PS, thanks for the videos. Great Stuff (been having fun with your 433 mHz content). Formerly, I would solder to 18650 batteries despite the warnings. But I came across a cordless hand-held spot welder for less than $20US. That tool, plus some nickle strips was all I needed. I use two contact/landings that result in 4 weld points at each battery terminal. Very, very tough. Hope that helps you and your followers!
Thanks for sharing your technique. Keeping the heat down on these batteries is essential and this helps. I've tried to find some phosphoric acid or solder acid in the states that contain it, but I've come up short or have to buy a gallon of it for an obscene amount. Can you provide a link for this product please? Thanks!
Hello,nice video.With soldering acid,you will damage the nickel plating of your soldering tip.Sanding works also,and regular electronik flux(colophonium) works fine. Best regards
Sanding does not really work. Oxide layer recreates itself very fast and solder sticks mostly due to filling the scratches. Solid joint would have to be created in non oxidizing atmosphere. So without oxygen
People always try to take the easy road. Sanding may work in a pinch, but I would not rely on it. The acid is the way to go, using specific solder flux based on the metal being soldered is the way to properly apply a joint.
Thanks. It would've been nice to see how the rest (wiring or tabs) is done to complete the assembly of a pack. I also wonder how it compares to spot welding in terms of resistance. Perhaps the difference is negligible.
I have done solder terminated nimh cells with short taps of the iron and some flux, though i used just RMA flux, it worked fine? Ultimately i'd really like to avoid soldering to Li-ion cells. I have a semi abundance of pre tabbed 18650s that i just found on the street one day, someone seems to have gotten rid of their Hoverboard innards that way, LG cells, most are good, but later i'm thinking of building a tab welding rig. I don't want to go with the usual rebuilt microwave transformer route and instead have a capacitor bank that is released via some MOSFETs or so.
Is dipping In water safe? It doesn't cause a short in the pos tip with the neg casing underneath? I had heard that Lithium fool found In 18650 batteries reacted to water exothermically, not accurate?
Yes, it is safe, the batteries are sealed so the lithium has no way of reacting to the water. The water will make a short, but water is not a great conductor of low voltage electricity so as long as it is not in the water for a long period of time there is nothing to worry about.
"25 watts is not enough" - my Antex 25 disagrees. Have a look at the thermal mass of an Antex soldering iron tip and you'll see why. Not cheap but worth every penny.
Bought some soldering acid after a previous video - had to use it for the first time this week to attach a replacement button battery to an ancient GPS
Yeah 25W can be a good amount of punch in a well designed iron. These "60W" irons from China, Hakko clones, they seem to have closer to 36W real power, plus there's a horrendous gap between the heater and the tip, so you might have more heat going in the barrel than into the tip. I mean at the prices they go for before export, and especially the insanely cheap tips, the poor tolerances are hardly a surprise, but it is what it is. I hear Russians pour graphite or copper grease into the gap to seal it and improve the behaviour drastically. But well that's a mess. Also T12 Chinese irons (70W-ish), when they work and they haven't messed up the contacts in the handle or something else equally trivial, well those are good, eliminating the fundamental necessity for precision surfaces.
Not likely as long it's not a cold solder joint, with sufficient soldering iron heat and your results spread out as shown you should experience no problems. Cold soldered joints tend to ball up and look less shiny.
So I've don't it with scratch and no flux and just flux not acid . Both Worked fine neither required me to dip in water ( do not advise sanding (metal shavings I'm vent hold is disaster
And if i need to strip a wire i need a stripping tool. But a lighter or a knife also work. If you don't have the acid, sanding or scratching also works. As long as it gets the job done, it works. Saying people are stupid for suggesting sanding, makes you a moron. Almost everyone has sandpaper. Almost no one has acid laying around.
It's difficult or impossible to find soldering acid in amazon or local shops in my country. Perhaps because of it's acid content. So it seems that I'll have to revert to listening to stupid people.
