I came across your videos purely by accident. As an ex pacer of many decades i always laughed at Sunfishes as children’s boats. In 2015 I moved to NC and found a fleet of Sunfishes that race on the Neuse River. I discovered the local fleet was a lot of older guys like myself. I also discover the World’s had just been sailed in the neighborhood! I now see how a Sunfish’s setup is a lot more sophisticated than i had previously thought. I might just go down to the local dealer and pick one up. At 73 maybe there’s still one more boat in me? Thank you! 0:15
Thanks for this and all of your videos. Will be installing these and rocking a Jenns/Mendalblatt(sp?) this weekend. You've done a lot in terms of encouraging me to upgrade my boat and skills and I'm sure the greater Sunfish community as well!
Great help, Lee - I appreciate you sourcing the parts, it was difficult to find the clamcleats and your reference to the ones on Amazon were most economical. As a matter of fact it is hard to find a metal 3" horn cleat for the mast, just the nylon ones show up anywhere. I ordered a full tube of 3M 4000 marine caulk for about $22 which raised the price, but with a mix of shipping fees (I canceled Prime after the recent price hike) the order came out to $97 here in May of 2022. I have other boats I needed the caulk for so the full tube was worth it. I wasn't sure the caulk was really necessary on the sunfish boom but if it slows water leaking into the boom during a capsize that might let it drain faster with less water after righting. Don't capsize, it's not fast, I know(!)...
@@LeeSideSailing My Sunfish Bible is in storage somewhere and you have the most - by far - info on rigging for racing. The SB is also 30 years old and there has been a lot of racing since then.
I rigged a downhaul on mine. Keeps the sail flatter in stronger winds. I don't race so I don't know if it's legal or not, but it seems to work. Holding the hoop down from rising up the mast a few inches
Great video on installation. I kinda understand what they are for. Is there anyway for you to make a follow up video showing what the adjustments do in the real sailing conditions? Like show different winds and what you would adjust to help and why. Its easier for me to learn that way. Keep up the good we work.
Thanks Lee! This is a great video - very clear and helpful. What about using hose clamps to attach the out haul and cunningham cleats, like you did with the mast cleat? I’m thinking of starting with hose clamps to make sure I have the right location for my old sail, before drilling into the boom.
I got the same idea of using a hose clamp from a 2004 Windward Leg edition. After Lee’s video I am more confident in just drilling and attaching the clam cleats. But I though I’d let you know that Dick Tillman shows using a hose clamp as an option. www.sunfishclass.org/documents/Windward_Leg_summer_2004.pdf?fbclid=IwAR0kaeZr6h7d6QfYa5C0UmCPoqGSCNoQZnzS29d8ipVgdEnc3hZzNa4hFac
thanks, Lee. very helpful. I just bought a racing boat from someone who used it lightly, and who had them both already set up. both slip loose, however, right when I need them (in strong wind). time for new line (which doesn't look that worn)? or am I doing something wrong...
Make sure the cleats are in the right direction and the line is jammed into the teeth- but it shouldnt take that much tension to make it not slip, if the teeth are in the right direction. Also check the diameter of the line. If its too big or small. That can affect the hold on the line.
Nice video Lee !In your experience how effective are these additions? I know they play a huge role in a laser but not sure how much of a difference they would make on a Sunfish.
They are huge- To be able to change sail shape with changing wind conditions- bery important especially if pointing higher and depowering is important to you :)
About 2-3 different sizes. Make sure the line and the groove are similar size- they dont exactly have to be the same. Thr thinble itself is useally aboit 3/4-1 inch long.
Hey Lee, Great videos man! Ive had a standard sunfish setup and im looking to learn to use the outhaul and Cunningham do you have any suggestions, links or videos on learning to use these two controls?
Lee in Scott’s Kyles Tuning Guide he states: Secondly, the port-side cleats make for convenient re-tightening upon rounding the leeward mark. You suggest mounting the cleat on the starboard side of the boom. Why? Thanks.
Many race courses now a days are windward leeward with a gate. The windward mark is usually rounded leaving the mark in the port side, meaning yoy will be in starbord tack…. This allows you to let off the outhaul in your final approach to the windward mark. Most outhauls are now led back to the cockpit, and tightened before rounding rhe leeward gate. Hope this helps.
What brand/model is the closed end thimble you used in the video? The Amazon link'd thimbles picture looks like an open end thimble. The 1/8" thimbles I got from sail rite a few months ago look much larger than the one in the video
Im not sure as Peter (the owner) bought all the parts. I jist have him a he eric lost of things to het. Closed or open it doesnt matter. As long as it fits the diameter line you buy.
