The diag rom you are using is made by kinzi which is a member of the German "forum 64". He helped me to learn a lot about commodore machines and due to his help I could repair several machines (c64 I and c64 II, a c128d as well). / Keep up the good work, I enjoy your videos!
I think the fact that they had to rotate the xfmr slightly to fit their PCB which they could have designed to any size to fit a custom plastic case indicates that they used an already available case. Plus, I'd imagine that making an injection mold for a custom case isn't cheap enough for such a limited production design.
It looks like the transformer rotation is on purpose. The silkscreen has markings for both a straight and slightly rotated transformer, my guess is the 230V and 110V transformers have a slightly different footprint (Noel's 110V version is straight)
I love the format of this video. Basic troubleshooting. When you mentioned 10 ohms i was thinking 5v discharge power off side of switch. If a switch ever goes full short you get near 10 ohms on and off, but that is rare.
I was curious as to what you are using to capture the video coming out of the C64C, because I have a capture device that works with both an Atari 8-Bit and a Colecovision, but not with my Commodores.
It's a retrotink 5x. The C64 outputs an odd vertical sync and some devices will not work at all with it. I have a couple here that don't work with the 64
@@TheRetroChannel Yeah I also have a retrotink which works quite well for displaying on an HDTV via HDMI, but I was specifically wondering what you use to capture the video to the PC side of things when doing the RUclips videos.
Didnt the Aus PSU packs have them filled with some from of glue or resign in them? I remember when I had a C64C, we kept getting bad ones until we finally got a good one. I was told it was filled with resign and they were not repairable (at least at that time)
Yep, the white bricks are potted (filled with resin). There were at least 4 different PSUs Commodore used in Aus, with the white ones being the final version
@@TheRetroChannel And they were like fire bricks, we had ours raised off the carpet on the concrete fireplace mount and to attempt to keep it cool, we used our only oscillating fan over it for extra cooling.
Yeah, I use an original brick with a saver on my own machine. Sure, a SMPS will be more efficient but these machines were designed for a linear supply and using anything else can cause more trouble than its worth
My brand new Electroware power supply had a cable connector that just fell apart. I was told to glue it myself... Anyone have any luck with the Keelog adapters?
Wow really? That's not the best after sales service. I tested out a Keelog a few years ago and it wasn't great, AC voltage was too high and it produced a lot of video noise. They may have improved their design since then, I don't know
@@TheRetroChannel Hmm.. Really not sure what to do about the C64 PSU situation. I also ordered a different Polish type of C64 replacement PSU prior to the Electroware, but it was low quality as well. I really hate to open high voltage things and have loose pieces of hot glue falling out... I have about 5 refurbished C64s I want to sell on, but I only want to sell them bundled with a good CE-approved, safe and legal quality replacement PSU. ...and yes.. it should be cheap too 🙂 Lastly, my refurbished C64s do not draw a lot of current, so some replacement PCBs I have tried had a crazy high 5.35V voltage to begin with, thinking they should overcome a long cable and a hefty current draw of a fully decked out old style C64 to end up with a voltage loss settling at about 5.0 volts, but on mine the resulting voltage is much higher, close to 5.27v, which is too high in my opinion. Many 5V chips are only rated to run between 4.75 and 5.25 volts.
My keelog PSU tester had the same wiring issue as seen here (it onky catered for the pinout of the newer version of the PSU, though). They just told me to fix it myself and offered a discount.
The diag rom you are using is made by kinzi which is a member of the German "forum 64". He helped me to learn a lot about commodore machines and due to his help I could repair several machines (c64 I and c64 II, a c128d as well). / Keep up the good work, I enjoy your videos!
Thanks for the mention :)
I nearly fell out of my chair with laughter when I heard your Tommy from Arctic Retro Impression =8)
Nice to see your channel growing. Keep up the good work!
I think the fact that they had to rotate the xfmr slightly to fit their PCB which they could have designed to any size to fit a custom plastic case indicates that they used an already available case. Plus, I'd imagine that making an injection mold for a custom case isn't cheap enough for such a limited production design.
