Best Soldering 18650 Lithium Cell Tutorial - NO Welding, Just Solder!
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Yes you can solder 18650 cells to make your own battery pack. There's no need to buy an expensive welder. Here I show you how I made a 6 cell pack in series.
You'll need the following:
Soldering iron capable of 800-850° amzn.to/3aP4HJd or amzn.to/37SFZFI
Wide soldering tip 5mm amzn.to/2WSgbDC
60/40 rosin core solder amzn.to/38LekFQ
Flux Pen amzn.to/2X4NFyJ
Sanding Stick amzn.to/2M6vBBM
Tabbing, minimum 5mm amzn.to/3aWQrOi
Scissors amzn.to/3hsyDw2
Popsicle stick amzn.to/34O1O7G
Combination Square amzn.to/3rzuV8n
Medium viscosity super glue amzn.to/38F5uJX
Super glue accelerator amzn.to/2WT1yzG
Dang. It is possible to make a superb how-to video that doesn't run 2 hours. Take a bow.
No kidding, I was just thinking the same thing. No messing around, straight forward, to the point.
Yes. Thanks
And no stupid non stop talk or weird music!
Yes, and no intro crap. Straight to the point. Great job. Congrats and thanks, enopto.
@@ih1955 .
You win! Shortest, sharpest, clearest, most accurate vid on this topic. Most appreciated.
Get the job done. No BS.
Google pays more for longer videos...
also most dangerous putting series cells against each other thats asking for problems
Very nice video - no annoying dub step music, no 14 min story about how his neighbor taught him to solder in a musty old garage in his youth, no shaky camera panning randomly all over the room. Should be used as course material for other RUclipsrs!
I agree completely, no need for distractions
AGREED: Shortest, sharpest, clearest, most accurate vid on this topic. Most appreciated.
Much appreciated!
Best "HOW-TO" I've seen in a long time... BRAVO!
Many thanks!
Sir, you are definitely a " **NO BS** artist", straight to the point, precise and concise....
Thank you sir. Nobody has time for BS when battery packs need soldering.
AND no lame BS music at the beginning too---a huge plus from me! :)
@@enopto What material did you use for your connecting strips, if I may ask? Any chance you could link me to a source?
Hello, my name is Chris Cloutier, the owner of enopto. You can visit my website at enopto.com to find out what I do for a living. My goal in life is to deliver quality instructional content efficiently and effectively. No hiding, no BS. I am scared of waking up without a purpose however....I guess that makes me a bit of a coward.
There are a ton of vids on youtube about soldering cells. How nice to see someone get right. Pay attention this guy knows how to make a solid solder joint which will stand up in a high shock/vibration application and high current handling capability.
Great stuff, gave me the courage to salvage a wonderful B&D 20 Volt vacuum with modern cells with about 100X more run time. Pack works great, no short circuits.
Glad to hear!
When soldering the whole thing together you need to put something thin and heat resistant under tabs to prevent possibility of insulation melting and shortening positive contact with the body of the battery (negative)
Is kapton tape usable for this?
@@bleak0218kapton and even paper tape works fine. You just need to prevent melting the plastic film covering the battery. When you heat, it might just get a hole and you can spark a short easily.
maximum info and compact! Thank you! I almost bought a spot welder until I saw this. I understand there is inherent risk in everything we do every day of our lives. The MAIN thing to keep in mid is enopto did not say, hint, or elude to this is the end all be all of the only way to join batteries together in series or parallel, but rather that "it is possible to solder 18650 batteries and possibly any other Li-Ion battery and he executed the task flawlessly! Even made it look easy. Take it for what it is. As we all saw there was no fire, no explosion, or death and destruction. I endorse this video and others like it that show alternatives to making something work. Keep up the great work and condensed instruction! I appreciate it.
Thank you Adrian for taking the time to write such a great comment. You nailed it right on the head, soldering 18650 cells is no mystery that requires an over complex solution. With the right tools and information, this can be accomplished correctly and safely. Cheers!
@@enopto I know talent and skill when I see it, and you have it! I really am glad I stumbled across your video, thank you again and keep posting and keep up the good work and skillful work.
