I finally got my own process working. It's very similar to yours and your video was definitely inspiration! Thanks! Still working on edge finishing that may be faster, but one step at a time!
Lemme know how your edge finishing goes. I have experience with using 200 to 3500 grit sanding, flame polishing and now use a diamond edge finisher (very expensive but HUGE time saver). Thanks for the comment!
Backing is 1/8 sheet if optically clear acrylic. The adhesive is a double sided optically clear facemount adhesive. Thanks for asking and contact me through my site if you have more questions. Luminous-Views.com
Just discovered your Art. Congratulations for the astonishing prints and patience to achieve them. Could you please disclose the paper on the one your Arts are printed in this video? Thx
Any flat glossy paper will do. I am using the Metallic Photo paper due to the unique way it reflects light. It is not quite as white as it could be but sometimes effect is a bigger consideration than gamma.
@@toto_chanel6952 Moab Pearl is ultimately the nicest look but Epson is right there and nowhere as fragile (I do work like a clutz at times believe it or not). Go ahead and call me if you want more specifics.
@@LuminousViewsGallery Are you referring to Slickrock Metallic Pearl 260? Didn't know that paper, in Europe Moab is not very well developed. How does it compared to Hahnemühle Photo Rag Metallic 340g?
Hey Michael! GREAT JOB! I’ve been prototyping FaceMount prints on acrylic. I’ve seen Mr. Dave Goetter use a slad (not use if the spelling is correct) 1/8 in acrylic sheet with a double sided white non stick liner. I’m sadden to hear of his passing :( Do you have a video creating one? Or can you recommend which liner I can use? Is this absolutely necessary? Thanks for your help in advance 😊
@@BlockchainForWhatIsBest yes, earlier this year March. I found out when I was looking for his contact info and came across his obituary 😢 Sorry, let me rephrase. I’m asking about the acrylic board that’s fed through the laminator with the non stick liner. I’m assuming it serves as a stabilizer.
@@giftedhandsbyjaviah @giftedhandsbyjaviah the acrylic comes with a paper or plastic liner on the outside of the acrylic. IT comes that way in order to protect it. Is this what you are asking about?
Love your work! Specially the polished edge on the acrylic! What is the technique you use to obtain those smooth results? I have read that diamond polishing is the best way but the machine is over $5000!
To get the edges polished like that I use 6 levels of sanding starting at 100 grit paper and going to 3500 grit. The last two grit pads are specially made for car paint. When i get busy enough i will get the $5000 machine as it will save all kinds of time. What is your product?
@@LuminousViewsGallery Thank you so much for your response! I currently do wood work, I make 3D logo signs. But I am looking to get into making these acrylic face mounted art. I am just getting started, I ordered the facemount adhesive roll and a cheap manual laminator just to start of. I have been watching all types of videos in youtube and yours is the only one I see that shows the polished edge so nice. I could not have imagined it was sanded! I thought it was the diamond machine you had. It looks amazing. I have tried sanding the acrylic down but only to 320 and then doing the flame. Which helps but I guess I was missing going even higher on the sanding disk. However, since I have a company that provides the acrylic with the polished edges at an extra charge, I may skip this step all together. But I do see that you polished it after mounting the print, is there a reason for this? Also, do you do the flame afterwards or just sanding it down?
@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 I used to flame polish after 800 grit but the extra fine grit with extra time technique is most consistent and I never do too much (bubbles and burns) or too little (dull) flame/gloss - i mean without the $5K machine. Have seen laser cuts as perfect as my edges but never seen/watch a laser actually make a PERFECT acrylic cut. It has gotta be dialed in I imagine. I do have a diode laser for wood/leather plaques on my frames. It does cut opaque acrylic but not transparent. Your CO2 laser should make perfect cuts if dialed in I imagine - IN ANY SHAPE
@@LuminousViewsGallery yes I have tried getting a polished edge using my laser but I think its not very consistent, in all honesty I only tested once and yes the results were impressive but not perfect. I may have to play around with the speed and power a little more and see where it gets me. The issue is that I only have a bed with a width of 23.5 inch max and I want to make bigger prints, for that reason, I need to learn another method that gets me polished results. As you say, the laser would be great since it can make any shape, I am thinking about laminating the photo and then cutting the acrylic to a special shape with the settings dialed in for polished finished edges. It may be a great product to sell. But first I need to get the laminating process perfect to then go and test some more 🙂 I am excited! Thanks again for your help! I have one more question, how is the sanding disk that you have, the one that you pass the acrylic edge through before sanding it with the orbital manual sander called? Thanks again! I am impressed I was able to get in touch with you after finding this video!
