It's easy to follow the instructions on these kits, but this video helped calm my nerves and reassure me that I had understood what was needed - thanks guys!
Thanks for posting, followed your instructions and much prefer bottling over pressure keg as I can chill easier in the fridge. I’m a complete novice and just brewed my 5th batch of Wherry, all with great results. Just wondering if any body adds anything different to their brew; has anybody experimented with lemons or limes or even coriander to give it a bit of extra kick?!
Excellent and informative video, getting my first kit delivered in a couple of days and this vid has given me a real head start. Thanks for the upload.
Many thanks for this. As a complete novice found it very helpful. Do agree though that more emphasis on steralising would be helpful as understand this could be crucial. Also could you advise on what amount of sugar should be added if a stronger brew is required (and is ordinary refined sugar ok?). Great help though!
As this video seems to be aimed at novice brewers, I think more of a mention of the importance of sanitising every piece of equipment is needed with your videos.
I’ve made this and it was great, I’ve just started brewing father hooks best bitter and I added the priming sugar in the first stage after the malt, water and yeast by mistake, will it still turn out okay?
It will be ok. Did you also add the big bag of sugar? If not take 100g out and save that for your priming sugar and add in the rest. If you added all the sugar, then it will be a bit higher ABV than designed. And youll have to get some more sugar for the priming of the bottles / barrel. Hope that helps
Brewbitz Homebrew Shop thank you for the reply, I did add all the sugar, when it comes to adding more sugar when I transfer it to the barrel stage can I use normal sugar? I will definitely do it correct on my next brew 🤣, also your videos are really helpful long may the beer flow 🍻
Hi. I enjoyed your video. when you have bottles the beer and kept it in a warm place for 48 hours is that still roughly 20c? And after that, would a fridge be ok as the cool place to let it clear? Cheers
Hi, thanks for watching! Your bottles should ideally be left at room temperature for a couple of weeks, then transferred somewhere cooler prior to drinking. Beer yeast won't condition your beer properly at very cold temperatures. So, let the yeast and priming sugar condition the beer somewhere warm for a week or two and then transfer to somewhere cool like a garage. Put your beer in your fridge 24 hours before you are going to drink it. Happy brewing :)
Is there a risk of the bottles exploding during the secondary fermentation? I've heard a lot of horror stories, especially with glass bottles which I'll be using.
Hi. As long as you use the right bottles - those suitable for holding carbonated beer - and the beer has finished its primary fermentation and the hydrometer reads an SG of around 1.010, then you shouldnt get exploding bottles. However i have seen a bottle of commercial beer just explode due to a fault in the glass. So you can never be totally sure. But stick the above and you might get 1 bottle explode every 10 years if you are unlucky.
Fantastic video, very informative. Been following this on my own first brew (The Wherry) and everything is going perfectly, thank you for the fantastic advice. Especially with both the bottling and pressure barrel components so you can make your own choice there. Cheers guys!
+Mal big Hey! You don't have to wait any amount of time if you don't want to! Technically you can drink the beer as soon as it's finished it's fermentation. However, if you wait 2-3 weeks the beer will be clear and will taste better. It takes a little while to settle down to the intended taste. Happy brewing!
In this video we show you how easy it is to brew, bottle and barrel a Woodforde's Wherry home brew beer kit which can be ready to drink in just 3 weeks. You can use this method for all 2 can beer kits that do not need extra sugar. So watch, like, subscribe and get brewing you own home made beer. We have everything you need to brew the Woodfordes Wherry in this amazing Micro Brewery - www.brewbitz.com/collections/homebrew-starter-packages/products/micro-brewery-woodfordes-wherry
Hi. You can buy the kit from our website here - www.brewbitz.com/collections/homebrew-starter-packages/products/micro-brewery-woodfordes-wherry Happy brewing.
Hi John. We have not used the Krausen collar. I believe it is used to help stop the foam overflowing the top of the bucket and from causing that ring of yeast foam in the bucket. This has never been an issue forr us using normal brewing methods. I have only ever seen an overflow of foam during a very vigorous ferment using a high sugar content and a very fast acting yeast. I'm sure you can use it with the Woodforde's beer kits just as you would with the Coopers kits.
Hello again. The first fermentation process has been successful. I added the sugar before bottling. They have been stored for 2 days and I can now see sedement forming at the bottom of each bottle. Is this due to the added sugar? Is it normal? Thanks again
This is normal, yes, as the beer is still fermenting in the bottle. This produces CO2 to make the beer fizzy and also produces the byproduct of sediment. Perfectly normal, REAL beers will have sediment.
