I'm doing my first Tru-oil finish on a lefty neck for a reverse Strat and am blown away by how easily it goes on and how hard it cures. I'm doing one coat a day, cuz that's all the time I have for it right now. I've done 3 and each one looks deeper and richer. Great vid!
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
In repairing a Taylor peghead ear that came unglued, I found I could lightly sand the repair then apply Tru-Oil and it blended in well with the poly finish Taylor uses.
Thank you so very much for posting the video on tru Oil, I am going to be finishing a Cherrywood neck tomorrow and was at a loss I was contemplating a low gloss tung oil but I've heard such good things about tru oil just never tried, worst case I hate it and sand it however I think your video gave me what I needed to know Thanks for the great and short clip
Well, as a CYA most folks tell you to always take everything back to bare wood and them move forward again. If you do not then the next CYA is a barrier like a vinyl sealer or at least a wash coat of shellac. I would do some test pieces to see if what you want to do will work. My guess is it will.
@ulfpulf Since this is not considered a film finish like a lacquer or urethane it is possible to attach the bridge and still finish around it with the oil. Of course this depends on how thick you want to apply the oil. Oil doesn't lend itself well to thick finishes anyway though. Now, if you plan on leveling and buffing the finish then I would probably do that before attaching the bridge., If you do it this way don;t forget to mask off the bridge area before applying the finish.
Can I spray Spraymax 2K Clear coat over my neck it was finished with tru oil. The Spraymax 2k clear is automotive clear can I steel wool it and tack cloth it and the spray the Spraymax 2K Clear over it thanks.
Thanks for the video! I have a Warmth neck that was finished in satin. I want more of a shine to it and was turned on to tru oil by some friends. Would it be possible to apply the tru oil directly to the neck without taking off the satin finish?
Jon Kaneshiro Probably, but make sure the neck is clean with no guitar polish, silicone etc on it. Also, tru oil is tough to get a high gloss out of but it will be better than satin if done properly. Good luck.
I believe Tru Oil is made of linseed oil and and hardeners, where as the traditional gunstock finish is BLO, boiled linseed oil. Its a great way to apply a very nice finish to a gunstock, easy to use and dries fast. It comes in a liquid form and spray can, it also comes in a kit all you need. I notice that the vid contained no mention of using a tack cloth to remove sanding particles between coats.
Thanks I will do some samples. From watching your video I feel confident about the body and neck. I am still concerned about how the Truoil will cover a quilted tops end grain pattern.
@ThePlaneterik Yes, the results are great. I use it mostly on necks. It is not meant to be a super high gloss product like a lacquer but it can buff up on a buffer. Be careful not to go through the layers, which are very thin.
Hello. Is there an odor to Tru Oil that will linger with the guitar? I'm not sure if I want to go with this or a tung oil. Also, do you find that the Tru Oil colors or tints the wood more dramatically than tung oil? Thanks.
I haven't noticed an odor after it is cured. Any oil will darken the wood a bit so take that into consideration. For example, for my tastes I think tru oil on rosewood is too dark.
@OBrienGuitars Nice video, and I have a question: If you are going to put a waterslide decal on the neck, can you put Tru Oil over the decal without harming it? Or would you have to put the decal on after finishing with Tru Oil? Thanks!
That's a good question, and I'm wondering about as well. And perhaps the type of fingerboard wood could make a difference as well(?), in my case it would be on a maple board.
Is this in anyway similar to products like Watco (penetrating oils w/varnish). Had a small bodied Guild “Classical” (maybe 630mm scale??) back in the early 60s that had a matt finish and I now wonder if it was an oil finish. The guitar was made entirely of honduran mahogany. Body, soundboard, neck, bracing…. all mahogany with an ebony fingerboard and no bindings or purfling. Sweet little guitar. Anyway, I’ve thought of duplicating from memory in sapele and finishing w/Watco.?????
I always appreciate your teaching me style and clarity, Robbie! I'm working on finishing a tenor ukulele with true oil. I have three coats on and want to sand and then do more. You are using fine steel wool for the neck, which I did. I used 0000. But I'm hesitant to you still wool on the body. is there a particular grit to use between coats with a pad? Thank you!
i use behlen's violin varnish. and it gets tacky SO quickly its hard to get a good smooth finish. I've heard that thinning it even a little bit will thin the resins in the wood. I went on yahoo answers and asked about it and this is one of the answers i got. just looking for clarity "Don't thin it at all. is these natural resins that carry the sound through the wood.
Thanks! Is there something I should do to the wood to prep it to receive the whitewash -- I should mention that preserving the tone of my 100 yr old pine is important...
Great video I used tru oil on my electric guitar and mandolin and love the sound....I like the nice thin finish super glossy for the real wood sound. But nice a polished look. I usually would spread it with my fingers to really feel out the grain/layers. I didn't really like having sticky fingers but I like to be in touch with my instrument all they way through the process. GREAT VIDEO AND LIVELY MUSIC i would love to play music for these videos! you gotta have more banjo.