@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 it won't be just a speed and power issue to get perfect cuts on acrylic. Your focus and hownthe laser us setup I believe... maybe call the manufacturer. I believe it would be WELL WORTH IT with a machine like that.
Hello sir. I've been learning from your videos quite a while about face mount acrylic using adhesives. To learn your pov, I want to get your advise on UV/UV LED printing (i-e, Mimaki UCJV 300-330 series or Roland TrueVIS UV roll based printer. My question is, are these UV roll based printing compatible for same face mount acrylic printing using adhesive? Your advise will be appreciated.
Hi Michael, we spoke some time back regarding the acrylic mounting process. I just did my first test today and I have a few questions. I wonder if we could set up a quick 1 hour session to talk to you about my equipment, material and process and ask you a few questions. I see in your website that you offer one on one sessions. I am located in Miami, so it would have to be online. Let me know if this is something you could do?
Wow, fantastic job. I just paid good money to commercial printer for my very first acrylic print of sunset image of mine. It's really beautiful all except the finished edges aren't nearly as good as yours. You sure have a bit of coin tied up in equipment,
If you are in San Diego I would be happy to share how exactly how I did those edges. That is not that much coin for all the equipment. The investment was time mostly.
Acrylic sheet, double sided optically clear adhesive, flat glossy photo print and various tools. If you need more help please call me, Michael, at 619-231-9061
Patience, meditation and the DRS techniques with flashlight. More times you find out how not to do it (many would say fail) the closer you get success.
I do workshops on how to make these yourself:
ruclips.net/video/6vCV660dmIw/видео.html
Looks amazing!!
I finally got my own process working. It's very similar to yours and your video was definitely inspiration! Thanks!
Still working on edge finishing that may be faster, but one step at a time!
Lemme know how your edge finishing goes. I have experience with using 200 to 3500 grit sanding, flame polishing and now use a diamond edge finisher (very expensive but HUGE time saver).
Thanks for the comment!
Stunning finish! Great work.
thank you for the video, what do you use for the backing? and what adhesive? thx
Backing is 1/8 sheet if optically clear acrylic. The adhesive is a double sided optically clear facemount adhesive. Thanks for asking and contact me through my site if you have more questions. Luminous-Views.com
Just discovered your Art. Congratulations for the astonishing prints and patience to achieve them. Could you please disclose the paper on the one your Arts are printed in this video? Thx
Any flat glossy paper will do. I am using the Metallic Photo paper due to the unique way it reflects light. It is not quite as white as it could be but sometimes effect is a bigger consideration than gamma.
@@LuminousViewsGallery What brand are you using?
@@toto_chanel6952 Moab Pearl is ultimately the nicest look but Epson is right there and nowhere as fragile (I do work like a clutz at times believe it or not). Go ahead and call me if you want more specifics.
@@LuminousViewsGallery Are you referring to Slickrock Metallic Pearl 260? Didn't know that paper, in Europe Moab is not very well developed. How does it compared to Hahnemühle Photo Rag Metallic 340g?
Hey Michael! GREAT JOB! I’ve been prototyping FaceMount prints on acrylic. I’ve seen Mr. Dave Goetter use a slad (not use if the spelling is correct) 1/8 in acrylic sheet with a double sided white non stick liner. I’m sadden to hear of his passing :(
Do you have a video creating one? Or can you recommend which liner I can use? Is this absolutely necessary? Thanks for your help in advance 😊
Dave died? No way. How did you find out?
I am not sure I understand your question. This vid pretty much shows the whole process...
@@BlockchainForWhatIsBest yes, earlier this year March. I found out when I was looking for his contact info and came across his obituary 😢
Sorry, let me rephrase. I’m asking about the acrylic board that’s fed through the laminator with the non stick liner. I’m assuming it serves as a stabilizer.
@@giftedhandsbyjaviah what non stick liner? Everything that goes through the laminator is sticky.
@@BlockchainForWhatIsBest Dang, I’m thinking about Dave’s video. My bad, thank you! Great work 🤩
@@giftedhandsbyjaviah @giftedhandsbyjaviah the acrylic comes with a paper or plastic liner on the outside of the acrylic. IT comes that way in order to protect it.
Is this what you are asking about?
Love your work! Specially the polished edge on the acrylic! What is the technique you use to obtain those smooth results? I have read that diamond polishing is the best way but the machine is over $5000!