Good job. I just tried to watch a 14 min.+ video on this subject and you got it done in less than 3.
Thank you. It drives me nuts having to sit through someones life story when all you want is the meat and potatoes.
Very efficient way to damage your cells, a bit of bad luck and fingers/eyes too
@@sasquatch5863 Hundreds of cells soldered with no impact to capacity or my health. With that success rate, I think there's more than luck on my side. Thanks for watching!
@@sasquatch5863 Only a person with absolutely zero experience with this, just trying to sound cool, would make a foolish statement like that. Yes, a person like YOU probably would damage your battery doing this, because you don't have any sense. It's all a matter of how much heat you put into the cell. If you do it quick and efficient like he shows in the video, there will be ZERO damage to ANYTHING! It's when slow, clumsy people with poor dexterity and who aren't very smart do things like this that damage occurs.
@@smallblockchevy1022 I am afraid you do not understand. To solder you have to heat that area to the melting point and that heat will be transferred to chemistry and affect it negatively. How bad that effect would be it depends, but it will be there that's for sure. Of course it is yours and you can do whatever you want with it.
Thank you for this! I just built two little battery packs this way, and it was easy as pie! As per a commenter's suggestion here, I reused old desoldering braid to link up the cells, and that worked wonderfully. And as the others said, thank you for getting straight to the point and showing us exactly what we need to know! People trying to sell spot welders might not like your video though, but we do ;)
Desolder braid is perfectly fine, good tip. Nothing to sell here but free knowledge 😀
I was doing this almost daily for customers in the mid-1980's (NiCad's were cutting edge then).
Cells were a couple of bucks each but a replacement pack from the manufacturer was $$$.
Hit each cell's ends against a medium grinding wheel for half a second instead of using sandpaper.
Don't glue together until after final solder is cooled and tested -- if you overheat any +ve ends, you will melt things inside and short out that cell, and it would be hard to pull it out after it's glued in, so feel for any "warm" cells 5 minutes after soldering (bad sign, that cell's toast). Don't glue before that test (you can temporarily tape them together for easier soldering). Instead of tabs, flow a drop of rosin-core solder into the end of some braided copper desoldering wick, then touch that end of the wick to the solder drop previouly applied to the roughened -ve cell end and reheat just enough to ensure the "two become one." Now bridge the wick to the +ve end of the next cell, add a small drop and heat that just enough to melt into its existing drop. You're a pro now.
Can the solder wick withstand the same current as a regular tab? Some high end lithium cells do 20A to 40A.
@@umloginqualquer If there's 20-40A involved I'd suggest doing it properly. I'd love to see that power switch!
@@umloginqualquer those old nicads could pull some real current. tiny n-500ar 500mah cells do 17 amps peak all day. common to pull 6-10 amps continuous. the fastest race boats could drain a 1200 scr or 1700 sce sub-c size cell pack in less a minute , say a less than real world 40% efficiency thats still almost 30 amps and many of those high end packs had solder sponge as connectors
Very good and fast job. I did this some years ago, but had no tabbing strips, so I just used regular electrical copper wire instead, but it worked and the battery pack is still good today.
Using wire is the old school method and works just fine.
Great job of shooting and editing. Thanks for *not* wasting everyone's time!
I'd be tempted to sand, flux, and tin the underside of the tabbing too, but I've had a lot of trouble using "old" materials that have become oxidized over the years. 😁
The tabbing often is pre-tinned.
I couldn't get a ts100 to stick my pre soldered 18650's to the tabs of the cordless drill, is my iron capable of the job? It goes up to 400c.
@@jedics1 - Your iron might not quite be up to the task, since 60/40 solder melts around 380 C. Other than that, it's hard to say exactly what your problem is, but the tabs in your cordless drill might be stainless steel. Metals like aluminum, chromium, and stainless (part chromium) resist corrosion not because they're chemically inert but because they are highly active. They form a thin layer of protective oxide that grows over time. I would suggest cleaning those tabs well with acetone if possible or perhaps 91% isopropanol (drug stores sell it) and then using sandpaper, a file, or scraping with an X-acto knife to break thru any surface oxide. Use a highly active flux in addition to the solder and rub the iron against the surface being tinned. If you can tin those tabs with liquid rosin (flux for electronics), that's great. On rare occasions I have had good success with an acid flux like Harris Stay-Clean SCLF4 that contains zinc chloride and hydrochloric acid but this is pretty extreme and should not be necessary for electronic work. You would also need to clean the part well afterwards to neutralize the acid. Once the tab is well tinned and the cell is too, they should solder together with very little additional solder if your iron is hot enough, but be sure to use more liquid rosin flux. Best of luck!
