Sometimes these are the best videos because I swear this mimics exactly what would happen to me! To be honest this is actually more helpful than if everything went smoothly and I appreciate your thoroughness!
Awesome video, thanks for posting. I am in the midst of the same problem and thus far have cut he control arm off of the bushing with an angle grinder, then cut off the bolt between the bushing and the frame/captive nut and got the bushing and stub of the control arm out. Today will start drilling the stub of the bolt that is left and try to get it out, then clean up the threads and put the new bolt and control arm in. In order to get clear access to the bushing/bolt complex I removed the brake caliper, spindle, strut, and axle. Quite a flog!
What did you wind up doing? I'm planning a few different routes and see the captive nut is most like 13x1.50 and not like my typical 12x1.50 tap I do have. Was thinking leaving a little less than half the bolt sticking out and using an oscillating tool maybe so I don't have to weld later, cut a little more than half the arm piece and bolt to pull out and be able to slide forward and pull out the rest of the bushing and arm piece. That'd leave enough bolt to hit with penerant, maybe brake cleaner if the red loctites and thing and heat with a vice grip to work out. Want to just drill, though that nut thread is not typical. Albeit, can drill or cut out access to that nut, remove and weld in a new one in the most time consuming worse situation plan.
@@jafinch78 Hello! I had good luck drilling out the stub of the bolt that was seized in the captive nut. I started with a small drill, maybe 5/32 with a long shank and spent time getting it centered. The drilling was difficult, the bolt is a very hard steel as you would suspect. I used a large power drill and kept the drill bit wet with cutting oil. I used a set of cobalt drill bits from Harbor Freight and went up in size in very small increments. I used high pressure on the drill and very low speed. The drill would catch and flip out of my hand repeatedly so I had to be super careful. It took days. On the final drill bit size the remnant of the bolt and threads just fell out inside and I fished them out of the space with the captive nut so they wouldn't rattle around in there. It was a perfect success. The threads are M14 x 1.5, I bought a tap but they were perfect and didn't need any cutting or repair. I put in a new OEM bolt and am on my way!
@@MrBobsVids Ah, so is a M14x1.5? I don't have a M14x1.5 tap or die and measuring with the caliper, looked like those bolts are all 13mm diameter to me. Thankfully I grabbed an extra set with the nut, though wishing I grabbed another nut for the worse situation method. Good to know and seems like a tight fit to drill straight, that has me concerned as well. Thanks for your time, feedback and insight. I appreciate that. Kind Regards, In Christ.
@@MrBobsVids Awesome, thanks for checking. I didn't know. Reading online, diameter is noted as 14mm. Maybe the bolt I'm measuring is worn 1mm to 13mm. When I get back in the shop, I'll measure the threads diameter as well, though seemed the same. Thinking I'll order a M14x1.5 tap and die now so I have to chase threads at the least since they're the same used on both the prius I own, gen2 and gen3.
I'm fearing the same in SW Michigan. Just realized the bolt is some sort of odd 13mm x 1.5 bolt and not a 12mm x 1.50 bolt. Therefore, one of my worse situation plan of having to drill out and tap isn't going to happen unless I find a tap. Therefore, looks like worse situation will be cut or hole saw an access to the captive nut and remove that, then weld in another. Then weld the hole saw cutout material back in maybe with some rod as filler material. Man, something else. Hoping the Milwaukee 1400 nut busting removes. Might be able to cut up the control arm section in little more than half and slide the rest of the control arm section off that size so only the bolt and captive nut are more accessible to heat and with a vise grip and leverage bar, work out. Might be an easier way, though would sacrifice a control arm that can have the bushings replaced. Trying to look at this from a few ways since my bolts are solid and not budging at all. I'm totally afraid I'm going to break off both heads or on the backside nut side with bolt. Seems that side can be cut out and using a jack with vice grip bolt, jack out once the head is broke or cut off. Though the side you broke the head off, man, that's going to be a little more tool planning before I start on if the impact doesn't remove with or without heat. Was hoping to just drill out, though I can't find a 13x1.50 tap yet if have to go that route.
