Finally, we did it! This 4L60E rebuild series is finally over. Some fun stats: -Five episodes (Ep.3-8) uploaded over five weeks -Final project size of 104GB and length of 2:08.13 -Cut from 2TB of video files, pictures, and various media -A total of 16:27.12 of voiceover recordings -165 days from when transmission disassembly was started to when this episode was uploaded This was the single biggest project we have undertaken thus far. Not the rebuild itself, but this video series! We sincerely hope everyone has enjoyed it and/or found it helpful! Despite the transmission being back together, the problems with the truck really haven't been fixed. We will be taking the next week off to catch up on editing other videos, and plan to get one episode of another series uploaded on December 7th. After that, we will come back to this truck and spend an episode or two rebuilding the transfer case before actually putting it all back together.
Your rebuild series are the best! Very thorough and well put toghether. And there's something very soothing in your voiceovers. Thanks for the great videos, and keep em coming!
@@jeffr0 I rebuilt the 700R4 in the S10 Blazer last year, that was my first trans rebuild and since they are extremely similar to the 4L60E I'd say I pretty much knew how to get it done before starting this rebuild. Glad you enjoyed the detailed videos!
@@jeffr0 There is much more to a rebuild than is shown here. This covered the basics. Lots of things were overlooked here that could cause a problem once re-installed in the vehicle.
I always had respect for mechanics which grew more when I started working on my project car. Now after watching this rebuild series I have to say people who work on transmissions must be gods. I always heard that transmission work can be difficult but I never realized how difficult until now. Thank you for sharing your experiences with working on your vehicles. I think your videos have more information than most tv series dealing with working on cars. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
Your transmission series has help me rebuild two transmission I'm about to put the pa. On the second one while awaiting a acc piston. Thanks man semper fi,
To get the reverse drum on the input drum use your palms on both sides of the drum and alternate them back and forth like you're starting a fire. The constant back and forth motion will shake the clutches into place and it will start dropping down when the splines start lining up.
The separator plate also has 2 line up holes. I use bolts for this, but the first one is one of the shortest bolts in the top left hand corner, and the other uses a long bolt and the hole is the top pressure switch hole closest to the pump. You can also gel the checkballs into the VB instead of laying them on the plate.
Just like building things with Lego.... Following your instruction I'm going to attempt re-building my own. I've got a 2004 Chevy Express Van with the same transmission.
Great Video. Instead of cutting a drain hole in the pan I have a mity vac fluid evacuator that holds around 6 quarts. I put the tube down the dipstick and suck all the fluid I can and the pan does not rain down. Nice thing is 1 evacuator for all vehicles vs needing a drain in each one. I also use it to drain down master cylinders to put all new fluid in before bleeding brakes. Great to adjusting oil levels if you ever overfill an oil change. PS fluid changes with it work well too. Thanks for the video.
Boats with inboard engines use something similar. Kind of hard to put a drain pan under the engine doing oil changes. I just thought about something--I wonder if boat motors that use car type engines even have oil pans with drain plugs? Vibration issues could cause them to come loose, making a mess down there, or even worse, engine damage, due to oil loss... lol
This is my first transmission build and found an easy way to marry the input drum and reverse input drum. Took 30 seconds. I put a dab of Super lube on the washer and thrut bearing to secure them. Reverse drum sitting on a chair with a hole in it. Aligned clutch teeth with a screwdriver. Put input shaft into reverse drum and shaft goes through hole in chair. Gently wiggled until 2nd shaft seal was exposed.
Im really enjoying your video series. Please keep up the great work. I would really love to see some new videos of the S10 Blazer. Greetings from Germany to the USA :)
Hey man thank you so much for these videos. Rebuilt the trans in my 96 k1500 following your videos. Got installed today and everything works great so way. Thanks again . Love your channel 🤘🏻
Great video, I’m really glad I watched this. I was having trouble getting my transmission together, late last night. I’m gonna make that little 2x4 stand, and I didn’t know how careful / how important those Teflon seals are in the pump. Thanks man hopefully this goes smooth for me today
Yeah, leaving some fluid in the bottom of the pan is because of the height of the nut is kind of irrelevant. If youre draining to take the pan off youre going to get that out later and if youre just draining to refill the little bit left in the pan is nothing compared to the gallon or more left in the rest of the system.
