@@rayc1503 that's not correct the permissible drop is due to the meter its nothing to do with the appliances. Hence different allowances for different meters.
@@liamc9425 I've been GSR for over 10 years now. You're allowed absolutley no drop on new pipework. If it's old or existing 4mb on the appliances not the pipework of U6 meter. 8mb on the appliances not the pipework of an E6 meter. If there's any drop at all your supposed to isolate all appliances and test the pipework. If that fails Sir then it's a fail. If in any case the customer reports to you he/she has smelt gas then it's also a fail, simple. Go back to your handbook and correct me if I'm wrong or look up BS 6891:2015: or IGEM/UP/1B TT & purging. Passed my GasSafe inspections and ACS no problems. It's more common sense then anything else.
If the ECV is letting by then you don't need to cap the ECV off as is not escaping it's just not able to be isolated and is letting by, you can leave it on and attach a warning label and contact the gas supplier and take your reference number. Then once it's fixed return to the job and continue with the tests..... Cheers for the video it is the best tightness test video on RUclips
RUclips Hero thank you, I totally agree with you and you do not have to cap it off. I have had it twice in the past and I have capped it off and waited for the supplier to attend site to repair, I personally wouldn't leave site (I'm over cautious) I believe you cant be to careful. 👌🏻
Interesting differences. In Chile we follow the Australian standard with the test at 180 mm H2O (18 mBar, natural gas) or 280 mm H2O (28 mBar - LPG) with a permissible drop of 7 mm H2O (0.7 mBar), and the test goes on for 5 min or more depending on the length of the pipework tested.
It's always great to see how different countries do different tests etc, in our country the tests for LPG and oil are very different. Thank you for the comments
Dude never on the pipework only on the appliances themselves. If the tightness test fails. Isolate all the appliances and retest. If it fails on the pipework. Then it's fail full stop. Then you inform the responsible person. If they agree for repair then repair it. If not cap it cutomer signed notice and onto cadent 😊
No sir that meter is a u6, E6 is a small electronic gas meter with digital backlit display, internal shut off valve. A U6 and SC6 meters incorporate a measuring unit with a two litre cyclic volume designed to accurately meter volumes in all natural gas and LPG applications. 👌🏼💪🏻
There are only two real reasons this would occur, if there isn't a strainer placed into the regulator or that the distance between the regulator and the valve in insufficient (mainly new builds) If this is the case and it does lock out the solution is very simple really.
John Warner yes really. In past times "washing up liquid' was the go to product for gas fitters, any 'bubble' solution is fine to use such as soapy water for instance. However I should have stated in the video that I wouldn't recommend using washing up liquid as it 'can' corrode the fittings if left! However IF it's all you have to use then it will do the job. It's always better to test than not to....... (Agreed as a gas fitter you should carry leak detector with u, like I do)
This is true, you shouldn't use pure washing up liquid it a very old timers trick however if it's all you have to hand them I would rather use it and make sure there isn't a leak than not use it if I'm honest😂. Make sure it's properly wiped afterwards and it won't be an issue. Thanks ray
Thanks, I'm planning to cap off an old unused gas fire. I'm not a professional, but I do consider myself competent and want to do it safely and by the book. This clarified the test procedure for me.
what about purge and relight ?
Tony Shepherd that is covered in a different video👌🏼
@@PlumbingGy how can I find the video
Love this video! It's really going to help with my ACS course I'm currently taking. Thanks!
Victoria Banner thank you I hope it helps 😁👌🏻💯
You totally failed to mention the permissible drop allowed for in different meter types, u6 is 4 mbar and e6 is 8mbar. Tut tut.
TheMightyquinn67 agreed I did forget thank you for noting this in the comments 👌🏻
Yep and it's only allowable on appliances. Not the actual pipework itself 🤔(pipework fails)
@@rayc1503 that's not correct the permissible drop is due to the meter its nothing to do with the appliances. Hence different allowances for different meters.
@@liamc9425 I've been GSR for over 10 years now. You're allowed absolutley no drop on new pipework. If it's old or existing 4mb on the appliances not the pipework of U6 meter. 8mb on the appliances not the pipework of an E6 meter. If there's any drop at all your supposed to isolate all appliances and test the pipework. If that fails Sir then it's a fail. If in any case the customer reports to you he/she has smelt gas then it's also a fail, simple. Go back to your handbook and correct me if I'm wrong or look up BS 6891:2015: or IGEM/UP/1B TT & purging. Passed my GasSafe inspections and ACS no problems. It's more common sense then anything else.
