For the fuel filter under the floor board it is a 1/4 npt going into the tank I unscrewed it and put in a petcock so now I can just shut the fuel on and off
That is what I did with my tractor as well.....makes changing filters so much less messy...you still get the fuel from what is in the lines, but you don't get it gushing out from the tank.
I use plastic hose clamps on my rubber fuel lines. Amazon has several sets from around $12 for a 3 piece set. Also I usually put a fuel shut off inline ahead of the filter just to make filter changes and maintenance easier.
The small fuel filter under the left side is always a pain. The first time I used a fuel line shut off device but wing nut was not tight enough ~ yep it leaked. So I was the wing nut 😂. The second time I used vice grips, much better. 🙂. Tip: Do this when it’s not too cold, wear only a T-shirt. Diesel will wash off the arms, but not my favorite coat even after more than one washing. Lesson learned.
FWIW old spark plugs make a great semi-universal line plug. Just jam the insulator side in the hose and slide the clamp on. Essentially free if you work on gas engines as well.
I will have to do this service soon. Thank you for the insight into the task. I got a set of fuel line clamps for the inline filter under the deck. Even with my prep, I am expecting to get dirty. That's part of the fun. Thanks again Sir
Yup, I received a diesel shower as well lol! Messy job but if you have the filter close by, just stopped the fuel with my finger like you and did a quick swap, lost a little diesel and got some on the floor and my arm.
Vise grip makes a set of needle nose vise grips - works great & while you have the lines open, add a small petcock shut off valve :) Nice to know I'm not the only one who was given a fuel shower
You are very fortunate if this is only second time you have replaced the under floor fuel filter. I have to replace mine at least once a year. Can tell is getting plugged when I see/feel power loss. With right tools/clamps can replace that filter with no mess. Many struggle greasing the driveline/driveshaft u-joint through the small access hole - you did not mention so maybe that is easier on the 2018 model?
Thanks for all your good information, the good and the bad. The hydraulic issue was a great learning event for me. I did use a brake line clip to stop the fluid on one side and I had to use a bucket to collect the rest of the diesle fluid. Luckily, I only had a 1/2 gallon in the tank. Keep up the good post.
I just use small flat vice grips to clamp off one side of the small fuel filter at a time. exactly the same process as a D105 riding mower. uses the same filter and lines.
Needle nose vise grips work prety well for pinching hoses. If your worried about them cutting the hose put a piece of cardboard over them...or you could just move the filter to some where more convenient.
When you change the water separator filter located by the firewall, you depressurize the fuel system. THAT is the time to replace the floorboard fuel filter. Alternatively, use a pair of needle nose pliers with tubing over the jaws to prevent knicks in the hoses, clamp an upstream flexible fuel line and tape the handles together with duct tape (poor man's vise grips).
I used my hemostat clamps and everything went fairly well on that little fuel filter on the engine oil change when you put new oil back in it is there any reason why you don’t refill it from the top of the engine oil plug it’s so much easier to get to. And thanks for sharing information on hydraulic Oil change I told tractor time with Tim about it but he never answered
I have a 1023E that I service. It is due for 300 hour in May. I use green parts also great company to deal with also helpful. The fuel filter under floor board, I clamp it off with clamps I watched another RUclipsr use .I forget where he said he bought them but the work great I think it was 12 bucks for set. Sorry I can't remember where. Enjoyed video God Bless
It helps to cut the extra barbs off the little fuel filter. I wrapped electrical tape around my vice grip jaws and clamped the tank line when doing mine. It worked well. I may buy a proper tool for it sometime.
Gently use vise grips if you don’t have hose pinchers, also you see the filter has 2 stages for size, cut off the size you don’t need, makes things a little easier.
i ve done this maintenance several times never had a issue with losing fuel, my son a diesel mechanic says its common, so they have a set of fuel line pliers to squeeze line i borrow a small one every time
I think relaxing the hydraulics would be the safest way to service without actually disconnecting them, but they hold the same (or really close) volume either way. The fluid pushes on either side of the o-ringed disc depending on which way you're going, so the cylinder is always full of fluid. I'll go back and watch again to see your reasoning, but you're not changing any more fluid either way it's what I'm saying.
what about this, when you know you're about to do your service, let the fuel get to just about empty, with just enough left to do the warmup for oil change? Then, when you go to undo that little filter, just put your oil pan underneath to catch whatever is left in the lines?