Thanks for the series. I think I'll put some money up for a new genuine GM transmission. After seeing what's involved, I wouldn't do this myself or trust a shop
i hope u see this comment my name is david lutgendorf and i'm a big fan of u and my dad past away over the summer and he was a macanic like u kinda and like fixing and taking a part moters i miss him but i know u won't see this but if u do sorry for ranting
Very sorry to hear that! If you are interested in these videos you must be interested in some of the same things your father was into, I have found that sharing those interests and moving forward is a great way to honor passed on loved ones without forgetting them. Can help to connect with memories and feel in touch with them through experiencing some of the same things they did. Sorry for your loss!
I did a 700R4 rebuild for a family member a few years ago during winter. Even though I had a manual for the transmission I somehow ending up installing the sprag in backwards. This resulted in the truck being in a Drive scenario at all times. Sucked to find out after it was all installed.
Why didn't you just weld a castle nut to the bottom of the pan? then the oil could flow though the castle part of the nut and most of the oil would drain out then and you would still get a flat surface so that tightening the drain plug wouldn't dis-form the pan.
"Transmission fluid isn't cheap but I am!" That was hilarious. Can't wait for the transfer case. Although I'll never rebuild an automatic (some black magic stuff in those things) I do want to have a go at my jeeps transfer case! And to elaborate more on filtering that fluid. Do you think it would actually work? I'm going to be replacing the valve body gasket on a friends Ford ranger (about as far as I dare to go) and he doesn't want to buy more fluid again. We just took it apart a few months ago for a shift solenoid replacement which didn't fix the shifting issue so the valve body gasket is the next stop. We refilled about 6 bottles of Mercon V and it wasn't cheap. Like 54 bucks. So if we filtered what we drained since its fairly new, do you think it would hurt anything to reuse the fluid? Thanks in advance. Love your videos. Been hooked since the first S10 episode.
I wouldn't worry about it unless the fluid was old anyway or there was significant contamination (ex. coolant, friction material, metal). Don't use a grimy old filter, of course, but a new/low mileage one with some low mileage fluid shouldn't hurt anything, and is a little extra insurance from any debris that may fall in the drain pan. The fluid the clutch frictions soaked in that I filtered didn't come out as red as new fluid, but it did lighten it up. Have done the same filtering thing to refill transmissions after a non-fluid change related transmission pan drop as well. Best bet would be new fluid, but for "good enough" filtering slightly used ATF should be fine. Thanks for the kind works, and good luck with that valve body gasket!
I usually stay with Valvoline, though I'm sure any brand is fine. But I'd strongly recommend running full synthetic for LS trucks and other recent models. They tend to run pretty hot unless they have an auxiliary transmission cooler, hot enough to eventually cook conventional oils. My understanding is that conventional oils start to break down above 230 degrees F, but synthetics are good to 270 degrees F (not that you ever want to see the trans get that hot).
@@FuzzyDiceProjects 180 is tops, if u wanna give a good long life for all the internal components. One of my trucks has 600.000 miles, and tranny was rebuild only once at 300+ k miles
So is this now your full time occupation? And is this your primary field or do you do something else? I truly enjoy these videos and am always looking forward to the next. The outtakes always make my day as well, thanks for sharing all of this...
At the moment it is my primary income, but the earnings are relatively unpredictable so it's not a good idea to rely on it for too much longer. Glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for your support!
It seems like if you welded the nut on the bottom of the pan all the way around, cleaned the slag and went over it to ensure a seamless weld then you would be able to drain all the fluid no prob. To make sure there is no leak with the bolt threaded in you could use those rubber drain bolt seals that you sometimes see on oil drain bolts. Would that work you think?
Welding to the bottom of the pan is tricky, using shielding gas would definitely increase the odds of a clean weld, as would several passes. The weld around the washer was flux core and two passes, but obviously still had a pinhole somewhere hard to see. Welding the nut on the inside of the pan flat to the surface as I had done in the past is what I will be continuing to do in the future.
Fuzzy Dice Projects sounds good. My OCD definitely hates the idea of not getting all of the fluid out LOL. But in reality I don’t think it matters much. Especially if you are keeping it changed at proper intervals.
@@RoosterSpur Well if you are dropping the pan to change the filter which should typically be done every time the fluid is changed, all of the fluid in the pan can be emptied anyway, it just means a little care must be taken not to completely tip the pan over when removing it in order to not make a mess. A standard pan-drop fluid change will only get around 5 quarts out, leaving 7 quarts in the torque converter and transmission though.