@@rayc1503 as I said permissible drop is dependent on the meter. 🙄
If the ECV is letting by then you don't need to cap the ECV off as is not escaping it's just not able to be isolated and is letting by, you can leave it on and attach a warning label and contact the gas supplier and take your reference number. Then once it's fixed return to the job and continue with the tests.....
Cheers for the video it is the best tightness test video on RUclips
RUclips Hero thank you, I totally agree with you and you do not have to cap it off. I have had it twice in the past and I have capped it off and waited for the supplier to attend site to repair, I personally wouldn't leave site (I'm over cautious) I believe you cant be to careful. 👌🏻
Interesting differences. In Chile we follow the Australian standard with the test at 180 mm H2O (18 mBar, natural gas) or 280 mm H2O (28 mBar - LPG) with a permissible drop of 7 mm H2O (0.7 mBar), and the test goes on for 5 min or more depending on the length of the pipework tested.
It's always great to see how different countries do different tests etc, in our country the tests for LPG and oil are very different. Thank you for the comments
Great job on explaining about the gas. Thanks for sharing and keep going.
A test can fail up to 4mbar on old pipework with appliances with no smell of gas on that meter but not with a “new installation “ of pipework!
Dude never on the pipework only on the appliances themselves. If the tightness test fails. Isolate all the appliances and retest. If it fails on the pipework. Then it's fail full stop. Then you inform the responsible person. If they agree for repair then repair it. If not cap it cutomer signed notice and onto cadent 😊
Well made video! You seem very knowledgeable!
Hi. How should this manometer be filled in with the fluid. Thank you.
Open one end and fill slowly under a tap, or use filler fluid from the merchants
did he discribe that meter as an U6 meter? isn't that meter an E6 meter?
No sir that meter is a u6, E6 is a small electronic gas meter with digital backlit display, internal shut off valve.
A U6 and SC6 meters incorporate a measuring unit with a two litre cyclic volume designed to accurately meter volumes in all natural gas and LPG applications. 👌🏼💪🏻
E6 meters are half the size of u6 that’s the dead giveaway 😂
Do you not think regulator can get locked while turning ecv valve back to on position quickly
There are only two real reasons this would occur, if there isn't a strainer placed into the regulator or that the distance between the regulator and the valve in insufficient (mainly new builds)
If this is the case and it does lock out the solution is very simple really.
Dan what you have shown here in this video, will that be sufficient to pass this part of the course/exam?
Yes as all the key areas are mentioned apart from the allowable drop that I forgot to mention in the vid 😬
Do It All Dan great Dan! Just what I need then. I'll watch this vid every day until it's sunked in 😉
Thankyou very much . Good for knowledge purposes
Washing up liquid?? Really?
John Warner yes really. In past times "washing up liquid' was the go to product for gas fitters, any 'bubble' solution is fine to use such as soapy water for instance. However I should have stated in the video that I wouldn't recommend using washing up liquid as it 'can' corrode the fittings if left! However IF it's all you have to use then it will do the job. It's always better to test than not to....... (Agreed as a gas fitter you should carry leak detector with u, like I do)
Fair play Dan, I just never thought of it. But how corrosive can washing up liquid be FFS
John Warner very corrosive over a long period but as long as the joints have been thoroughly cleaned after then it will be ok 😁👌🏼 thanks john
I learned not to use washing up liquid as was always told it was acidic ? no? Good video by the way.....
This is true, you shouldn't use pure washing up liquid it a very old timers trick however if it's all you have to hand them I would rather use it and make sure there isn't a leak than not use it if I'm honest😂. Make sure it's properly wiped afterwards and it won't be an issue.
Thanks ray
great video.thanks for taking the time
Thank you Jason I really appreciate your support 👌🏻
Isn't it G4 meter
no 👍
Are you a HVAC engineer
good
Renny Z thank you 👌🏻
as longs as the DIY DOES not attemp this
Educational purposes in description 👍🏻
Thank u so much
Not a problem hope it helps
What is hvac
Col Oliver it stands for Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning ✌🏻
you forgot to mention the temporary earth bonding when you disconnect the meter ?
We're not disconnecting only testing.
Thanks, I'm planning to cap off an old unused gas fire. I'm not a professional, but I do consider myself competent and want to do it safely and by the book. This clarified the test procedure for me.