Reply to my reply. Wow I wish I knew or had confidence in this product so much sooner the neck came out flawless I had been using Danish oil on my body which had a very nice Walnut top, I just had this beautiful shine but kept getting little dust bunnies boogerd and id wersand then put another coat of Danish oil on it kept wet sanding it down I was about ready to give up on this body is I have done work on Walnut before and it can be challenging to get a clean finish on it I thought? I wonder if I gave a 1200 grit wet sand still had the Walnut finish but a bit hazy, i put two coats of the Tru oil on and it is better than I could have ever imagined, it brought the Walnut shine right back out there's no little dust spots anywhere the shine is brilliant I'm sure I'll add a couple more coats but again thank you you put me down a path I will probably never veer from again
Hi Robert. We got a build-kit for my son. We want to go the Tru Oil route for the neck, but he wants a Vintage Amber yellowish colour on the front and back of the neck. Can I tint or dye the Tru Oil for that effect. Tnx for great videos.
I used angelus leather dye to color the guitar i am working on. Im looking at my options to finish the guitar. Do you recommend using a sanding sealer in my case before either wipe on poly or gun stock oil? thanks
Hi Robert O'Brien. Very good video. I've got an unfinished maple neck and plan to use it in a project guitar. Does it need to be sealed before apply Tru Oil or Tung Oil? Just the oil can keep the neck stable againts wheater ? Thanks.
Especially to swamp ash but still alder needs to be filled as well. Here is a video on did on one way to pore fill. You need to decide on the type of finish you will use before choosing a pore filler.
Your tips helped a few years ago.. I just stripped off a polyurethane color coat from the top of an Ibanez electric guitar. Left the natural basswood finish.. Accidentally sanded through the factory clear seal coat in a small area. Has a yellow tint in the factory coat.. The raw wood area now does not match, wood is too white natural color.. My guitar looks like a traditional accoustic Maple top in color now, after color coat was sanded off.. Nice effect, except for my mistake of sanding through the clear in a spot..... Saw your Tru-Oil idea. You said it yellows like a vintage color clear coat.. Will it be a good spot repair match next to an older poly clear coat...? Very small area near the neck.. Also, I'm in CA. Apparently Tru-Oil will not ship here anymore...? Regulations... Anything else cheap and similar in use for my little repair? Is wipe on poly really as good? Thanks! plus.google.com/109702841798725235893/posts/MxQuRzSgqXt plus.google.com/109702841798725235893/posts/cafyiTYFPrc
Glad to hear you are enjoying the videos and thanks for watching. I am not sure tru oil would completely camouflage the sand through area. You can try and see it it does. There is only one way to find out.
@MitchRulzWorld That depends how much sealer is already there. That could be a finish all by itself. If it is real thin then go ahead and apply some true oil over the top. Good luck!
If the finish is not to my liking do I need to sand it out first, or can I just shoot a nitrocellulose lacquer over it? If I don't need to sand out the Truoil would I need a vinyl sealer barrier before shooting the Nitro. Thanks again for you help.
Will is be smooth like a satin finish? rather than sticky like a gloss? Also is it ok if it gets on the edge of a rosewood fingerboard, where the fret ends are?
Great informative video! I am about to finish some White Eastern Pine guitar amp cabinets (similar to Trainwreck Amp cabs) What would you suggest I use to seal the grain prior to using the Tru-oil? Thank you.
I tried applying a bit of tru oil to a spruce top, but wasn't please with how it started to look. Some people advise putting a few coats of shellac before applying tru oil on spruce. Is this something you would recommend as well?
Hi Robert! A great trick which I use myself is to apply Tru-Oil using unbleached (and unrecycled) coffee filter papers. These prevent large amounts of waste from oil absorbed into the applicator plus they are cheap! :-)
Thanks. I forgot to mention it's a maple neck / rosewood board strat copy neck from a Yamaha Pacifica 112. It doesn't look heavily finished but the areas I hit did look a bit shinier before.
It will not buff like lacquer if that is what you are asking. However, it is possible to get a decent shine out of it. The problem is it is very thin so when leveling and buffing in a traditional sense you end up going through it.
I have up on tru oil today! I'm using it for the 1st time, I rubbed on 10 LIGHT coats. 3 per day at least 2 hours apart. Drying. Rubbed on with a small square of CLEAN tshirt cotton. I found it impossible to rub the oil on without lint straying onto the oil. It shows up and you can feel that Lint. Steel wool, Naphtha, apply and repeat. 10 times. Abort!! Steel wool the neck to matte finish. Apply 1 only coat of Howard's Feed'n'Wax. To fretboard AND neck. Perfection 1st time. No lint, hi gloss WITHOUT sticky. Very fast neck. I love the look and feel of tru oil and I dont mind the time it takes. But no thank you to lint. I did try finger rubbing it on and sure, no lint but then the oil "ridges". That's worse than lint! No more tru oil finishing. Only Howard"s Feed'n 'Wax. And don't buy that krap about build up of wax on fret board or rosewood "breathing"!! Gimme a break!
