and an imperfect seal between the insulation and the shell and allow for air movement... which leads to trapped condensation.
Quite the opposite of a leak, yet you still wound up on a roof 😂
Good point... lol.
did you make a video for an update?
No, I haven't but the situation was improved by the venting.
why would you only cut a small rectangle? just cut the entire dam hole out, air is liquid like water, only so much will go through that hole at once, bigger opening means more air flow.
Two reasons: "Small" is relative. The limiting factor in a convection system will be the smallest opening(s). The hole in the roof is 4" x 13", which is 52 square inches... which is greater than the combined area of the intake vents. In other words, the hole only needs to be as big as the combined area of your intake, since the INTAKES are the limiting factor. The second reason is that we get a lot of rainfall and I still needed to maintain the integrity of the roof. I wanted the lip on the roof surface so that even if a little water were to sneak past the seal, there would be less chance of it running into the opening and damage that which is stored inside. Had I cut the hole down to the flat/low section, potential airflow would not have been improved (because air can only exhaust as fast as it can come in through the intake openings) and I would have run the risk of a leaking roof. Thanks for watching.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne the size of the intakes is a good point, by the air that is coming in and mixing with moisture from inside the can, and heating up therefore expanding and increasing in volume, so keeping the intake and outake similar in volume will make the exhaust capacity inadequate, so now intake and exhaust both put a damper on ventilation, as for the water leaks, simply leave tabs on the lower sections of roof when you cut the hole so in effect the raised section of roof will have a bigger hole, bend them up to make dams against water intrusion under your seal.
also i suggest you increase the size of your intake. the whirly bird with no intake capacity is akin to high flow exhaust on your car but keeping a very restrictive factory intake, its almost pointless, or at least not coming anywhere near its potential, which begs the question, what's the point?
@@naterchapman1871 I applaud your enthusiasm and appreciate the interaction however, as a certified commercial/residential building inspector for nearly 2 decades, I do know how this works. To respond to your points, I doubled the original number of intake vents. I never said the intake/exhaust were similar in volume capacity - the exhaust size is greater. Warm air rises and facilitates convection. And finally, the "system" is working; over the last 7 months I have noted a vast improvement in humidity levels to the point where it is no longer a concern.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarneiv been in construction for 25 years, I have taken the internatchi home inspection training, no offense but honestly I would not trust the "expertise" of many home inspectors.
I put a whirlybird vent like this on my building but I went ahead and cut out the original hole size but when I got ready to screw the base on the roof I used loctite expanding foam with the flame retardant in it but applied extra in the lower channels then used the self drilling screws to mount the base , next day took a putty knife and trimmed the excess foam that pushed out and I’am pretty sure water won’t leak in it around the base .
LOL , DON'T need the useless annoying background noise
The music in the video is irritating as hell.
Well, Mike... seeings as my RUclips videos are free for you to view, and I don't get paid to make 'em, and nobody is forcing you to watch, feel free to turn the volume down. Regardless, thanks for watching.
@@facilitiesmaintenancebyarne Sorry that my comment sounded so harsh. I just wanted you to know that even though I was interested in the content of the video, I couldn't watch it to the end because of the high volume irritating music. It was meant as feedback for you in your video making processes. Thanks for sharing your experience in the video.
I took another listen and I agree, the balance is a little off… the music could be quieter. It’s not an exact science. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks any idea on product name I should look for?
Well, if you want to do it yourself DAP makes a professional spray foam kit that will cover 600 ft.² at 1 inch thick. The cost is $1200 from Home Depot in Canada, but I don’t know where you live so your mileage may vary on that as well as different product availability, depending on your location. I would also think that you may want to have at least 2 inches of insulation, which would mean you’d want to double up on this kit so to do it yourself, at least here in Canada, the potential cost would be north of $2500. Personally I would get some quotes on having a spray foam company come in and spray it, because my time is valuable and DIY cost is fairly high.