IMPORTANT NOTE ON SCALE If the size of your output matters, eg: you need the plot to be an exact size. You must use the measure tool to measure the distance in mm between the two arrows generated by the plugin and add that number to your offset on the second number. For my documents, the ratio of px -> mm was not 1:1, so the plugin's scale was completely off and it generated giant outputs compared to the scale in the document. For mine: Pen Offset: 28mm, 44mm Measured distance in mm between arrowheads: 26.46mm 1st Arrow: 28.0, 44.0, 0.0 2nd Arrow: 54.46, 44.0, 0.0
For everyone who is having trouble with missing arcs (G2/G3 support disabled), and does not want to hassle with firmware updates. There is a simple workaround in Inkscape. 1.When you create your vector path, double click on it, to enter the node editor. CTRL+A to select all the nodes. 2.Click Insert new nodes button to add more nodes in the curves (every time you click this command, your curve has more points and it gets finer in curvature). 3.While the nodes still selected, click the Make selected segment line command, to turn the spaces between the nodes into lines. As a result, there will be no G2/G3 commands in the code which the stock firmware does not recognize.
i did this. what i did, is instead of using a rubber band based mount, i just had a gravity based pen holder. it works with permanent markers and felt tip pens and i get amazing results. also, the software i used was prusa slicer, openscad (for importing and extruding the .svg), and inkscape.
Yeah. You can also do the opposite. Cover the entire blank copper board with sharpie and then use a scratch awl attached to your printer to finely remove the sharpie. I printed an adapter for my printer that holds the awl with a sleeve and spring, so it stays vertical and retracts slightly when it makes contact. Here is a good video on this technique: ruclips.net/video/sNh0ubRcTYU/видео.html
Why don't you just print your layout onto some glossy magazine paper with a laser printer and then iron it onto your pcb? Way quicker than a sharpie plot. Regards, Etna.
I've been trying this in the new version of inkscape (1.0) and the Beta expansion of the Jtech tool. The Gcode generating worked for objects, but text wasn't transformed properly. After quite a while we found out that you had to UNGROUP text and then it worked fine. You can regroup it again and it still works.
If you zoom in even further, you'll find that the pixels for a photo of Chuck Norris are made up of thousands of tiny Nokia 3210's. .... Which are still at 92% charge...
thanks a lot. worked for me on my diy 3d printer. but the link for KM-Laser (hatch fill) doesnt have the pallets folder. I dont know why and i couldnt find one.
A 3D printer is literally a base non-humanoid robot, kinda like those KUKA arms, it's amazing how much possibilies you can do with it given the correct tools on its "hand" i think i've seen an ad for a multipurpose attachment somewhere, and one of them was a cookie glaze extuder, cool af
This no longer seems to work, I've downloaded all the files as in the video, one file has been removed from the downloads (Paletts/KM-Laser.gpl) and rest of the downloads are not the same as in the video. Thanks
If you modify line 3120 in laser.py to match your offset you don't have to input it everytime. My offsets were x:15 y:35 so my new line was points = [[15.,35.,0,],[115.,35.,0,],[0.,100.,0.]] and it showed it correctly on pronterface. You must put the image within the new drawn origin.
After adding the new text to the header in laser.py, my line numbers have all changed. Can you tell me what you changed here? Just so I can make sure I am changing the right line...
you could also mount one of those small laser modules to it. You wouldnt even need to change the g code since just moving the head up means the laser isnt focused
Cool but there is a loot of error on corners. As i understand CNC machines dont have jerk like 3d printers and because pen is not pressure related like extruding plastic maybe You can set Jerk value to 0. This will stop moving pen on each junction of Gcode move but in theory it will improve acuuracy when You moving this fast.
would you make a new video with the 1.0 update? It would be a great help try everything as far as my knowledge goes. I downloaded version 1.0 and had problems in the designated directory area in JTP Lacer with the previous version 0.92.5 I have the same issue. Directory does not exist! Please specify existing directory at option tab!