Highly recommend not working under the loader like that without some mechanical support for the loader. Hydraulics can fail unexpectedly and you dont want to be under it.
When I filmed my "Tractor Maintenance" video, the footage of me changing that filter went to the cutting room floor. Along with the 2 shirts I was wearing 😆
You are ok, but something people should be aware about is that side oil fill cap on the motor. Mine and a few others when it is tight, it is more horizontal and that radiator hose is right there and shakes and keeps rubbing on that oil cap and eventually wears a hole through that radiator hose. Mine was about to go all the way through and I zip tied a thick piece of rubber over the radiator hose and it wore through that I noticed this past year. So I just used a Dremel and sanded off a little bit of that oil fill cap corner so it's away from that hose more. Will keep an eye on it. The fuel filter under the fender, best to put a shutoff valve on there. Some have moved the filter up under the hood by the fuel pump and shutoff there, which is what I would like to do next time. I just added extra hose and shut off valve under the floor board but not happy with it.
Ok, noob here. Changing the two fuel filters ended up with diesel on the ground on both filters. Is there a reason not to run the tractor out of fuel before doing the service?
I like to change that fuel filter outside, so I don't get the shop so messy. When I'm done, I move the tractor and burn the excess fuel off of the gravel driveway.
You all so can use a shop vac to hold the fuel in the tank put the shop vac in the fill hole and tape it up so no air leaks and the vacuum will hold the fuel in the tank. You don't want a full tank work good with a 1/4 of a tank.
Bonjour de France ou la même mésaventure vient de m'arriver. Une bonne douche (yeux compris) au gas oil !... Tee-shirt, pantalon empestant le gas-oil !.... Je ne comprends pas que John Deere n'ai pas prévu un robinet d'arrêt du gas-oil en sortie du réservoir pour éviter ce genre de mésaventure !!! Moralité: pour mon prochain changement de filtre, j'attendrai d'avoir un réservoir vide (!) avant de procéder !... Merci aux ingénieurs (?) John Deere...🤬
The full kit in itself is $400 smacks💵💵💵💵!!! Bunchuh absolute BULLSH🤬T in what J.D. charges their customers for a service kit!!! Shouldn't be NO MORE THAN A $50 CHARGE for the whole entire thing!!!
Is that what it is now? Last I purchased, it was around $225 I think. Used ttwt for free shipping from one of those stores. Forget which one now. (Was greenpartstore)
@@cashxx The full blown service kit I bought for my 1025R was $400 smacks at my local John Deere dealer. They doubled in price because a full blown kit was $200!!!
For the fuel filter under the floor board it is a 1/4 npt going into the tank I unscrewed it and put in a petcock so now I can just shut the fuel on and off
That is what I did with my tractor as well.....makes changing filters so much less messy...you still get the fuel from what is in the lines, but you don't get it gushing out from the tank.
@@wildbill23c Merci de l'info !... Vous auriez une référence, une photo ?👌
@hudsonvaganis7855 Merci de l'info !... Vous auriez une référence, une photo ?👌
You got me two times while watching your video. My wife was yelling at me to get the door!
I use plastic hose clamps on my rubber fuel lines. Amazon has several sets from around $12 for a 3 piece set. Also I usually put a fuel shut off inline ahead of the filter just to make filter changes and maintenance easier.
The small fuel filter under the left side is always a pain. The first time I used a fuel line shut off device but wing nut was not tight enough ~ yep it leaked. So I was the wing nut 😂. The second time I used vice grips, much better. 🙂. Tip: Do this when it’s not too cold, wear only a T-shirt. Diesel will wash off the arms, but not my favorite coat even after more than one washing. Lesson learned.