@@ralphwaters8905 Sanding helped a bit but it was still difficult and Im not very confident with the connections that were made although the drill powers up fine. Of course the job was so rough the tabs are now preventing the batteries going back in the case properly. The tip I have is only about 2mm, would it make a real different getting something bigger like 5mm?
As others have said...a tour de force in how to convey information quickly and efficiently. Nice job!
No life stories to be told here!
This was really helpful, I've been searching for this
Very nicely done, good technique all around.
Couple of tips..
I punch a 1/4” hole in wide Kapton tape and put it over the positive button end to further protect against shorts, solder doesn’t bother Kapton.
You dont need so much solder in the first tinning, more mass dumps more heat, and it repeats again when the tab goes on only worse because there’s more dwell time.
i've seen others quench the joint with a moist sponge straight after to help protect the cells. unsure if that is a good idea.. i would have thought a sudden temp change may crack the joint.. but not sure.
You absolutely deserve the compliments everybody below gives you since you show clearly what procedure to follow to obtain flawless connections. Although I have a spot welder I still prefer soldering since solder connections are more flexible. Many RUclipsrs show gluing the cells together with hot glue. You use quite expensive glue. Although I once tried hot glue I do not like that method since the glue often has low adherence. I glue the cells already for years with cheap crystal clear kit/glue (from a sealant tube). It hardens rubbery within a few hours and can be removed with a knife or thin wire (like cheese) without damaging the plastic envelope of the cells.
Thank you. I use CA for everything!
I never use CA on cells, for the simple reason that a few of my packs I had to recell featured CA which made obtaining the cells that were still good impossible, just like retrieving the spacer (which was 1 piece) was impossible, while 3 of the more expensive packs (like the 'cheap' ones aren't expensive at 320 Euro excl. VAT already) had all the cells connected with hot glue, special spacers (14 in total if I remember it right) between the cells to prevent against rubbing, while getting mechanical strength from the spotwelds. If hot-glue doesn't stick, the surface either is greasy/oily or dusty, or you've got the wrong gluesticks. If the gluestick is transparent or semi-transparent before use, but shows discolourization when it comes out of the gluegun, the gluegun gets too hot, or better said: you've got the wrong glue-sticks.
If you get the right ones, you will have a hard time removing the blobs. If you do want to remove the blobs, isopropanol or ketonatus alcohol works a treat. Just rub it along the blob of glue and part you want to loosen, and it will loosen like you haven't seen before.
Thanks for this clear and concise video! I just made my first Lithium Ion battery using your soldering technique.
That awesome to hear Thomas!
Why do you think it's supposed to be welded?
This is to minimize the heat that can damage the whole cell!
Best video on here, very plain straight forward and simple
Thank you!!!
Good video. Right to the point without any annoying music. Thank you very much.
You're welcome very much!
Fast and hot. Use 63/37 solder like kester 84. Some cells are made with a difficult to solder steel. If so use a flat toothpick tip of plumbers tinning flux instead of a flux pen. A soldered joint will take a lot more current safely than a spot welded one.
yes, I always did that because I haven't a welding machine, but you give me another best technic, good job.
Muchas Gracias!
Thanks for a to the point video with no messing around. Its nice to see quality soldering too.
Thanks Chris, you rock!