Can Tru Oil be used over a French Polish Shellac finish? Also, if one uses only the FPS finish on a guitar, as I am in the process of doing, how many applications are recommended? Finally, how do you do a final "polish" on a guitar that has been French Polished? Thanks, Steve
Yes, tru oil can be used over shellac and I recommend at least a seal coat of shellac if using oil on soundboards. The number of coats for a French polish depends on your tastes and application method. After applying a french polish shellac I rub it out to a bit higher gloss using swirl removers. You can also do nothing and have a very nice finish if done properly. Check out my online french polish course for more information on how I do it. www.obrienguitars.com/courses/french-polish/
Hi Robert, thank you for all of your excellent videos. I have a question that you may be able to answer. I have made a dreadnought guitar with the best timbers I could get. I am very happy with the sound. However, I decided to try Tru Oil instead of varnish. I applied 20 coats and sanded between each 2-3 coats. I got a nice finish but the guitar is now looking like a 20 year old rather than 2 weeks old due to scratches etc. Is it possible to varnish over the Tru Oil?
You can put shellac over it and French polish if you like. However, it will not offer you much in the way of scratch protection either. If you want a better protection then you will need to go with a synthetic resin available in products like lacquer, urethane or polyester. There is a learning curving with these products as well as an investment in equipment.
I'm just finishing my first refret and I accidentally removed some finish from the sides of my rosewood fingerboard. Could this oil be used to refinish the areas I've hit? Would it be wiser to apply it to the whole neck at once? thanks.
I know this is an older post, but you can use Tru-Oil to fill pores, I did it all the time as a retired gunsmith on gun stocks. Use sandpaper, normally I'd use 320 grit on a stock, pour on the oil, but in small dabs, and work with the grain, and it will make a paste. That paste will fill the pores with careful effort. Once that is done, go to 400 grit and above, and repeat the process once the first coat is dry. Do not sand hard, just enough to level out the first coat, wipe it off, then repeat with 1000 grit, and so on till you get it silky smooth, and all pores are filled. You can check to see if the pores are filled by using light.
Name is always been confusing... it dries dry! it doesn't stay oily. why would they call it oil I do not know..... Is basically thin, rub in polyurethane
I would first determine what finish is on the neck. It sounds like it is a lacquer or other synthetic resin. If this is the case then tru oil is not a good product to repair this with.
nice video. i've used Tru Oil (TO) on guitar necks. i swear by it now. and anyone who plays my necks ask what im using. is there a special rag you use? cuz TO is really sticky, and id be worried about fibers. ive applied it with my fingers and also used a coffee filter dipped in TO.
If you use this over a water based stained top do you need to seal it with a vinyl sealer before starting with the truoil? Thanks in advance for your reply!
Sweet thanks for the reply... I'm about to oil finish a warmoth neck I bought to replace the damaged one on my MIM strat and the info on the web is a bit all over the place. I'm gonna go with boiled linseed oil.
OBrienGuitars I hate to say it but I applied it to the fretboard (one coat) before I asked you the question and was crossing my fingers that it was okay. Is there a good way to remove the tru oil now, or should I just keep going (am I past the point of no return)?
If you remove the current finish yes but my question is why would you do that? You also do not know what wood is underneath the painted guitar. Will it even look good with an oil finish or was it painted for a reason?
Hey I'm thinking of using a tru oil on a build and I saw that you had binding on that neck so does the tru oil apply to it and does it discolour or cloud it in the thin layer that it builds up to? Other people have said it does when built up loads but I'm just looking for a thin sealant finish... Any advice would be much appreciated
Hi Robbie,Love the informitive videos you upload on guitar building! I'm a woodworker and about to "attempt" to build my 1st acoustic guitar,armed with what I have learned from you,Kent Everret,tios from LMI and everthing else I could find over tbe last3 yrs.I have almost all the parts I need.My concern is"I know wbat sound I'm listening for but I can't play a guitar!Will this foil my attempt to build a good sounding &playable guitar? Thanks Norm ,
Hi, How sticky is that? I've got a PRS guitar but unfortunately the neck gloss has been peeling off and I want to remove all the finish and apply another finish but not thick as PRS gloss. Cheers
Can I apply it over a polyurethane finished neck or do I need to sand until the polyurethane finish is gone? And also, can I use tung oil if I can't find tru oil?
Vladimir Medvedev Why would you want to put it over the poly? Is the poly not good enough? If you decide to move forward go ahead and sand the poly so the tru oil will adhere.
