Your video was a godsend. Having put a lot of hours on my saw, which I love, I was having many of the same issues as you. Last Friday we we hit hard by Hurricane Helene here near Kings Mountain, North Carolina. Thank God I had ordered me needed parts several weeks ago, and used your video to overhaul my saw today. Now it’s almost as good as new and made shirt work of the first of many newly felled tree on our place. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Great video. Very well done. 2 suggestions: 1) the bar sprocket requires grease. Oregon has a grease pusher on Amazon. 2) when cutting a suspended log, cut a 1/3 slice from the bottom prior to cutting the top. Your chainsaw blade will not get squeezed and jammed. When the trunk is suspended from both ends, the reverse is applicable thus : top first then bottom.
This video was a big help! Thank you! I didn't know DeWalt updated the cover design to remove that silly ratcheting handle that never let you tighten the bar enough. Both the inner and outer cover were damaged on my saw due to the cover always working loose. I've replaced both now thanks to this video! Appreciate it! Other than that, this is a really nice saw. Brushed out a lot of trees and put up a lot of firewood with it.
Also had mine for 3 years, gers used everyday for general logging, still going strong, original 9amh battery been re-charged over 1000 times, but it still did 73 6x6 cuts in semi hardwood the other day.. Best £500 I've spent in many years. I'll also be getting new side plates, cos it does seem the early one was a bit of an iffy design, my bat clamp comes undone while I'm cutting..
Buy yourself a tip-greaser and grease the tip every time you add more chain oil. See the comment by Mark Thomas. You will not need a new bar ever again. No grease and you will fry the bearings, and the tip wheel will be able to go off center - sink in. Good video. I had bought a new plate too. Fried because I could not fully tighten the bar - bad design. Then I noticed that a new cover would not have the ratcheting, so that I could properly tighten the bar, so I bought that too. Good to see they are fixing the problems, and have a better design. Now I have my eye on the new DCCS677Z1. Holding out for a two 60V battery for 120VDC with 36 inch bar version... I may have to build it myself from a drive unit from one of their two-battery chop-saws, put into a big old chainsaw with the engine removed. PS no need to remove the long screw on the handle. Whatever.
Like Kris Rubin, my saw is not oiling and would appreciate a video on that subject. Your video was very informative. Nuts/bolts, we know what you meant.
Thanks for your review. I relate to your videos because I manage our forested land in south central Virginia, mainly killing the same invasives that you're dealing with. Stiltgrass is my main target recently, however Asian grapevine, Japanese honeysuckle, tree-of-heaven, oriental bittersweet, garlic mustard, multiflora rose, and autumn olive are of equal concern and get dealt with accordingly. Good luck with your fight. I know it's daunting, because I live it every day like you do.
We are currently shifting focus from Garlic Mustard to Japanese Stilt Grass. I never have to worry about job security! Thanks for your work encouraging native plant communities.
This is a good video. I'm an experienced chin saw user and have lived them since I was a toddler and I can say nothing negative about this video. While the commenter isn't wrong when it comes to using the saws felling dogs as a fulcrum point and neglecting to do so may be a big factor in the sprocket failures - however what was said in the video regarding the large percentage of low to the ground brush cutting being some of the worst of the common cutting conditions for chain/bar wear and tear is no overstatement. Also this kind of cutting is much more front of bar focused so it's very probable that those two factors are the biggest reasons for the sprocket failures.
In my saw, model DMC 575, I also put a petal-rubber washer under the screw that tightens the sprocket to press the stop washer, because without it it flies like a rag and the chain can cut into the space between the volume where it's better not to get in. Regards😊
I must have got the revised version, because mine came with the non-ratcheting tensioner. My only issue is the safety brake. I can't operate the saw without physically holding handguard/safety brake rearward. I'll have to rip into it and see what I can find. Other than that, I love the saw. It is really low maintenance and always ready.
I have the 18-inch version and it works great. Flash Forward a couple years later I'm going to buy the new updated model my buddy has one and they fixed most of the flaws feels more like a gas chainsaw
Great video, I just bought my first DeWalt chainsaw. I was a bit apprehensive as I use Stihl and Husquvarna. LOVE IT! This saw exceeds all expectations. I cut mostly oak firewood and dead elm. However, I need a good video on how to adjust or fix the safety brake. It engages for no reason. Thanks for the great video.