Good morning Lee. I have a question I picked up a sunfish a couple weeks ago and I am running into an issue with the daggerboard and the bungie it came with. Long story short the water I sail in has shallow areas where I would need to raise my daggerboard. The bungie my boat comes with only hooks to the mainsheet block. I can only be in the fully down position like this. Any tips on a good way to set this up? I noticed in one of your videos you were sailing a sunfish with the bungie cord attached to the coaming. How did that work out? Any advice would be helpful. I don’t race in it just takes me camping on the islands around where I live. Thanks!
Hi. You can stretch the bungee across the coaming ends…. This will cross over the dagger board trunk. Inesrt the board and the bungee should go in back of the board, putting pressure on the board, forward, to stay up. Many people add a length of rubber tubing to the cord to protect the bungee from chafing. This usually works well. If you wanted more insurance from losing the board in a capsize. Add a length of line to retain the board and make it long enough for you to move the board from the trunk.
I start in shallow water so same thing. I made a short shim out of scrap mahogany drilled a hole in it and secured to hull fitting with short line. Holds it at any height way to remove
I came across your videos purely by accident. As an ex pacer of many decades i always laughed at Sunfishes as children’s boats. In 2015 I moved to NC and found a fleet of Sunfishes that race on the Neuse River. I discovered the local fleet was a lot of older guys like myself. I also discover the World’s had just been sailed in the neighborhood! I now see how a Sunfish’s setup is a lot more sophisticated than i had previously thought. I might just go down to the local dealer and pick one up. At 73 maybe there’s still one more boat in me? Thank you! 0:15
Can never have too many boats;). But a sunfish is a low risk investment as their resale value is high, just in case you need to sell it. Enjoy!
Thanks for this and all of your videos. Will be installing these and rocking a Jenns/Mendalblatt(sp?) this weekend. You've done a lot in terms of encouraging me to upgrade my boat and skills and I'm sure the greater Sunfish community as well!
Thank you and I appreciate the comments! Seeing people getting out on the water is great and hearing i was able to help is amazing:)
Very useful !
Thank you!!
Hey Lee, thanks for this video. Super helpful. It gave me the confidence and insight I needed to install the outhaul and cunningham. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment! That is excellent!
I just replaced my outhaul per your video. Wrapped around the mast. Wow! It pulls like butter! Thank you! 😃
Excellent!!! You’re welcome :).
I didn't realize this would be so easy! Definitely going to have to try this now.
Definitely is a nice thing to have:)
Thanks for sharing your Sunfish knowledge Lee 😎👍
Thanks Ken!
Thanks Lee. A very helpful video and one I need. Steve
Awesome! The very reason i make them… :)
Thanks!
Appreciate it Lee!
Great help, Lee - I appreciate you sourcing the parts, it was difficult to find the clamcleats and your reference to the ones on Amazon were most economical. As a matter of fact it is hard to find a metal 3" horn cleat for the mast, just the nylon ones show up anywhere. I ordered a full tube of 3M 4000 marine caulk for about $22 which raised the price, but with a mix of shipping fees (I canceled Prime after the recent price hike) the order came out to $97 here in May of 2022. I have other boats I needed the caulk for so the full tube was worth it. I wasn't sure the caulk was really necessary on the sunfish boom but if it slows water leaking into the boom during a capsize that might let it drain faster with less water after righting. Don't capsize, it's not fast, I know(!)...
Excellent!!! Glad to hear my video was able to help:)
@@LeeSideSailing My Sunfish Bible is in storage somewhere and you have the most - by far - info on rigging for racing. The SB is also 30 years old and there has been a lot of racing since then.
Yes there has been lots of changes!
@@LeeSideSailing 👍 Woohoo.
I rigged a downhaul on mine. Keeps the sail flatter in stronger winds. I don't race so I don't know if it's legal or not, but it seems to work. Holding the hoop down from rising up the mast a few inches
Flat sails in heavy wind definitely good for balancing the boat!
Great video on installation. I kinda understand what they are for. Is there anyway for you to make a follow up video showing what the adjustments do in the real sailing conditions? Like show different winds and what you would adjust to help and why. Its easier for me to learn that way. Keep up the good we work.