You use your hydrometer to measure the sugar in the wort (not fermented beer) at the beginning. Then you measure again at the end of the fermentation. Then its just a simple calculation (there are online ABV calculators - just do a search) and itll tell you your abv Cheers
Yes. That sediment will stick together. When you open it, be sure to pour in 1 slow pour. Keep an eye on the beer flowing through the bottle neck. As soon as sediment start to enter the neck stop pouring. = a perfect pint. Dont worry if you do get sediment in your beer, its all drinkable!
Been reading about oxidation from having to much air gap in secondary fermentation bucket im going to bottle it and and let it stand for couple weeks, the bucket lid has reshaped from to much gas lol
Hi Luke. You only add priming sugar when bottling or barreling so that you give the yeast a tiny bit more to help create the CO2 to pressurise the barrel or to create some fizz in a bottle. You only use 2oz for 40 pints.
I’ve used this kit but after 5 days it hasn’t really bubbled a great deal. I’m nervous as last years batch tasted horrible (really sour) and not like wherry (or any other beer) at all, this one smells just the same. I’m probably going to pour this batch away now but I’m not really sure what I’m doing wrong, the only thing I did differently was just resting the lid on top of the bin rather than sealing it in place, but I don’t think that should make any difference?
Hi, thank you for the video. A couple of questions if you don't mind. 1. When taking hydrometer reading why cant you just place the (sanitised) hydrometer into the FV? 2.. I notice when adding sugar before bottling, this is simply dropped in and stirred; I have seen on some forums, the advise is to put sugar into water, boil, allow to cool, then add to FV prior to bottling. Can you comment on why some advise adding sugar using the second method? Many thanks.
Hi David. Thanks for your questions. In reply to #1, its all to do with the angle of sight. To read a hydrometer correctly, you need to see it at the level of the liquid, otherwise, you can get a false reading. and #2, This is the simplest way, add the sugar to the beer and stir. You don't need to put priming sugar into water, boil it then add it, you still have to stir it. It's just a different way to dissolve the sugar. Some believe it helps the yeast get to work on it quicker. But the yeast will continue to work on the sugar in the bottle / barrel for quite some time after you seal it. Hope this helps.
Hi there, I noticed in your video that after primary fermentation you put it into a second FV - add the sugar and then put it into a keg. I only have one FV and one keg so could I just skip out the secondary FV and just put the brew from primary fermentation FV to my keg and add the priming sugar then? Cheers for the video and help!
Hi. Yes you can, but it's a lot easier to stir in the sugar in the second bucket. Also, if you are bottling some, it will mean that your keg and all the bottles have the same Final Gravity. Happy Brewing
Kitchen Homebrew Salter check our stock availability here - www.brewbitz.com/b/130-woodfordes-wherry-real-ale-kit-40-pint.html At time of replying, yes.
Hi Daniel. We are looking at making some review videos of the finished products. But at the moment, we are concentrating on making videos on how to make them. All I can say is we have never brewed a kit that we were not able to drink :)
Yep. Tap water! It’s perfect!!! Bottled water can have to many minerals! This is brewing a beer kit that has already had the majority of the work already done, so the reactions in the mash, boiling & wort chilling processes with the minerals have already taken place. Therefore tap water, no matter where you are in the UK is perfect to use.
Seems a shame to go through all that correct sanitation procedure, to then stick the siphon tube in your mouth and then plonk it straight into the fermentation bucket to make sure all the bacteria in your mouth gets into every part of the wort. For you newbies, get an autosiphon or use a siphon start procedure that doesn't involve your mouth.
Never had a problem with this method. This method is still written into the newest homebrew kits as a way of syphoning. Sure, the auto syphon eliminates having to suck the tube. Tried and tested, it works for us and many other brewers. Thanks for watching, happy brewing :) :) :)
All I do is to get a sterilised jug, fill it full of the beer/wort, hold the hose up in a U shape, pour the liquid in, stick one end in the fermentation vessel and lower the other end into the barrel and it syphons itself out.
Any reason you don't advise use of an airlock and NOT opening the lid? Seems you are risking a novice brewer opening the lid after CO2 production has finishes and introducing unnecessary oxygen into the fermented wort? Not to mention the risk of a bubble over if the fermentation at first is more than the lid can stand...