Have you tested these plug-ins with Inkscape 1.0 ? I'm having trouble with the procedure at about 8:00: in the video. I bring up the Laser parameters, change the Laser On/ Laser Off codes and set the speeds and click apply and it throws an error . Invalid syntax laser.py line 51. I can see reinstalling with the 0.92 version, but thought I'd ask There is an open issue on github for the KNR Laser package about updating for compatibility with Inkscape 1.0. Haven't gotten as far as the JMR plug-in. Anyway.. love your video, but it goes SO quick. I'm a noobe to Inkscape so have trouble with all the extra little clicks and changes (like bringing up the Fill/Shadow control panel. It's all wonderful and I just go back and replay one bit at a time. So THANK YOU. for this video. Really good stuff. Have you done one on using a drag knife for using the printer as a cutter? Could see using this same program, but there is a lot of fine detail about cutting sharp corners and curves. that isn't as straight forward as plotter work. That would be REALLY useful and so far I haven't seen one out there. I have a Anet 8 Plus coming this weekend and the first job is printing brackets for a pen and a Roland drag knife. It's a good platform at 300x300 with a glass bed for doing vinyl cutting. That's the 2nd project after the brackets :) I'll see about re-installing 0.92 and see if the problem goes away. Thanks Mike, and stay safe..
Thanks for the video. I usually use LaserWeb for my laser proyects, but i will try this changing the commands as you to try drawing with a pen or engraving with a dremel. !
HIi Michael, I found my stock Ender-3 does not print the arcs at all. I found that early at the G-Code (using Cura) the arcs are not drawn. Can you give some advise here?
While I'm figuring my own way, instead of pen, I put a vinyl cutting drag knife, the cutting depth is rather interesting and sensitive matter. I might missed some things in this video that I can transfer about setting the z height, so, are there ways to set that up in inkscape? I tried with cura and it works with many hassles, but the largest problem is that the svg reader or image converter didn't work really well to generate single wall toolpath in cura
i m not able to see those extensions even after copying and pasting those files to extensions folder. Why its not showing in the extensions tab? I relaunched the app after pasting but still its not showing on version 1.0
Great stuff! Would be cool to see conversion into engraving machine using dremel of proxxon rotary tool, especially controlling the depth of cut. for example to engrave back lit simpit panels, etc. Thank you Michael! Cheers! Phil.
I would send you best regards and thank you in advance cause i was looking for something like this so i didnt have to change my firmware MARLIN or had to rewire my motors to a cnc shield, i will just change de inkscape stuff with my ramps 1.4 and disconect the hotend, and convert my 3d printer into 2 plotter brilliant thanks again!!!.
hi.i changed my 3d printer to 2d plotter but when i remove extruder and fan my printer give an error for tempreture and stoped.Can you guide me? my printer is cr10s pro.
Hi, I am new for 3d printer setting,, i have just pen holder attached on Z. how to set Z for pen holder not having sencer with it. , it was setup for nozzel and sencer
surprised someone doesn't 3d print a pen holder for the 3d printer that can take the place of the nozzle. then use the "laser" or some other extension to addon a pen "activator"
I have been experimenting with something similar, but there is one thing I have not been able to figure out; how do you respond to the person who says "That's very interesting, but why did you not just click "Print", and send it to your inkjet (or laser) printer?" :o)
hey, so when I view the gcode in pronter face it looks great, but when i print it on my 3d printer it draws the hatch infill perfect but the outlines are just some random lines that are completely different than it is supossed to draw, but some lines are correct but thats just a really small percentage. So do you have any idea why this happens? edit: I found out that it does print the straight lines correctly, doesn't matter at what angle the lines are. but it doesn't print lines that are slightly bend/curved. edit 2: I found out that my anet a6 doesn't know what 'G2' and 'G3' means so I searched for those codes in the laser.py file and edited them to 'G1' and now its working!!
ok. You never answer.But if you answer one day I have a question.I am using inkscape now, but the pen does not move on the z-axis and draws extra lines. Please guide
I would try using a pen with easily replaceable ink and just glue it to the mount and screw the mount to the printer somehow. I might give this a try. Good work, thanks for the idea.
one biggest issue with inscape is it always doesn't fit the build area as like in 3d printing. Its very easy in 3d printing to set the model just inside the build volume. but in drawing case we don't seem to have one good software to do this.
