Love what you did with the bilge! While episode after episode I grit my teeth over the idea of closing that deep bilge back up the access door is/was ingenious. The perfect compromise! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This is a great never ending story of glorious fun and patience. It’s very thrilling that the refit extends every now and then. We’re all looking forward to see you sail off into the sunset, but loving it’s not going to happen too soon. 🛠⛵️⏳
Thank you for another great bit of glorious sanding and painting and all of the stuff you do so well Mads. Athena is going to be a beautiful piece of art when you get done and a wonderful home afloat for you, Ava and Jurkill. Take care and have a productive week.
I just realized, that when I move into the elderly home in 30 years, my sunday evenings will still be like: "Welcome aboard Athena for another fun DIY video" 😂
Mads, if you need to stop water from coming in the boat, gorilla tape will stick when it is wet, and it can also be used to plug a hole in your boat if you get one, it can be applied under water.
Ex-PPG quality engineer here.... The reason you see a visible color difference is because color isn't a primary quality metric in most functional (as distinct from "decorative") coatings. It's entirely likely that both lots of paint were within the manufacturing spec, just at opposite ends of the acceptable range, which wouldn't be entirely unusual. You should definitely keep a "master standard" for your projects and always use it as reference when buying paint as the color from the factory can be adjusted to your specific need. This is pretty much industry standard for functional coatings, and you will have similar challenges from the other major manufacturers if you try to apply a decorative standard to a functional coating. If you're happy with the performance of the PPG, keep using it and plan to adjust the color match as needed. If you have a performance issue, just know that your color issue may crop up with other manufacturers, too.
Attention friend I had a situation where I had to dry a camper. it had water leak. we covered the leak. then i install a dehumidifier (the drain in the bath) in the camper let it run for a week. the next week we had full dryied woods studs. and in the black reservoir i had nearly 1 third on the tank. water i got out from the walls. I strongly suggest you do this for a few day to really dry up(don't use that bilge or it will cycle true get the water out with hose on the dehumidifier) the wood of the boat. Try it you won't regret. btw i love the video. To see that turning it too a sailing boat wow You will deserve that time on the ocean, you work very well!
When drilling through thick wood with a hole saw I have a tip for you it's one extra step but it does help. start your hole normally and once the pilot drill goes through the wood and you have an outline of the hole from the teeth of the hole saw stop,remove drill and with another drill if you have, drill one or two holes in the teeth tracks a 6mm drill bit woks well, then carry on drilling with your hole saw the holes you drilled with the 6mm bit seem to help with the heat and saw dust
1:18 GREAT selection of shirts. Too bad when you come over that the wreck diving season will be over here in Michigan...nothing like hitting 30M~35M to see the Eber Ward (a wooden schooner)...just amazing...
Hi Mads, Before drilling with a hole saw, it helps to drill a hole or two just against the inside diameter of the circle to clear the hole saw debris. Otherwise, the debris just hangs around the teeth, clogging them and generating heat. It’s a game changer.
I know, right? "Oh look, another area I have to tear out and rebuild on my boat!" and all with a cheerful smile on his face where most would be crying.
I had a boat that was like that glassed on the inside and open on the outside of the joint, I ragged out the outside of the joint and sanded in the gap with folded 80 grit paper, let it dry right out in the summer, blasted it out with the air line and filled the joint around wit Sikaflex, taped to keep the edges neat and that worked a treat it stopped my intermittent leaks down the inside of the hull.
When doing all this work in the bilge and knees, I would consider to install some pipes for the wiring already now. It's always a mess to pull cables without at a later stage.
When you bought Athena, I thought what a cool boat...maybe I should get one of those...after today's video (along with several other discoveries you have made) I will never buy one...unless it is yours. I love that you see every new bit of craziness as a challenge. You are inspiring Mads, thank you :)
So much work. Way to go Mads (?)! It's been a couple of years since I watched your videos but hopefully I got the name right. You were a great inspiration leading up to buying my first boat and preparing it to sail that summer. Your positive attitude can not be matched! Fair winds and greetings from Norway
Looking great Mads. My pro tip for hole saws is to replace the drill bit with a section of rod stock. It makes drilling the hole a two-step process (drill pilot hole then drill large hole) but you never snap the bits again.