Vladimir Medvedev The finish is only as good as what is underneath it. So, if you don't like the poly finish you did you will be adding insult to injury I am afraid. If you sand the poly finishes well you might be able to get a decent tru oil finish over it. I prefer tru oil to tung oil. Good luck.
Many woods have open pores and if you want a level finish you need to fill them. There are many ways to do this. Check out my other videos on the subject.
Hi, I am currently working on my first electric guitar project, and I would like to use Tru Oil as a finish on my guitar body, but I will also be using ABS Plastic binding, and Paua AbaLam Purfling, will the tru oil cover these and protect them no problem?
I'm doing my first Tru-oil finish on a lefty neck for a reverse Strat and am blown away by how easily it goes on and how hard it cures. I'm doing one coat a day, cuz that's all the time I have for it right now. I've done 3 and each one looks deeper and richer. Great vid!
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
It will give you a glossy finish unless you rub it out to a satin.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks. Appreciate your feedback. oNe LovE from NYC
In repairing a Taylor peghead ear that came unglued, I found I could lightly sand the repair then apply Tru-Oil and it blended in well with the poly finish Taylor uses.
Thank you so very much for posting the video on tru Oil, I am going to be finishing a Cherrywood neck tomorrow and was at a loss I was contemplating a low gloss tung oil but I've heard such good things about tru oil just never tried, worst case I hate it and sand it however I think your video gave me what I needed to know
Thanks for the great and short clip
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Well, as a CYA most folks tell you to always take everything back to bare wood and them move forward again. If you do not then the next CYA is a barrier like a vinyl sealer or at least a wash coat of shellac. I would do some test pieces to see if what you want to do will work. My guess is it will.
@ulfpulf Since this is not considered a film finish like a lacquer or urethane it is possible to attach the bridge and still finish around it with the oil. Of course this depends on how thick you want to apply the oil. Oil doesn't lend itself well to thick finishes anyway though. Now, if you plan on leveling and buffing the finish then I would probably do that before attaching the bridge., If you do it this way don;t forget to mask off the bridge area before applying the finish.
i just bought an allparts neck. the rear of the neck is not finished. the fingerboard is ebony. i am definitely trying tru oil.thanks, great video!!
Can I spray Spraymax 2K Clear coat over my neck it was finished with tru oil. The Spraymax 2k clear is automotive clear can I steel wool it and tack cloth it and the spray the Spraymax 2K Clear over it thanks.
Thanks for the video! I have a Warmth neck that was finished in satin. I want more of a shine to it and was turned on to tru oil by some friends. Would it be possible to apply the tru oil directly to the neck without taking off the satin finish?
Jon Kaneshiro Probably, but make sure the neck is clean with no guitar polish, silicone etc on it. Also, tru oil is tough to get a high gloss out of but it will be better than satin if done properly. Good luck.
Um vez fiz poli com boneca e incrivelmente ficou muito bom. Porem nao acertei mais a proporção que dilui e catalizei. Belo vídeo Robbie
@ulfpulf Thanks. It really is a nice finish. It will coat bindings but I wouldn't use it on a fretboard.
I believe Tru Oil is made of linseed oil and and hardeners, where as the traditional gunstock finish is BLO, boiled linseed oil. Its a great way to apply a very nice finish to a gunstock, easy to use and dries fast. It comes in a liquid form and spray can, it also comes in a kit all you need. I notice that the vid contained no mention of using a tack cloth to remove sanding particles between coats.
Thanks I will do some samples. From watching your video I feel confident about the body and neck. I am still concerned about how the Truoil will cover a quilted tops end grain pattern.
I use something very similar, Formby's Tung oil finish. the application is identical as are the results.
@ThePlaneterik Yes, the results are great. I use it mostly on necks. It is not meant to be a super high gloss product like a lacquer but it can buff up on a buffer. Be careful not to go through the layers, which are very thin.
Hello. Is there an odor to Tru Oil that will linger with the guitar? I'm not sure if I want to go with this or a tung oil. Also, do you find that the Tru Oil colors or tints the wood more dramatically than tung oil? Thanks.
I haven't noticed an odor after it is cured. Any oil will darken the wood a bit so take that into consideration. For example, for my tastes I think tru oil on rosewood is too dark.
Thank you for the very helpful video as always.after the true oil Does it need any Birchwood Casey Gun stock Wax ??
@OBrienGuitars Nice video, and I have a question: If you are going to put a waterslide decal on the neck, can you put Tru Oil over the decal without harming it? Or would you have to put the decal on after finishing with Tru Oil? Thanks!
That's a good question, and I'm wondering about as well. And perhaps the type of fingerboard wood could make a difference as well(?), in my case it would be on a maple board.