Hi. Thanks for the comments. Airlocks arent actually needed, neither are lids. There are many traditional breweries all over the world that do not put lids on their fermenters and even let the krausen spill over into bins that then goes to the pig farm. But yes, using a lid helps prevent things falling into the fermenting beer. And then the time between the fermentation ending and transferring to barrel / bottle is so short, the risk of infection is actually very low.
Great video! Quick question. You say to leave it for 5-7 days in the bucket to ferment. Could it be beneficial/detrimental to leave it in there for 10/14 days ? Be interested to see what the result of that would be
It's easy to follow the instructions on these kits, but this video helped calm my nerves and reassure me that I had understood what was needed - thanks guys!
Hi deft08. Glad we could help ease those nerves. Good luck with the beer.
Enjoyed your video that fur and feather is great pub next to brewery funny
Thanks for posting, followed your instructions and much prefer bottling over pressure keg as I can chill easier in the fridge. I’m a complete novice and just brewed my 5th batch of Wherry, all with great results. Just wondering if any body adds anything different to their brew; has anybody experimented with lemons or limes or even coriander to give it a bit of extra kick?!
Thank you for the easy to follow guide. Doing my first batch tomorrow, cheers.
How did it go?
Excellent and informative video, getting my first kit delivered in a couple of days and this vid has given me a real head start. Thanks for the upload.
Great demo, many thanks 👍
great video, excellent presentation skills! Thanks
Great video! Feel confident in trying this now.
Go for it!
I didn’t quiet read the instructions properly and I added 100g of priming sugar to pressure barrel. Have I ruined my brew will it be too fizzy?
Many thanks for this. As a complete novice found it very helpful. Do agree though that more emphasis on steralising would be helpful as understand this could be crucial. Also could you advise on what amount of sugar should be added if a stronger brew is required (and is ordinary refined sugar ok?). Great help though!
you explained that good thanks and plus my names james so felt like you were talking to me haha
As this video seems to be aimed at novice brewers, I think more of a mention of the importance of sanitising every piece of equipment is needed with your videos.
Andy Kitchen Noted :)
Thanks Davin i will try this one tomorrow
that was verry good thanks for the help.
I’ve made this and it was great, I’ve just started brewing father hooks best bitter and I added the priming sugar in the first stage after the malt, water and yeast by mistake, will it still turn out okay?
It will be ok. Did you also add the big bag of sugar? If not take 100g out and save that for your priming sugar and add in the rest.
If you added all the sugar, then it will be a bit higher ABV than designed.
And youll have to get some more sugar for the priming of the bottles / barrel.
Hope that helps
Brewbitz Homebrew Shop thank you for the reply, I did add all the sugar, when it comes to adding more sugar when I transfer it to the barrel stage can I use normal sugar? I will definitely do it correct on my next brew 🤣, also your videos are really helpful long may the beer flow 🍻
Yes you can. Use approx 50grams
Brewbitz Homebrew Shop thanks 👍🏻
Hi. I enjoyed your video. when you have bottles the beer and kept it in a warm place for 48 hours is that still roughly 20c? And after that, would a fridge be ok as the cool place to let it clear? Cheers
Hi, thanks for watching!
Your bottles should ideally be left at room temperature for a couple of weeks, then transferred somewhere cooler prior to drinking. Beer yeast won't condition your beer properly at very cold temperatures.
So, let the yeast and priming sugar condition the beer somewhere warm for a week or two and then transfer to somewhere cool like a garage. Put your beer in your fridge 24 hours before you are going to drink it.
Happy brewing :)
+Brewbitz Homebrew Shop Thanks for the reply!
Can i leave my beer in the barrel and not bottle it. Just draw a pint from it when i need one? Does it have a long shelf life?
Is there a risk of the bottles exploding during the secondary fermentation? I've heard a lot of horror stories, especially with glass bottles which I'll be using.
Hi. As long as you use the right bottles - those suitable for holding carbonated beer - and the beer has finished its primary fermentation and the hydrometer reads an SG of around 1.010, then you shouldnt get exploding bottles.
However i have seen a bottle of commercial beer just explode due to a fault in the glass. So you can never be totally sure. But stick the above and you might get 1 bottle explode every 10 years if you are unlucky.