This is a TERRIBLE idea. You should NEVER solder onto an 18650 battery. EVER. Soldering onto an 18650 is DANGEROUS!! When you solder onto an 18650, you pass heat into the battery itself. This causes two major problems, both can cause a runaway failure of the battery 1) Applying enough heat to the 18650 battery to "solder" anything to it causes the casing (the metal can it's in) to heat up significantly. this can "melt" the polymer separation film between the two layers. causing a runaway reaction. the battery will then try to swell up as gasses are produced internally, and finally it may EXPLODE. 2) By applying heat in excess of 150c to the battery, you are degrading the LiPo substrate, this will drastically shorten the life of the battery, and may ultimately cause it to fail catastrophically, causing a fire, or explosion, or both. When you degrade the LiPo substrate, it can start to form dendrites, these dendrites are like tiny microscopic spikes, and build up, eventually bridging across the permeable polymer membrane that separates the depleted side from the charged side, once this bridge happens, the battery will significantly heat up during an attempted charge cycle, and may cause a runaway reaction that causes a fire, or explosion. It is NEVER advisable to solder onto an 18650 battery. the warnings you see on these batteries, and elsewhere in documentation for these batteries specifically warn you against excessive heat for this very reason. ruclips.net/video/E3D6V7vEhl0/видео.html
The warning are for noobs. and it is really dangerous for noobs to solder these batteries. in the economic side of it noobs are always the one who will surely solder batteries coz they lack money to buy a decent spot welder. but Pros on the other hand won't do it either coz most of the pros already probably have their own spot welder 🤣 only those pros who don't do repair for a living would do such thing (and has no reason to buy a spot welder). and when we say pro.. these are the people who has built in thermal camera in their eyes... they naturally can see how heat is transfer and know what "enough heat" is. the same way a Chief cook on a old school stove. they knew how much heat is enough.
That first solder stayed on very good. 😂
Right! 😂 that’s the curse of demo videos. It worked that time, but I wouldn’t trust it in my expensive plane!
Roughening the surface with sandpaper also worked fine for me so far.
Yep, just sand it a little bit
Yes, it works, but its time consuming and you can get this sort of acid very cheaply. Makes your life a lot easier.
The second solder was very quick.
Using a cloth soaked in water and applying to the area immediately after soldering helps cool the area down.
PS, thanks for the videos. Great Stuff (been having fun with your 433 mHz content). Formerly, I would solder to 18650 batteries despite the warnings. But I came across a cordless hand-held spot welder for less than $20US. That tool, plus some nickle strips was all I needed. I use two contact/landings that result in 4 weld points at each battery terminal. Very, very tough. Hope that helps you and your followers!
Thanks for sharing your technique. Keeping the heat down on these batteries is essential and this helps.
I've tried to find some phosphoric acid or solder acid in the states that contain it, but I've come up short or have to buy a gallon of it for an obscene amount. Can you provide a link for this product please?
Thanks!
Hello,nice video.With soldering acid,you will damage the nickel plating of your soldering tip.Sanding works also,and regular electronik flux(colophonium) works fine. Best regards
KAAS LUTOWNICZY na pudełku!! Hehe
I've seen people do it with sanding. But your way seems good too
Sanding does not really work. Oxide layer recreates itself very fast and solder sticks mostly due to filling the scratches. Solid joint would have to be created in non oxidizing atmosphere. So without oxygen
People always try to take the easy road. Sanding may work in a pinch, but I would not rely on it. The acid is the way to go, using specific solder flux based on the metal being soldered is the way to properly apply a joint.
Thanks, I just soldered a flashlight and I wanted to know if I would blow up if I heated the battery but fortunaly I didn't blow up.
it won't but it will degrade the battery and would die faster if you solder on it too long.
Thanks. It would've been nice to see how the rest (wiring or tabs) is done to complete the assembly of a pack. I also wonder how it compares to spot welding in terms of resistance. Perhaps the difference is negligible.
A thousandth of an ohm, maybe? I get 18650 packs that are certainly hand soldered, although quite well, and the voltage drop is undiscernable.
I have done solder terminated nimh cells with short taps of the iron and some flux, though i used just RMA flux, it worked fine? Ultimately i'd really like to avoid soldering to Li-ion cells. I have a semi abundance of pre tabbed 18650s that i just found on the street one day, someone seems to have gotten rid of their Hoverboard innards that way, LG cells, most are good, but later i'm thinking of building a tab welding rig. I don't want to go with the usual rebuilt microwave transformer route and instead have a capacitor bank that is released via some MOSFETs or so.
Is dipping In water safe? It doesn't cause a short in the pos tip with the neg casing underneath? I had heard that Lithium fool found In 18650 batteries reacted to water exothermically, not accurate?
Yes, it is safe, the batteries are sealed so the lithium has no way of reacting to the water. The water will make a short, but water is not a great conductor of low voltage electricity so as long as it is not in the water for a long period of time there is nothing to worry about.
"25 watts is not enough" - my Antex 25 disagrees. Have a look at the thermal mass of an Antex soldering iron tip and you'll see why. Not cheap but worth every penny.