When battling relentless advisories like water/gravity, always good to have repetitive solutions. Why not glass where you can on the inside & the outside, with just a bit of luck your mistakes won't line up. Keep up the great work. Quality always takes time, keep enjoying the journey
FYI, the loads on a chainplate are tensile. Tensile loads are great because they happen to pull things straight. Tabbing uni-direction glass to the hull in the direction of the load would introduce sufficient structural material to handle the compressive loads of a person standing on the deck above. No core is necessary in that situation. Sandwich-construction and scantlings are great for those flat, wide-open spaces which are prone to bending. Areas with bends and compound curves are inherently stiff. Of course, when you get down to it, I am a random-internet-stranger skimming over a technical matter. I am happy to upvote your efforts to believe the manufacturer. Their product has made it this far, warts and all. And the restoration looks like a million bucks to me. Best of luck.
@@alanabrams8017 He should close that area in the same fashion that the manufacturer did everywhere else. Repairs aside, the tensile forces would happen to close the gap because the chainplates pass through a hole in the deck, attach to the hull, and happen to pull the hull up under load.
I doubt that PPG mixed the paint. That is probably the work of your reseller. I wouldn't leave PPG and mix in other brands on my boat! So happy that I finally have a consistent paint system that I can overcoat for ever!
You have more patients than most with all the set backs and surprises. Bit you have come too far to change your mind on this now. Buddy you are a rock. I've been rooting for you for years now. Keep on keeping on. Peace
Ppg is actually one of the better paint companies when it comes to quality control of their colors. Now you understand why professional painters buy a larger bucket and "blend" all of their gallons together to achieve a single color.
They should make it up to a guy who’s audience will now second guess the paint selection world wide. Quality control on a yacht should not be a question, but a rule. He buys cheap hole saws, not paint. Haha
The point is the color was not even close... and boxing is always good but most non painters can't predict the amount they will need and retail price for paint is stupid expensive... this is a good bunch of people on this site and a smart host...
Been following this refit(as well as your past videos due to this series) and have not commented as of yet, however, I am sooo intrigued and impressed with your "jump in" and learn it, try it and do it attitude. Love it! Gives me and probably most watching this encouragement to do it themselves. Your explanation and walk through is awesome. Love the videos and await the next. Now the rebuild and layout, very exciting....
Here is a little life hack to make drilling out holes with a hole saw. Take your hole saw and start to drill out your hole. just enough to mark the outer edge. next take the largest drill bit you can handle and drill a hole to the inside of the hole saw where it intersects with drill bit leaving plenty of meat in between the pilot hole of the hole saw what this will do is give a place where the gullet of the hole saw can clear it self thus keeping the saw dust from over heating and burning and will make the action of drilling a hole quicker.
I'm always so impressed with your drive and sticktoitness. Not sure how you keep up the momentum, but good on you! I look forward to your videos every Sunday. If you did a sail life hat, I would definitely buy one.
Great progress Mads, looking really good and a good solution to do keyhole surgery where the deck and hull aren't sealed behind the bulkheads. Disheartening to say the least but cannot be left to leak forever. An opportunity to install wiring conduits at the same time maybe. Commiserations on the toe rail project. What were they thinking when they built it ? Warranty period only ? ? Unbelievable to leave a water path straight to the chainplate core.
So definitely glass the outside, we say "water always wins" if you glass just the inside, the water will work its way down into the hull causing de-lamination. Up to now, the water found a way out into the core of the knees and bulkheads. Stop it at the source, epoxy, glass and fair, then put the toe-rail on.
I was so sceptical about the structural members. Amazing how you dealt with that setback you got some months ago. The solution you used is perfect. You really pressed on, and already you are sealing up the floor. I am impressed at what you accomplished in such short time, especially because you still have your desk job! Keep up the good work, I will definelty be following your video’s with great interest
Just a tip when using hole saws.If you drill the pilot hole first with a standard drill bit your pilot bit on your hole saw only has to act as a guide. It never fails drilling the center hole with the hole saw the instant the bit goes through the material the saw catches and breaks the bit.
Sisyphus has got nothing on you, Mads. I admire in the extreme your work ethic. What puzzles me is why these suffer-fest videos are so entertaining. When you eventually do throw the lines, your cruising will be so justly rewarding. Thank you for sharing the experinece.
Mads, I feel for you brother. That sucks about the deck joint. You have the patience of Job! After you get this far into the project there is just no turning back. Good luck
Most sane people would just smear a little thickened epoxy in their limber holes, thank you for another wonderful episode of the obsessive compulsive chronicles! And for gods sake mads, Do some sanding with you! :-)
You are an inspiration. I have learned so much from watching your videos...though if I see a Warrior 38 for sale...I am going to RUN AWAY!!!! I am not sure if I would have your patience.
hey mads love your videos you might want to think about just mixing the two paints together then you'll have double the amount of one color just saying.