Why don't you set your document size in Inkscape to the bedsize of your printer? If there is some strange conversion happening between the software, it should be pretty easy to figure that scaling error out by placing some objects on Inkscape, load the gcode in your 3D printer software and see where the objects end up. Then you can readjust your documentsize to a value that fits your bed. Just keep in mind that the nozzle-path your 3D printer software draws is offset from where your pen will be drawing on the paper in the real world.
And is not easier to use a 3D file of 0.2mm in thickness then in cura set temp. to 0 and not filling the printer with filament, bed temp to 0 and just set the pen at zero when you home the printer and go!, It will print one layer and that's what we want, Isn't?
The "robust surface" can be a craft cutting mat or one of those super thin cutting boards (about 1 mm thick). There are also craft mats (made for cutting machines) that you can get at craft stores that have a sicky surface for holding down the paper/vinyl/fabric that you are cutting.
HI! i sucsessfuly can apply every thing from your video. but i had one unimportant but annoying problem. when i make a hatch fill with 45° the printer it like 2-3 times and some other lines are drowned multiple times. do you or anyone else know what could cause these problems?
After going back and forth, there's the caveat on doing this as mentioned in the remco's thingiverse; basically you can't do this with a stock Ender 3 because of the firmware not supporting G2 and G3 commands, aw..
If someone is still checking these comments... On Mac running 10.15.3. Inkscape requires version 1.0 and the JTech plugin does not work. If I leave the orientation notation default, Gcode is produced, however, if I edit the orientation notation to include my specific X, Y offset numbers - NO Gcode is produced. If anyone has some troubleshooting ideas, love to hear them. Thanks!
Make sure to select the object you want to plot before hitting apply. ie use the 'mouse pointer tool up the top left and then click on the image you imported so that it has the resize arrows showing.
How about a mount for a rotary tattoo pen from amazon? I'm sure you could find someone who want Chuck Norris on their arm. Seriously who wouldn't want that? :)
you could propably only cnc foam with a dremel since neither the frame nor the stepper motors should be strong enough for much else, extrudings does hardly cause any force compared to routing,
So I've exported my G-code after altering the laser.py file, but Cura will not read it because "the g-code representation may not be accurate." Can someone help a fellow out?
Solved: Cura does not accept G-Codes if the header and/or footer has been tampered with. You either have to use another slicer program or run it on the printer and see how it turns out.
You probably never made a single under or overexposed photo or video clip, because you don't know what those even mean. Your comment is useless and has nothing to do with the video, pls leave toxicity out of here. Cheers!
Very useful Video! I designed my own pen holder to fit with the bltouch upgrade and you helped me a lot finding the right software! However, I got a problem with G2/G3 arcs: the printer (Ender 3 Pro) fully supports them, but Inkscape doesn't output the right G-code, I've already checked by visualizing it in Cura. Did anyone have a similar problem?
@@KernsJW oh yes: basically the ender 3 motherboard does not have enough memory to manage both the bltouch probe and the arc support. The new bltouch firmware has G2 and G3 disabled, so I guess the only option would be to change motherboard..
@@mauco4037 Did you try to just edit the Gcode in a text editor and replace all the G2 and G3 texts with G1? Might be a bit off from the original, but if the arcs are short enough maybe it still looks okay?
@@ProtonOne11 there were too many g2/g3s to replace and I couldn't find a converter... But I still figured it out! It didn't work because I installed a bltouch on a stock ender 3 and there was no space left for g2 support in the firmware. As the bltouch itself was not working that well with the stock board, I decided to buy a skr mini E3 board and all of my problems vanished. Bltouch working flawlessly, printer supports arcs, steppers are silent... So yeah, basically the solution is to change Mainboard :P
But for what?!? Isn't it easier to print on classical 2d printer? :D 3d printer is meant to print in 3 dimensions? i hope you will not make update to this video showing how to print with ink and multiple colours 😀
This seems like heaps of work for something I could knock up with ASCII characters and a dot matrix printer. Shout out if you ever did that and if you ever printed one in line-feed paper attached with perforations, you're as old as I am.