Thanks. On the list of to do items:)
Nice shirt
Thanks Lee! This is a great video - very clear and helpful. What about using hose clamps to attach the out haul and cunningham cleats, like you did with the mast cleat? I’m thinking of starting with hose clamps to make sure I have the right location for my old sail, before drilling into the boom.
If you have the sail on and use the measurememts. You should be good. :)
I got the same idea of using a hose clamp from a 2004 Windward Leg edition. After Lee’s video I am more confident in just drilling and attaching the clam cleats. But I though I’d let you know that Dick Tillman shows using a hose clamp as an option.
www.sunfishclass.org/documents/Windward_Leg_summer_2004.pdf?fbclid=IwAR0kaeZr6h7d6QfYa5C0UmCPoqGSCNoQZnzS29d8ipVgdEnc3hZzNa4hFac
Excelent
Thx
thanks, Lee. very helpful. I just bought a racing boat from someone who used it lightly, and who had them both already set up. both slip loose, however, right when I need them (in strong wind). time for new line (which doesn't look that worn)? or am I doing something wrong...
Make sure the cleats are in the right direction and the line is jammed into the teeth- but it shouldnt take that much tension to make it not slip, if the teeth are in the right direction. Also check the diameter of the line. If its too big or small. That can affect the hold on the line.
Nice video Lee !In your experience how effective are these additions? I know they play a huge role in a laser but not sure how much of a difference they would make on a Sunfish.
They are huge- To be able to change sail shape with changing wind conditions- bery important especially if pointing higher and depowering is important to you :)
What size thimbles did you use?
About 2-3 different sizes. Make sure the line and the groove are similar size- they dont exactly have to be the same. Thr thinble itself is useally aboit 3/4-1 inch long.
Hey Lee, Great videos man! Ive had a standard sunfish setup and im looking to learn to use the outhaul and Cunningham do you have any suggestions, links or videos on learning to use these two controls?
Thanks…. I think i do -- let me check
ruclips.net/video/CwfOozvP5NI/видео.html. Will explain what they do…. Experiment on what works for you!
Baddum ah da boom. Lol. 😄
Lee in Scott’s Kyles Tuning Guide he states: Secondly, the port-side cleats make for convenient re-tightening upon rounding the leeward mark. You suggest mounting the cleat on the starboard side of the boom. Why? Thanks.
Many race courses now a days are windward leeward with a gate. The windward mark is usually rounded leaving the mark in the port side, meaning yoy will be in starbord tack…. This allows you to let off the outhaul in your final approach to the windward mark. Most outhauls are now led back to the cockpit, and tightened before rounding rhe leeward gate. Hope this helps.
Hey Lee, Nice info, thank you. Any tips on a new sail? Also, the last 4 digits of my hull number is J900.
You’re welcome. If you want to race then try to get yourself a class legal sail. If you just want to cruise around, get a sail that you like :)
That number looks like 2000 boat.
What brand/model is the closed end thimble you used in the video? The Amazon link'd thimbles picture looks like an open end thimble. The 1/8" thimbles I got from sail rite a few months ago look much larger than the one in the video
Im not sure as Peter (the owner) bought all the parts. I jist have him a he eric lost of things to het. Closed or open it doesnt matter. As long as it fits the diameter line you buy.
@@LeeSideSailing thanks
Good morning Lee. I have a question I picked up a sunfish a couple weeks ago and I am running into an issue with the daggerboard and the bungie it came with. Long story short the water I sail in has shallow areas where I would need to raise my daggerboard. The bungie my boat comes with only hooks to the mainsheet block. I can only be in the fully down position like this. Any tips on a good way to set this up? I noticed in one of your videos you were sailing a sunfish with the bungie cord attached to the coaming. How did that work out? Any advice would be helpful. I don’t race in it just takes me camping on the islands around where I live. Thanks!
Hi. You can stretch the bungee across the coaming ends…. This will cross over the dagger board trunk. Inesrt the board and the bungee should go in back of the board, putting pressure on the board, forward, to stay up. Many people add a length of rubber tubing to the cord to protect the bungee from chafing. This usually works well. If you wanted more insurance from losing the board in a capsize. Add a length of line to retain the board and make it long enough for you to move the board from the trunk.
@@LeeSideSailing Thank you Lee, I will try that, for sure. Would 5mm be the standard size, or would you suggest something thicker? Thanks again!
You can get a normal bungee at your bungee cord store. :)
@@LeeSideSailing That works too haha.
I start in shallow water so same thing. I made a short shim out of scrap mahogany drilled a hole in it and secured to hull fitting with short line. Holds it at any height way to remove