A brilliant video. Engineering excellence. Don’t forget to put engine oil in it! p.s. thank you Burton for developing new versions of those 2cv parts which are so difficult to find
Looks like changing the fan belt would be a fairly involved chore. You should have ended the vid with this engine installed and start it up with sound.
You will probably know by now but just to say, last w/e I replaced the internals of the Oil Filler/Breather/Filter unit off my 1987 2CV Dolly bought 2 months ago. After just replacing the (perforated) exhaust cross box and fixing some leaking clamped joints, I found the nearside exhaust manifold gasket was blowing at the cylinder head. With wings and other engine bay parts removed to fit the replacement manifold kit (gaskets, studs, nuts, etc), I used the opportunity to refurbish it. This involves separating the seamed-together, brass Breather Top & Bottom Halves by grinding/filing around the seam until they split. This was done on recommendation of two 2CV specialists (ex-2CV City) near Bradford. My engine was covered in old oil and a malfunctioning Filler/Breather can seemingly cause pressure build up as both pistons reciprocate in/out of the crankcase void, forcing oil out of several possible joints. The kit I used was supplied by The 2CV Shop UK and to be honest, I struggled a bit to reassemble it. This was not helped by all the written instructions being in French only! A long time was spent translating, then viewing videos. The method used to secure the two body halves back together was via two clamp rings, one full, one necessarily split in two. With multiple clamp screws, it is not as neat or simple as the split-thread Burton one they have used on their videoed item, but did the job. I also ended up with a large sealing washer left over. The instruction photos seemed to show only two (one for the body's clamped joint seal, the other being the Filler Cap Seal) yet 3 were in the kit. Perhaps an error on my part, but despite no obvious place for it, it seems to function correctly - I hope! The small breather pipe (returning excess oil to the sump via the dipstick tube) on the lower half also had to be bent in by some 3mm to pass the ring over, onto the body, up to the flange. A risky operation, a small semicircle cut away inside the clamp ring being a better option imho. Sorry for the extended reply, but I also hope my experience might help others new to this repair. I found no source of help in English for this. Unlike me, BEFORE splitting, I remind those others to first MARK the TWO HALF BODIES axially to correctly realign them radially when clamping them back together. Despite me managing this, the short rubber hose would not reassemble to join the 2 opposing 8mm brass tubes. Their ends were too close together, and not in line, to allow it to. I made a new tube from 8mm bore soft silicone-type tubing, about 200mm long, forming it into a loop to indirectly join up the two short brass pipes. I made sure this loop top was below the brass drain tube body outlet.
The best instruction film I have seen so far.
Ihr habt die richtige Liebe für die 2CV! Ein Kunde
A brilliant video. Engineering excellence. Don’t forget to put engine oil in it!
p.s. thank you Burton for developing new versions of those 2cv parts which are so difficult to find
Thank you, it will help me a lot in the restoration of my 2cv that I'm doing on my youtube channel.
Merci pour cette vidéo elle nous aide beaucoup. Bravo.
Il est magnifique et je suis d'ailleurs moi même en cours de restauration d'un moteur 602cc 👌
Looks like changing the fan belt would be a fairly involved chore. You should have ended the vid with this engine installed and start it up with sound.
Thanks for the suggestion! We will take it into account for upcoming videos.
Min 5:18
Could someone tell me what that "brass thing" being put on is?
Thanks.
You will probably know by now but just to say, last w/e I replaced the internals of the Oil Filler/Breather/Filter unit off my 1987 2CV Dolly bought 2 months ago. After just replacing the (perforated) exhaust cross box and fixing some leaking clamped joints, I found the nearside exhaust manifold gasket was blowing at the cylinder head. With wings and other engine bay parts removed to fit the replacement manifold kit (gaskets, studs, nuts, etc), I used the opportunity to refurbish it. This involves separating the seamed-together, brass Breather Top & Bottom Halves by grinding/filing around the seam until they split.
This was done on recommendation of two 2CV specialists (ex-2CV City) near Bradford. My engine was covered in old oil and a malfunctioning Filler/Breather can seemingly cause pressure build up as both pistons reciprocate in/out of the crankcase void, forcing oil out of several possible joints.
The kit I used was supplied by The 2CV Shop UK and to be honest, I struggled a bit to reassemble it. This was not helped by all the written instructions being in French only! A long time was spent translating, then viewing videos. The method used to secure the two body halves back together was via two clamp rings, one full, one necessarily split in two. With multiple clamp screws, it is not as neat or simple as the split-thread Burton one they have used on their videoed item, but did the job. I also ended up with a large sealing washer left over. The instruction photos seemed to show only two (one for the body's clamped joint seal, the other being the Filler Cap Seal) yet 3 were in the kit. Perhaps an error on my part, but despite no obvious place for it, it seems to function correctly - I hope!
The small breather pipe (returning excess oil to the sump via the dipstick tube) on the lower half also had to be bent in by some 3mm to pass the ring over, onto the body, up to the flange. A risky operation, a small semicircle cut away inside the clamp ring being a better option imho.
Sorry for the extended reply, but I also hope my experience might help others new to this repair. I found no source of help in English for this. Unlike me, BEFORE splitting, I remind those others to first MARK the TWO HALF BODIES axially to correctly realign them radially when clamping them back together. Despite me managing this, the short rubber hose would not reassemble to join the 2 opposing 8mm brass tubes. Their ends were too close together, and not in line, to allow it to. I made a new tube from 8mm bore soft silicone-type tubing, about 200mm long, forming it into a loop to indirectly join up the two short brass pipes. I made sure this loop top was below the brass drain tube body outlet.
TOP !