I bought this printer ruclips.net/user/postUgkxciSwynMJ7PnUvvx11rewiu-yFBkZTl53 to replace an aging HP printer. It is just used for casual home printing so I don't need anything more. Installation went easily though the HP Smart Printing doesn't work well with our laptops - having to select the actual device. Will have to see how the HP Instant Ink program works out. Plus haven't been able to set up printing from smartphone yet - either direct or WiFi
IMPORTANT NOTE ON SCALE
If the size of your output matters, eg: you need the plot to be an exact size. You must use the measure tool to measure the distance in mm between the two arrows generated by the plugin and add that number to your offset on the second number. For my documents, the ratio of px -> mm was not 1:1, so the plugin's scale was completely off and it generated giant outputs compared to the scale in the document.
For mine:
Pen Offset: 28mm, 44mm
Measured distance in mm between arrowheads: 26.46mm
1st Arrow: 28.0, 44.0, 0.0
2nd Arrow: 54.46, 44.0, 0.0
Everyone: we need to upgrade our printers.
TT: we need to downgrade our printers.
mmm actually, its an upgrade
@@blitbleep ur taking a 3d printer and making it 2d how is that an upgrade
Well, now you can make both. Plotting SVG files it's quite fun and it saves you from buying something like the axidraw. That's an upgrade.
For everyone who is having trouble with missing arcs (G2/G3 support disabled), and does not want to hassle with firmware updates. There is a simple workaround in Inkscape.
1.When you create your vector path, double click on it, to enter the node editor. CTRL+A to select all the nodes.
2.Click Insert new nodes button to add more nodes in the curves (every time you click this command, your curve has more points and it gets finer in curvature).
3.While the nodes still selected, click the Make selected segment line command, to turn the spaces between the nodes into lines.
As a result, there will be no G2/G3 commands in the code which the stock firmware does not recognize.
You are a legend! Thank you!
You are welcome 😎
I want to do that g2 g3 thing but i dont know how. Do you know how?
Hey it was long time, but is there a way to check if i have arc on in the current firmware?
Thank you man!
i did this. what i did, is instead of using a rubber band based mount, i just had a gravity based pen holder. it works with permanent markers and felt tip pens and i get amazing results.
also, the software i used was prusa slicer, openscad (for importing and extruding the .svg), and inkscape.
Replaced the ballpoint with a sharpy you could draw a pcb layout onto the board then etch it using sodium persulphate.
Yeah. You can also do the opposite. Cover the entire blank copper board with sharpie and then use a scratch awl attached to your printer to finely remove the sharpie. I printed an adapter for my printer that holds the awl with a sleeve and spring, so it stays vertical and retracts slightly when it makes contact. Here is a good video on this technique: ruclips.net/video/sNh0ubRcTYU/видео.html
@@Bennett345 That is really cool I am going to give that a try. thanks for the link.
Why don't you just print your layout onto some glossy magazine paper with a laser printer and then iron it onto your pcb? Way quicker than a sharpie plot.
Regards,
Etna.
@@Etna. Quicker yes, But not as much fun :P
@@kiwifrogg I see your point. :D
I do not believe the laser gcode tool works for Inkscape 1.2. I couldn't get it to work without finding an older version of Inkscape.
Next: Vinyl cutter XD
You could
I've been trying this in the new version of inkscape (1.0) and the Beta expansion of the Jtech tool. The Gcode generating worked for objects, but text wasn't transformed properly. After quite a while we found out that you had to UNGROUP text and then it worked fine. You can regroup it again and it still works.
Generally folders would be at the top of the file list, yours are at the bottom because of how you have them sorted.
If you zoom in even further, you'll find that the pixels for a photo of Chuck Norris are made up of thousands of tiny Nokia 3210's.
.... Which are still at 92% charge...
Haha that's awesome!
YYYEEEESSSS!!!!!! Was so looking forward to this after reading the write up on Patreon. So awesome!!!