1st things 1st your a smart guy! I Have a question concerning the Jeep Cherokee project you do with your friend I know this isn't the video but I still have a question about it . Do you have to have cylinder one at top dead center when you're Installing push rods and rockers? Because my buddy just bought a new head for his Cherokee and it's the right head and when we put all the push rods and lifters in they looked fine and then when we installed the rockers they were Kocked to the left of the center of the valve top?
I'm not sure what you mean, I think this is a typo: "when we installed the rockers they were Kok" It shouldn't matter how the crankshaft is positioned since the rockers on an inline six Jeep 4.0L are non-adjustable (to the best of my knowledge) and the hydraulic lifters will collapse if they need to as the bolts are tightened. Are all of the pushrods still in place on the lifters and in place on the rockers? If it is a really high-mileage or gunky engine it is possible that some of the lifters are sticky and not raising up without oil pressure to assist them. Was it particularly "ticky" before the cylinder head replacement?
@@FuzzyDiceProjects sorry about the typo. I fixed that and no he just rebuilt the 4.0 new crank, oversized pistons and new lifters pushrods head and rockers. That's why I can't figure out when I installed the head and pushrods 10 of the 12 rockers after torqued down they were seated on the valves properly, except 3 of them they had play in them and when tighting them down they "kocked over to a 9:00 position. With the old head they had ran all the new parts for about a hour and a 1/2 driving around and then found out the old head was warped? So I have no clue if the a** to do with the valve train issues that were having with the installs I believe a couple of the rocker retainers are tweaked bent out of shape so we are ordering new ones to see if that fixes it. I just didn't know if you knew what was going on or not and it's kind of hard To Guess without seeing it.
Hmm, that is a difficult problem. You only have on set of valvetrain parts, the new cylinder head came bare? If you can't try some others new parts seems like a good idea. Unless the cam has wiped lobes, the rocker bolts aren't tightening all the way, pushrods are uneven in length, some of the lifters are no good, or something similar you might need to take parts off and chase down where that space is coming from. Measure from the cylinder head to the top edge of a few lifters (not the cup) when that lifter is at the highest/lowest point in its travel. Double check the pushrod lengths and that you can push down on them to compress the lifter spring and have it move back up on its own. If everything checks out, seems like you are on the right track already with rocker arm geometry being the issue.
The blue? It is actually the blue paint/coating from the new servo cover o-ring that scraped off as it was installed. Sometimes the colored o-rings (especially the cheap ones) don't keep their color very well. Check it out on the close up shots a few seconds later.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects awesome. I mean I didn't see it again so I was hoping it wasn't the seal. Great job nonetheless. I'm building a 4l60 that can take some boost for a crapalier my kids and I are building.
Fuzzy Dice Projects I got a old ass truck an I wanna put the pressure gauge on there 24/7 just gotta figure out where and how to put it in the truck with out cuttin etc too much in the ol heavy Chevy she’s a 04 1500 z71 lt
Just make sure whatever line or hose you use will survive lots of vibration, heat, and up to 300 PSI of pressure if you aren't using an electric sender setup. The hose that comes with the Harbor Freight oil pressure testing kit is decent and cheap, but I wouldn't trust it not to leak on a permanent install.
Trust me, we have been busy with life and other car projects and this video series has been taking us away from that because it took a VERY long time to edit. It wasn't that we were waiting to upload this, it took four months of work to make it!
Then you're relying on the weld to be completely sealed (which is why it leaked through the weld around the washer), which is tough to do, certainly with flux core wire. Plus it makes it harder to move around if the bottom of the transmission pan isn't flat. Have "fixed" stripped threads on an oil pan by welding a nut on though, with a little JB weld on the weld area to seal it.
Then I like the video but I didn't like that extra drain bolt you put in there it would be a shame to have rebuilt that in transmission just to run out of oil
You have seen these transmission videos before? Unless you have been seeing into the future I absolutely assure you that you have not. I did rebuild the 700R4 in the S10 Blazer a while back in one episode of that series, and very brief (a few seconds) clips of this rebuild have been in other videos (the "upcoming" video, earlier episodes in this Silverado series) but that is all. As of now, none of the automotive videos on this channel have been removed or uploaded/published more than one time.
