Possible Solution - I can't find the video of the engine noise, but if it was making a loud clattering sound at idle then there is a chance it was caused by slack in the intake butterfly shafts. This happened on my 360 and I know shops that have changed engines/heads etc on customers trying to fix this problem which was common on some years of 360. The sound is a loud metallic clattering which most diagnose as a lifter clatter or even sounds like top end knock. It's actually the two shafts slapping back and forward in the intake deck and the sound is amplified by the metal chamber. To diagnose and eliminate this as a potential fault you can test with the engine running and noise audible. Put on some welders gloves and reach under the intake manifold, in the middle on both sides there is a lever assembly for the throttle which opens the butterfly rails when the throttle cable moves. If you put upward pressure on the rotating assembly it moves the shaft upwards against the rotating butterfly shaft and temporarily stops the clattering noise. If the noise dulls or goes away you have found the problem. To fix just remove the whole intake assembly and when on the bench move each shaft forwards and backwards to measure the play. Make some shims to add to the end of each shaft (leave some endfloat so the shafts are not tight). Reassemble and pat yourself on the back for just saving a boatload of time and money. Good luck.
It's hard to say what went wrong by this video. These Ferrari V8's are known to be really strong engines. People always talk about Ferrari and a lack of reliability, but their V8's all the way back from the 308 has always been very good. One thing I know from having had a few Ferrari V8's over time is this. They are sensitive to what oil is used. Not so much in relation to viscosity etc. but rather how the oil acts. Oils like the recommended Penxoil or Shell, as well as Mobil 1 are in fact not very good. Why? They foam, and this is particularly true for the 360. There's a very real chance that the engine ran and then lost oil pressure due to foaming. Use the factory recommended oil and go drive the thing for 30 minutes, then pull the dipstick. I promise you, it is covered in foam. Now lots of 360's survive on that oil, and as long as the oil level is high, you are okay, not good, but okay. However, if that level has not been cared for and has been low, then you run the risk and that I have seen happen to others. Now this is not unique to the 360, it also happens with the F12, the 458, the F430, Cali, FF and Lusso. The 360 is however the worst offender for some unknown reason. Is there a way to solve this? Yes, and luckily it is easy. Do what many people who run the 360 Challenge cars do and just use an oil that does not foam. I use Royal Purple in all my cars for this reason. Some also have good luck with Redline and Driven. But for me, Royal Purple XPR is what I use. Every time we have torn the engine down in my Kessel Racing F430 Evo GT3 racer, everything has been prestine and oil pressure is always on point. This got a bit long, but in short, I think it was an oiling issue due to foam.
If I'm not mistaken the factory is using Pakelo as they're brand of engine oil now. Also would love to see some of the work you do! I love getting more knowledge on Ferrari!
@@daniel-san464 Not much Amsoil experience. I'm in Europe, and Amsoil is not big here. I know from some of my fellow Ferrari owners in the US that it's a bit hit and miss with Amsoil when it comes to the foaming issues. A lot of us have simply found that the Royal Purple sutff works, so that's where we go. Obviously there are many who religiously stick with what Ferrari wants, but I tend to not do that. All my cars also run either Castrol SRF or Motul RBF700 brake fluid depending on what car it is. Interestingly, as rigid as Ferrari can be with things, they actually allow you to run alternative fluids if you prefer, just as long as they meet the basic specifications. So when I have an oil change done or brake fluids done at my dealer, I just put the jugs of fluid in the boot and let them use that. I say this because it goes to show that Ferrari is confident that their engines can run with alternative oils etc. More so if that would you feel more at ease trying something different.
@@daniel-san464 The oil recommendations is a bit all over the place. If I look at my owners manual for my new cars, they recommend Shell/Penzoil. When I visited the AF Corse team this summer, they ran something else, can't remember what but not Pakelo. In my experience, what Ferrari uses and recommends tend to be mostly based on who will be their sponsor lol. They will recommend Mobil 1 if they pay the bills😀 I rarely do videos when I have work done. I do some stuff myself on occasion, but mostly I have my local race shop do things, or in case of my GT3 race car, a race shop in the UK is where that car lives off season. My days of doing everything in my own garage, now goes about a decade back. More cars, work, life, newer cars etc. As much as I would love to be more hands on, it's hard to find time. I do have a small video series the UK shop shot from when the GT3 car was completely torn down to its last nut and bolt for a complete refurb if you want to see that. That however, is mostly about the chassis, car itself and so on, rather than the engine and drivetrain. The major engine build for that car we chose to let Kessel Racing do, since the seasonal refurbs are now done locally. I will keep you in mind the next time I'm doing something interesting with engines for sure. I'm more than happy to share stuff.