Great job enjoy watching your channel wish I could find more doing this kind of work if there is I can't find them lol keep up the good work and have a great day
Dinsdale Piranah yes , you are right. All these issues would have to be considered. You may even need new chainplates and longer stays. There are costs and benefits to every approach, short term and long term.
I'm hoping Chris didn't already comment from this account but: Awesome video Mads! It is so awesome to watch your process and progression. You are an inspiration. Cheers! ~ Marissa
Mads, I've used Petit paint with success. For the other difficulty, I think I see a call/message to Andy (BoatWorksToday) may be in order! Keep up the great work; the "steps ahead" you're making far exceed the "steps back" you've encountered.
I saw the coolest thing on a sole the other day. the person had placed a 1.5x1.5 sheet of glass over his bilge so he could monitor it without having to open the hatches.
Mads its a chain plate not a bomb shelter just saying love the way you do things but it is a little overkill. Cheers and keep the videos coming love them!
An offshore sailing boat with a tall modern rig needs to be easily capable of being lifted, fully laden, by one chainplate. Aiming for (say) 50% in excess of this in all facets of the standing rigging and rig is a good (and inexpensive) way of ensuring sound sleep, which in turn is essential to good decision-making in adverse circumstances at sea. IMO.
Really cool vid Mads, I'm watching this most recent one out of order, and I am in the process of doing all in sequence; I'm funny that way. I subscribed because this is something I too love to do, rebuild sailboats, and you produce good videos with impressive detail. I'm a recent subscriber. I need to do this RUclips thing too and could use advice. Some time perhaps. I have done three boats to date, two from hurricane damage, the other was disuse and was stuck in the mud at the dock, a little O'Day. A lot of people (most it seems) wonder why I do this and why I don't just go buy a boat in good condition, but it's hard to explain to folks who don't enjoy designing, building, and creating things just like you want them. Also, I trust my own work, and at sea, I trust my boat with my life. Besides, you can build it back exactly as you like it if one has the skills, or willing to learn. I do the same with all fittings through cored sections, drill oversized, fill with thickened epoxy, and redrill. Now, if done right, your core is safe and dry even if the fitting or hardware leak. It seems all boats leak at the hull deck seams, some worse than others. I always glass these over for peace of mind. Even worse, they will put trim over the seam for cosmetic reasons and not only not seal it, but penetrate the deck and core in some cases with the hardware used to fasten it down. I'm considering an Endeavour 37 at present, priced at a fraction of its value because of neglect and disuse. The bottom has been done in the past two years with some minor blisters professionally repaired with fresh new bottom paint. The cutless bearing and prop shaft were replaced at the same time. She's had the optional 4-foot bowsprit added, and the stay and jib moved forward. She's ready to be a cutter, which I like. Other than that she needs sails and to go onto the hard for a re-rigging and total makeover. The interior, the plan B model, is rotten from where the present owner has ignored the leaks for too long. I like it like that because I can not only get the boat cheap, but there's nothing like starting from scratch standing on a brand new sole in an empty cabin just waiting to be created in the image in your mind's eye. Should I, or shouldn't I, that is the question, right? I missed a 25-foot Catalina for USD 1750! Damn, I could have cleaned her up and doubled my money. All she needed was some tender loving care, a new set of sails, and a bottom job. Those little boats can bring as much a 8k.
Mads I really look forward to Sunday evenings, I have one question ...... Do you ever find yourself bouncing around swearing and having a minor meltdown every time you find another piece of shoddy work ? If not you must have the patience of a saint. 😆
So are we starting the university sweatshirt wars ! You can expect a few more in the mail soon. Uma had a deck/hull joint issue also. They just fiberglass the whole seam from the outside.
Michigan! My home state. That's a cool shirt. I grew up in a tiny, tiny town called Lake Leelanau and I went to school in a different tiny town called Leland. Google search images for Leland, Michigan. It's beautiful
For the last two Videos sanding and painting, I missed Mads cleaning up and had the strange feeling, the dust is getting into my nose.... I even wanted to blow away the dust at 16:10 🤣🤣🤣 guess my brain doesn't manage the timelapses well.... too used of Mads spiffy work after watching him for years now.