Is this in anyway similar to products like Watco (penetrating oils w/varnish). Had a small bodied Guild “Classical” (maybe 630mm scale??) back in the early 60s that had a matt finish and I now wonder if it was an oil finish. The guitar was made entirely of honduran mahogany. Body, soundboard, neck, bracing…. all mahogany with an ebony fingerboard and no bindings or purfling. Sweet little guitar.
Anyway, I’ve thought of duplicating from memory in sapele and finishing w/Watco.?????
? Beautiful job, do you scrape the binding after finishing with the tru oil or do you leave the oil on? Thank you.
I do not scrape the finish off the side of the fretboard.
I love using Tru-oil. Thanks for the great video.
I always appreciate your teaching me style and clarity, Robbie! I'm working on finishing a tenor ukulele with true oil. I have three coats on and want to sand and then do more. You are using fine steel wool for the neck, which I did. I used 0000. But I'm hesitant to you still wool on the body. is there a particular grit to use between coats with a pad? Thank you!
You can use the fine scotch brite pads. They will work fine. Thanks for watching my videos.
i use behlen's violin varnish. and it gets tacky SO quickly its hard to get a good smooth finish. I've heard that thinning it even a little bit will thin the resins in the wood. I went on yahoo answers and asked about it and this is one of the answers i got. just looking for clarity "Don't thin it at all. is these natural resins that carry the sound through the wood.
Thanks! Is there something I should do to the wood to prep it to receive the whitewash -- I should mention that preserving the tone of my 100 yr old pine is important...
Great video I used tru oil on my electric guitar and mandolin and love the sound....I like the nice thin finish super glossy for the real wood sound. But nice a polished look. I usually would spread it with my fingers to really feel out the grain/layers. I didn't really like having sticky fingers but I like to be in touch with my instrument all they way through the process. GREAT VIDEO AND LIVELY MUSIC i would love to play music for these videos! you gotta have more banjo.
Thanks for the video.
You mention pore-filling first if necessary- what would you recommend for this that's compatible with Tru-oil?
Shellac and sawdust works great for this.
Reply to my reply. Wow I wish I knew or had confidence in this product so much sooner the neck came out flawless I had been using Danish oil on my body which had a very nice Walnut top, I just had this beautiful shine but kept getting little dust bunnies boogerd and id wersand then put another coat of Danish oil on it kept wet sanding it down I was about ready to give up on this body is I have done work on Walnut before and it can be challenging to get a clean finish on it I thought? I wonder if I gave a 1200 grit wet sand still had the Walnut finish but a bit hazy, i put two coats of the Tru oil on and it is better than I could have ever imagined, it brought the Walnut shine right back out there's no little dust spots anywhere the shine is brilliant I'm sure I'll add a couple more coats but again thank you you put me down a path I will probably never veer from again
Glad you found the process useful. Thanks for watching.
@HudCouto Yes you can. If it is an acoustic guitar I would seal with a coat of shellac first.
I have a guitar neck that has a light coat of clear polyurethane on it....should I use wipe on poly?
Hi Robert. We got a build-kit for my son. We want to go the Tru Oil route for the neck, but he wants a Vintage Amber yellowish colour on the front and back of the neck. Can I tint or dye the Tru Oil for that effect. Tnx for great videos.
I have never tinted tru oil. I am pretty sure the dye will tint the tru oil but I don't think it will give you the desired affect you want.
tru-oil will do this by itself just keep adding layers and eventually it will look the color of finely aged lacquer.
And what about korina wood? Does that need to be pore filled? It's hard to find information on this species!
Great video. I'll be watching many more
I used angelus leather dye to color the guitar i am working on. Im looking at my options to finish the guitar. Do you recommend using a sanding sealer in my case before either wipe on poly or gun stock oil? thanks
You are probably fine without a sanding sealer but I would do a sample board just to confirm.
Hi Robert O'Brien.
Very good video.
I've got an unfinished maple neck and plan to use it in a project guitar.
Does it need to be sealed before apply Tru Oil or Tung Oil?
Just the oil can keep the neck stable againts wheater ?
Thanks.
Did you apply polyurethane or nitrocellulose on back of neck before?
No, just tru oil.
Especially to swamp ash but still alder needs to be filled as well.
Here is a video on did on one way to pore fill. You need to decide on the type of finish you will use before choosing a pore filler.
Can I put this over top of a white wash finish?
If so, will it change the color of the white wash (yellow it)?
It probably would but not like applying directly to the wood. You could have adhesion issues as well.
