Rose series FINALE - Using rose in perfumes
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
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My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Watch the rest of the series:
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Books referenced in this series:
Scent & Chemistry: amzn.to/3udnRhU (new edition available for pre-order: amzn.to/3bMBz54)
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin: cutt.ly/KSFE2iK
Book on terpenes: cutt.ly/CSFzo1Y
Arctander's book: amzn.to/3uNIHGY
Book used for accords (An Introduction to Perfumery): amzn.to/3DssCKN
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Outro music is my own
I can’t tell you how much I’ve gained from this series, thank you. Definitely hope you’ll explore other notes in this much depth if you can.
Fantastic - really glad you enjoyed it! Not sure if I’ll do something similar in the future, maybe!
Exceptional channel for perfume beginners, tjank you Sam
Thank you!
Love to see this video. Congrats on the series! Cheers.
Thank you!
bring this app to android! thanks for amazing series
Thank you! And I’m looking into it 😊
Raspberry ketone's odour characteristics are not at all subtle. It is a medium-impact aroma chemical and its odour is easy for anyone to detect. Perfumers World says: "sweet berry jam raspberry woody and ripe with floral nuance fruity sweet raspberry powdery vanilla." There's no olfactory fatigue, either. You may have obtained an example that is not fresh or possibly another material altogether.
It’s possible that my sample was bad, although I’m not sure, since I have two separate samples. It’s common that some individuals can smell certain raw materials fine and others have trouble. It’s down to the fact that everyone’s nose is different. I have researched and it seems common with raspberry ketone
I'm certain it's a personal thing - most likely the genetics. I've made some tests with the sample of Raspberry Ketone that I have. I can barely smell it but tested it in the composition on friends. It was AB-test (A - a composition without RK and B - a composition with RK) they could easily tell the difference while I had problem with telling them apart.
Also I've made once another test. One friend asked me to bring some ACs that she wanted to smell, so I took some 10% bottles of many "easy" things including Coumarin and Vanillin. So more people came around, I put the ACs on the strips and I started a survey: tell me what do you smell? And some people when picking 10% Coumarin were - "Oh, it's sweet, hay like, what's that?" and some were saying "Can't smell anything". The same was with 10% Vanillin - some people said instantly "vanilla", and some people couldn't smell much. I've surveyed too few people, but the pattern was forming for either the ability to smell Coumarin or Vanillin.
I wonder how many things I can't smell, and how my compositions are skewed. That's why the "field tests" are often so important.
Really good learning experience. Thank you.
Thanks!
I may have missed it, but did you try adding labdanum to your rose accord at all? I just read on basenotes that adding it "brought it closer to the feeling of the absolute".
Just put some on 2 test strips and smelled side by side and it does. The labdanum barely dipped in at 10% and then I just used rose givco and IMO brought it a lot closer to the rose trilogy absolute i have from Eden botanicals. Wow. I see why you love labdanum now
No, I didn’t try it (I almost did haha but I wanted to stick to 5 trials for the video). Thanks for the tip though, I can imagine it 😀
Oh wow I never thought to do this. This is a great idea actually. Rose trilogy is a beautiful rose absolute
Raspberry Ketone is a trip. I thinks it’s very unstable like a ionone. I had the same thing happen when I used it in a rose accord. I could barely smell it. Fast forward 2 months I smell tested that batch and it was pretty much all raspberry very little rose. It’s mutated and took over 😂
Interesting 🤔
Super interesting! Loved the series. Chypre coming up some time I guess? It would be cool seeing you explore it :)
Yeah, it’s on the list!
thank a lot
😀
Fantastic series. Thanks so much!
Thank you!
Hi Sam, I would like to ask you how I can calculate ifra in my formula. Thank you very much for all your videos and keep it up
Formulair helps out since the entry shows in red if the limit is breached. Ultimately though, you need to check each component doesn’t go above the limits published on the IFRA website according to their guidelines.
Once again request to please develop Android version. Tx
It’s on my radar
⚘️
I think you are using to much alcohol and alcohol is the first thing that triggers nose fatigue. That is what I've heard, that you can smell things the whole day but if you are using alcohol you will have problems with olfactory fatigue because alcohol is irritating your nose. That is what I've been told and I think that's logical
Alcohol evaporates in a few minutes on the scent strip. By the time you smell it, the alcohol is gone.
Hey Sam what's your Raspberry Ketone dilution? I had mine at 5% and couldn't smell it, now I have at 0,5% and it's still strong for me. And all this considering you have a lower smell threshold than me (from seeing you using in your videos dilutions like 1% very often). In the past I've made a composition where I used raspberry ketone very liberately and felt it very weakly, where others not involved in perfumery were describing the composition as totally candy, sweet, pink and fruity, without any other facets. I was in total shock. Maybe that's an instant olfactory fatigue?
Very interesting thoughts. In this video, I used the 1% dilution, meaning it ended up at 0.5%. I have made dilutions all the way down to 0.01% however and still it didn’t become apparent. I was hoping, exactly like you said, that a super low dilution might fix it. I will have to to some more experiments with it, thank you for the reference though, maybe I should try something like 0.1% in a final perfume.
@@sammacer It's a weird AC for me - more belonging to the family of Veramoss, Vanillin, and somewhat Ethyl Maltol. You can see some similarities in the structure. I occasionally have problems of adjusting the dose of those mentioned above as well. From what I read it's a thing for some perfumers.
It's been standing on my shelf for a quite a while, then I overdosed it in 2 compositions and got feedback from several people that these perfumes are too sweet for their liking. I tracked it down to this AC and that got me thinking: Why untrained sense of smell is able to smell it way stronger?
For me when it's overdosed it often smells like a flattened, hole near mid-top of the composition. I often know what it does rather than being sure I could smell it, so for instance I want "fougere to be sweetened and smoothed around mid notes" I just add "a trace amount/one or two drops of highly diluted" to the finished composition as an afterthought. And surprisingly people perceive it as I intended "yeah, that's more smooth and sweet than the previous one", and sometimes it happens I get a whiff of it as well. The craziest thing about Raspberry Ketone is that it's easier for me to smell the threading of the closed bottle of this AC rather than the contents of the bottle. I need also experiment with freezing it as well and then smelling or mixing with something sharp like Dihydromyrcenol, or something of diffusive "in different way, but of the same fleeting character" like Berryflor or Hedione or some musks.