FWIW old spark plugs make a great semi-universal line plug. Just jam the insulator side in the hose and slide the clamp on. Essentially free if you work on gas engines as well.
My 2018 1025R has 950hr and have never changed the filter on the bottom yet. Time to change the glow plugs.
I will have to do this service soon. Thank you for the insight into the task. I got a set of fuel line clamps for the inline filter under the deck.
Even with my prep, I am expecting to get dirty. That's part of the fun. Thanks again Sir
Yup, I received a diesel shower as well lol! Messy job but if you have the filter close by, just stopped the fuel with my finger like you and did a quick swap, lost a little diesel and got some on the floor and my arm.
Vise grip makes a set of needle nose vise grips - works great & while you have the lines open, add a small petcock shut off valve :) Nice to know I'm not the only one who was given a fuel shower
You are very fortunate if this is only second time you have replaced the under floor fuel filter. I have to replace mine at least once a year. Can tell is getting plugged when I see/feel power loss. With right tools/clamps can replace that filter with no mess. Many struggle greasing the driveline/driveshaft u-joint through the small access hole - you did not mention so maybe that is easier on the 2018 model?
Thanks for all your good information, the good and the bad. The hydraulic issue was a great learning event for me. I did use a brake line clip to stop the fluid on one side and I had to use a bucket to collect the rest of the diesle fluid. Luckily, I only had a 1/2 gallon in the tank. Keep up the good post.
I'm getting ready to do my first service on my 2022 1025R. Thanks for all the tips.
I just use small flat vice grips to clamp off one side of the small fuel filter at a time. exactly the same process as a D105 riding mower. uses the same filter and lines.
Small vise grips work well. I deleted the filter and put a brass coupler
Needle nose vise grips work prety well for pinching hoses. If your worried about them cutting the hose put a piece of cardboard over them...or you could just move the filter to some where more convenient.
As tiny as that prefilter is, I'd change it more often then the main block filter.
They have some fuel line clamps they are smaller and would fit in both sides.
When you change the water separator filter located by the firewall, you depressurize the fuel system.
THAT is the time to replace the floorboard fuel filter.
Alternatively, use a pair of needle nose pliers with tubing over the jaws to prevent knicks in the hoses, clamp an upstream flexible fuel line and tape the handles together with duct tape (poor man's vise grips).
I used my hemostat clamps and everything went fairly well on that little fuel filter on the engine oil change when you put new oil back in it is there any reason why you don’t refill it from the top of the engine oil plug it’s so much easier to get to. And thanks for sharing information on hydraulic Oil change I told tractor time with Tim about it but he never answered
I used a forsepor a hemosta from harbor freight for the fuel filter under the floor board
I have a 1023E that I service. It is due for 300 hour in May.
I use green parts also great company to deal with also helpful. The fuel filter under floor board, I clamp it off with clamps I watched another RUclipsr use .I forget where he said he bought them but the work great I think it was 12 bucks for set. Sorry I can't remember where. Enjoyed video God Bless
It helps to cut the extra barbs off the little fuel filter. I wrapped electrical tape around my vice grip jaws and clamped the tank line when doing mine. It worked well. I may buy a proper tool for it sometime.
What did you use to support loader buck to keep it raised ?? Safety first
Gently use vise grips if you don’t have hose pinchers, also you see the filter has 2 stages for size, cut off the size you don’t need, makes things a little easier.
i ve done this maintenance several times never had a issue with losing fuel, my son a diesel mechanic says its common, so they have a set of fuel line pliers to squeeze line i borrow a small one every time
I think relaxing the hydraulics would be the safest way to service without actually disconnecting them, but they hold the same (or really close) volume either way. The fluid pushes on either side of the o-ringed disc depending on which way you're going, so the cylinder is always full of fluid. I'll go back and watch again to see your reasoning, but you're not changing any more fluid either way it's what I'm saying.
what about this, when you know you're about to do your service, let the fuel get to just about empty, with just enough left to do the warmup for oil change? Then, when you go to undo that little filter, just put your oil pan underneath to catch whatever is left in the lines?