Your tips helped a few years ago.. I just stripped off a polyurethane color coat from the top of an Ibanez electric guitar. Left the natural basswood finish.. Accidentally sanded through the factory clear seal coat in a small area. Has a yellow tint in the factory coat.. The raw wood area now does not match, wood is too white natural color.. My guitar looks like a traditional accoustic Maple top in color now, after color coat was sanded off.. Nice effect, except for my mistake of sanding through the clear in a spot..... Saw your Tru-Oil idea. You said it yellows like a vintage color clear coat.. Will it be a good spot repair match next to an older poly clear coat...? Very small area near the neck.. Also, I'm in CA. Apparently Tru-Oil will not ship here anymore...? Regulations... Anything else cheap and similar in use for my little repair? Is wipe on poly really as good?
Thanks!
plus.google.com/109702841798725235893/posts/MxQuRzSgqXt
plus.google.com/109702841798725235893/posts/cafyiTYFPrc
Glad to hear you are enjoying the videos and thanks for watching. I am not sure tru oil would completely camouflage the sand through area. You can try and see it it does. There is only one way to find out.
OBrienGuitars Thanks! Sticks out like a sore thumb.. May try a stain first.. Then the poly rub on idea..
@MitchRulzWorld That depends how much sealer is already there. That could be a finish all by itself. If it is real thin then go ahead and apply some true oil over the top. Good luck!
If the finish is not to my liking do I need to sand it out first, or can I just shoot a nitrocellulose lacquer over it? If I don't need to sand out the Truoil would I need a vinyl sealer barrier before shooting the Nitro.
Thanks again for you help.
Great video, thanks so much. Can you tell me if the Tru Oil can be tinted and if so what would work best?
Will is be smooth like a satin finish? rather than sticky like a gloss? Also is it ok if it gets on the edge of a rosewood fingerboard, where the fret ends are?
Yes, it can be a smooth satin finish. Put it on the side of the fretboard as well as the neck.
Great informative video! I am about to finish some White Eastern Pine guitar amp cabinets (similar to Trainwreck Amp cabs) What would you suggest I use to seal the grain prior to using the Tru-oil? Thank you.
Flame maple is not open pored and therefore no pore filling required.
I tried applying a bit of tru oil to a spruce top, but wasn't please with how it started to look. Some people advise putting a few coats of shellac before applying tru oil on spruce. Is this something you would recommend as well?
Try applying a seal coat of shellac to the spruce before applying the oil.
Not sticky at all and rubbed out with super fine steel wool and a small amount of wax it makes for a really fast neck.
Thanks for the video. Is the mahaghony body stained?
LG
Tobi
@MG2ndamendment Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Robert! A great trick which I use myself is to apply Tru-Oil using unbleached (and unrecycled) coffee filter papers. These prevent large amounts of waste from oil absorbed into the applicator plus they are cheap! :-)
Thanks. I forgot to mention it's a maple neck / rosewood board strat copy neck from a Yamaha Pacifica 112. It doesn't look heavily finished but the areas I hit did look a bit shinier before.
Olá Obrien, sabe me dizer se consigo plicar o tru oil sobre binding plástico? obrigado!
pode sim.
Does tru oil require any wet sanding/buffing? Is it possible to get a mirror shine? Thanks
It will not buff like lacquer if that is what you are asking. However, it is possible to get a decent shine out of it. The problem is it is very thin so when leveling and buffing in a traditional sense you end up going through it.
You can sand over true oil than apply lacquer coats. Am I right ?
+dekzan I guess you could but why? I would at least pout a seal coat of shellac between the layers.
I have up on tru oil today! I'm using it for the 1st time, I rubbed on 10 LIGHT coats. 3 per day at least 2 hours apart. Drying. Rubbed on with a small square of CLEAN tshirt cotton. I found it impossible to rub the oil on without lint straying onto the oil. It shows up and you can feel that Lint. Steel wool, Naphtha, apply and repeat. 10 times. Abort!! Steel wool the neck to matte finish. Apply 1 only coat of Howard's Feed'n'Wax. To fretboard AND neck. Perfection 1st time. No lint, hi gloss WITHOUT sticky. Very fast neck. I love the look and feel of tru oil and I dont mind the time it takes. But no thank you to lint. I did try finger rubbing it on and sure, no lint but then the oil "ridges". That's worse than lint! No more tru oil finishing. Only Howard"s Feed'n 'Wax. And don't buy that krap about build up of wax on fret board or rosewood "breathing"!! Gimme a break!
Hi Robert, great video, Can I use it on a Gibson Les Paul LPJ (studio finish)? It protect the color dye of the guitar? Thanks!
Can Tru Oil be used over a French Polish Shellac finish? Also, if one uses only the FPS finish on a guitar, as I am in the process of doing, how many applications are recommended? Finally, how do you do a final "polish" on a guitar that has been French Polished? Thanks, Steve
Yes, tru oil can be used over shellac and I recommend at least a seal coat of shellac if using oil on soundboards. The number of coats for a French polish depends on your tastes and application method. After applying a french polish shellac I rub it out to a bit higher gloss using swirl removers. You can also do nothing and have a very nice finish if done properly. Check out my online french polish course for more information on how I do it. www.obrienguitars.com/courses/french-polish/
Hi Robert, thank you for all of your excellent videos. I have a question that you may be able to answer. I have made a dreadnought guitar with the best timbers I could get. I am very happy with the sound. However, I decided to try Tru Oil instead of varnish. I applied 20 coats and sanded between each 2-3 coats. I got a nice finish but the guitar is now looking like a 20 year old rather than 2 weeks old due to scratches etc. Is it possible to varnish over the Tru Oil?