Thank you so much for making this model! I modified my printer so much that it is barely recognizable, and I couldn't fit an attachment for a plotter.
thanks a lot. worked for me on my diy 3d printer. but the link for KM-Laser (hatch fill) doesnt have the pallets folder. I dont know why and i couldnt find one.
Simple mod : use a 4 colour pen and have colour/shading options :D
This is Still the best tutorial for using a 3D Printer as a Plotter.
It doesn't scream "low on cyan" for a BW print, I'm sold
so true! Love it.
1969: I bet we will see flying cars in 2019
2019: HoW tO CoNVeRt a 3d PRiNteR iNtO A 2D pRinTEr....
Camel case/caser. :○
artistically it's pretty fun
with the price of ink carts , i'm surprised more people aren't doing this.
A 3D printer is literally a base non-humanoid robot, kinda like those KUKA arms, it's amazing how much possibilies you can do with it given the correct tools on its "hand"
i think i've seen an ad for a multipurpose attachment somewhere, and one of them was a cookie glaze extuder, cool af
Very interesting. It is always good to learn about other tools that might come in handy one day.
My gcode are offset far away from origin point, also sometimes they are rotated, any clue what may cause that?
This no longer seems to work, I've downloaded all the files as in the video, one file has been removed from the downloads (Paletts/KM-Laser.gpl) and rest of the downloads are not the same as in the video. Thanks
Im haveing the same problem, did you find a way to fix it?
Pretty good Inkscape tutorial
You could possibly put a marker insteadof pen and mark traces on PCB
excellent advice and clear explanation. How could anyone thumbs down you? So helpful and exactly what I was looking for. thanks
One of the genuinely nicest people on the internet.
Great stuff Michael. Will definitely give this a try. Cheers, JAYTEE
If you modify line 3120 in laser.py to match your offset you don't have to input it everytime. My offsets were x:15 y:35 so my new line was points = [[15.,35.,0,],[115.,35.,0,],[0.,100.,0.]] and it showed it correctly on pronterface. You must put the image within the new drawn origin.
Thanks, great tip.
After adding the new text to the header in laser.py, my line numbers have all changed. Can you tell me what you changed here? Just so I can make sure I am changing the right line...
How can you put out videos so frequently? And each video is based on some long, time consuming project.
Sleep. I give up much of it.
I would encourage you to check out the Polargraph. I made one 5 or 6 years back and they produce very nice images
you could also mount one of those small laser modules to it. You wouldnt even need to change the g code since just moving the head up means the laser isnt focused
Cool but there is a loot of error on corners. As i understand CNC machines dont have jerk like 3d printers and because pen is not pressure related like extruding plastic maybe You can set Jerk value to 0. This will stop moving pen on each junction of Gcode move but in theory it will improve acuuracy when You moving this fast.
would you make a new video with the 1.0 update?
It would be a great help
try everything as far as my knowledge goes.
I downloaded version 1.0 and had problems in the designated directory area in JTP Lacer with the previous version 0.92.5 I have the same issue. Directory does not exist! Please specify existing directory at option tab!
“Hello world”
“Hollow world”
Great video as usual Michael! Going to give this a try asap.
Have you tested these plug-ins with Inkscape 1.0 ? I'm having trouble with the procedure at about 8:00: in the video. I bring up the Laser parameters, change the Laser On/ Laser Off codes and set the speeds and click apply and it throws an error . Invalid syntax laser.py line 51. I can see reinstalling with the 0.92 version, but thought I'd ask There is an open issue on github for the KNR Laser package about updating for compatibility with Inkscape 1.0. Haven't gotten as far as the JMR plug-in.
Anyway.. love your video, but it goes SO quick. I'm a noobe to Inkscape so have trouble with all the extra little clicks and changes (like bringing up the Fill/Shadow control panel. It's all wonderful and I just go back and replay one bit at a time. So THANK YOU. for this video. Really good stuff. Have you done one on using a drag knife for using the printer as a cutter?
Could see using this same program, but there is a lot of fine detail about cutting sharp corners and curves. that isn't as straight forward as plotter work.
