Would advise you with Tesla Lithium or any Lithium that you use a fuse with a very high AIC rating such as a Class-T fuse or a MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse). Lithium batteries exhibit very low resistance, and thus can produce a lot of current instantaneously. You don't want that fuse to melt and create a short circuit. Major fire risk! That ANL fuse is also a cheap aftermarket.
Thank you for discussing the marine wire. There are currently no electrical codes for rv use and the rv "industry standard" is to use house wiring which as you state is very dangerous. Single strand wire under vibration will break and can cause fires. I don't think soldering your battery cables is recommended as solder tends to crack under vibration. Proper crimping will not allow that to happen. Another thought is when you have the system up and running if you put it under the heaviest load you will have on it, you can use a info-red digital thermometer to ck each and every electrical connection to be sure there are no lose connections. I actually do this every 3-6 months just as an additional safety measure.
Yeah I see a lot of vans with Romex run in them and it makes me cringe. I agree with crimping too. A good crimp that is sealed with good heat shrink is just as good of a conductor as a solid solder joint. Checking the temperatures of the connections is a great idea.
@@goldenadvantures2573 Sadly I literally just watched another video of a schoolie being wired by a licensed electrician using Romex. I've given up commenting.
How about a link for the wire you purchased, if possible? For as many van builds I have watched, this is the first video that I have heard stranded v solid wire discussed.
This is where I ordered the 16 gauge two conductor and the 12 gauge three conductor. www.wireandcableyourway.com/marine-wire-tinned/ All of the rest of my wiring came from prowireusa.com//c-15-wire-cable-.aspx
Another question, where did you get the BMS and would it be possible to get both the battery and the BMS wiring plugs and build a pigtail that would allow you to plug/unplug the BMS.
The BMS is a venom balancer purchased from venom's website and for the wiring I bought a 6s extension and cut off one end and soldered it to the Tesla wiring that already existed.
Hello, I also have a Tesla system in my Sprinter but I use the Victeon 24v to 12v converter bcs it goes down to 18v, the converter you are using has specs showing Input Voltage: 21-35VDC what happens when your Tesla goes down to 20v? Does the converter stop working? Ty
The inverter charger does stop working and you must rely on the solar charger or alternator charger to bring it back up to the required voltage. It’ll then start working again.
So far it's doing really well. It'll run our AC for about two hours if it's not crazy hot outside and with the amount of solar and alternator charging we've got we've never had it below 50% charge. I've got it set to only charge to 24v instead of 25v in order to get more charge cycles out of it too so we could increase the storage capacity in it if we really needed to. We've been running it for about two months now and having another one would be nice like in the desert in the summer but where the weather is nice one is plenty for us.
Fur & Fam that’s awesome thanks for that. We also have one in our van. Am stil converting it. Nothing really would be a big drain to the system. The only thing would be if we both get electric scooters and want to charge it then maybe having an extra Tesla battery would be nice ☺️
Glad to see others are using the recycled batteries instead of buying new ones! The two biggest consumers in our van are the AC and hot water heater and even with that we're good with one module. Charging scooter batteries would be a pretty big drain on it though
I would like to second the comment concerning crimping terminals. Something to keep in mind is the importance of using a proper crimping tool. Generally, people who have problems or do not like crimps have not used a "proper" tool made by the same firm that made the terminals. In an ideal world, you would use a 3M tool for 3M terminals, and Ancho tool for Anchor connectors, etc. Given what everything else is costing, spending $200 to $400 on a proper crimping tool does not seem so bad. With luck, you could borrow or rent one.
Good crimping tools are most definitely worth the money. I do a lot of wiring in the marine industry and agree 100 percent that using the tools designed for the terminals or connectors you're using is imperative.
@@goldenadvantures2573 I used the exact same marine wire that you used. Other than that most all my components are different than yours. The Tesla model 3 battery module weighed 250 pounds which required 4 people to lift into the van. LOL
@@goldenadvantures2573 The Tesla Model 3 battery is the house battery only. The house battery can be charged at standard EV charging stations. I am contemplating stealth camping at EV charging stations and camp overnight while charging with my J1772 socket. My diesel Sprinter gets 25MPG; one of the the most fuel-efficient Sprinter builds on the road. My next project will be an all-electric van when they come in financial reach and get at least 200 miles per charge. Talk about an exciting, fossil-fuel-free future where you’ll have a 100KWH main battery. Talk about unlimited climate control and cooking. The only question is how to maximize solar charging: a van covered in solar panels?
I love the concept of being able to charge at EV stations. People always ask if we can do that with ours. It won’t be long and there will be a van skateboard developed by Ford and Rivian. It’s definitely an exciting possibility!
Would advise you with Tesla Lithium or any Lithium that you use a fuse with a very high AIC rating such as a Class-T fuse or a MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse). Lithium batteries exhibit very low resistance, and thus can produce a lot of current instantaneously. You don't want that fuse to melt and create a short circuit. Major fire risk! That ANL fuse is also a cheap aftermarket.
I agree with you! I ended up swapping out the fuses for class t fuses.
