also look up JBM industries. They have a very specific process for ordering but they deliver good diaphragms or the HItachi Carbs. Gotta take time to measure the diameter of the groove at the top of the carb for the diaphragms to sit in.
Wow!!! You really like doing things the hard way. I sure hope you are working on your own bike. I would NEVER pay 4hrs to remove the carb and who knows how long to reassemble it. I own an 86' vt700c and it takes maybe 10min to pull the carb. Remove ALL cables/lines going to the carb first (choke cables, fuel, vacuum, throttle cables). And then you can start freeing the carb. As for the boots, you undue all the boot clamps top and bottom. Then you use a hot air gun to warm the upper boots (to just almost to hot to hold). You should be able to squeeze it with your fingers. Then use a large pair of channel locks to squeeze the middle of the upper boots and pull out. Some soft twisting might be needed (don't force it). Once the uppers are out. Lift the carb up and remove the lowers. Then slide the carb sideways and out to remove. Just that simple. You do the reverse to install. A small L shaped pick can get the last bit on the upper boots but DO NOT POKE A HOLE IN THE BOOT. It should pretty much go on with just wiggling it. The pick is a last resort. You will need to warm the upper boots again to get them on. They have to almost taco to get started. Start them from the front and work them to the back. I would never take all that crap off to work on the carbs. That is the scam that some high dollar shops do to charge more shop time at over $100 an hour. I have worked on my carbs several times and always down it the way I described.
If it works for you then do it. What you seem to have missed is the boots are damaged and can’t be manipulated that way or more damage will happen. If you are able to find these upper boots to replace them I would gladly try your method. Used ones are hard to find and new ones are unavailable. And yes this is my personal bike I’ve been working on since it was new. The motor has been off the frame many times. First time after running over a pedestrian and totaling the bike. Thanks for your comment and info on your experience with the VT700c shadow. Many more miles and smiles
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I have even used that method on split boots, too. You crack it worse because it is cold. The heat takes that risk away. The heat excites the rubber molecules and allows them to move more without losing cohesion. I have probably 5 extra upper boots and so I wasn't afraid to experiment to find the best way. Including when the boot is damaged. I have both professional and personal experience working on bikes and quads.
@@Tinkerbell227 still haven’t solved my problem but thanks for your advice. What works for one project doesn’t necessarily work on another. I’m not telling anyone how to do anything. Or trying to prove how much experience I have. Provide positive feedback or info or move along. If you have so many extra parts than I guess you have room to make mistakes. Donations are welcome
I found that those diaphragms can be held in place with 2 rubber washers of adequate diameter just made the top of the pair slightly larger than the top flange on the slide. the one on bottom should be the same and you can slide each n a stack all the way up to the top of the slide.
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
also look up JBM industries. They have a very specific process for ordering but they deliver good diaphragms or the HItachi Carbs. Gotta take time to measure the diameter of the groove at the top of the carb for the diaphragms to sit in.
Wow!!! You really like doing things the hard way. I sure hope you are working on your own bike. I would NEVER pay 4hrs to remove the carb and who knows how long to reassemble it.
I own an 86' vt700c and it takes maybe 10min to pull the carb. Remove ALL cables/lines going to the carb first (choke cables, fuel, vacuum, throttle cables). And then you can start freeing the carb. As for the boots, you undue all the boot clamps top and bottom. Then you use a hot air gun to warm the upper boots (to just almost to hot to hold). You should be able to squeeze it with your fingers. Then use a large pair of channel locks to squeeze the middle of the upper boots and pull out. Some soft twisting might be needed (don't force it). Once the uppers are out. Lift the carb up and remove the lowers. Then slide the carb sideways and out to remove.
Just that simple. You do the reverse to install. A small L shaped pick can get the last bit on the upper boots but DO NOT POKE A HOLE IN THE BOOT. It should pretty much go on with just wiggling it. The pick is a last resort. You will need to warm the upper boots again to get them on. They have to almost taco to get started. Start them from the front and work them to the back.
I would never take all that crap off to work on the carbs. That is the scam that some high dollar shops do to charge more shop time at over $100 an hour. I have worked on my carbs several times and always down it the way I described.
If it works for you then do it. What you seem to have missed is the boots are damaged and can’t be manipulated that way or more damage will happen. If you are able to find these upper boots to replace them I would gladly try your method. Used ones are hard to find and new ones are unavailable. And yes this is my personal bike I’ve been working on since it was new. The motor has been off the frame many times. First time after running over a pedestrian and totaling the bike. Thanks for your comment and info on your experience with the VT700c shadow. Many more miles and smiles
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I have even used that method on split boots, too. You crack it worse because it is cold. The heat takes that risk away. The heat excites the rubber molecules and allows them to move more without losing cohesion. I have probably 5 extra upper boots and so I wasn't afraid to experiment to find the best way. Including when the boot is damaged. I have both professional and personal experience working on bikes and quads.
@@Tinkerbell227 still haven’t solved my problem but thanks for your advice. What works for one project doesn’t necessarily work on another. I’m not telling anyone how to do anything. Or trying to prove how much experience I have. Provide positive feedback or info or move along. If you have so many extra parts than I guess you have room to make mistakes. Donations are welcome
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 My business is to small for donations. $50 a boot plus shipping. Shelton's Odd Jobs & Oddities LLC.
I found that those diaphragms can be held in place with 2 rubber washers of adequate diameter just made the top of the pair slightly larger than the top flange on the slide. the one on bottom should be the same and you can slide each n a stack all the way up to the top of the slide.
I got a pair donated by a viewer. Very good to know for future reference
Hey just got me one with the same problem can u help
Hi mate! you can get some replicas fuel proof in Argentina, the maker is called SCAR.
Are you talking about the top carburetor tubes? If so do you have a link? Having a hard time finding it. Many Thanks