Highly recommend not working under the loader like that without some mechanical support for the loader. Hydraulics can fail unexpectedly and you dont want to be under it.
When I filmed my "Tractor Maintenance" video, the footage of me changing that filter went to the cutting room floor. Along with the 2 shirts I was wearing 😆
You are ok, but something people should be aware about is that side oil fill cap on the motor. Mine and a few others when it is tight, it is more horizontal and that radiator hose is right there and shakes and keeps rubbing on that oil cap and eventually wears a hole through that radiator hose. Mine was about to go all the way through and I zip tied a thick piece of rubber over the radiator hose and it wore through that I noticed this past year. So I just used a Dremel and sanded off a little bit of that oil fill cap corner so it's away from that hose more. Will keep an eye on it. The fuel filter under the fender, best to put a shutoff valve on there. Some have moved the filter up under the hood by the fuel pump and shutoff there, which is what I would like to do next time. I just added extra hose and shut off valve under the floor board but not happy with it.
Standing under a raised loader is a life risking move. They come off so easily. Why not just remove it rather than risk a pressure loss and collapse?
Sure would be nice if there were a shut off valve at the bottom of the fuel tank.
Ok, noob here. Changing the two fuel filters ended up with diesel on the ground on both filters. Is there a reason not to run the tractor out of fuel before doing the service?
Why didn't you change the front axel fluid?
Will be doing this soon thanks for the tips.
I would not stand under a raised loader without a maintenance prop.
I like to change that fuel filter outside, so I don't get the shop so messy. When I'm done, I move the tractor and burn the excess fuel off of the gravel driveway.
Did you clean screen and magnets in transmission?
I put a shut off valve on the fuel line
Looks like the filter under the floor board is in backwards?
Same direction as the original.
The filter usually has a flow symbol on it so you know which way to install it. Always looks backwards to me too but that's how it looks.
You all so can use a shop vac to hold the fuel in the tank put the shop vac in the fill hole and tape it up so no air leaks and the vacuum will hold the fuel in the tank.
You don't want a full tank work good with a 1/4 of a tank.
two filters are two many- just do the one uptop
That filter design is a joke. Good job keeping your patience.
You needed to take vise grips and clamp the fuel line off.
I like the ding dong instead of bleeps. Them ingenieers.
Oh thats what was going on lol
Very nice video
Bonjour de France ou la même mésaventure vient de m'arriver. Une bonne douche (yeux compris) au gas oil !...
Tee-shirt, pantalon empestant le gas-oil !....
Je ne comprends pas que John Deere n'ai pas prévu un robinet d'arrêt du gas-oil en sortie du réservoir pour éviter ce genre de mésaventure !!!
Moralité: pour mon prochain changement de filtre, j'attendrai d'avoir un réservoir vide (!) avant de procéder !...
Merci aux ingénieurs (?) John Deere...🤬
I know it’s been said but really should not be working under a raised loader. It can come down without warning. Not a hater just want you to be safe
I bought clips from harbor freight for this task.
Use them doctor clamps
I put a stop cock valve inline for the next time.....
Folks, working under a raised loader bucket is a death trap
The full kit in itself is $400 smacks💵💵💵💵!!! Bunchuh absolute BULLSH🤬T in what J.D. charges their customers for a service kit!!! Shouldn't be NO MORE THAN A $50 CHARGE for the whole entire thing!!!
Is that what it is now? Last I purchased, it was around $225 I think. Used ttwt for free shipping from one of those stores. Forget which one now. (Was greenpartstore)
@@cashxx The full blown service kit I bought for my 1025R was $400 smacks at my local John Deere dealer. They doubled in price because a full blown kit was $200!!!
@@truckerray7533 Oh ok, I see what you are saying!
@@cashxx Yeah!!!
I swear I smell diesel fuel just watching you changing that in-line fuel filter.🤐😮💨😒😮💨😝
It was a couple months ago and I still smell it😀