Nothing! The problem was with the transfer case, the transmission rebuild was really just a refresh while everything was out and done for the sake of making these videos. I had the parts ready to rebuild it before I realized it wasn't the actual problem.
Finally, we did it! This 4L60E rebuild series is finally over. Some fun stats:
-Five episodes (Ep.3-8) uploaded over five weeks
-Final project size of 104GB and length of 2:08.13
-Cut from 2TB of video files, pictures, and various media
-A total of 16:27.12 of voiceover recordings
-165 days from when transmission disassembly was started to when this episode was uploaded
This was the single biggest project we have undertaken thus far. Not the rebuild itself, but this video series! We sincerely hope everyone has enjoyed it and/or found it helpful! Despite the transmission being back together, the problems with the truck really haven't been fixed. We will be taking the next week off to catch up on editing other videos, and plan to get one episode of another series uploaded on December 7th. After that, we will come back to this truck and spend an episode or two rebuilding the transfer case before actually putting it all back together.
Your rebuild series are the best! Very thorough and well put toghether. And there's something very soothing in your voiceovers. Thanks for the great videos, and keep em coming!
Your level of detail is impressive. Did you know how to do this or did you learn as you went?
@@jeffr0 I rebuilt the 700R4 in the S10 Blazer last year, that was my first trans rebuild and since they are extremely similar to the 4L60E I'd say I pretty much knew how to get it done before starting this rebuild. Glad you enjoyed the detailed videos!
@@jeffr0 There is much more to a rebuild than is shown here. This covered the basics. Lots of things were overlooked here that could cause a problem once re-installed in the vehicle.
I always had respect for mechanics which grew more when I started working on my project car. Now after watching this rebuild series I have to say people who work on transmissions must be gods. I always heard that transmission work can be difficult but I never realized how difficult until now.
Thank you for sharing your experiences with working on your vehicles. I think your videos have more information than most tv series dealing with working on cars. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
One of the most polished and most helpful video for rebuilding the 4l60e on RUclips great job !
great series about a transmission rebuild. probably the most in-depth one yet. great job
Your transmission series has help me rebuild two transmission I'm about to put the pa. On the second one while awaiting a acc piston. Thanks man semper fi,
4:48 damn will I ever be held as gently and lovingly as that case
To get the reverse drum on the input drum use your palms on both sides of the drum and alternate them back and forth like you're starting a fire. The constant back and forth motion will shake the clutches into place and it will start dropping down when the splines start lining up.
The separator plate also has 2 line up holes. I use bolts for this, but the first one is one of the shortest bolts in the top left hand corner, and the other uses a long bolt and the hole is the top pressure switch hole closest to the pump. You can also gel the checkballs into the VB instead of laying them on the plate.
Ah, makes sense, thanks for the tips! I had searched around for info on that but it is a difficult thing to Google and came up empty-handed.
Just like building things with Lego.... Following your instruction I'm going to attempt re-building my own. I've got a 2004 Chevy Express Van with the same transmission.
You make all these high skill level operations look way to easy.
Cant wait to see the carnage inside the tcase
Great Video. Instead of cutting a drain hole in the pan I have a mity vac fluid evacuator that holds around 6 quarts. I put the tube down the dipstick and suck all the fluid I can and the pan does not rain down. Nice thing is 1 evacuator for all vehicles vs needing a drain in each one. I also use it to drain down master cylinders to put all new fluid in before bleeding brakes. Great to adjusting oil levels if you ever overfill an oil change. PS fluid changes with it work well too. Thanks for the video.
Boats with inboard engines use something similar. Kind of hard to put a drain pan under the engine doing oil changes. I just thought about something--I wonder if boat motors that use car type engines even have oil pans with drain plugs? Vibration issues could cause them to come loose, making a mess down there, or even worse, engine damage, due to oil loss... lol
This is my first transmission build and found an easy way to marry the input drum and reverse input drum. Took 30 seconds. I put a dab of Super lube on the washer and thrut bearing to secure them. Reverse drum sitting on a chair with a hole in it. Aligned clutch teeth with a screwdriver. Put input shaft into reverse drum and shaft goes through hole in chair. Gently wiggled until 2nd shaft seal was exposed.
Awesome series! I watched every second of it. Much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this series! Its amazing and i can't wait for the transfer case series.