What is your definition of varnish?
Hi Robert, thank you for such a prompt reply. I don't actually know, I was hoping you might have suggestions,
Aidan
You can put shellac over it and French polish if you like. However, it will not offer you much in the way of scratch protection either. If you want a better protection then you will need to go with a synthetic resin available in products like lacquer, urethane or polyester. There is a learning curving with these products as well as an investment in equipment.
Thanks Robert, that's very helpful.
Aidan
How long does it take to dry before waxing it ?
I would give it at least a few days. I live in Colorado which is dry.
Is it just mineral oil? I read that Lemon Oil isn't from lemons at all. It's just lemon scented mineral oil. Are other oils basically the same too?
I'm just finishing my first refret and I accidentally removed some finish from the sides of my rosewood fingerboard. Could this oil be used to refinish the areas I've hit? Would it be wiser to apply it to the whole neck at once? thanks.
How much Tru Oil would I require to finish a full electric guitar?
A Gibson Explorer shape.
Would an 8 oz. bottle do?
Yes, you should be able to do it with that amount. Don't spill any.
Hi Mr. O'brien!! Can I use this Tru-Oil to fill pores on mahogany? Or just to finish once it is filled? Thank you for your videos!!
+MisterZavala7 I wouldn't rely on it to fill the pores. Use a pore filler for that.
I know this is an older post, but you can use Tru-Oil to fill pores, I did it all the time as a retired gunsmith on gun stocks. Use sandpaper, normally I'd use 320 grit on a stock, pour on the oil, but in small dabs, and work with the grain, and it will make a paste. That paste will fill the pores with careful effort. Once that is done, go to 400 grit and above, and repeat the process once the first coat is dry. Do not sand hard, just enough to level out the first coat, wipe it off, then repeat with 1000 grit, and so on till you get it silky smooth, and all pores are filled. You can check to see if the pores are filled by using light.
Name is always been confusing... it dries dry! it doesn't stay oily. why would they call it oil I do not know.....
Is basically thin, rub in polyurethane
Are you familiar with "Formby's" Tung oil finish? the result looks just like Tru oil
I would first determine what finish is on the neck. It sounds like it is a lacquer or other synthetic resin. If this is the case then tru oil is not a good product to repair this with.
so I use 80 grit sand paper between coats or 4 steel wool.....No mention anywhere what grit sandpaper or steel wool.....
I would sand the wood to 320 and then use steel between coats of tru oil. 80 grit would most likely ruin the wood and finish if used.
@@OBrienGuitars thanks for the reply----what steel wool--0,00,000,0000
@@telewired I use either ooo or oooo
@@OBrienGuitars thank you----
nice video. i've used Tru Oil (TO) on guitar necks. i swear by it now. and anyone who plays my necks ask what im using.
is there a special rag you use? cuz TO is really sticky, and id be worried about fibers. ive applied it with my fingers and also used a coffee filter dipped in TO.
Not sure what you mean. If it needs touching up then just lightly scuff sand the entire area and re-apply.
Great guide! What grit are you sanding with here?
fine steel wool.
Can you use tru oil to seal off the top and bindings before pore filling
I would use shellac for that.
Thank you for the video. How does Tru Oil work with plastic bindings?
+James Strange It works just fine.
Obrien é pano em algodão que vc para aplicação ?? E esponja abrasiva ?? Obrigado !
sim, algodão
+OBrienGuitars ultima comprei esse Tru oil fiquei na dúvida !! Qual tempo para passar segunda demão e as demais ?? Obrigado meu amigo !!
depende da sua regiao. Eu passo ums 3 ou 4 demãos por dia
+OBrienGuitars quantas horas de uma demão para outra ??
algumas ou até que esteja seca
If you use this over a water based stained top do you need to seal it with a vinyl sealer before starting with the truoil?
Thanks in advance for your reply!
Does the oil get applied to the fretboard as well? And if so does it have any affect on the frets or nut if there's contact?
I do not apply tru oil to the fretboard. I use lemon oil for that.
Sweet thanks for the reply... I'm about to oil finish a warmoth neck I bought to replace the damaged one on my MIM strat and the info on the web is a bit all over the place. I'm gonna go with boiled linseed oil.
OBrienGuitars Would lemon oil work well on a Maple fretboard?
David Conger Most folks put lacquer on maple to seal it well. Lemon oil wouldn't give you the protection you want.