@@radicaltuesday6347 Not yet. I haven't used it in while. The saw started doing it on my last cutting. Now it's -3 and I'm just chillin until spring (no pun intended) and I'll work on it then. As I understand it, the brake can be adjusted. I watched a RUclips video on the break down.
@@radicaltuesday6347 Not yet. I haven't used it in while. The saw started doing it on my last cutting. Now it's -3 and I'm just chillin until spring (no pun intended) and I'll work on it then. As I understand it, the brake can be adjusted. I watched a RUclips video on the break down. Merry Christmas!
Just picked up the DCCS670 (16"). Is there a way to defeat the plastic bar tightener to increase the torque there? The lack of lube holes on the bar tip seems like a weakness. Have you looked at Oregon bars? Any way to add metal dogs for better leverage, or would that stress the engine too much? I will need to avoid pushing the dewalt like I do my old Stihl 024 when I need that top end power. Main use is for opening quad trails for forestry work and layout. Bigger windfalls I leave for the loggers. Red Flag days are a big issue around here so this helps with that too. Thanks for the video - and STAY SAFE!
I bought the European version of this saw last year. one negative point, because of which the saw went for repair a month later and without a guarantee - a thorn broke through the window of the oil tank. I used hot melt adhesive, which I applied in a thick layer all over the oil tank window so that this would not happen again.
There should be a pin hole on the bar for a place to grease the sprocket on the bar. I think I see it in the video. They make a small grease gun to use on it.
alot of people put a o ring on the oil cap. theres reviews on amazon showing it. its typical on these to leak if yiu set it down with the oil cap up it wont leak
Mine leaks from the bar. I keep it in an aluminum pan when horizontal, or hang it up with the scabbard on so that the scabbard collects the oil. It's not that much oil as long as its not dripping onto something important.
Have you had the dreaded bar oil leak that the 670 can have? Seems that some people have the issue, others do not. Since new even before use, the saw will leak bar oil just sitting on the shelf.
To be honest, every saw that I own, both electric and gas, leaks oil while sitting on the shelf. I keep the gas ones in an aluminum roasting pan, and the electric I hang up with the scabbard on so that any leaked oil is caught in the scabbard.
Has anyone done a video on replacing the oil filter? I'm hoping that mine is clogged, and cleaning or a new one will allow the oil to flow again. I will try to clean the existing one before I invest the $1.23 for a new one. I think I just need to fish the tube out through the oil container opening, but a quick video on how to clean or replace the oil filter would be nice. I guess I'll have to do that myself too... Or I've given you a good video idea! :)
The dimple at the bar end at the gear is for a needle greasing tip. Clean it carefully with some brake or carb cleaner. Try to get some synthetic grease & getsome Lube in there & your sprocket won’t die. Your bar by observation has very little wear.
Hi there just took mine apart to replace a sprocket and some other parts like you I noticed I have some little sponges in the mechanism for the guard that pulls back and goes forward I did not see you having those in there mine are filthy of course with oil and dirt also wondering you put that one Parton device and how did you knock out that knob deal did you just like knock it out
Would like to know if your Bar/Chain oil leaks or dribbles out when the saw is not being used. Believe Dewalt needs to check on this since their other models don't seem to have this issue.
Every saw I have ever had dribbled bar oil when in storage. I keep them in an aluminum tray to collect the oil. I used to hang them (with the slot on the back of the handle) with the scabbard in place to collect the oil.