If the bushings aren't too bad, might want to just leave it alone. You would need a full garage with cutting tools, welders, etc to get that out and fix the damage properly. Would almost be easier to support the motor and replace the whole dang subframe.
@@MIFixItDad Totally was my first though to replace the subframe. Then I was like nah, there's other ways. Found that the captive nuts and bolts are 14x1.50, so ordered a tap for the potential drill out and retap or at least chase the threads method. Yeah, my Dad left me a bunch of stuff and I know what to do. Had machine tool and welding in high school, so thoroughly qualified... uhm... after reviewing, researching and doing some test and practice before I go the later route. Ordered some carbide tipped tools and will head out to get cobalt drills if I need, though have hole saws, cut off discs and tools if needed. Whew! At least cooled down nice for today to get done before tomorrow and next day scorching predictions.
@@MIFixItDad Got it! Used the method shown in this video, How to remove seized rusted stuck lower control arm bolts Part 2 by YT channel DOSE OF FREEDOM, without heat, even though prepped to use the industrial heat gun if didn't. Only took maybe a minute and a half with the impact to break free going both directions this time with the best DeWalt 1200 lbs nut busting set on the 2 setting even. Though I literally hit the head of the bolt as well with the ball peens a few times as well in between the two attempts. Figure thought I started off on the 29th with Deep Creep and at the end of the day CRC red can brake cleaner and almost every day sprayed more Deep Creep on. Now to cut out that back ones bushing on the inside top since that's toast and ain't budging and that will be way easier and faster. Go figure, the not captive bolt is the one causing the most grief, albeit I didn't remove more to make more room. Still.
Weld a nut or spare socket on end of broken bolt and remove it with heat. Great job on drivers side. The toughest side. Always pre spray the night before with PB blaster.
At some point I might take it to a machine shop to try that. I don't have a welder or torch so not something I can do at home. I really would like to have that side replaced too. It bugs me knowing it's not.
Who'd you take it to in SW Michigan or elsewhere? Would be good to speak with them since I might wind up doing myself unless the price is right. I have all the tools to do, though rather and did get a few more just to see if comes out without breaking. Wishing I could afford to buy and return an Ingersall Rand 1600lbs torque battery impact. Was thinking maybe having someone who has mobile semitruck equipment come out and do, though I'll see what happens for now with what I own and have to work with. Thanks for sharing!
@@MIFixItDad I know right where that is. I'm over on the lakeshore and thinking I'll be able to get done here since have or ordered yesterday the rest of the tools I'll need as backup and return if I don't need.
I later took it to a shop that was able to cut it out and mount a new control arm. During the year I drove it that way it eventually popped out and put stress on the rear mount point and cracked the metal there. I had to have that welded up too. It's all good now though
@@MIFixItDad Awesome to read. Was thinking will be the worse situation route and plan. Do you know how they cut it out and what all they did welding wise? Thanks in advance for your time.
@@jafinch78 Basically all they did is finish cleaning up the torn metal, which wasn't a great deal to begin with, and took an oversized washer to weld in to replace the damaged area. They could have cut a piece of metal from stock, but luckily a nice hefty washer is basically a pre-cut, ready made patch. I've never had another bit of trouble from it.
@@MIFixItDad Thanks for the insight into what they did and who did. I'm going to get out and first do some back and forth impact motion for maybe 5 minutes or so and see what that gets me. Then heat the subframe just under the nut I think with a heat gun or maybe propane, though I'd rather not use flame. Maybe try to do the impact and deep creep back and forth for another 5 minutes and maybe repeat before I consider cutting anything. That's if nothing breaks.
Sometimes these are the best videos because I swear this mimics exactly what would happen to me! To be honest this is actually more helpful than if everything went smoothly and I appreciate your thoroughness!
Awesome video, thanks for posting. I am in the midst of the same problem and thus far have cut he control arm off of the bushing with an angle grinder, then cut off the bolt between the bushing and the frame/captive nut and got the bushing and stub of the control arm out. Today will start drilling the stub of the bolt that is left and try to get it out, then clean up the threads and put the new bolt and control arm in. In order to get clear access to the bushing/bolt complex I removed the brake caliper, spindle, strut, and axle. Quite a flog!