To get the edges polished like that I use 6 levels of sanding starting at 100 grit paper and going to 3500 grit. The last two grit pads are specially made for car paint. When i get busy enough i will get the $5000 machine as it will save all kinds of time.
What is your product?
@@LuminousViewsGallery Thank you so much for your response! I currently do wood work, I make 3D logo signs. But I am looking to get into making these acrylic face mounted art. I am just getting started, I ordered the facemount adhesive roll and a cheap manual laminator just to start of. I have been watching all types of videos in youtube and yours is the only one I see that shows the polished edge so nice. I could not have imagined it was sanded! I thought it was the diamond machine you had. It looks amazing. I have tried sanding the acrylic down but only to 320 and then doing the flame. Which helps but I guess I was missing going even higher on the sanding disk.
However, since I have a company that provides the acrylic with the polished edges at an extra charge, I may skip this step all together. But I do see that you polished it after mounting the print, is there a reason for this? Also, do you do the flame afterwards or just sanding it down?
@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 I used to flame polish after 800 grit but the extra fine grit with extra time technique is most consistent and I never do too much (bubbles and burns) or too little (dull) flame/gloss - i mean without the $5K machine.
Have seen laser cuts as perfect as my edges but never seen/watch a laser actually make a PERFECT acrylic cut. It has gotta be dialed in I imagine. I do have a diode laser for wood/leather plaques on my frames. It does cut opaque acrylic but not transparent. Your CO2 laser should make perfect cuts if dialed in I imagine - IN ANY SHAPE
@@LuminousViewsGallery yes I have tried getting a polished edge using my laser but I think its not very consistent, in all honesty I only tested once and yes the results were impressive but not perfect. I may have to play around with the speed and power a little more and see where it gets me. The issue is that I only have a bed with a width of 23.5 inch max and I want to make bigger prints, for that reason, I need to learn another method that gets me polished results.
As you say, the laser would be great since it can make any shape, I am thinking about laminating the photo and then cutting the acrylic to a special shape with the settings dialed in for polished finished edges. It may be a great product to sell. But first I need to get the laminating process perfect to then go and test some more 🙂 I am excited! Thanks again for your help! I have one more question, how is the sanding disk that you have, the one that you pass the acrylic edge through before sanding it with the orbital manual sander called?
Thanks again! I am impressed I was able to get in touch with you after finding this video!
@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 it won't be just a speed and power issue to get perfect cuts on acrylic. Your focus and hownthe laser us setup I believe... maybe call the manufacturer. I believe it would be WELL WORTH IT with a machine like that.
Hello sir. I've been learning from your videos quite a while about face mount acrylic using adhesives.
To learn your pov, I want to get your advise on UV/UV LED printing (i-e, Mimaki UCJV 300-330 series or Roland TrueVIS UV roll based printer.
My question is, are these UV roll based printing compatible for same face mount acrylic printing using adhesive?
Your advise will be appreciated.
Parabéns pelo serviço você é um ótimo profissional
English?
Hi Michael, we spoke some time back regarding the acrylic mounting process. I just did my first test today and I have a few questions. I wonder if we could set up a quick 1 hour session to talk to you about my equipment, material and process and ask you a few questions. I see in your website that you offer one on one sessions. I am located in Miami, so it would have to be online. Let me know if this is something you could do?
thanks in advance 👍🏻
Hello, can you tell me what material you use for the photo and lamination?
The photo paper is Epson Metallic Glossy and the adhesive is Optically Clear Double Sided Facemount. Thank you for asking.
Wow, fantastic job. I just paid good money to commercial printer for my very first acrylic print of sunset image of mine. It's really beautiful all except the finished edges aren't nearly as good as yours. You sure have a bit of coin tied up in equipment,
If you are in San Diego I would be happy to share how exactly how I did those edges.
That is not that much coin for all the equipment. The investment was time mostly.
@@BlockchainForWhatIsBest Thanks for getting back to me. If I'm ever out your way I'd love to check out your technique.
what did you spray on the acrylic, please?
Cleaner. Use it to get rid of static and clean.
Alcohol and ammonia free. Like what you would use to clean an LCD.
NOT GLASS CLEANER
oh my god you do the photo first? When I can get a couple done in the other order first I will attempt this
i do not understand what you are saying.
Kindly, advise the type of materials required for this production
Acrylic sheet, double sided optically clear adhesive, flat glossy photo print and various tools. If you need more help please call me, Michael, at 619-231-9061
How do you ever get all dust or particles away…one always finds its way under . Grrrrr😢
Patience, meditation and the DRS techniques with flashlight. More times you find out how not to do it (many would say fail) the closer you get success.