I talked to a guy who services Milwaukee and DeWalt tools at authorized repair center. I Asked him do the DeWalt cordless chainsaws have pumps in them for chainsaw bar oil?. Answer from DeWalt authorized repair technician No oil pump for bar oil, the oil reservoir just leaks oil on the chain all the time that's how it works. Thanks for the e-commerce repair pards tip, I need to buy some parts for my DeWalt saw, busted off my chain brake lever yesterday.
wow!!! i have the same story as you with the missing washer ! i bought it iff a buddy 2 years ago and not sure if i got it without the screw and washer or if i forgot about it. but i now need to replace the sprocket since its now trashed and wont hold the chain. now i need to tune it up. seems like your bideo should help me out with the parts source also. any other tips or tricks appreciated
My DeWalt sprocket bolt failed multiple times. Usually the bolt would come loose. I also did thread locker, but then the bolt sheared off inside the sprocket. I've had my DeWalt 4 years now. That sprocket and bolt are the weakest link. 😢
Great video, I'm on the fench about buying the new 20inch bar Dewalt saw, 677 last digits. I noticed you said you replaced bar and was wondering did you grease the nose roller? there is a tiny hole to do this at roller. In my experience it saves them from seizing. Cheers from Nova Scotia
Very informative video. I have a DCCS620 that has similar components and this will be a big help if I have future trouble with it. I'm considering upgrading to the 670. Thanks!
Good vid...chainsaws are made tocut more efficiently by putting your bar all the up on tree in other words where possible you want motor against tree so to speak. That does 2 things. It keeps saw from pulling on your arms and shoulders and also cut faster by getting better bite on wood. The way you are cutting is reason sprocket on tip of bar is worn out. You are pinching end of bar. - Forester for 35 yrs.😉
You can feel the difference when you snug the housing up to what you’re cutting. Saves battery, although sometimes you don’t have the space. I have this saw and I use it clear trail. If you use it properly it’s an impressive little saw. Most of the folks that review this thing don’t seem to understand chainsaws in general. I have a “big saw” 372xp for heavy work but I reach for this DeWalt most of the time. It’s just so convenient.
@@coryviolette8622 What tickles me is some of these yters are going back and forth with the chainsaw like it's a crosscut saw our grandfathers used😃 I have worn out several huskies and stihls. My go to saw is my Dewalt!!!
@@TheWoodlandSteward the drive sprocket. since then i have ordered and waiting. they are back ordered on the screw for the washer. i noticed in your video the srive sprocket seems to come out easy after taking off the plastic piece
Your bars are wearing out, you should grease the little hole at the end of the bar when you fill the bar and chain oil, Oregon Grease Gun for Chainsaws
You like a toy electric saw because it just runs,yet here you ste tebuilding it. And you can buy a shit ton of gas for ehat justbone of those batteries costs. No thanks.
I don't have the electric saw to save money, although I'm not sure that it costs more to run. I like that it is quieter and doesn't idle while I am walking through the woods.
Great video, you took the time and explained, very good. Live my 40v dewalt chainsaw
Your video was a godsend. Having put a lot of hours on my saw, which I love, I was having many of the same issues as you. Last Friday we we hit hard by Hurricane Helene here near Kings Mountain, North Carolina. Thank God I had ordered me needed parts several weeks ago, and used your video to overhaul my saw today. Now it’s almost as good as new and made shirt work of the first of many newly felled tree on our place. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Great video. Very well done. 2 suggestions: 1) the bar sprocket requires grease. Oregon has a grease pusher on Amazon.
2) when cutting a suspended log, cut a 1/3 slice from the bottom prior to cutting the top. Your chainsaw blade will not get squeezed and jammed.
When the trunk is suspended from both ends, the reverse is applicable thus : top first then bottom.
Thanks!
I got the same saw today. And my cat is just exactly the sam as yours. They must be sisters.
This video was a big help! Thank you!
I didn't know DeWalt updated the cover design to remove that silly ratcheting handle that never let you tighten the bar enough.
Both the inner and outer cover were damaged on my saw due to the cover always working loose.
I've replaced both now thanks to this video! Appreciate it!
Other than that, this is a really nice saw. Brushed out a lot of trees and put up a lot of firewood with it.
Also had mine for 3 years, gers used everyday for general logging, still going strong, original 9amh battery been re-charged over 1000 times, but it still did 73 6x6 cuts in semi hardwood the other day..
Best £500 I've spent in many years.
I'll also be getting new side plates, cos it does seem the early one was a bit of an iffy design, my bat clamp comes undone while I'm cutting..