My recommendation for paint would definitely be ' Epifanes' wonderful paint. Used it before. Quality brand, you'll never have a different color if you buy the same paint number. Hope this comment is of any use for you. Keep up the good work👍
FWIW I'm partial to Milwaukee Hole Hawg hole saws. Buy once cry once, but they work. Also, remember they are saws. Drop the rpm and let them cut not grind.
Someone at PPG screwed up, and I'd suggest calling then sending them photos. They should AT LEAST express new cans of paint to you. If not, they go on the list of "never again" vendors. But first, give them one chance to make it right.
re hull deck joint: read Hall Roth After 50000 miles page 41 to 44 for an alternative solution re chainplates: I would prefer them to be attached to the (outside of the) hull, rather than to the knees.
I understand your comment about the chainplates going on the hull being a stronger place. BUT wouldn't moving them (and so the side stays) outboard change the sail plan? This would limit the size of the headsail because you have to sheet the headsail INSIDE the side stay to stay anywhere near to being close-hauled, in turn preventing the leech coming back any further than the stays, which in turn limits the size of the genoa. Lots of modern boats do this, but they are designed from the ground up with this in mind. This boat wasn't. Also changing sheeting angles may lead to other hardware changes which the boat may not have been designed (reinforced in the right places) to deal with.
Time to check the deck joins on our Warrior 38 now too!! 🙈🙈 We’ve just started doing chain plate maintenance this week, so I have a sneaky feeling there’s now going to be much more involvement than I initially expected 🤯⛵️
Perhaps using an oscillating saw to clean out those parts of the deck joint, letting them dry, and then using a hypodermic to inject epoxy to reseal it permanently?
Love what you did with the bilge! While episode after episode I grit my teeth over the idea of closing that deep bilge back up the access door is/was ingenious. The perfect compromise! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This is a great never ending story of glorious fun and patience. It’s very thrilling that the refit extends every now and then. We’re all looking forward to see you sail off into the sunset, but loving it’s not going to happen too soon. 🛠⛵️⏳
You are a joy to watch, with a great attitude to match.
Thank you for another great bit of glorious sanding and painting and all of the stuff you do so well Mads. Athena is going to be a beautiful piece of art when you get done and a wonderful home afloat for you, Ava and Jurkill. Take care and have a productive week.
I just realized, that when I move into the elderly home in 30 years, my sunday evenings will still be like: "Welcome aboard Athena for another fun DIY video" 😂
hahaha
Oh man! Would Mads think of that as boat refit hell, or boat refit heaven? What say you, Mads?
@@SootHead
He will say: the way is the goal 😁
LMAO! Now that's funny, but true if you've ever done a boat.
In 30 years, he may be your neighbor at the home and editing videos on how to fix the wheel chair.
Mads, if you need to stop water from coming in the boat, gorilla tape will stick when it is wet, and it can also be used to plug a hole in your boat if you get one, it can be applied under water.
You have a great attitude when you find another problem to solve! Needs to be bottled and shared.
love this Mads, but I'm not sure I would have stayed the course this long. But then again, it's always one more thing on a boat.
Love the Michigan shirt in the first section of video...my home state!!
Ex-PPG quality engineer here.... The reason you see a visible color difference is because color isn't a primary quality metric in most functional (as distinct from "decorative") coatings. It's entirely likely that both lots of paint were within the manufacturing spec, just at opposite ends of the acceptable range, which wouldn't be entirely unusual. You should definitely keep a "master standard" for your projects and always use it as reference when buying paint as the color from the factory can be adjusted to your specific need.
This is pretty much industry standard for functional coatings, and you will have similar challenges from the other major manufacturers if you try to apply a decorative standard to a functional coating. If you're happy with the performance of the PPG, keep using it and plan to adjust the color match as needed. If you have a performance issue, just know that your color issue may crop up with other manufacturers, too.
Mads we need at least a 30 minute video please!!! It has to last us a week!!! Great video I just wanted to be entertained longer ha ha 🤪😂🥳😎😎👍👍👍
Attention friend I had a situation where I had to dry a camper. it had water leak. we covered the leak. then i install a dehumidifier (the drain in the bath) in the camper let it run for a week. the next week we had full dryied woods studs. and in the black reservoir i had nearly 1 third on the tank. water i got out from the walls. I strongly suggest you do this for a few day to really dry up(don't use that bilge or it will cycle true get the water out with hose on the dehumidifier) the wood of the boat. Try it you won't regret.
btw i love the video. To see that turning it too a sailing boat wow You will deserve that time on the ocean, you work very well!