Excellent video! I have been soldering cells for decades and never had any problems. The damage done is not measurable if using good techniques like You do. Regarding uninformed discussions on spot welding vs soldering Nickel has a resistivity much depending on alloy of 1*10E-7 ohm meter, very near 40/60 solder 1,5*10E-7 ohm-m. Copper is around 2*10E-8 ohm-m. The contact area is much better with solder than spot welding. I have measured similar joints with good micro ohm meters, and the soldered joints are always better than the spot welded ones. Thin copper strip is easier to solder than nickel and is what I prefer. Solder wick is another solution I have seen, but not tried. Cu is however not as strong and is not suitable for spot welding. Make sure the strips have some bend/slack, solder creeps under load... I have tried to spot weld nickel wires to copper , it does not work well. For low cost mass production spot welding is the only viable alternative. Also if You use a thermal imager You will quickly find that good cell contacts spot welded or soldered are a very small part of the problem. 50A squared * 25 uohms figures around = 50mW/ joint .... hardly a concern. The resistance of the strips and the quality of the cells are much more important. Also, acid flux is no good, it causes corrosion over time. Active rosin flux works just fine.
Excellent information, thank you!
Did you measure cell degradation due to heat?
@@bumbarabun I checked the discharge cycle and inner resistance, could not measure any significant difference due to soldering. The heat applied using good soldering techniques seems to be ok for most cells. I think the most potentially sensitive part of some cells may be compromising the seal.
@@erikisberg3886 good to know, what is left is to measure if it affects degradation rate over time and lifecycle, but I guess that is quite long and not easy process.
@@bumbarabun You are right that would be tedious, but in practice I have not noticed any degradation over time due to the soldering. I did this way back to NiCd:s as well. Appropriate charge/discharge cycles are probably much more important for life expectancy.
To minimize the risk of damaging the internals of the cells, you can cool the battery immediately after soldering, using eg brake cleaner or a damp cloth. This becomes more important when you build a high current battery with thick copper wires that need a lot more heat for the solder to properly flow. Use the biggest soldering iron you can find for fastest soldering. Works like a charm!
Instead of brake cleaner you could use compressed air (the kind they sell in computer stores to blow dust away from computer parts). The gas inside gets freezing cold when it comes out.
if only i wouldve known than earlier..I made a 3s pack and it got super toasty to the point where i had to leave it safe in the basement..Didnt want to cool of on its own..
If you absolutely have no other choice than to solder directly to Li-ion cases like this, YES, do whatever it takes to minimize the heat going into your cells. And yes, brake cleaner is a good choice, but the "canned air" for cleaning computers should also work.
@@aeQuator If it wouldn't cool off on its own, it's probably because you shorted one of the cells. This is a hazard with the positive end of the cells, because just under that green plastic on the edge of the cell is the metal case, which is connected to the negative terminal. If the strip you're using to connect the cells gets hot and touches that plastic, it will melt right through it and short the cell. This is quite hazardous, since it can get hot enough to leak the electrolyte, which is flammable.
Never, ever, fast cool a soldered joint. It introduces weaknesses in the joint. Let it cool naturally.
Awesome! Quick and concise! Thanks. Love the beginning where you dont list the tools, but tell where the list is instead, and just get into it. A++ work sir!
Your video has effectively encouraged me to build the replacement batter pack for my RC Transmitter which was hard to find... Thanks!
Great to hear and happy to have helped. Good luck with the battery build.
Excellent Chris. Straight to the point with no bull poo poo. 👍
Thank you! We could all use less bull poo poo in our lives.....unless you're a farmer
thanks. it's worth spending time watching it from beginning to end.
"a superb how-to video" Brilliant, short, sweet, right to the point! Kudos Thank you
Thanks Norm!
if you're concerned about heating the cells (like you don't have that kind of hi temp soldering iron and it takes longer to solder) you can use a wet cloth to cool down the solder joints... also 63/37 solder melts a little faster..
great instructional video.
Wet the cloth with alcohol, won't cause corrosion. Plus you can wipe off the nasties left over from the flux.
@@enopto nice!
Poor advice, never, ever, fast cool a soldered joint.
@@wirdy1 hi, why is that?
god this is nice. he doesn't waste 3 minutes describing what he's going to do. He just does it.
Pitter patter, let's get at er
Finally someone who just cut it to the point .. Thanks very much
Short and sweet!
Nice. Very nice explanation sir. Clear concise and well illustrated. Short and to the point. Thank you.
No, thank you!