My batteries seem to be giving up the ghost. I've heard that I shouldn't wear them down completely. I tend to run them until they're dead.
Buy yourself a tip-greaser and grease the tip every time you add more chain oil. See the comment by Mark Thomas. You will not need a new bar ever again. No grease and you will fry the bearings, and the tip wheel will be able to go off center - sink in. Good video. I had bought a new plate too. Fried because I could not fully tighten the bar - bad design. Then I noticed that a new cover would not have the ratcheting, so that I could properly tighten the bar, so I bought that too. Good to see they are fixing the problems, and have a better design. Now I have my eye on the new DCCS677Z1. Holding out for a two 60V battery for 120VDC with 36 inch bar version... I may have to build it myself from a drive unit from one of their two-battery chop-saws, put into a big old chainsaw with the engine removed. PS no need to remove the long screw on the handle. Whatever.
Like Kris Rubin, my saw is not oiling and would appreciate a video on that subject. Your video was very informative. Nuts/bolts, we know what you meant.
Awesome job explaining it. I just bought one was doing a video exept the chain keeps popping off. I see why now, thank you the scoop on it!!!
Thanks!
Thanks for your review. I relate to your videos because I manage our forested land in south central Virginia, mainly killing the same invasives that you're dealing with. Stiltgrass is my main target recently, however Asian grapevine, Japanese honeysuckle, tree-of-heaven, oriental bittersweet, garlic mustard, multiflora rose, and autumn olive are of equal concern and get dealt with accordingly. Good luck with your fight. I know it's daunting, because I live it every day like you do.
We are currently shifting focus from Garlic Mustard to Japanese Stilt Grass. I never have to worry about job security! Thanks for your work encouraging native plant communities.
I had the same sprocket washer problem. Thankfully, when I discovered it, I had a washer in the field that worked well.
This is a good video. I'm an experienced chin saw user and have lived them since I was a toddler and I can say nothing negative about this video. While the commenter isn't wrong when it comes to using the saws felling dogs as a fulcrum point and neglecting to do so may be a big factor in the sprocket failures - however what was said in the video regarding the large percentage of low to the ground brush cutting being some of the worst of the common cutting conditions for chain/bar wear and tear is no overstatement. Also this kind of cutting is much more front of bar focused so it's very probable that those two factors are the biggest reasons for the sprocket failures.
Thanks!
In my saw, model DMC 575, I also put a petal-rubber washer under the screw that tightens the sprocket to press the stop washer, because without it it flies like a rag and the chain can cut into the space between the volume where it's better not to get in. Regards😊
Thanks!
I must have got the revised version, because mine came with the non-ratcheting tensioner. My only issue is the safety brake. I can't operate the saw without physically holding handguard/safety brake rearward. I'll have to rip into it and see what I can find. Other than that, I love the saw. It is really low maintenance and always ready.
The brake should hold in place. There is definitely something wrong there.
I have the 18-inch version and it works great. Flash Forward a couple years later I'm going to buy the new updated model my buddy has one and they fixed most of the flaws feels more like a gas chainsaw
Great video, I just bought my first DeWalt chainsaw. I was a bit apprehensive as I use Stihl and Husquvarna. LOVE IT! This saw exceeds all expectations. I cut mostly oak firewood and dead elm.
However, I need a good video on how to adjust or fix the safety brake. It engages for no reason. Thanks for the great video.
I have the same issue have you come across any solutions?
@@radicaltuesday6347 Not yet. I haven't used it in while. The saw started doing it on my last cutting. Now it's -3 and I'm just chillin until spring (no pun intended) and I'll work on it then. As I understand it, the brake can be adjusted. I watched a RUclips video on the break down.
@@radicaltuesday6347 Not yet. I haven't used it in while. The saw started doing it on my last cutting. Now it's -3 and I'm just chillin until spring (no pun intended) and I'll work on it then. As I understand it, the brake can be adjusted. I watched a RUclips video on the break down. Merry Christmas!
@@brucelangseth8566 merry Christmas to you too buddy!
Just picked up the DCCS670 (16"). Is there a way to defeat the plastic bar tightener to increase the torque there?