Thanks for the quick reply, especially on a 10 year old video. You've put my biggest brewing fear to bed
Fantastic video, very informative. Been following this on my own first brew (The Wherry) and everything is going perfectly, thank you for the fantastic advice. Especially with both the bottling and pressure barrel components so you can make your own choice there. Cheers guys!
Hi guys- Do you really need to wait 3 weeks or is that your personal preference?
+Mal big Hey! You don't have to wait any amount of time if you don't want to! Technically you can drink the beer as soon as it's finished it's fermentation. However, if you wait 2-3 weeks the beer will be clear and will taste better. It takes a little while to settle down to the intended taste. Happy brewing!
Do you not need to add any hops?
No, thats already been done for you.
Hello, can you add the beer into bottles after a month in the pressure barrel to stop the sediment in the bottles?
Cheers
Hi - yes, there will still be some live yeast. Bottle conditioned beer will still have some sediment tho.
wherry good video
In this video we show you how easy it is to brew, bottle and barrel a Woodforde's Wherry home brew beer kit which can be ready to drink in just 3 weeks. You can use this method for all 2 can beer kits that do not need extra sugar. So watch, like, subscribe and get brewing you own home made beer.
We have everything you need to brew the Woodfordes Wherry in this amazing Micro Brewery - www.brewbitz.com/collections/homebrew-starter-packages/products/micro-brewery-woodfordes-wherry
Hi. I presume you mean hops?
If yes, then yes!
Hi. You can buy the kit from our website here - www.brewbitz.com/collections/homebrew-starter-packages/products/micro-brewery-woodfordes-wherry
Happy brewing.
Hi, I am trying to brew this in a Coopers homebrew kit, the one with the krausen collar. Any tips? Thanks John
Hi John. We have not used the Krausen collar. I believe it is used to help stop the foam overflowing the top of the bucket and from causing that ring of yeast foam in the bucket. This has never been an issue forr us using normal brewing methods.
I have only ever seen an overflow of foam during a very vigorous ferment using a high sugar content and a very fast acting yeast.
I'm sure you can use it with the Woodforde's beer kits just as you would with the Coopers kits.
Hello again. The first fermentation process has been successful. I added the sugar before bottling. They have been stored for 2 days and I can now see sedement forming at the bottom of each bottle. Is this due to the added sugar? Is it normal? Thanks again
This is normal, yes, as the beer is still fermenting in the bottle. This produces CO2 to make the beer fizzy and also produces the byproduct of sediment. Perfectly normal, REAL beers will have sediment.
Great. Cheers
help pls someone. How an earth do i know how strong this is? can someone help me? what should the second reading be when finished? lost
You use your hydrometer to measure the sugar in the wort (not fermented beer) at the beginning. Then you measure again at the end of the fermentation.
Then its just a simple calculation (there are online ABV calculators - just do a search) and itll tell you your abv
Cheers
Been in the second fermentation with the sugar nearly 2 weeks now , is it normal for some sludge at bottom of the bottles to be there ?
Yes. That sediment will stick together. When you open it, be sure to pour in 1 slow pour. Keep an eye on the beer flowing through the bottle neck. As soon as sediment start to enter the neck stop pouring. = a perfect pint.
Dont worry if you do get sediment in your beer, its all drinkable!
Been reading about oxidation from having to much air gap in secondary fermentation bucket im going to bottle it and and let it stand for couple weeks, the bucket lid has reshaped from to much gas lol
I poured both can and didnt stit the syrup i filled yp with cold water and mixed after have i ruined it ??
As long as the thick syrup has been thoroughly mixed into the water then it should be ok.
did he really do that with the priming sugar. (family fortunes wrong answer jingle springs to mind)
??? :)
I normally dissolve the sugar in warm water, add it to the keg then add the beer. I feel it mixes better.
Great video but I was under the impression you didn't need to add sugar?
Hi Luke. You only add priming sugar when bottling or barreling so that you give the yeast a tiny bit more to help create the CO2 to pressurise the barrel or to create some fizz in a bottle. You only use 2oz for 40 pints.
I’ve used this kit but after 5 days it hasn’t really bubbled a great deal. I’m nervous as last years batch tasted horrible (really sour) and not like wherry (or any other beer) at all, this one smells just the same. I’m probably going to pour this batch away now but I’m not really sure what I’m doing wrong, the only thing I did differently was just resting the lid on top of the bin rather than sealing it in place, but I don’t think that should make any difference?