This should be the Golden rule for all how to videos
I think you’re right. Thank you!
finally - a good Video - nice BIG tip on the iron 800F / 420 C
Thanks 👍
maybe if you dont have a spot welder and building some small pack but for larger packs spot welding is cleaner, safer, simpler, easier - better on every level
Thank you for this video now my project is completely work thank you very much 😊
Great to hear, thanks!
Dude, I had no idea there was such a thing as super glue accelerator. I’m glad I watched this just to learn that!
Or you can use baking soda as accelerator as well
A light misting of water works
I've just put new batteries in our cordless vacuum cleaner using your method. Many thanks for sharing
Fantastic! Did you use protected cells?
Finally a soldering instruction that uses more flux than the tiny amount inside the wire.
You get it, thank you!!!
I melted the plastic sheath soldering the tab to the positive pole, the tab shorted the battery to the negative outer casing where it melted through the plastic sheath, I now place some folded paper under the tab on the positive so the plastic does not melt.
Good trick.
Thank you, I want to do a combination of solder and spot welding, to 100% secure it, since my last pack's strips got loose (spot weld only) on my e-scooter due to all the vibration.
Soldering will provide a very secure tab connection. My batteries are typically used in small unmanned aircraft where vibration and hard landings require the cells be soldered. I've had issues with spot welded packs in the past. Also think about securing your cells to eliminate movement. Good luck!
@@enopto Ye I uses lots of glue this time on the cells, and drilled a tiny hole in all the strips, so that I could spot weld, and then after solder through the drilled hole. Works really well so far after 2-days of heavy driving around :D
Everything I needed to know in less the 3 minutes! Perfect!
Glad to hear, thanks!
Any one watching this never solder something not intended by the manufacture to be soldered. There's a couple of reasons no commercial packs are soldered direct to can. Look up any manufacture, say Panasonic for instance, Its clearly stated in many different papers "never solder directly to battery" lookup ACA4000pe2. Sure you can solder them and they'll still charge but with the volatility of li-on chemistry and the guaranteed shortened life, why. Good battery spot welders are the same cost as a good soldering station, and at 6 or 7 bucks a pop for a good 18650.
The key is to get in and out quickly and there won't be a problem. (ie avoid heat soak)
i assume thath the reason that cells are not commercially connected by soldering and instead by spot welding is that on a production line with large amounts of product it is faster or cheaper to spot weld them. For the prices i am seeing, a kweld spot welder is much more expensive than a soldering iron.
@@lindamlittle Yes, when I said there's a couple of reason they don't solder, speed would be one of them except it would also be hard for them to get any warranty from the battery manufacture if they knew they were soldering, so it's much less of a reason but yes it's still one of them.
They have soldering stations for $35 whereas a mini spot welder station is 150-200 dollars, with the quality to be known. I tried a portable mini spot welder and the welds were wildly inconsistent, burning holes in some while easily being able to pull off other welds. There are so many variable in spot welding, atleast from a non-wall outlet one running off a battery- voltage, metal buildup on electrode pens, etc
Just use a lower temp solder….
طريقة رائعة، فعالة، سهلة و سريعة.
Dude, great and strait forward instructions that are easy to under stand. Would give two thumbs up if I could.
Thank you, I'll definitely take 1!
good! and I prefer this to welding! you can also use wire and limit current. thanks man
I prefer it too.
Awesome how to video without crazy music in the background.My hat is off to you.
Great video thanks for posting. I figured I’d watch a quick video on doing this myself but once I started looking at the comments like I normally do, they were so expensive that I couldn’t decide weather to do it or not. I have a few shit battery’s I may use to practice on. Thanks again for sharing
You're welcome and good luck!
Very useful video, thank you men!
You're welcome
There's a few steps that I found that you don't have to do all that stuff. Like roughing up the ends you don't have to do that applying flux and stuff you don't have to do that. One method that I found that does work quite well is using some sort of acid whether it's toilet bowl cleaner preferably the works blue label at least that's what I used. I took a 6 volt battery apart and used the shell for the zinc now you can use pennies if need be for zinc since pennies are copper coated zinc. But all you have to do is wait a little bit and then apply that zinc infused acid onto the end and the solder will flow as if it had flux and you did all that at least that's another method anyways.