Im really enjoying your video series. Please keep up the great work. I would really love to see some new videos of the S10 Blazer. Greetings from Germany to the USA :)
Hey man thank you so much for these videos. Rebuilt the trans in my 96 k1500 following your videos. Got installed today and everything works great so way. Thanks again . Love your channel 🤘🏻
You always do a great job with your camera angles
Hardest rebuild is the transmission you make it look easy great job
This is something I’d never attempt so it’s been awesome seeing this build, Great job 👍. I’m looking forward to the Transfer case rebuild.
Wow, great videos. Thank you for doing these!
Great video, I’m really glad I watched this. I was having trouble getting my transmission together, late last night. I’m gonna make that little 2x4 stand, and I didn’t know how careful / how important those Teflon seals are in the pump. Thanks man hopefully this goes smooth for me today
Watch James video too
thatt really good
Almost thought this build was done happy to see more up and coming vids. Keep up the good work
I like your Videos so much man! Its very intressting and nice to watch.
Greatings from Munich!
You make it look so simple
When I rebuilt my 700r4, to get the clutches to line up, I would slowly turn it, and shake it around softly enough to not bend anything.
Sounds about right, I remember trying that when I rebuilt that last 700R4 but I couldn't remember how I got it together in the end. Thanks!
Yeah, leaving some fluid in the bottom of the pan is because of the height of the nut is kind of irrelevant. If youre draining to take the pan off youre going to get that out later and if youre just draining to refill the little bit left in the pan is nothing compared to the gallon or more left in the rest of the system.
I've only rebuilt 2 of these & had zero trouble with the reverse input drum going on.
So much work
So many parts, oh my god!
I'll never complain about the price of a transmission rebuild anymore.
bdpa kaknox lol exactly
Nice series, I can't wait for the transfer case rebuild as mine is also shady af.
Putting together a transmission sure seems like a slippery job
Thanks for the series. I think I'll put some money up for a new genuine GM transmission. After seeing what's involved, I wouldn't do this myself or trust a shop
i hope u see this comment my name is david lutgendorf and i'm a big fan of u and my dad past away over the summer and he was a macanic like u kinda and like fixing and taking a part moters i miss him but i know u won't see this but if u do sorry for ranting
Very sorry to hear that! If you are interested in these videos you must be interested in some of the same things your father was into, I have found that sharing those interests and moving forward is a great way to honor passed on loved ones without forgetting them. Can help to connect with memories and feel in touch with them through experiencing some of the same things they did. Sorry for your loss!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects thank you and I am interested in the same things as my dad was
@@FuzzyDiceProjects can u subscribe to my channel please
I did a 700R4 rebuild for a family member a few years ago during winter. Even though I had a manual for the transmission I somehow ending up installing the sprag in backwards. This resulted in the truck being in a Drive scenario at all times. Sucked to find out after it was all installed.
Ouch! Sorry to hear that, really frustrating stuff. With all of the parts and work to deal with, it is a very understandable mistake to make.
Why didn't you just weld a castle nut to the bottom of the pan? then the oil could flow though the castle part of the nut and most of the oil would drain out then and you would still get a flat surface so that tightening the drain plug wouldn't dis-form the pan.
Love the vids man and the flip flops lol
This is cool
waiting to see the inside of the transfer case.
Amazing video, congrats...
WOW, that's alot of crap in that bag, LOL. You think it will work the first time in the truck? Great details in the video though.Loved all 8 of them.
I already know whether it will work or not so I guess I can't speculate on that haha! Thanks for the kind words!
"Transmission fluid isn't cheap but I am!" That was hilarious. Can't wait for the transfer case. Although I'll never rebuild an automatic (some black magic stuff in those things) I do want to have a go at my jeeps transfer case!
And to elaborate more on filtering that fluid. Do you think it would actually work? I'm going to be replacing the valve body gasket on a friends Ford ranger (about as far as I dare to go) and he doesn't want to buy more fluid again. We just took it apart a few months ago for a shift solenoid replacement which didn't fix the shifting issue so the valve body gasket is the next stop. We refilled about 6 bottles of Mercon V and it wasn't cheap. Like 54 bucks. So if we filtered what we drained since its fairly new, do you think it would hurt anything to reuse the fluid?
Thanks in advance. Love your videos. Been hooked since the first S10 episode.