WOW not that is interesting at this time wish to see more after years of time in the automotive industry one thing i have learned is that i know enough to know that there are many things i just do not know
We got to see inside the heart of a Ferrari, so cool to see a master at work. The problem? Cheap fuel, the bearings had a little bit of wear, but nothing to make the engine tick from its guts. I think you will find more answers looking at the lifters, could be a lazy spring or not adjusted properly. Hope you can get that solvent off the block.
It ain't the crankshaft or rods.....maybe piston slap at cold start up?....Too many Italian rev tune-ups?.....Run feeler gauges in the bores by the piston skirts.
Well done San. The sign shown are sign of sudden hefty revving when cold engine or low quality luboil. Poor or low maintenance by a pro mechanic are vital to these engines. All the best Mr.San.
I watched jack builds, they got pistons, bearings, basically everything ready then assembled except for the heads then turned over by hand and heard the nock in the wrist pin of one of the pistons. It was a little more work, and cost plenty for new pistons. It seemed like an effective way to go about figuring out what they had. Good luck and I’ll be rooting for your success with your new engine 👍
New Zealander here, there was a cheap Fiero auto locally so I was checking out various engine conversions from Buick V6, Northstar and LS using a Getrag or GM F40 6 speed manual transaxle, a 360 engine would be far better. As for a Fiero-Ferrari installation another commenter mentioned, most look too heinous, I think I've seen a British 355 MR2 kit thats an exact copy. However I'd prefer it if you installed it in a Honda S2000, Payback for StanceWorks Honda K powered 308 abortion.
I only see pristine/new looking bearings with hammer marks. No worries as I would also replace rod and main bearings if engine stripped this far down. Very clean engine!
Bearings don't look that bad. No obvious signs of pounding. Torque everything back down and measure, looking for taper, out of round. Then measure the crank for the same as well as clearance. This thing is spotless inside compared to the used up sh*t I used to see back in the day.
I have a suspicion that the solvent used may not be compatible for your block. (Only a suspicion). As for the ticking noise, that might be somewhere in the valve train. I would really take the time to disassemble it and look very closely at every part in there. Who knows, a clue could be found in there. Hard to know without actually listening to it, which is impossible at this stage. Your bottom end looks like a normal wear from really ‘flooring’ it on cold engine. But not enough for the noise. Great video, Daniel-San. Good luck and please share your findings. Cheers!
Nice video! Am certainly interested in seeing further analysis of what might be the root cause for the knock issue. The solvent residue from the parts cleaner is normal and typically you should wash the parts off with hot water when they come out of the washer. Once rinsed off, the parts should be thoroughly dried - I just use compressed air. Hope that helps. Cheers
I'm not a gearhead so I have noooooooooooooo idea what could be the issue. But have been a long time subscriber and one of your early subs and will be here until the wheels (no pun intended) falls off, hahaha!!!! These are super cool videos cuz we get to see a deep dives into what you do and what your skillsets are and not to mention we get to see the cool toys that we hardly get to see in CarWizard's videos. :-) Keep them coming my good man!!!!!
@Daniel-San youtuber (Robbie Layton) has a the sensational Le Mans inspired Ultima kit car (super car) he wants to remove the LS motor and sell off the already built Ultima. The Ultima is the only car worthy of that Ferrari engine in my opinion. Please install that motor in the Ultima and drive it like you stole-it. 😊
Nice update Daniel-San. Havent the foggiest re knocking, i dont know enough to say. Just like watching and seeing how its done. Shame ur engine got slimed 🙄
Minor things that sound serious like a bad engine, loose spark plug, serpentine belt with a missing segment, new serpentine belt with a chunk of the old one lodged in the crank pulley.
what are you going to do with the engine? get a fiero kit car kit and use that real ferrari engine in it! that will mess people up as most might be able to tell, but the sound will bend their minds all up 😁😁😎😎
I don’t want to say that the bearings and internals didn’t look warn but you didn’t say the mileage we’ll never know the warmup history or the oil change frequency, but I can’t wait to see the heads could be lifter sounds or sloppy cams but who know the owner might have panicked and had the Motor replaced just because the shop said it needed it and that was all he needed to hear if he has no mechanical knowledge seems somewhat common with exotic cars
With the bearing wear, is it worse in the middle or at the edges ? I think the oil holes in the crankshaft are in the middle so lubrication should be better there.... I wonder if some of the journal oil feeds are blocked or restricted ? As you say there's definitely wear everywear but nothing that seems bad enough for a noticable knock.