Short and sweet. Excellent video. Thank you.
You’re very welcome
This is how I always do it pre tin everything just makes life easier.
It does indeed.
Although the soldering technique shown here seems very good and well executed, I'm not sure if it is a good idea to solder batteries, there is just to much heat transferred to the cell, I doubt it doesn't affect them. There is a reason why spot welding is the go to technique when assemble batteries.
I'll be releasing a video soon that tests batteries exposed to heat from a soldering iron. It will show how long the iron can touch the cell until there's damage/performance loss.
@@enopto and my sub
Spot welding is faster. It's that simple. Time is money.
So - Spot-welding batteries don't get them hot?
@@peterjackhandy nowhere near as hot as holding that soldering iron on the cells.
best 18650 soldering video
Thanks Lukas!
NICE! To the point unlike most of the other videos other post..
No one needs to hear a life story when searching for tech help on youtube.
Very nicely done presentation. Concise and complete. Thank you.
Thank you kindly
Good video and to the point
Glad you liked it!
Short sharp and to the point.
Poetic.
Worth saying, well said.
Thanks Robert! What rhymes with solder?
@@enopto Down here that would be colder
Up there it would be codder
So the codder works better when it is colder
And the cod shun this land that is older
I'm actually surprised, this video is in fact correct. Good job 👍
Many thanks!
Nice video! Thank you! Why not make one longer nickel strip tho? I was left a little puzzled how you continue to the third. Do you overlap with another layer of solder? (Would seem unecessary?)
do you understand the concept of a battery? they have opposite ends. the continuation goes on the other side.
@@basketcase1235 ahhh! true! because it´s in series and not parallell right. Yeah makes sense man!! I´m very new to all of this. Still trying to wrap my head around everything ;)
Cheers man!
is there no concern that the solder on the pos terminal will bridge with the negative part underneath the pos terminal?
With flux, it's very easy to control the solder puddle. I've never had a solder flow short the battery.
I don't think this guy even knows what you're talking about. YES, but not the solder, but the nickel strip itself: if the bridging strip melts through the heatshrink, which it can easily do, it will touch the outer shell and short out that cell. DO NOT do this.
There is a paper washer under the heat shrink that insulates the case surrounding the positive terminal. With unwrapped cells you have to do this yourself before making packs. Either way always consider Lion cells a fire risk and don’t store them under your bed😉
I have soldered lifepo4 cells with great success this way for rc planes etc.
I am getting into ebikes now and they need a LOT more cells so undecided whether to solder or get a pot welder.
@codey morganti you can weld nickel strips to batteries and then (or before) solder nickel strips to copper bus. Win-win. Also they make nickel plates with embedded fuses now and that would be useful as well - ruclips.net/video/RyrcyjIDs-k/видео.html&ab_channel=HBPowerwall
Very nice video! straight up! thanks alot!
Excellent video!
Thank You, Sir!
nice video :D short and sweet, guys u have to leave 1 positive from a corner and one negative from the otherside because if u soldering them all u will short the batteries. hope u understand what i wanna say
Good point!
Thank you so much, super video 😊
You're so very welcome!
Nice work, good video.
Thank you very much!
Awesome video.
Thank you. Excellent video.
Thanks J Bro!
Thank you for video.
In case of used cells consider usage of these with similar capacity.
Yes, definitely
Great and thanks for sharing .
I bought a TS100 to solder new batteries into my cordless drill, I applied solder to each of them, then pushed the tabs down onto the cells with the iron and held it there for way longer than shown here but the tabs just would not stick, am I doing something wrong or is the iron not up to such a task?
That soldering iron looks to be rated at 65W max, it should work. Make sure the soldering iron if fully heated to its max 400°c temp, you’ve cleaned everything and are using flux. Good luck!
done 4000 cells all connected this way. Ensure the solder fumes are vented outside..! Mine look a little unpleasant as I dont remove the spot weld tag so no solder directly to cell.