The lack of lube holes on the bar tip seems like a weakness. Have you looked at Oregon bars?
Any way to add metal dogs for better leverage, or would that stress the engine too much?
I will need to avoid pushing the dewalt like I do my old Stihl 024 when I need that top end power.
Main use is for opening quad trails for forestry work and layout. Bigger windfalls I leave for the loggers.
Red Flag days are a big issue around here so this helps with that too.
Thanks for the video - and STAY SAFE!
I bought the European version of this saw last year. one negative point, because of which the saw went for repair a month later and without a guarantee - a thorn broke through the window of the oil tank. I used hot melt adhesive, which I applied in a thick layer all over the oil tank window so that this would not happen again.
I'm having the same issue about to replace my unit now. Tnks.
This was a wonderful video. Thank you. As a sidenote, I also seem to have not noticed/lost the bolt and washer that got holds the sprocket… 😊
You're welcome!
There should be a pin hole on the bar for a place to grease the sprocket on the bar. I think I see it in the video. They make a small grease gun to use on it.
I will check into that. Thanks!
I have this saw [DeWalt 16"], but I am having trouble with bar oil leaking. Do you have any suggestions.
alot of people put a o ring on the oil cap. theres reviews on amazon showing it. its typical on these to leak if yiu set it down with the oil cap up it wont leak
Mine leaks from the bar. I keep it in an aluminum pan when horizontal, or hang it up with the scabbard on so that the scabbard collects the oil. It's not that much oil as long as its not dripping onto something important.
Have you had the dreaded bar oil leak that the 670 can have? Seems that some people have the issue, others do not. Since new even before use, the saw will leak bar oil just sitting on the shelf.
To be honest, every saw that I own, both electric and gas, leaks oil while sitting on the shelf. I keep the gas ones in an aluminum roasting pan, and the electric I hang up with the scabbard on so that any leaked oil is caught in the scabbard.
Very good video I would love to get one of those
Has anyone done a video on replacing the oil filter? I'm hoping that mine is clogged, and cleaning or a new one will allow the oil to flow again. I will try to clean the existing one before I invest the $1.23 for a new one. I think I just need to fish the tube out through the oil container opening, but a quick video on how to clean or replace the oil filter would be nice. I guess I'll have to do that myself too... Or I've given you a good video idea! :)
The dimple at the bar end at the gear is for a needle greasing tip. Clean it carefully with some brake or carb cleaner. Try to get some synthetic grease & getsome Lube in there & your sprocket won’t die. Your bar by observation has very little wear.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi there just took mine apart to replace a sprocket and some other parts like you I noticed I have some little sponges in the mechanism for the guard that pulls back and goes forward I did not see you having those in there mine are filthy of course with oil and dirt also wondering you put that one Parton device and how did you knock out that knob deal did you just like knock it out
I don't remember any sponges, and I'm pretty sure it just knocked out.
Would like to know if your Bar/Chain oil leaks or dribbles out when the saw is not being used. Believe Dewalt needs to check on this since their other models don't seem to have this issue.
Every saw I have ever had dribbled bar oil when in storage. I keep them in an aluminum tray to collect the oil. I used to hang them (with the slot on the back of the handle) with the scabbard in place to collect the oil.
I talked to a guy who services Milwaukee and DeWalt tools at authorized repair center. I Asked him do the DeWalt cordless chainsaws have pumps in them for chainsaw bar oil?. Answer from DeWalt authorized repair technician No oil pump for bar oil, the oil reservoir just leaks oil on the chain all the time that's how it works. Thanks for the e-commerce repair pards tip, I need to buy some parts for my DeWalt saw, busted off my chain brake lever yesterday.
wow!!! i have the same story as you with the missing washer ! i bought it iff a buddy 2 years ago and not sure if i got it without the screw and washer or if i forgot about it. but i now need to replace the sprocket since its now trashed and wont hold the chain. now i need to tune it up. seems like your bideo should help me out with the parts source also. any other tips or tricks appreciated
Hope it is useful!