I'm thinking a cold seize. That's the most common thing. Most people don't warm up their engines before they leave and if you high rev any engine very cold it's over eventually. "Well, Thomas Magnum doesn't warm up his Ferrari." Those people should have EV's, let them ruin an electric motor. My own wife did that. No matter what I told her, She ruined a Crown Victoria 302 anyway. Luckily she did it right after the divorce and she was stuck with the car. It was knocking when it left. I would think a high revving Ferrari engine would be especially sensitive to cold starts. Hard to believe they would swap an engine over a valve adjustment. Besides, valves tap or tick, bearings knock.
to look at the the pistons at a first look and the one you moved with the evidence of cold revving the pistons are damaged pin to piston and the sides they are forged pistons and as a rule pistons of the type do not tolerate Cold revving some did not know what they were doing with a hi strung motor and the noise is piston SLAP As i started in the automotive industry I had this problem one should learn not to make this mistake do not ask how i found this out it can be pricey and now they wreaked it Glad it is nor me looking for the next video to see what you find it could be some thing other then that did not see but one piston and with the short look that this is my thoughts
Probably going to be a lifter. A friend of mine who i helped rebuild a 427 cj back in 1982 had a crankshaft that was turned about 1/1000th of an inch off and it caused a bearing to wear out and start knocking. We had to tear it back down and put in a new crank which was very hard to find.
No. Not even remotely close. In that case, the engine would lock up in short order and you would instantly get a warning as pressure drops to zero. It's a dry sump engine.
Rod bearings didn't look bad really. Not new but I don't think it was worn enough to knock. Piston slap maybe? Without a close inspection on everything it's hard to tell
Hi new to the channel I have a question I am working on a 1995 456 and I am trying to fix how to remove the camshaft sprockets off the camshafts. And trying to find any torque spec for the front cover and oil pump cover because I need to reseal it for leaking oil. Do you have any website you use for torque spec or for the special tools to reassembly the engine? Any help would be awesome. Thank you for your time
Hello I got same problem at my ferrari 360 . check my youtube. if there are some knocking at the piston there would be some sign on knocling sensor. and I bought a endoscope and I would check inside piston this week. if there are piston problem or noise you can check by unplug ignition coil each cylinder noise get louder ,if valve problem noise would be same . all problem causes by bad engine oil. and bubbles makes bad circulations
@@daniel-san464I have check intake butterfly already and I have found same problem as yours at crank , recently I didnt run fast and I did use only shell 0w40 for 16years, but it happened same as your engine did .Just need to check rod bearings and replace rod bearings I have ferrari 360 for 16years . and I think fake shell engine oil make crank parts weak
Possible Solution - I can't find the video of the engine noise, but if it was making a loud clattering sound at idle then there is a chance it was caused by slack in the intake butterfly shafts. This happened on my 360 and I know shops that have changed engines/heads etc on customers trying to fix this problem which was common on some years of 360. The sound is a loud metallic clattering which most diagnose as a lifter clatter or even sounds like top end knock. It's actually the two shafts slapping back and forward in the intake deck and the sound is amplified by the metal chamber. To diagnose and eliminate this as a potential fault you can test with the engine running and noise audible. Put on some welders gloves and reach under the intake manifold, in the middle on both sides there is a lever assembly for the throttle which opens the butterfly rails when the throttle cable moves. If you put upward pressure on the rotating assembly it moves the shaft upwards against the rotating butterfly shaft and temporarily stops the clattering noise. If the noise dulls or goes away you have found the problem. To fix just remove the whole intake assembly and when on the bench move each shaft forwards and backwards to measure the play. Make some shims to add to the end of each shaft (leave some endfloat so the shafts are not tight). Reassemble and pat yourself on the back for just saving a boatload of time and money. Good luck.
Do you have any sound file or video?
It's hard to say what went wrong by this video. These Ferrari V8's are known to be really strong engines. People always talk about Ferrari and a lack of reliability, but their V8's all the way back from the 308 has always been very good.