OBrienGuitars I hate to say it but I applied it to the fretboard (one coat) before I asked you the question and was crossing my fingers that it was okay. Is there a good way to remove the tru oil now, or should I just keep going (am I past the point of no return)?
Cool video, thanks, is it possible to obtain a glossy finish? Thanks
Yes, you can get it shiny but it is not like a thick film finish like lacquer or urethane etc.
Loving the music..
Mr OBrienGuitars can i used tru oil in painted Lespaul i will removed clearcoat the i will put truoil it is possible? thanks for reply
If you remove the current finish yes but my question is why would you do that? You also do not know what wood is underneath the painted guitar. Will it even look good with an oil finish or was it painted for a reason?
Hey I'm thinking of using a tru oil on a build and I saw that you had binding on that neck so does the tru oil apply to it and does it discolour or cloud it in the thin layer that it builds up to? Other people have said it does when built up loads but I'm just looking for a thin sealant finish... Any advice would be much appreciated
Tru oil is fine for bindings. I have never had adhesion or discolor issues.
OK thanks I'll be sure to try it
What number of sand papers do you use in between the sessions? Thnx a lot for this issue!
Fine steel wool or about 1000 sandpaper will work. Remember the layers are very thin.
OBrienGuitars
Thank you... Yes i saw that... i want to make a finish on an electric bass! ;)
Is wipe on poly oil based polyurethane?
If so there's a aerosol spray.
Would that work the same way?
+Julian Taylor You can try the aerosol version as well. Good luck.
@OBrienGuitars Cool, have you tried it and are you happy with the result? Is it possible to use a buffer on it after your done?
/Erik
Is this what's used on ernie ball music man guitar necks?
Hi Robbie,Love the informitive videos you upload on guitar building!
I'm a woodworker and about to "attempt" to build my 1st acoustic guitar,armed with what I have learned from you,Kent
Everret,tios from LMI and everthing else I could find over tbe last3 yrs.I have almost all the parts I need.My concern is"I know wbat sound I'm listening for but I can't play a guitar!Will this foil my attempt to build a good sounding &playable guitar?
Thanks Norm
,
is it possible to make natural finish, but with evident grain without gloss? Like a raw wood?
Does that apply to Alder or Swamp Ash?
Another potentially silly question, but how do you go about filling the pores?
@HudCouto If you like this look the tru oil is fine for this type of finish
@MitchRulzWorld A light sanding would help.
Does the oil get hard enough to have on the guitar body?
/Erik
Hi, How sticky is that? I've got a PRS guitar but unfortunately the neck gloss has been peeling off and I want to remove all the finish and apply another finish but not thick as PRS gloss.
Cheers
Can I apply it over a polyurethane finished neck or do I need to sand until the polyurethane finish is gone? And also, can I use tung oil if I can't find tru oil?
Vladimir Medvedev Why would you want to put it over the poly? Is the poly not good enough? If you decide to move forward go ahead and sand the poly so the tru oil will adhere.
OBrienGuitars Thank you, I did the poly years ago, and I didn't do a good job. Tru oil looks like a better finish.
Vladimir Medvedev The finish is only as good as what is underneath it. So, if you don't like the poly finish you did you will be adding insult to injury I am afraid. If you sand the poly finishes well you might be able to get a decent tru oil finish over it. I prefer tru oil to tung oil. Good luck.
OBrienGuitars Thank you, with all the info I've got, I'm sure I'll get it right this time.
Vladimir Medvedev I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com
What does Pore Filled Mean and how is it done?
Many woods have open pores and if you want a level finish you need to fill them. There are many ways to do this. Check out my other videos on the subject.
so if I want a satin feel as you stated, do i use the steel wool after the final coat that I would want? i don't want the finish to be too glossy
Does it work on the fret board?
I prefer lemon oil on the fretboard as there is no build up like with Tru oil.
and can u sand down a gloss neck and make it satin and put the oil on that kind? thx
Yes, you can but why?
+OBrienGuitars i thot an oik necj was nicer then satin made from sanding gloss
hi robert ... will the oil give results if applied to a satin coating such as an american fender?
on a acoustic or steel string top as well?
Sure, be sure and seal it well with shellac first though.
@OBrienGuitars Thanks. Do I sand first?
I'm completely new to working on guitars and have a cheap kit I'm working on at the moment. Was just wondering what you mean by pore filled?
Hi, I am currently working on my first electric guitar project, and I would like to use Tru Oil as a finish on my guitar body, but I will also be using ABS Plastic binding, and Paua AbaLam Purfling, will the tru oil cover these and protect them no problem?
There is very little sawdust. If you need to you can wipe off any residue with a paper towel and then apply new coats.
Would you use tru oil on a maple fretboard?
You can but most folks use lacquer as the oil will darken the maple.