My DeWalt sprocket bolt failed multiple times. Usually the bolt would come loose. I also did thread locker, but then the bolt sheared off inside the sprocket. I've had my DeWalt 4 years now. That sprocket and bolt are the weakest link. 😢
Excellent video especially for us women 😁
Great video, I'm on the fench about buying the new 20inch bar Dewalt saw, 677 last digits. I noticed you said you replaced bar and was wondering did you grease the nose roller? there is a tiny hole to do this at roller. In my experience it saves them from seizing. Cheers from Nova Scotia
I've never grease the roller. I will consider that. I've seen people use that hole for a length guide for cutting fire wood.
How does the oiler work on the dewalt chainsaw 60 volt with 16 inch chain
Very informative video. I have a DCCS620 that has similar components and this will be a big help if I have future trouble with it. I'm considering upgrading to the 670. Thanks!
I find the 60 volt definitely has more power than the 20 volt. (Not surprisingly!)
@@TheWoodlandSteward Got the 670. Haven't used it yet. Too cold out. LOL Thanks again.
My 60v 16" shot some sparks. I noticed that the drive gear ( washer and screw ) were missing. They must have fallen out. It's a $5.00 part.
I think they fall off too easily!
do you think the 12AH or 15 AH battery will fit? I just bought this saw and am looking to buy a secondary battery
I would look into it more, but I think the biggest you can fit in the 16" saw is the 9AH.
Good vid...chainsaws are made tocut more efficiently by putting your bar all the up on tree in other words where possible you want motor against tree so to speak. That does 2 things. It keeps saw from pulling on your arms and shoulders and also cut faster by getting better bite on wood. The way you are cutting is reason sprocket on tip of bar is worn out. You are pinching end of bar. - Forester for 35 yrs.😉
You can feel the difference when you snug the housing up to what you’re cutting. Saves battery, although sometimes you don’t have the space. I have this saw and I use it clear trail. If you use it properly it’s an impressive little saw. Most of the folks that review this thing don’t seem to understand chainsaws in general. I have a “big saw” 372xp for heavy work but I reach for this DeWalt most of the time. It’s just so convenient.
Thanks! I will keep that in mind.
@@coryviolette8622 What tickles me is some of these yters are going back and forth with the chainsaw like it's a crosscut saw our grandfathers used😃 I have worn out several huskies and stihls. My go to saw is my Dewalt!!!
My bolt broke off inside the sprocket and I don't know how to get it out without damaging the threads that holds the sprocket
What is the part number for the washer and the bolt that is on front of the sprocket
The bolt (M5x8.5 Left-Handed) is 90639221, The washer is 90618229
Thanks for the video. I was wondering what file size you use for that chain?
11/64 stock chain
Put grease into the little hole in the bar, that is located near the axle of the sprocket !
Thank you, very good information.
have you heard of snyone replacing the sprocket ?
The drive sprocket or the bar sprocket?
@@TheWoodlandSteward the drive sprocket. since then i have ordered and waiting. they are back ordered on the screw for the washer. i noticed in your video the srive sprocket seems to come out easy after taking off the plastic piece
Where do you get the parts
Your bars are wearing out, you should grease the little hole at the end of the bar when you fill the bar and chain oil, Oregon Grease Gun for Chainsaws
WARNING WARNING WARNING - DO NOT USE 60V Flexvolt batteries in the DCCS620 or DCCS620B Chainsaw (the 20v 12inch chainsaw). IT WILL KILL THE MOTOR.
Or maybe the line is kinked! Just found this video: ruclips.net/video/C7dE_jsUxlQ/видео.html
i dont think your email is working
I don't know which one you tried, but try this one. TheWoodlandSteward@gmail.com
You like a toy electric saw because it just runs,yet here you ste tebuilding it. And you can buy a shit ton of gas for ehat justbone of those batteries costs. No thanks.
I don't have the electric saw to save money, although I'm not sure that it costs more to run.
I like that it is quieter and doesn't idle while I am walking through the woods.
Ear protection...yeah sure. For what? A brushless electric motor!? yada yada yada.
Don't be such a ... weakling.
Ditto@dlkline27! Really says it all.