Thank you for discussing the marine wire. There are currently no electrical codes for rv use and the rv "industry standard" is to use house wiring which as you state is very dangerous. Single strand wire under vibration will break and can cause fires. I don't think soldering your battery cables is recommended as solder tends to crack under vibration. Proper crimping will not allow that to happen. Another thought is when you have the system up and running if you put it under the heaviest load you will have on it, you can use a info-red digital thermometer to ck each and every electrical connection to be sure there are no lose connections. I actually do this every 3-6 months just as an additional safety measure.
Yeah I see a lot of vans with Romex run in them and it makes me cringe. I agree with crimping too. A good crimp that is sealed with good heat shrink is just as good of a conductor as a solid solder joint. Checking the temperatures of the connections is a great idea.
@@goldenadvantures2573 Sadly I literally just watched another video of a schoolie being wired by a licensed electrician using Romex. I've given up commenting.
I guess RV wiring isn't part of the course to become licensed. Hopefully it doesn't cause anyone to get hurt.
Is there a video of the dc/dc charger install?!
We didn’t show that part exactly in the build videos. Do you have any particular questions on the install? We’ll try to help out in any way possible!
How about a link for the wire you purchased, if possible? For as many van builds I have watched, this is the first video that I have heard stranded v solid wire discussed.
This is where I ordered the 16 gauge two conductor and the 12 gauge three conductor. www.wireandcableyourway.com/marine-wire-tinned/
All of the rest of my wiring came from prowireusa.com//c-15-wire-cable-.aspx
How is tge tesla battery holding up... have u notice any battery degradation ???
We sold the van over two years ago but the new owner hasn’t mentioned any issues with it.
Another question, where did you get the BMS and would it be possible to get both the battery and the BMS wiring plugs and build a pigtail that would allow you to plug/unplug the BMS.
The BMS is a venom balancer purchased from venom's website and for the wiring I bought a 6s extension and cut off one end and soldered it to the Tesla wiring that already existed.
Hello, I also have a Tesla system in my Sprinter but I use the Victeon 24v to 12v converter bcs it goes down to 18v, the converter you are using has specs showing Input Voltage: 21-35VDC what happens when your Tesla goes down to 20v? Does the converter stop working?
Ty
The inverter charger does stop working and you must rely on the solar charger or alternator charger to bring it back up to the required voltage. It’ll then start working again.
How is the Tesla battery holding up? Is that one battery enough for you or would you be buying another one?
So far it's doing really well. It'll run our AC for about two hours if it's not crazy hot outside and with the amount of solar and alternator charging we've got we've never had it below 50% charge. I've got it set to only charge to 24v instead of 25v in order to get more charge cycles out of it too so we could increase the storage capacity in it if we really needed to. We've been running it for about two months now and having another one would be nice like in the desert in the summer but where the weather is nice one is plenty for us.
Fur & Fam that’s awesome thanks for that. We also have one in our van. Am stil converting it. Nothing really would be a big drain to the system. The only thing would be if we both get electric scooters and want to charge it then maybe having an extra Tesla battery would be nice ☺️
Glad to see others are using the recycled batteries instead of buying new ones! The two biggest consumers in our van are the AC and hot water heater and even with that we're good with one module. Charging scooter batteries would be a pretty big drain on it though
I would like to second the comment concerning crimping terminals. Something to keep in mind is the importance of using a proper crimping tool. Generally, people who have problems or do not like crimps have not used a "proper" tool made by the same firm that made the terminals. In an ideal world, you would use a 3M tool for 3M terminals, and Ancho tool for Anchor connectors, etc.
Given what everything else is costing, spending $200 to $400 on a proper crimping tool does not seem so bad. With luck, you could borrow or rent one.
Good crimping tools are most definitely worth the money. I do a lot of wiring in the marine industry and agree 100 percent that using the tools designed for the terminals or connectors you're using is imperative.
See my Tesla Model 3 battery van build at @R0Io
I’ll have to check it out! Did you use a lot of the same components?
@@goldenadvantures2573 I used the exact same marine wire that you used. Other than that most all my components are different than yours. The Tesla model 3 battery module weighed 250 pounds which required 4 people to lift into the van. LOL
Wow so is your van also an ev or is that just for day to day power? I would imagine with that much weight It packs quite a lot of power.
@@goldenadvantures2573 The Tesla Model 3 battery is the house battery only. The house battery can be charged at standard EV charging stations. I am contemplating stealth camping at EV charging stations and camp overnight while charging with my J1772 socket. My diesel Sprinter gets 25MPG; one of the the most fuel-efficient Sprinter builds on the road. My next project will be an all-electric van when they come in financial reach and get at least 200 miles per charge. Talk about an exciting, fossil-fuel-free future where you’ll have a 100KWH main battery. Talk about unlimited climate control and cooking. The only question is how to maximize solar charging: a van covered in solar panels?
I love the concept of being able to charge at EV stations. People always ask if we can do that with ours. It won’t be long and there will be a van skateboard developed by Ford and Rivian. It’s definitely an exciting possibility!