Hi, thank you for the video. A couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. When taking hydrometer reading why cant you just place the (sanitised) hydrometer into the FV?
2.. I notice when adding sugar before bottling, this is simply dropped in and stirred; I have seen on some forums, the advise is to put sugar into water, boil, allow to cool, then add to FV prior to bottling. Can you comment on why some advise adding sugar using the second method?
Many thanks.
Hi David. Thanks for your questions.
In reply to #1, its all to do with the angle of sight. To read a hydrometer correctly, you need to see it at the level of the liquid, otherwise, you can get a false reading.
and #2, This is the simplest way, add the sugar to the beer and stir. You don't need to put priming sugar into water, boil it then add it, you still have to stir it. It's just a different way to dissolve the sugar. Some believe it helps the yeast get to work on it quicker. But the yeast will continue to work on the sugar in the bottle / barrel for quite some time after you seal it.
Hope this helps.
no need for an airlock on the barrell ??
scott lee Hi. Nope. There is a safety valve on the barrel if too much CO2 is injected/created.
Hi there, I noticed in your video that after primary fermentation you put it into a second FV - add the sugar and then put it into a keg. I only have one FV and one keg so could I just skip out the secondary FV and just put the brew from primary fermentation FV to my keg and add the priming sugar then? Cheers for the video and help!
Hi.
Yes you can, but it's a lot easier to stir in the sugar in the second bucket. Also, if you are bottling some, it will mean that your keg and all the bottles have the same Final Gravity.
Happy Brewing
this is what the Woodfordes instructions state, and you only get one fv with the kit. maybe it's worth investing in a second?
Is this kit in stock ?
Kitchen Homebrew Salter check our stock availability here - www.brewbitz.com/b/130-woodfordes-wherry-real-ale-kit-40-pint.html
At time of replying, yes.
Is it alright to leave the 1st fermenting stage a little long even if all the foam is gone?
Kaminda Bleh hi. Yes. You can leave it a few more days. Just make sure it's covered.
I had 2 sachets of yeast in my box of wherry
That’s so you can do 1 can at a time (20pints) if you wanted to make a smaller batch.
Norfolk
Why do none of these videos show what it looks like after it's finished?
Hi Daniel. We are looking at making some review videos of the finished products. But at the moment, we are concentrating on making videos on how to make them. All I can say is we have never brewed a kit that we were not able to drink :)
Tap water?????????????????????
Yep. Tap water! It’s perfect!!! Bottled water can have to many minerals! This is brewing a beer kit that has already had the majority of the work already done, so the reactions in the mash, boiling & wort chilling processes with the minerals have already taken place.
Therefore tap water, no matter where you are in the UK is perfect to use.
Seems a shame to go through all that correct sanitation procedure, to then stick the siphon tube in your mouth and then plonk it straight into the fermentation bucket to make sure all the bacteria in your mouth gets into every part of the wort. For you newbies, get an autosiphon or use a siphon start procedure that doesn't involve your mouth.
Never had a problem with this method. This method is still written into the newest homebrew kits as a way of syphoning. Sure, the auto syphon eliminates having to suck the tube. Tried and tested, it works for us and many other brewers.
Thanks for watching, happy brewing :) :) :)
All I do is to get a sterilised jug, fill it full of the beer/wort, hold the hose up in a U shape, pour the liquid in, stick one end in the fermentation vessel and lower the other end into the barrel and it syphons itself out.
Any reason you don't advise use of an airlock and NOT opening the lid? Seems you are risking a novice brewer opening the lid after CO2 production has finishes and introducing unnecessary oxygen into the fermented wort? Not to mention the risk of a bubble over if the fermentation at first is more than the lid can stand...
Hi. Thanks for the comments. Airlocks arent actually needed, neither are lids. There are many traditional breweries all over the world that do not put lids on their fermenters and even let the krausen spill over into bins that then goes to the pig farm.
But yes, using a lid helps prevent things falling into the fermenting beer. And then the time between the fermentation ending and transferring to barrel / bottle is so short, the risk of infection is actually very low.
What the hell is that you are drinking?
Oh - it was a cider
Great video! Quick question. You say to leave it for 5-7 days in the bucket to ferment. Could it be beneficial/detrimental to leave it in there for 10/14 days ? Be interested to see what the result of that would be
It depends on the brewing process. But as long as you dont lift the lid too many times, it will be fine to leave in the bucket. It helps clearing too