As a viewer each episode gets you that much closer to life on the water with Ava. Keep up the good work.
When drilling through thick wood with a hole saw I have a tip for you it's one extra step but it does help. start your hole normally and once the pilot drill goes through the wood and you have an outline of the hole from the teeth of the hole saw stop,remove drill and with another drill if you have, drill one or two holes in the teeth tracks a 6mm drill bit woks well, then carry on drilling with your hole saw the holes you drilled with the 6mm bit seem to help with the heat and saw dust
Mad you have used the original Warrior 38 as pretty much a template for the boat you're building. Love your work and channel.
1:18 GREAT selection of shirts. Too bad when you come over that the wreck diving season will be over here in Michigan...nothing like hitting 30M~35M to see the Eber Ward (a wooden schooner)...just amazing...
Hi Mads, Before drilling with a hole saw, it helps to drill a hole or two just against the inside diameter of the circle to clear the hole saw debris. Otherwise, the debris just hangs around the teeth, clogging them and generating heat. It’s a game changer.
Good tip.. thanks!
Excellent video as always
Isn't it always something?? ;) Paint, hull joins, etc. Your positive attitude always brightens my day and gives hope for my projects...... Thanks
I know, right? "Oh look, another area I have to tear out and rebuild on my boat!" and all with a cheerful smile on his face where most would be crying.
I had a boat that was like that glassed on the inside and open on the outside of the joint, I ragged out the outside of the joint and sanded in the gap with folded 80 grit paper, let it dry right out in the summer, blasted it out with the air line and filled the joint around wit Sikaflex, taped to keep the edges neat and that worked a treat it stopped my intermittent leaks down the inside of the hull.
“Good enough for government work”. Love it mate. Keep up the great attitude, it is so nice to see such a fantastic work ethic being done with a smile.
When doing all this work in the bilge and knees, I would consider to install some pipes for the wiring already now. It's always a mess to pull cables without at a later stage.
When you bought Athena, I thought what a cool boat...maybe I should get one of those...after today's video (along with several other discoveries you have made) I will never buy one...unless it is yours. I love that you see every new bit of craziness as a challenge. You are inspiring Mads, thank you :)
Jeffrey Wood the obstacle is the way!
SUCH NICE WORK AND EFFORT !
have a great week. Love TURBO mode , so exciting to watch her coming together..smiles from California, namaste.
So much work. Way to go Mads (?)! It's been a couple of years since I watched your videos but hopefully I got the name right. You were a great inspiration leading up to buying my first boat and preparing it to sail that summer. Your positive attitude can not be matched!
Fair winds and greetings from Norway
Great job Mads.Excellent preventative restoration for chainplate knee.Ross
I like you have soothing chopping out music and exciting banging sanding music
I think you have just devalued just about every warrior 38 on the market with that discovery of the deck to hull seal, or lack there of.
Alan B SV C'est Si Bon III That happened long before this episode ! I feel sorry for any owners...☹️
Stephen Crowther I say sink them all to build new reefs that way they would be good for something 😜😂😅😅😂🤑🤑🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮💩💩
That primer really ties the room together.
Oh that one is grey the other is mill white. Thumbs down.
Looking great Mads. My pro tip for hole saws is to replace the drill bit with a section of rod stock. It makes drilling the hole a two-step process (drill pilot hole then drill large hole) but you never snap the bits again.
Looking very nice!
When battling relentless advisories like water/gravity, always good to have repetitive solutions. Why not glass where you can on the inside & the outside, with just a bit of luck your mistakes won't line up. Keep up the great work. Quality always takes time, keep enjoying the journey
FYI, the loads on a chainplate are tensile. Tensile loads are great because they happen to pull things straight. Tabbing uni-direction glass to the hull in the direction of the load would introduce sufficient structural material to handle the compressive loads of a person standing on the deck above. No core is necessary in that situation. Sandwich-construction and scantlings are great for those flat, wide-open spaces which are prone to bending. Areas with bends and compound curves are inherently stiff. Of course, when you get down to it, I am a random-internet-stranger skimming over a technical matter. I am happy to upvote your efforts to believe the manufacturer. Their product has made it this far, warts and all. And the restoration looks like a million bucks to me. Best of luck.
Will the newly discovered hole reappear later as the chainplates induce a tensile strain into the repair he's about to effect?