What did you wind up doing? I'm planning a few different routes and see the captive nut is most like 13x1.50 and not like my typical 12x1.50 tap I do have. Was thinking leaving a little less than half the bolt sticking out and using an oscillating tool maybe so I don't have to weld later, cut a little more than half the arm piece and bolt to pull out and be able to slide forward and pull out the rest of the bushing and arm piece. That'd leave enough bolt to hit with penerant, maybe brake cleaner if the red loctites and thing and heat with a vice grip to work out. Want to just drill, though that nut thread is not typical. Albeit, can drill or cut out access to that nut, remove and weld in a new one in the most time consuming worse situation plan.
@@jafinch78 Hello! I had good luck drilling out the stub of the bolt that was seized in the captive nut. I started with a small drill, maybe 5/32 with a long shank and spent time getting it centered. The drilling was difficult, the bolt is a very hard steel as you would suspect. I used a large power drill and kept the drill bit wet with cutting oil. I used a set of cobalt drill bits from Harbor Freight and went up in size in very small increments. I used high pressure on the drill and very low speed. The drill would catch and flip out of my hand repeatedly so I had to be super careful. It took days. On the final drill bit size the remnant of the bolt and threads just fell out inside and I fished them out of the space with the captive nut so they wouldn't rattle around in there. It was a perfect success. The threads are M14 x 1.5, I bought a tap but they were perfect and didn't need any cutting or repair. I put in a new OEM bolt and am on my way!
@@MrBobsVids Ah, so is a M14x1.5? I don't have a M14x1.5 tap or die and measuring with the caliper, looked like those bolts are all 13mm diameter to me. Thankfully I grabbed an extra set with the nut, though wishing I grabbed another nut for the worse situation method. Good to know and seems like a tight fit to drill straight, that has me concerned as well. Thanks for your time, feedback and insight. I appreciate that. Kind Regards, In Christ.
@@jafinch78 Yes M14x1.5, Amazon sent me one for $14, I just checked it on an extra nut that fits on an extra control arm bolt I have.
@@MrBobsVids Awesome, thanks for checking. I didn't know. Reading online, diameter is noted as 14mm. Maybe the bolt I'm measuring is worn 1mm to 13mm. When I get back in the shop, I'll measure the threads diameter as well, though seemed the same. Thinking I'll order a M14x1.5 tap and die now so I have to chase threads at the least since they're the same used on both the prius I own, gen2 and gen3.
I'm fearing the same in SW Michigan. Just realized the bolt is some sort of odd 13mm x 1.5 bolt and not a 12mm x 1.50 bolt. Therefore, one of my worse situation plan of having to drill out and tap isn't going to happen unless I find a tap. Therefore, looks like worse situation will be cut or hole saw an access to the captive nut and remove that, then weld in another. Then weld the hole saw cutout material back in maybe with some rod as filler material. Man, something else. Hoping the Milwaukee 1400 nut busting removes. Might be able to cut up the control arm section in little more than half and slide the rest of the control arm section off that size so only the bolt and captive nut are more accessible to heat and with a vise grip and leverage bar, work out. Might be an easier way, though would sacrifice a control arm that can have the bushings replaced. Trying to look at this from a few ways since my bolts are solid and not budging at all. I'm totally afraid I'm going to break off both heads or on the backside nut side with bolt. Seems that side can be cut out and using a jack with vice grip bolt, jack out once the head is broke or cut off. Though the side you broke the head off, man, that's going to be a little more tool planning before I start on if the impact doesn't remove with or without heat. Was hoping to just drill out, though I can't find a 13x1.50 tap yet if have to go that route.
If the bushings aren't too bad, might want to just leave it alone. You would need a full garage with cutting tools, welders, etc to get that out and fix the damage properly. Would almost be easier to support the motor and replace the whole dang subframe.
@@MIFixItDad Totally was my first though to replace the subframe. Then I was like nah, there's other ways. Found that the captive nuts and bolts are 14x1.50, so ordered a tap for the potential drill out and retap or at least chase the threads method. Yeah, my Dad left me a bunch of stuff and I know what to do. Had machine tool and welding in high school, so thoroughly qualified... uhm... after reviewing, researching and doing some test and practice before I go the later route. Ordered some carbide tipped tools and will head out to get cobalt drills if I need, though have hole saws, cut off discs and tools if needed. Whew! At least cooled down nice for today to get done before tomorrow and next day scorching predictions.