One thing I know from having had a few Ferrari V8's over time is this. They are sensitive to what oil is used. Not so much in relation to viscosity etc. but rather how the oil acts. Oils like the recommended Penxoil or Shell, as well as Mobil 1 are in fact not very good. Why? They foam, and this is particularly true for the 360. There's a very real chance that the engine ran and then lost oil pressure due to foaming. Use the factory recommended oil and go drive the thing for 30 minutes, then pull the dipstick. I promise you, it is covered in foam. Now lots of 360's survive on that oil, and as long as the oil level is high, you are okay, not good, but okay. However, if that level has not been cared for and has been low, then you run the risk and that I have seen happen to others. Now this is not unique to the 360, it also happens with the F12, the 458, the F430, Cali, FF and Lusso. The 360 is however the worst offender for some unknown reason. Is there a way to solve this? Yes, and luckily it is easy. Do what many people who run the 360 Challenge cars do and just use an oil that does not foam. I use Royal Purple in all my cars for this reason. Some also have good luck with Redline and Driven. But for me, Royal Purple XPR is what I use. Every time we have torn the engine down in my Kessel Racing F430 Evo GT3 racer, everything has been prestine and oil pressure is always on point.
This got a bit long, but in short, I think it was an oiling issue due to foam.
If I'm not mistaken the factory is using Pakelo as they're brand of engine oil now. Also would love to see some of the work you do! I love getting more knowledge on Ferrari!
Have you had any experience with Amsoil?
@@daniel-san464 Not much Amsoil experience. I'm in Europe, and Amsoil is not big here. I know from some of my fellow Ferrari owners in the US that it's a bit hit and miss with Amsoil when it comes to the foaming issues. A lot of us have simply found that the Royal Purple sutff works, so that's where we go. Obviously there are many who religiously stick with what Ferrari wants, but I tend to not do that. All my cars also run either Castrol SRF or Motul RBF700 brake fluid depending on what car it is. Interestingly, as rigid as Ferrari can be with things, they actually allow you to run alternative fluids if you prefer, just as long as they meet the basic specifications. So when I have an oil change done or brake fluids done at my dealer, I just put the jugs of fluid in the boot and let them use that. I say this because it goes to show that Ferrari is confident that their engines can run with alternative oils etc. More so if that would you feel more at ease trying something different.
@@daniel-san464
The oil recommendations is a bit all over the place. If I look at my owners manual for my new cars, they recommend Shell/Penzoil. When I visited the AF Corse team this summer, they ran something else, can't remember what but not Pakelo. In my experience, what Ferrari uses and recommends tend to be mostly based on who will be their sponsor lol. They will recommend Mobil 1 if they pay the bills😀
I rarely do videos when I have work done. I do some stuff myself on occasion, but mostly I have my local race shop do things, or in case of my GT3 race car, a race shop in the UK is where that car lives off season. My days of doing everything in my own garage, now goes about a decade back. More cars, work, life, newer cars etc.
As much as I would love to be more hands on, it's hard to find time. I do have a small video series the UK shop shot from when the GT3 car was completely torn down to its last nut and bolt for a complete refurb if you want to see that. That however, is mostly about the chassis, car itself and so on, rather than the engine and drivetrain. The major engine build for that car we chose to let Kessel Racing do, since the seasonal refurbs are now done locally.
I will keep you in mind the next time I'm doing something interesting with engines for sure. I'm more than happy to share stuff.
WOW not that is interesting at this time wish to see more after years of time in the automotive industry one thing i have learned is that i know enough to know that there are many things i just do not know
We got to see inside the heart of a Ferrari, so cool to see a master at work. The problem? Cheap fuel, the bearings had a little bit of wear, but nothing to make the engine tick from its guts. I think you will find more answers looking at the lifters, could be a lazy spring or not adjusted properly. Hope you can get that solvent off the block.
We use a similar parts washer in our machine shop. You need a filtered water spray hose to immediately clean parts still in parts washer. Works great.
Thanks!
It ain't the crankshaft or rods.....maybe piston slap at cold start up?....Too many Italian rev tune-ups?.....Run feeler gauges in the bores by the piston skirts.
Well done San. The sign shown are sign of sudden hefty revving when cold engine or low quality luboil. Poor or low maintenance by a pro mechanic are vital to these engines. All the best Mr.San.
some days you WIN! most days you lose or break even ~
Love watching an expert working, video not too long, the more technical details the better!!