That would be REALLY useful and so far I haven't seen one out there. I have a Anet 8 Plus coming this weekend and the first job is printing brackets for a pen and a Roland drag knife. It's a good platform at 300x300 with a glass bed for doing vinyl cutting. That's the 2nd project after the brackets :)
I'll see about re-installing 0.92 and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks Mike, and stay safe..
Loaded 0.92.5 (4/2020) and it worked as you describe.
Thanks for the video. I usually use LaserWeb for my laser proyects, but i will try this changing the commands as you to try drawing with a pen or engraving with a dremel. !
HIi Michael, I found my stock Ender-3 does not print the arcs at all. I found that early at the G-Code (using Cura) the arcs are not drawn.
Can you give some advise here?
Very cool Michael, it's on my 'when time allows' list.
I hear that Spike
Hii..i follow your instruction but why my print cant draw curved line ? Is there need some modify with firmware
While I'm figuring my own way, instead of pen, I put a vinyl cutting drag knife, the cutting depth is rather interesting and sensitive matter. I might missed some things in this video that I can transfer about setting the z height, so, are there ways to set that up in inkscape? I tried with cura and it works with many hassles, but the largest problem is that the svg reader or image converter didn't work really well to generate single wall toolpath in cura
This is awesome! Using the Hero Me on my Ender 3 without a BL Touch means I can make a mount for a pen there!
Need help wen I start the print/drawing go from home to centre bed to start it draws a line strat across
Hey I was wondering if part 2 is coming for RC tank. It would be like getting a present :)
Or maby I missed it somehow :/
I hit a snag actuating the silly string nozzle. Can be overcome but just needs some quality time.
Oh ok no worries
Good luck!
i m not able to see those extensions even after copying and pasting those files to extensions folder. Why its not showing in the extensions tab? I relaunched the app after pasting but still its not showing on version 1.0
Did any one of you encounter a problem with circles and arc? what did you do to correct them
Great stuff! Would be cool to see conversion into engraving machine using dremel of proxxon rotary tool, especially controlling the depth of cut. for example to engrave back lit simpit panels, etc. Thank you Michael! Cheers! Phil.
What about using the 3D printer to cut vinyl?
im getting this
"laser.py:955: DeprecationWarning: simpletransform.parseTransform -> Transform(str).matrix
t = simpletransform.parseTransform(t)
laser.py:965: DeprecationWarning: simpletransform.applyTransformToPath -> Path(path).transform(mat)
simpletransform.applyTransformToPath(trans, csp)"
Have u got rid of this?
Woo-hoo! :D Thx.
2 B completely forthright, I'm commenting before actually trying. :/) But, your/this all seems correct. :)
wooowww thank you for this video, i leared so much things
I would send you best regards and thank you in advance cause i was looking for something like this so i didnt have to change my firmware MARLIN or had to rewire my motors to a cnc shield, i will just change de inkscape stuff with my ramps 1.4 and disconect the hotend, and convert my 3d printer into 2 plotter brilliant thanks again!!!.
Does that hatch fill take hours on a detailed photo? or has mine crashed?
How do you configure the z lift?
Thanks!
hi.i changed my 3d printer to 2d plotter but when i remove extruder and fan my printer give an error for tempreture and stoped.Can you guide me? my printer is cr10s pro.
Impressive job Remco/Michael
Thanks for sharing :-)
Hi, I am new for 3d printer setting,, i have just pen holder attached on Z. how to set Z for pen holder not having sencer with it. , it was setup for nozzel and sencer
hello im trying to make the Jtech code work but i keep getting a directory problem im a mac user and i am unable to make it work
surprised someone doesn't 3d print a pen holder for the 3d printer that can take the place of the nozzle.
then use the "laser" or some other extension to addon a pen "activator"
I tried printing an image, and yet my printer just draws a bunch of random lines and dots.
I have been experimenting with something similar, but there is one thing I have not been able to figure out; how do you respond to the person who says "That's very interesting, but why did you not just click "Print", and send it to your inkjet (or laser) printer?" :o)
"and your printer will be able to create its own masterpieces"
**illegible picture of Mona Lisa**
THIS WORKS GREAT HOWEVER WHEN I USE THE HETCH TOOL IT NEVER GIVES ME A OUTLINE DO I NEED TO RUN IT TWICE TO MAKE THE OUTLINE ASWELL
Hello,
I See on the Prusa site the mk3s. Can you compare it to the mk3 Version?