It looks like the transformer rotation is on purpose. The silkscreen has markings for both a straight and slightly rotated transformer, my guess is the 230V and 110V transformers have a slightly different footprint (Noel's 110V version is straight)
I like the name you used for the C64 PSU load tester :)
Recapping a c64 shortboard is about as necessary as snakeoil
Yeah, I don't consider it necessary. But the owner wanted it done and they already purchased a cap kit, so no point letting them go to waste
I love the format of this video. Basic troubleshooting. When you mentioned 10 ohms i was thinking 5v discharge power off side of switch. If a switch ever goes full short you get near 10 ohms on and off, but that is rare.
Snap! 😂 I do love Tomy from Artic Retro tho, now I need to hear his impression of Mark
Loved this video. Something fun about just going through things and seeing what you find.
Good work on these, love watching you at work, I learn heaps!
Kodak! I worked there in electronic “advanced development”, 1984-2002! Learned a lot of NTSC circuits there!
I'm using that same black PSU that you tested with my C64 I bought from you and it works great.
One of my Breadbin 64's delays on powerup, but the power source is good
Could be the capacitor near the 556 has gone out of spec. Usually a 1-2 second delay is normal but if that cap is bad it will take longer
I was curious as to what you are using to capture the video coming out of the C64C, because I have a capture device that works with both an Atari 8-Bit and a Colecovision, but not with my Commodores.
It's a retrotink 5x. The C64 outputs an odd vertical sync and some devices will not work at all with it. I have a couple here that don't work with the 64
@@TheRetroChannel Yeah I also have a retrotink which works quite well for displaying on an HDTV via HDMI, but I was specifically wondering what you use to capture the video to the PC side of things when doing the RUclips videos.
@michaelst.pierre1187 Ah ok, I use the HDMI output from the tink 5x into an EVGA XR1 lite
Didnt the Aus PSU packs have them filled with some from of glue or resign in them? I remember when I had a C64C, we kept getting bad ones until we finally got a good one. I was told it was filled with resign and they were not repairable (at least at that time)
Yep, the white bricks are potted (filled with resin). There were at least 4 different PSUs Commodore used in Aus, with the white ones being the final version
@@TheRetroChannel And they were like fire bricks, we had ours raised off the carpet on the concrete fireplace mount and to attempt to keep it cool, we used our only oscillating fan over it for extra cooling.
Where can i buy a Le Janque Load 64 😅?
FWIW I've gone back to using a brick PSU with saver module.
Yeah, I use an original brick with a saver on my own machine. Sure, a SMPS will be more efficient but these machines were designed for a linear supply and using anything else can cause more trouble than its worth
Hey man you’re his mate so you’d probably know, what’s happening with Mr Lurch? I haven’t seen a video from him in ages. Hope he’s doing well.
He's fine, just taking a hiatus from RUclips
@@TheRetroChannel Cheers. Thanks for the heads up.
My brand new Electroware power supply had a cable connector that just fell apart. I was told to glue it myself... Anyone have any luck with the Keelog adapters?
Wow really? That's not the best after sales service. I tested out a Keelog a few years ago and it wasn't great, AC voltage was too high and it produced a lot of video noise. They may have improved their design since then, I don't know
@@TheRetroChannel Hmm.. Really not sure what to do about the C64 PSU situation. I also ordered a different Polish type of C64 replacement PSU prior to the Electroware, but it was low quality as well. I really hate to open high voltage things and have loose pieces of hot glue falling out... I have about 5 refurbished C64s I want to sell on, but I only want to sell them bundled with a good CE-approved, safe and legal quality replacement PSU. ...and yes.. it should be cheap too 🙂 Lastly, my refurbished C64s do not draw a lot of current, so some replacement PCBs I have tried had a crazy high 5.35V voltage to begin with, thinking they should overcome a long cable and a hefty current draw of a fully decked out old style C64 to end up with a voltage loss settling at about 5.0 volts, but on mine the resulting voltage is much higher, close to 5.27v, which is too high in my opinion. Many 5V chips are only rated to run between 4.75 and 5.25 volts.
My keelog PSU tester had the same wiring issue as seen here (it onky catered for the pinout of the newer version of the PSU, though). They just told me to fix it myself and offered a discount.
@@christianlarsen1070 Thanks for the information.
🍪
⏩
The Schell of the power supply is not custom, the PCB is really badly design,...