Bought some soldering acid after a previous video - had to use it for the first time this week to attach a replacement button battery to an ancient GPS
Yeah 25W can be a good amount of punch in a well designed iron. These "60W" irons from China, Hakko clones, they seem to have closer to 36W real power, plus there's a horrendous gap between the heater and the tip, so you might have more heat going in the barrel than into the tip. I mean at the prices they go for before export, and especially the insanely cheap tips, the poor tolerances are hardly a surprise, but it is what it is.
I hear Russians pour graphite or copper grease into the gap to seal it and improve the behaviour drastically. But well that's a mess.
Also T12 Chinese irons (70W-ish), when they work and they haven't messed up the contacts in the handle or something else equally trivial, well those are good, eliminating the fundamental necessity for precision surfaces.
Is that a whisky in the glass in the upper right corner? 🤔
yes, yes it is :)
@@PSAfterHours you’re a wise man 😃
much better if you fold your solder so you can solder twice as much in one go.
*****DON'T dip in water unless it's distilled water. Tap water is conductive distilled is not it lacks electrolytes.
Thank you very much!
You should mention that the acid may damage soldering tips, so use cheap/old tips.
I would also wash the soldering tips so they last longer.
doesn't matter most people now a days have tip tinner with them after use before storage.
Man, that’s all it takes and you can build packs? Is there a concern that the solder joints may crack due to vibration or a crash or anything?
Not likely as long it's not a cold solder joint, with sufficient soldering iron heat and your results spread out as shown you should experience no problems. Cold soldered joints tend to ball up and look less shiny.
So I've don't it with scratch and no flux and just flux not acid . Both Worked fine neither required me to dip in water ( do not advise sanding (metal shavings I'm vent hold is disaster
And if i need to strip a wire i need a stripping tool. But a lighter or a knife also work. If you don't have the acid, sanding or scratching also works. As long as it gets the job done, it works. Saying people are stupid for suggesting sanding, makes you a moron. Almost everyone has sandpaper. Almost no one has acid laying around.
you can clearly see , that the drop of soldering lead on the battery with the first try , is already well attached , no need of acid !!!
Mujhe price karna hai
Fuck 😅😂😂😂 anyway 😂😂😂😂😅😅 Nice video Bro made my day 😂😂😂
And never use acid on cooper layers of FC or ESC
It's difficult or impossible to find soldering acid in amazon or local shops in my country. Perhaps because of it's acid content. So it seems that I'll have to revert to listening to stupid people.
I was with you until you dipped a lithium battery in to water
Use a file. Easy life.
This is a TERRIBLE idea.
You should NEVER solder onto an 18650 battery. EVER.
Soldering onto an 18650 is DANGEROUS!!
When you solder onto an 18650, you pass heat into the battery itself. This causes two major problems, both can cause a runaway failure of the battery
1) Applying enough heat to the 18650 battery to "solder" anything to it causes the casing (the metal can it's in) to heat up significantly. this can "melt" the polymer separation film between the two layers. causing a runaway reaction. the battery will then try to swell up as gasses are produced internally, and finally it may EXPLODE.
2) By applying heat in excess of 150c to the battery, you are degrading the LiPo substrate, this will drastically shorten the life of the battery, and may ultimately cause it to fail catastrophically, causing a fire, or explosion, or both. When you degrade the LiPo substrate, it can start to form dendrites, these dendrites are like tiny microscopic spikes, and build up, eventually bridging across the permeable polymer membrane that separates the depleted side from the charged side, once this bridge happens, the battery will significantly heat up during an attempted charge cycle, and may cause a runaway reaction that causes a fire, or explosion.
It is NEVER advisable to solder onto an 18650 battery. the warnings you see on these batteries, and elsewhere in documentation for these batteries specifically warn you against excessive heat for this very reason.
ruclips.net/video/E3D6V7vEhl0/видео.html
The warning are for noobs. and it is really dangerous for noobs to solder these batteries. in the economic side of it noobs are always the one who will surely solder batteries coz they lack money to buy a decent spot welder.
but Pros on the other hand won't do it either coz most of the pros already probably have their own spot welder 🤣
only those pros who don't do repair for a living would do such thing (and has no reason to buy a spot welder). and when we say pro.. these are the people who has built in thermal camera in their eyes... they naturally can see how heat is transfer and know what "enough heat" is. the same way a Chief cook on a old school stove. they knew how much heat is enough.
Bullshit.
Best job 4u learn talk then u can give lessons 1stly learn please.