Thank you very much
Merci beaucoup pour cette présentation.
Is there a way to do this on a prusa mk3?
hey, so when I view the gcode in pronter face it looks great, but when i print it on my 3d printer it draws the hatch infill perfect but the outlines are just some random lines that are completely different than it is supossed to draw, but some lines are correct but thats just a really small percentage. So do you have any idea why this happens?
edit: I found out that it does print the straight lines correctly, doesn't matter at what angle the lines are. but it doesn't print lines that are slightly bend/curved.
edit 2: I found out that my anet a6 doesn't know what 'G2' and 'G3' means so I searched for those codes in the laser.py file and edited them to 'G1' and now its working!!
Great, was wondering if it was possible, I shall be trying to adapt to cut vinyl
What about the arcs if your printer does not support arcs it will only draw straight lines...
Where'd you get the shirt?
ok. You never answer.But if you answer one day I have a question.I am using inkscape now, but the pen does not move on the z-axis and draws extra lines. Please guide
My generated g code does not open in S3D, the program stops and closes.
same here :(
When I try and save the final gcode of an image it locks up...text is fine any ideas?
I would try using a pen with easily replaceable ink and just glue it to the mount and screw the mount to the printer somehow. I might give this a try. Good work, thanks for the idea.
Jason it needs to be able to flex
WinlockPro yeah I was just thinking about that. But just flex up and down right?
Yo lo instalé pero no me sale la opción KM LASER en extensiónes
Could you do a video review/showcase of the klipper firmware
one biggest issue with inscape is it always doesn't fit the build area as like in 3d printing. Its very easy in 3d printing to set the model just inside the build volume. but in drawing case we don't seem to have one good software to do this.
Why don't you set your document size in Inkscape to the bedsize of your printer? If there is some strange conversion happening between the software, it should be pretty easy to figure that scaling error out by placing some objects on Inkscape, load the gcode in your 3D printer software and see where the objects end up. Then you can readjust your documentsize to a value that fits your bed. Just keep in mind that the nozzle-path your 3D printer software draws is offset from where your pen will be drawing on the paper in the real world.
And is not easier to use a 3D file of 0.2mm in thickness then in cura set temp. to 0 and not filling the printer with filament, bed temp to 0 and just set the pen at zero when you home the printer and go!, It will print one layer and that's what we want, Isn't?
@Teaching Tech Can the same principal be used to turn a 3D-Printer into a cutter?
Don't see why not. You would need a robust surface underneath to protect your normal bed.
The "robust surface" can be a craft cutting mat or one of those super thin cutting boards (about 1 mm thick). There are also craft mats (made for cutting machines) that you can get at craft stores that have a sicky surface for holding down the paper/vinyl/fabric that you are cutting.
It should but look for a ball cutter where the blade follows the direction of the path, so you have a nice cut
Will this work with GRBL or just Marlin?
HI! i sucsessfuly can apply every thing from your video. but i had one unimportant but annoying problem. when i make a hatch fill with 45° the printer it like 2-3 times and some other lines are drowned multiple times. do you or anyone else know what could cause these problems?
Hi, please update this video with any improvement from 4 years ago, Thanks.
After going back and forth, there's the caveat on doing this as mentioned in the remco's thingiverse; basically you can't do this with a stock Ender 3 because of the firmware not supporting G2 and G3 commands, aw..
Update to marlin!
copying and pasting the header and footer code you provide causes all code to be on one line and that sucks.
Any chance you could update this for Inkscape 1.0? I tried to follow but neither of the extensions appear in Inkscape :(
done?
Video how to enable G2 g3?
If someone is still checking these comments... On Mac running 10.15.3. Inkscape requires version 1.0 and the JTech plugin does not work. If I leave the orientation notation default, Gcode is produced, however, if I edit the orientation notation to include my specific X, Y offset numbers - NO Gcode is produced. If anyone has some troubleshooting ideas, love to hear them. Thanks!