@@alanabrams8017 He should close that area in the same fashion that the manufacturer did everywhere else. Repairs aside, the tensile forces would happen to close the gap because the chainplates pass through a hole in the deck, attach to the hull, and happen to pull the hull up under load.
I doubt that PPG mixed the paint. That is probably the work of your reseller. I wouldn't leave PPG and mix in other brands on my boat! So happy that I finally have a consistent paint system that I can overcoat for ever!
It looks awesome!
You have more patients than most with all the set backs and surprises. Bit you have come too far to change your mind on this now. Buddy you are a rock. I've been rooting for you for years now. Keep on keeping on. Peace
Ppg is actually one of the better paint companies when it comes to quality control of their colors. Now you understand why professional painters buy a larger bucket and "blend" all of their gallons together to achieve a single color.
Redpill Pirate
That wasn’t even close
What he says. It’s the only way. You just can trust them from batch to batch. You do it for all kinds of paint, not just marine coatings.
They should make it up to a guy who’s audience will now second guess the paint selection world wide. Quality control on a yacht should not be a question, but a rule. He buys cheap hole saws, not paint. Haha
William Wheeler agree buy enough paint and mix it all together. We call it boxing the paint.
The point is the color was not even close... and boxing is always good but most non painters can't predict the amount they will need and retail price for paint is stupid expensive... this is a good bunch of people on this site and a smart host...
Been following this refit(as well as your past videos due to this series) and have not commented as of yet, however, I am sooo intrigued and impressed with your "jump in" and learn it, try it and do it attitude. Love it! Gives me and probably most watching this encouragement to do it themselves. Your explanation and walk through is awesome. Love the videos and await the next. Now the rebuild and layout, very exciting....
Wow! First time on youtube you've put nice backmusic. As for the paint, buy two and mix together, or get completely different color for both.
One thing for sure your dream of fixing up an old boat sure as hell came true!
Warrior 38 nope !
Great shirt at the beginning! My home U.S. State is Michigan! Great Lakes, Great Times - thanks for another great video!
Here is a little life hack to make drilling out holes with a hole saw.
Take your hole saw and start to drill out your hole. just enough to mark the outer edge.
next take the largest drill bit you can handle and drill a hole to the inside of the hole saw
where it intersects with drill bit leaving plenty of meat in between the pilot hole of the hole saw
what this will do is give a place where the gullet of the hole saw can clear it self
thus keeping the saw dust from over heating and burning and will make the action of drilling a hole quicker.
Excellent tip.. thanks!
You are a proper danish resilient product of danmark super parenting.
I'm always so impressed with your drive and sticktoitness. Not sure how you keep up the momentum, but good on you! I look forward to your videos every Sunday. If you did a sail life hat, I would definitely buy one.
Great progress Mads, looking really good and a good solution to do keyhole surgery where the deck and hull aren't sealed behind the bulkheads. Disheartening to say the least but cannot be left to leak forever. An opportunity to install wiring conduits at the same time maybe. Commiserations on the toe rail project. What were they thinking when they built it ? Warranty period only ? ? Unbelievable to leave a water path straight to the chainplate core.
So definitely glass the outside, we say "water always wins" if you glass just the inside, the water will work its way down into the hull causing de-lamination. Up to now, the water found a way out into the core of the knees and bulkheads. Stop it at the source, epoxy, glass and fair, then put the toe-rail on.
you will have the best ever Warrior 38 when you finish,great job.
Espen Bjerke He will never finish this one. He will be 70 years old and doing glorious sanding videos on this same boat 🚣♀️ lol 😝 !!!
Your vids always make me itch!
Thank you.
I was so sceptical about the structural members. Amazing how you dealt with that setback you got some months ago. The solution you used is perfect. You really pressed on, and already you are sealing up the floor. I am impressed at what you accomplished in such short time, especially because you still have your desk job! Keep up the good work, I will definelty be following your video’s with great interest
Just a tip when using hole saws.If you drill the pilot hole first with a standard drill bit your pilot bit on your hole saw only has to act as a guide. It never fails drilling the center hole with the hole saw the instant the bit goes through the material the saw catches and breaks the bit.
Love the Michigan State shirt....go green.
Sisyphus has got nothing on you, Mads. I admire in the extreme your work ethic. What puzzles me is why these suffer-fest videos are so entertaining. When you eventually do throw the lines, your cruising will be so justly rewarding. Thank you for sharing the experinece.