I wouldn't worry about it unless the fluid was old anyway or there was significant contamination (ex. coolant, friction material, metal). Don't use a grimy old filter, of course, but a new/low mileage one with some low mileage fluid shouldn't hurt anything, and is a little extra insurance from any debris that may fall in the drain pan. The fluid the clutch frictions soaked in that I filtered didn't come out as red as new fluid, but it did lighten it up. Have done the same filtering thing to refill transmissions after a non-fluid change related transmission pan drop as well.
Best bet would be new fluid, but for "good enough" filtering slightly used ATF should be fine. Thanks for the kind works, and good luck with that valve body gasket!
I’ve been enjoying this series, I own a similar truck, a 2012 SCLB 4.8 4x4. What fluid do you recommend for these?
I usually stay with Valvoline, though I'm sure any brand is fine. But I'd strongly recommend running full synthetic for LS trucks and other recent models. They tend to run pretty hot unless they have an auxiliary transmission cooler, hot enough to eventually cook conventional oils. My understanding is that conventional oils start to break down above 230 degrees F, but synthetics are good to 270 degrees F (not that you ever want to see the trans get that hot).
@@FuzzyDiceProjects 180 is tops, if u wanna give a good long life for all the internal components. One of my trucks has 600.000 miles, and tranny was rebuild only once at 300+ k miles
So is this now your full time occupation? And is this your primary field or do you do something else? I truly enjoy these videos and am always looking forward to the next. The outtakes always make my day as well, thanks for sharing all of this...
At the moment it is my primary income, but the earnings are relatively unpredictable so it's not a good idea to rely on it for too much longer. Glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for your support!
4:16 older models don’t have that bearing. It took looking for it on eBay to find that out
There’s a copper thing that goes in its place. 00+ have bearings
It seems like if you welded the nut on the bottom of the pan all the way around, cleaned the slag and went over it to ensure a seamless weld then you would be able to drain all the fluid no prob. To make sure there is no leak with the bolt threaded in you could use those rubber drain bolt seals that you sometimes see on oil drain bolts. Would that work you think?
Welding to the bottom of the pan is tricky, using shielding gas would definitely increase the odds of a clean weld, as would several passes. The weld around the washer was flux core and two passes, but obviously still had a pinhole somewhere hard to see. Welding the nut on the inside of the pan flat to the surface as I had done in the past is what I will be continuing to do in the future.
Fuzzy Dice Projects sounds good. My OCD definitely hates the idea of not getting all of the fluid out LOL. But in reality I don’t think it matters much. Especially if you are keeping it changed at proper intervals.
@@RoosterSpur Well if you are dropping the pan to change the filter which should typically be done every time the fluid is changed, all of the fluid in the pan can be emptied anyway, it just means a little care must be taken not to completely tip the pan over when removing it in order to not make a mess. A standard pan-drop fluid change will only get around 5 quarts out, leaving 7 quarts in the torque converter and transmission though.
I still don’t get this, it’s just circles and magic red juice.
How?
1st things 1st your a smart guy! I Have a question concerning the Jeep Cherokee project you do with your friend I know this isn't the video but I still have a question about it . Do you have to have cylinder one at top dead center when you're Installing push rods and rockers? Because my buddy just bought a new head for his Cherokee and it's the right head and when we put all the push rods and lifters in they looked fine and then when we installed the rockers they were Kocked to the left of the center of the valve top?
I'm not sure what you mean, I think this is a typo: "when we installed the rockers they were Kok"
It shouldn't matter how the crankshaft is positioned since the rockers on an inline six Jeep 4.0L are non-adjustable (to the best of my knowledge) and the hydraulic lifters will collapse if they need to as the bolts are tightened. Are all of the pushrods still in place on the lifters and in place on the rockers? If it is a really high-mileage or gunky engine it is possible that some of the lifters are sticky and not raising up without oil pressure to assist them. Was it particularly "ticky" before the cylinder head replacement?
@@FuzzyDiceProjects sorry about the typo. I fixed that and no he just rebuilt the 4.0 new crank, oversized pistons and new lifters pushrods head and rockers. That's why I can't figure out when I installed the head and pushrods 10 of the 12 rockers after torqued down they were seated on the valves properly, except 3 of them they had play in them and when tighting them down they "kocked over to a 9:00 position. With the old head they had ran all the new parts for about a hour and a 1/2 driving around and then found out the old head was warped? So I have no clue if the a** to do with the valve train issues that were having with the installs I believe a couple of the rocker retainers are tweaked bent out of shape so we are ordering new ones to see if that fixes it. I just didn't know if you knew what was going on or not and it's kind of hard To Guess without seeing it.