No one minds long videos, especially when working on an engine.
I watched jack builds, they got pistons, bearings, basically everything ready then assembled except for the heads then turned over by hand and heard the nock in the wrist pin of one of the pistons. It was a little more work, and cost plenty for new pistons. It seemed like an effective way to go about figuring out what they had. Good luck and I’ll be rooting for your success with your new engine 👍
New Zealander here, there was a cheap Fiero auto locally so I was checking out various engine conversions from Buick V6, Northstar and LS using a Getrag or GM F40 6 speed manual transaxle, a 360 engine would be far better.
As for a Fiero-Ferrari installation another commenter mentioned, most look too heinous, I think I've seen a British 355 MR2 kit thats an exact copy.
However I'd prefer it if you installed it in a Honda S2000, Payback for StanceWorks Honda K powered 308 abortion.
I only see pristine/new looking bearings with hammer marks. No worries as I would also replace rod and main bearings if engine stripped this far down.
Very clean engine!
Nice tear down Daniel-San!
Love the parts washer wizard has there !
Pure guess, but oil starvation somewhere causing premature bearing wear? Or not kept up with oil changes/wrong oil used/driven infrequently etc.
Bearings don't look that bad. No obvious signs of pounding. Torque everything back down and measure, looking for taper, out of round. Then measure the crank for the same as well as clearance. This thing is spotless inside compared to the used up sh*t I used to see back in the day.
I'm thinking that the main cause of the excessive bearing wear was more than likely the loose nut at the wheel when the damage occurred. 🧐
I have a suspicion that the solvent used may not be compatible for your block. (Only a suspicion). As for the ticking noise, that might be somewhere in the valve train. I would really take the time to disassemble it and look very closely at every part in there. Who knows, a clue could be found in there. Hard to know without actually listening to it, which is impossible at this stage. Your bottom end looks like a normal wear from really ‘flooring’ it on cold engine. But not enough for the noise. Great video, Daniel-San. Good luck and please share your findings. Cheers!
Great tear down video! Thanks!
I have no idea what the culprit is, and this will be fun to follow. Good luck with it.
Nice video! Am certainly interested in seeing further analysis of what might be the root cause for the knock issue. The solvent residue from the parts cleaner is normal and typically you should wash the parts off with hot water when they come out of the washer. Once rinsed off, the parts should be thoroughly dried - I just use compressed air. Hope that helps. Cheers
My money is on top end issues. Valves, lifters, cams. Bottom end looks ok. Some wear but nothing severe enough to cause rod knock.
Operator error
excellent keep up the great work
Hey Daniel -San for another great step by step video!!! 👍👍🙂
#DANIEL-SAN GREAT VIDEO THANKS FOR YOUR HARD WORK YOU ARE GETTING BETTER LOVE THE VIDEO
Great episode, clean and quick
I agree with mark Valentine's commentary.🎉
Could have been using inferior fuel.
I'm not a gearhead so I have noooooooooooooo idea what could be the issue. But have been a long time subscriber and one of your early subs and will be here until the wheels (no pun intended) falls off, hahaha!!!!
These are super cool videos cuz we get to see a deep dives into what you do and what your skillsets are and not to mention we get to see the cool toys that we hardly get to see in CarWizard's videos. :-) Keep them coming my good man!!!!!
@Daniel-San youtuber (Robbie Layton) has a the sensational Le Mans inspired Ultima kit car (super car) he wants to remove the LS motor and sell off the already built Ultima. The Ultima is the only car worthy of that Ferrari engine in my opinion.
Please install that motor in the Ultima and drive it like you stole-it. 😊
Looks like a lot of cold starts and revving. Bill
I have cast aluminum kitchen tools and once ran in dishwasher they get a grey color. That’s what happened to block
Nice update Daniel-San. Havent the foggiest re knocking, i dont know enough to say. Just like watching and seeing how its done. Shame ur engine got slimed 🙄
Very interesting video - thanks for sharing it
Great work!! 😊
On some cylinders, the oil was darkened. Knowing nothing, I would look there.
that looks like normal engine wear, there is nothing wrong with the bottom end of the engine. i’m betting the noise was coming from the heads.
Minor things that sound serious like a bad engine, loose spark plug, serpentine belt with a missing segment, new serpentine belt with a chunk of the old one lodged in the crank pulley.
what are you going to do with the engine? get a fiero kit car kit and use that real ferrari engine in it! that will mess people up as most might be able to tell, but the sound will bend their minds all up 😁😁😎😎
Great channel!