Thanks for video
Generally you are not supposed to solder to lithium cells because of damaging the negative side with heat because it is close to the surface of the cell. This is the quickest I have seen soldering on 18650 cells. The key is a very hot iron and a fat tip to hold transfer the heat.
You've got it!
An efficient way of doing it. The part I find hardest is getting the strips not to shift as I'm soldering them, or not sitting flat. The possible stick is a good idea. It would probably be a good idea to point out that these are protected cells, otherwise a BMS board would have to be incorporated into the battery pack.
these arnet protected cells mate
These aren't protected cells. The pack was built for a solar powered UAV, so I don't need the BMS
Excellent job!!I have one question though...I have baught 6 new NCR18650B 3.7V batteries to rebuild my Toshiba Satellite laptop battery that had 6x CGR18650CE .Do i have to recharge them one by one b4 i solder them, or rebuild it as it is and let the laptop do the job?
It's always good practice to ensure the batteries are near the same voltage. If you don't have a volt meter to check, the easiest way to make sure they're the same voltage is to charge them individually.
@@enopto 1000 thanks and best wishes for a prosperous and a happy new year of yours
You're welcome. Have a wonderful new year!
Excellent video
Thanks Bryan!
for those who can't do the temp control soldering iron, take one of those dumb soldering irons (no temp control) and let it heat until temp is reached, use when temp is on the high end, stop when temp is on the low end; I measure the temperature with a laser thermometer.
HAI GOOD MORNING SUPER idea SUPER job SUPER solding
Many thanks!
I think the negative comments below came from ones who already invested in a spot welder. However I would have tinned the tabbing first before soldering to the cell. It would have taken less time to bond therefore less heat to the cell. I am holding off on buying a spot welder and will try this. Thanks so much.
Is it true one can use vaseline as an alternative to soldering flux/paste?
That's a new one for me. I bet the Googles would know.
Thank you for posting this
You're very welcome
A couple of years after the video posted, but you can get really good internal-battery-run mini spot welders for about $40-50 now though. If you intend to make many, or a big one like for ebikes etc, that's more than worth it just for the risk reduction.
I don't trust spot welded batteries in UAVs that experience high vibration and constant handling for pack swaps. For reference; my spot welded packs and soldered packs perform the same, however the spot welded packs aren't as durable, especially during a crash.
There is not danger of shorcut while soldering the positive pole that is so near to the negative body on the battery?
Excellent , no nonsense explanation, could you do some repair videos in the same style ?
What precisely would you like to see?
@@enopto iPhone 6 battery replacement ?
The stripping metal is pure nickel, right? Also, can a properly adjusted butane heated soldering work? Thank you 🤓
The soldering iron, the big ones butane heated for soldering big pieces or tin roofs, will have too much stored heat so you risk to cook the cell. The purpose is to heat instantly just the cap no farther and that need very little heat in fact.
Short and sweet, well done!
Thanks!
Excellent howto on making howto videos.
I have a practically new e-bike battery that has one bad cell. It was replaced under warranty and the company didn't want the old battery back. I've been wondering how to utilize the cells. This might work for me, but I'm not sure my soldering iron is big enough for the task. It's really for delicate electronic work. I also have an old Weller soldering "gun" (because it is shaped like a gun). It's rated 100 watts, but of course has no temperature indicator. Do you think that would work? I'd like to make a couple of 12V batteries from some of these cells.
a nice video no endless talking
Thanks!
great to see video on soldering--Ive used both and fed up of spot welds failing when bounced around on an E-bike. This doesn't happen with solder--fr better in my experience
I couldn't agree more
Great video! now i can stop looking for button top batteries for my new high powered led flashlight, and just solder top the molicel's i already have. other videos on youtube make this process seem much more difficult and unreliable (solder vs tack weld). I just need a better solder iron, any suggestions?
Anything over 60w should work fine. The trick is using a wide tip on a really hot soldering iron.
Try a Weller 80 watt iron. That is what I use and it comes with the proper tip for doing this kind of work and it is priced right.
What are the tabbing strips made out of? TIA
i like this very much
Muchas gracias!
I'm going to try this, but preheat the cells in the oven to 60-70c (they are rated for this) in the hope that the solder time is as fast as possible.