Hmm, that is a difficult problem. You only have on set of valvetrain parts, the new cylinder head came bare? If you can't try some others new parts seems like a good idea. Unless the cam has wiped lobes, the rocker bolts aren't tightening all the way, pushrods are uneven in length, some of the lifters are no good, or something similar you might need to take parts off and chase down where that space is coming from. Measure from the cylinder head to the top edge of a few lifters (not the cup) when that lifter is at the highest/lowest point in its travel. Double check the pushrod lengths and that you can push down on them to compress the lifter spring and have it move back up on its own. If everything checks out, seems like you are on the right track already with rocker arm geometry being the issue.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects will do thanks!
I think might know what wrong with the transfer case because my mom 2006 Ford Explorer had the same problem
Transfer case next please
!!!
Man it comes s much much complicates you are like a watch Maker.
What brand rebuild kit did u use ?
Yey
Did I see the 3-4 servo o ring when you were putting in the snap ring in?
The blue? It is actually the blue paint/coating from the new servo cover o-ring that scraped off as it was installed. Sometimes the colored o-rings (especially the cheap ones) don't keep their color very well. Check it out on the close up shots a few seconds later.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects awesome. I mean I didn't see it again so I was hoping it wasn't the seal. Great job nonetheless. I'm building a 4l60 that can take some boost for a crapalier my kids and I are building.
Fuzzy, will you be my Dad?
Why not leave the oil pressure gauge hooked up and run it into the cab Incase something happens going down the road like a month later
Wouldn't be a bad idea to set up a permanent trans pressure gauge in the cab, but it isn't in the cards to make that happen at the moment!
Fuzzy Dice Projects I got a old ass truck an I wanna put the pressure gauge on there 24/7 just gotta figure out where and how to put it in the truck with out cuttin etc too much in the ol heavy Chevy she’s a 04 1500 z71 lt
Just make sure whatever line or hose you use will survive lots of vibration, heat, and up to 300 PSI of pressure if you aren't using an electric sender setup. The hose that comes with the Harbor Freight oil pressure testing kit is decent and cheap, but I wouldn't trust it not to leak on a permanent install.
Why did you wait almost 4 months to show us
Trust me, we have been busy with life and other car projects and this video series has been taking us away from that because it took a VERY long time to edit. It wasn't that we were waiting to upload this, it took four months of work to make it!
I’m thinking it would be easier to just drive a manual trans..
Why don't you just weld the nut for the drain plug on the outside of the oil pan?🤔
Then you're relying on the weld to be completely sealed (which is why it leaked through the weld around the washer), which is tough to do, certainly with flux core wire. Plus it makes it harder to move around if the bottom of the transmission pan isn't flat. Have "fixed" stripped threads on an oil pan by welding a nut on though, with a little JB weld on the weld area to seal it.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Ah, i see. I guess one could try sealing the weld from the inside with JB Weld, but who knows how that's gonna turn out.
Then I like the video but I didn't like that extra drain bolt you put in there it would be a shame to have rebuilt that in transmission just to run out of oil
Well done. Very time consuming.
did he forget the Gasket
You forgot to add oil.
gmc transmission i thought this was a chevy truck transmission
Same thing... smh
Why are you showing old videos and saying they're new
What do you mean? I assure you, editing on this video was finished just a few hours before it went up and the content had never been uploaded before.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects so many of the videos you been posting I have seen months and months ago
You have seen these transmission videos before? Unless you have been seeing into the future I absolutely assure you that you have not. I did rebuild the 700R4 in the S10 Blazer a while back in one episode of that series, and very brief (a few seconds) clips of this rebuild have been in other videos (the "upcoming" video, earlier episodes in this Silverado series) but that is all. As of now, none of the automotive videos on this channel have been removed or uploaded/published more than one time.
I normally never get like mind phucked but transmissions... 🤦🏾♂️
your videos are super awesome. always insightful.
So what was wrong with the transmission in the first place?
Nothing! The problem was with the transfer case, the transmission rebuild was really just a refresh while everything was out and done for the sake of making these videos. I had the parts ready to rebuild it before I realized it wasn't the actual problem.