I don’t want to say that the bearings and internals didn’t look warn but you didn’t say the mileage we’ll never know the warmup history or the oil change frequency, but I can’t wait to see the heads could be lifter sounds or sloppy cams but who know the owner might have panicked and had the Motor replaced just because the shop said it needed it and that was all he needed to hear if he has no mechanical knowledge seems somewhat common with exotic cars
A year from now you'll be driving your Ferrari 😊
Exhaust leak.
betcha the knock was a belt issue that was misheard...got me man. Looks pretty good so far...
With the bearing wear, is it worse in the middle or at the edges ? I think the oil holes in the crankshaft are in the middle so lubrication should be better there....
I wonder if some of the journal oil feeds are blocked or restricted ? As you say there's definitely wear everywear but nothing that seems bad enough for a noticable knock.
I'm thinking a cold seize. That's the most common thing. Most people don't warm up their engines before they leave and if you high rev any engine very cold it's over eventually. "Well, Thomas Magnum doesn't warm up his Ferrari." Those people should have EV's, let them ruin an electric motor. My own wife did that. No matter what I told her, She ruined a Crown Victoria 302 anyway. Luckily she did it right after the divorce and she was stuck with the car. It was knocking when it left. I would think a high revving Ferrari engine would be especially sensitive to cold starts. Hard to believe they would swap an engine over a valve adjustment. Besides, valves tap or tick, bearings knock.
360 has hydraulic valve tappets, no adjusting to do.
to look at the the pistons at a first look and the one you moved
with the evidence of cold revving the pistons are damaged pin to piston and the sides
they are forged pistons and as a rule pistons of the type do not tolerate Cold revving
some did not know what they were doing with a hi strung motor and the noise is piston
SLAP As i started in the automotive industry I had this problem one should learn not
to make this mistake do not ask how i found this out it can be pricey
and now they wreaked it Glad it is nor me looking for the next video to see what you
find it could be some thing other then that did not see but one piston and with the short
look that this is my thoughts
Thanks for that 👍
Probably going to be a lifter. A friend of mine who i helped rebuild a 427 cj back in 1982 had a crankshaft that was turned about 1/1000th of an inch off and it caused a bearing to wear out and start knocking. We had to tear it back down and put in a new crank which was very hard to find.
Do you have a video of it running & knocking? Maybe that would be of assistance to someone who specializes in Ferrari to diagnose it.
Cold Start - Low Oil push.. -
Oil starvation due to pump failure.
No. Not even remotely close. In that case, the engine would lock up in short order and you would instantly get a warning as pressure drops to zero. It's a dry sump engine.
Rod bearings didn't look bad really. Not new but I don't think it was worn enough to knock. Piston slap maybe? Without a close inspection on everything it's hard to tell
Incorrect bearings maybe (to soft) incorrect tolerances?
This has the factory bearings in it, so no, not too soft.
Hi new to the channel I have a question I am working on a 1995 456 and I am trying to fix how to remove the camshaft sprockets off the camshafts. And trying to find any torque spec for the front cover and oil pump cover because I need to reseal it for leaking oil. Do you have any website you use for torque spec or for the special tools to reassembly the engine? Any help would be awesome. Thank you for your time
Those rod bearings don't look that bad
Bearings
My guess….it was over revved.
Hi sir are you hiring as a mechnic because i will interested to apply in your company sir
❤
Oh $hit.....main caps look BAD
Did this belong to The Stradman?
No, it was brought to us by a customer that gave it to me.
@@daniel-san464It was a joke because Stradman revs the crap out of his engines.
Hello I got same problem at my ferrari 360 . check my youtube. if there are some knocking at the piston there would be some sign on knocling sensor. and I bought a endoscope and I would check inside piston this week. if there are piston problem or noise you can check by unplug ignition coil each cylinder noise get louder ,if valve problem noise would be same . all problem causes by bad engine oil. and bubbles makes bad circulations
Check the comment I pinned at the top, it might be useful to you.
@@daniel-san464I have check intake butterfly already and I have found same problem as yours at crank , recently I didnt run fast and I did use only shell 0w40 for 16years,
but it happened same as your engine did .Just need to check rod bearings and replace rod bearings
I have ferrari 360 for 16years . and I think fake shell engine oil make crank parts weak