@@MIFixItDad Got it! Used the method shown in this video, How to remove seized rusted stuck lower control arm bolts Part 2 by YT channel DOSE OF FREEDOM, without heat, even though prepped to use the industrial heat gun if didn't. Only took maybe a minute and a half with the impact to break free going both directions this time with the best DeWalt 1200 lbs nut busting set on the 2 setting even. Though I literally hit the head of the bolt as well with the ball peens a few times as well in between the two attempts. Figure thought I started off on the 29th with Deep Creep and at the end of the day CRC red can brake cleaner and almost every day sprayed more Deep Creep on. Now to cut out that back ones bushing on the inside top since that's toast and ain't budging and that will be way easier and faster. Go figure, the not captive bolt is the one causing the most grief, albeit I didn't remove more to make more room. Still.
Thanks for this video because I have to replace the control arms on my 2008 scion tc and it seems similar to my setup
Most control arms are pretty similar anyway, but the Scion should be particularly close to this Matrix. The platforms and sized are very similar.
Weld a nut or spare socket on end of broken bolt and remove it with heat. Great job on drivers side. The toughest side. Always pre spray the night before with PB blaster.
At some point I might take it to a machine shop to try that. I don't have a welder or torch so not something I can do at home. I really would like to have that side replaced too. It bugs me knowing it's not.
@@MIFixItDad Did you get around to replacing drivers side control arm? You could also use a bolt extractor tool too.
Who'd you take it to in SW Michigan or elsewhere? Would be good to speak with them since I might wind up doing myself unless the price is right. I have all the tools to do, though rather and did get a few more just to see if comes out without breaking. Wishing I could afford to buy and return an Ingersall Rand 1600lbs torque battery impact. Was thinking maybe having someone who has mobile semitruck equipment come out and do, though I'll see what happens for now with what I own and have to work with. Thanks for sharing!
I'm in Kalamazoo and took it to Michael's Auto Service on West Main. Great guys, fair pricing.
@@MIFixItDad I know right where that is. I'm over on the lakeshore and thinking I'll be able to get done here since have or ordered yesterday the rest of the tools I'll need as backup and return if I don't need.
No need remove motor mount, just lift transmission. Finish this job one hour ago.
How do you lift transmission? I have a 97 corolla
How did you lift the transmission? 2006 toyota matrix xr
@@tsiitalwu311 just moved 1 in up w jack.
I had the same thing happen where the bolt broke on the whole crossmember of one I pulled from the junkyard.
thank you so much i almost had a heart atach when i saw that bolt now i know i can get it out
Can you do a video on the rear I have 04 vibe I need help fixing it
Drop crossmember 1 inch and that bolt is easy to remove.😊
good size job.
You’d probably have to literally swap the crossmember in order to fix that. Too much work. Yeah Michigan roads are crap.
I later took it to a shop that was able to cut it out and mount a new control arm. During the year I drove it that way it eventually popped out and put stress on the rear mount point and cracked the metal there. I had to have that welded up too. It's all good now though
@@MIFixItDad Awesome to read. Was thinking will be the worse situation route and plan. Do you know how they cut it out and what all they did welding wise? Thanks in advance for your time.
@@jafinch78 Basically all they did is finish cleaning up the torn metal, which wasn't a great deal to begin with, and took an oversized washer to weld in to replace the damaged area. They could have cut a piece of metal from stock, but luckily a nice hefty washer is basically a pre-cut, ready made patch. I've never had another bit of trouble from it.
@@MIFixItDad Thanks for the insight into what they did and who did. I'm going to get out and first do some back and forth impact motion for maybe 5 minutes or so and see what that gets me. Then heat the subframe just under the nut I think with a heat gun or maybe propane, though I'd rather not use flame. Maybe try to do the impact and deep creep back and forth for another 5 minutes and maybe repeat before I consider cutting anything. That's if nothing breaks.
Think I can fix mine now. Thanks for the great video!