Mads, I feel for you brother. That sucks about the deck joint. You have the patience of Job! After you get this far into the project there is just no turning back. Good luck
Most sane people would just smear a little thickened epoxy in their limber holes, thank you for another wonderful episode of the obsessive compulsive chronicles! And for gods sake mads, Do some sanding with you! :-)
You are an inspiration. I have learned so much from watching your videos...though if I see a Warrior 38 for sale...I am going to RUN AWAY!!!! I am not sure if I would have your patience.
hey mads love your videos you might want to think about just mixing the two paints together then you'll have double the amount of one color just saying.
Great job enjoy watching your channel wish I could find more doing this kind of work if there is I can't find them lol keep up the good work and have a great day
Try : "Rebuilding Tally Ho", "Brupeg" and "Boatworks Today" for starters... but this is my favourite.
Thanks 😊
Dinsdale Piranah
yes , you are right. All these issues would have to be considered. You may even need new chainplates and longer stays. There are costs and benefits to every approach, short term and long term.
Another great video. You are truly an inspiration for any diy person. Keep up your great work
Thanks for the shout out to Lake Michigan! That's where I sail.
PPG really dropped the ball on this one. Enjoy the videos. Thanks for your hard work.
After all this time ,you now works at light's speed , WOW !!!
I'm hoping Chris didn't already comment from this account but: Awesome video Mads! It is so awesome to watch your process and progression. You are an inspiration. Cheers! ~ Marissa
Mads, I've used Petit paint with success.
For the other difficulty, I think I see a call/message to Andy (BoatWorksToday) may be in order!
Keep up the great work; the "steps ahead" you're making far exceed the "steps back" you've encountered.
thanks
I saw the coolest thing on a sole the other day. the person had placed a 1.5x1.5 sheet of glass over his bilge so he could monitor it without having to open the hatches.
Have you considered installing your chain plates externally? That would eliminate potentially leak prone deck holes.
Mads its a chain plate not a bomb shelter just saying love the way you do things but it is a little overkill. Cheers and keep the videos coming love them!
An offshore sailing boat with a tall modern rig needs to be easily capable of being lifted, fully laden, by one chainplate. Aiming for (say) 50% in excess of this in all facets of the standing rigging and rig is a good (and inexpensive) way of ensuring sound sleep, which in turn is essential to good decision-making in adverse circumstances at sea. IMO.
Athena...the boat that keeps on giving ...I mean.. taking
Born and raised in Michigan!! Love seeing the shirt Mads :D.
Great shirt! Michigan is the best! GO GREEN!
Mads you are making cracking progress, it must be a real good feeling to have a flat surface to walk (and work) on - at last.😀👍⛵️
Looks like no more heatwave in Denmark. Nice job as always 👍👍
Saw much racing this weekend in Europe and it seemed cold and a spoogie mess.
Today was clear at the same places, though.
hi the boat is looking good
You may want to consider putting the limber holes at the very bottom so that water will drain better.
Really cool vid Mads, I'm watching this most recent one out of order, and I am in the process of doing all in sequence; I'm funny that way. I subscribed because this is something I too love to do, rebuild sailboats, and you produce good videos with impressive detail. I'm a recent subscriber. I need to do this RUclips thing too and could use advice. Some time perhaps.
I have done three boats to date, two from hurricane damage, the other was disuse and was stuck in the mud at the dock, a little O'Day. A lot of people (most it seems) wonder why I do this and why I don't just go buy a boat in good condition, but it's hard to explain to folks who don't enjoy designing, building, and creating things just like you want them. Also, I trust my own work, and at sea, I trust my boat with my life. Besides, you can build it back exactly as you like it if one has the skills, or willing to learn.
I do the same with all fittings through cored sections, drill oversized, fill with thickened epoxy, and redrill. Now, if done right, your core is safe and dry even if the fitting or hardware leak.
It seems all boats leak at the hull deck seams, some worse than others. I always glass these over for peace of mind. Even worse, they will put trim over the seam for cosmetic reasons and not only not seal it, but penetrate the deck and core in some cases with the hardware used to fasten it down.