Make sure to select the object you want to plot before hitting apply. ie use the 'mouse pointer tool up the top left and then click on the image you imported so that it has the resize arrows showing.
We’ve gone full circle boys
How about a mount for a rotary tattoo pen from amazon? I'm sure you could find someone who want Chuck Norris on their arm. Seriously who wouldn't want that? :)
I wouldn't want a creationist on my arm :)
Hay you should make the Ender 3 MOD witch makes the Ender 3 a CNC machine! Good video gl
you could propably only cnc foam with a dremel since neither the frame nor the stepper motors should be strong enough for much else, extrudings does hardly cause any force compared to routing,
I dnt have the pallette folder in the km laser master folder.any ideas???
I wasn't sure either, but it's there if you make sure to download the older versions that you see him use in the video for all three downloads
Nice video bro. But tech2c did it well also way back 2 years ago.
So I've exported my G-code after altering the laser.py file, but Cura will not read it because "the g-code representation may not be accurate." Can someone help a fellow out?
Solved: Cura does not accept G-Codes if the header and/or footer has been tampered with. You either have to use another slicer program or run it on the printer and see how it turns out.
"and you printer will be able to create its own masterpieces" shows blanc piece of paper
You probably never made a single under or overexposed photo or video clip, because you don't know what those even mean. Your comment is useless and has nothing to do with the video, pls leave toxicity out of here. Cheers!
@@beedee95 Dude calm down I know what that is and it was just a joke it's a cool video I just thought it was funny
my gcode file is have only 5 lines of code, when trying the hello world
You might have forgot to press "object to path" before converting to Gcode.
Very useful Video! I designed my own pen holder to fit with the bltouch upgrade and you helped me a lot finding the right software!
However, I got a problem with G2/G3 arcs: the printer (Ender 3 Pro) fully supports them, but Inkscape doesn't output the right G-code, I've already checked by visualizing it in Cura.
Did anyone have a similar problem?
You ever figure this out?
@@KernsJW oh yes: basically the ender 3 motherboard does not have enough memory to manage both the bltouch probe and the arc support.
The new bltouch firmware has G2 and G3 disabled, so I guess the only option would be to change motherboard..
@@mauco4037 Did you try to just edit the Gcode in a text editor and replace all the G2 and G3 texts with G1? Might be a bit off from the original, but if the arcs are short enough maybe it still looks okay?
@@ProtonOne11 there were too many g2/g3s to replace and I couldn't find a converter... But I still figured it out!
It didn't work because I installed a bltouch on a stock ender 3 and there was no space left for g2 support in the firmware.
As the bltouch itself was not working that well with the stock board, I decided to buy a skr mini E3 board and all of my problems vanished. Bltouch working flawlessly, printer supports arcs, steppers are silent...
So yeah, basically the solution is to change Mainboard :P
I m same issue. Which firmware should I install?
you said it was free i needed to buy fillement and a pen. anyway thanks i didnt know how to sucsefully do it
But for what?!? Isn't it easier to print on classical 2d printer? :D 3d printer is meant to print in 3 dimensions? i hope you will not make update to this video showing how to print with ink and multiple colours 😀
What about if you don't have a 2d printer?
This seems like heaps of work for something I could knock up with ASCII characters and a dot matrix printer. Shout out if you ever did that and if you ever printed one in line-feed paper attached with perforations, you're as old as I am.
@@Noah_7s Then you probably misuse your discretionary income.
@@TechGorilla1987 and another shout out if you still have a dot matrix sitting around. I've even got 2 big boxes of tractor feed paper.
cant i just use my normal printer?.......:)
I bought this printer ruclips.net/user/postUgkxciSwynMJ7PnUvvx11rewiu-yFBkZTl53 to replace an aging HP printer. It is just used for casual home printing so I don't need anything more. Installation went easily though the HP Smart Printing doesn't work well with our laptops - having to select the actual device. Will have to see how the HP Instant Ink program works out. Plus haven't been able to set up printing from smartphone yet - either direct or WiFi
So this would be similar to adding a laser engraver?
Just wondered as I have already bought one from Creality.