I'm considering an Endeavour 37 at present, priced at a fraction of its value because of neglect and disuse. The bottom has been done in the past two years with some minor blisters professionally repaired with fresh new bottom paint. The cutless bearing and prop shaft were replaced at the same time. She's had the optional 4-foot bowsprit added, and the stay and jib moved forward. She's ready to be a cutter, which I like. Other than that she needs sails and to go onto the hard for a re-rigging and total makeover. The interior, the plan B model, is rotten from where the present owner has ignored the leaks for too long. I like it like that because I can not only get the boat cheap, but there's nothing like starting from scratch standing on a brand new sole in an empty cabin just waiting to be created in the image in your mind's eye. Should I, or shouldn't I, that is the question, right? I missed a 25-foot Catalina for USD 1750! Damn, I could have cleaned her up and doubled my money. All she needed was some tender loving care, a new set of sails, and a bottom job. Those little boats can bring as much a 8k.
Thumbs up not only for your attitude, but for being one of the rare people who can spell "cutless" correctly!
Great- Great Lakes shirt- I live in MI near the shore of Lake Huron- really enjoying your posts-
Keep up the good work and exposing all those mistakes made by the builder at first. 👍
Mads I really look forward to Sunday evenings, I have one question ...... Do you ever find yourself bouncing around swearing and having a minor meltdown every time you find another piece of shoddy work ? If not you must have the patience of a saint. 😆
The only bilge I would eat my dinner off of! Looks sweet!
So are we starting the university sweatshirt wars ! You can expect a few more in the mail soon.
Uma had a deck/hull joint issue also. They just fiberglass the whole seam from the outside.
Try jotun xp gloss and jotun hb epoxy primer. Used it for the hull and deck on my sail boat. Very good quality for the money.
Michigan! My home state. That's a cool shirt. I grew up in a tiny, tiny town called Lake Leelanau and I went to school in a different tiny town called Leland. Google search images for Leland, Michigan. It's beautiful
Speaking of synthetic, a guy named Teal on his channel Onboard Lifestyle. Has done some amazing things with honeycomb board
Mads. Make your own G10 if you need some. You already have the material and the equipment.
Wonderful video so glad to see all of your progress. I’m sure you’ll figure out a solution to the moisture / hull / deck issue.
For the last two Videos sanding and painting, I missed Mads cleaning up and had the strange feeling, the dust is getting into my nose....
I even wanted to blow away the dust at 16:10 🤣🤣🤣
guess my brain doesn't manage the timelapses well.... too used of Mads spiffy work after watching him for years now.
My recommendation for paint would definitely be ' Epifanes' wonderful paint. Used it before. Quality brand, you'll never have a different color if you buy the same paint number. Hope this comment is of any use for you. Keep up the good work👍
FWIW I'm partial to Milwaukee Hole Hawg hole saws. Buy once cry once, but they work. Also, remember they are saws. Drop the rpm and let them cut not grind.
Someone at PPG screwed up, and I'd suggest calling then sending them photos. They should AT LEAST express new cans of paint to you. If not, they go on the list of "never again" vendors.
But first, give them one chance to make it right.
Rather than PPG I’d go with either Hempel or international Paints. Both make a great product, with consistent color.
One mention of chopped fiberglass and I'm ITCHING! (But it's SPIFFY itching.)
One spiffy bilge, no doubt...
FWIW, when I was a merchant seaman our bosun used to add a different color to our paint when we were doing multiple coats. Kept us honest.
re hull deck joint:
read
Hall Roth
After 50000 miles
page 41 to 44
for an alternative solution
re chainplates:
I would prefer them to be attached to the (outside of the) hull, rather than to the knees.
I understand your comment about the chainplates going on the hull being a stronger place. BUT wouldn't moving them (and so the side stays) outboard change the sail plan? This would limit the size of the headsail because you have to sheet the headsail INSIDE the side stay to stay anywhere near to being close-hauled, in turn preventing the leech coming back any further than the stays, which in turn limits the size of the genoa. Lots of modern boats do this, but they are designed from the ground up with this in mind. This boat wasn't. Also changing sheeting angles may lead to other hardware changes which the boat may not have been designed (reinforced in the right places) to deal with.
Time to check the deck joins on our Warrior 38 now too!! 🙈🙈
We’ve just started doing chain plate maintenance this week, so I have a sneaky feeling there’s now going to be much more involvement than I initially expected 🤯⛵️
Do you also have an indoor pool in the bilge?
Jimi Andersen ha ha, yes, and every time I think I’ve found the leak that’s filling it, a day later, it’s full again 🤯
I don't wanna wait till next week ! 😥
Perhaps using an oscillating saw to clean out those parts of the deck joint, letting them dry, and then using a hypodermic to inject epoxy to reseal it permanently?
Did you epoxy the screw holes for fastening the cabin sole? Or, how are you treating those? Keep up the excellent work!