Great video, is there any possibility you could show more close-up view/details when moving the wires around the motherboard? I can't see exactly what you're working on and that end of things is fiddly. Thanks.
Hi Kate, thank you so much for your comment. This is something I am struggling with, firstly as a "one-man-band" I need to do it all and also equipment, ie more cameras, is expensive. I will certainly try to run more b-roll if I can, usually though, that means doing the same job 3 times. The first to make sure I know what I am doing to demonstrate it efficiently, second to record, then a third to record the B-Roll. I will certainly try harder in the future.
Thanks for your very good video! I want to share with you something I've saw with my Ender 3. I had E1 error in a very erratic way since two weeks ago. I'm pretty new with printers. Looking to this video, to change my thermistor I have found something interesting: I think that the white stuff surrounding the thermistor is thermal grease that becomes similar to melt plastic because high temperatures with time. If you take off the old grease and use new thermal grease it will work very well if the thermistor IS IN GOOD CONDITIONS. With a syringe, the work is quite easy. The reason is that thermistor can vary too much the signal when it has no full thermal contact with the metal block (the variation of the resistence is exponential!). In my case, temp start to jump in erratic ways as the head moves. That's because the movement provokes bad thermal contact. Sorry for my very bad english. Cheers from Argentina!
Hello again. I replaced the motherboard on my Ender 3 3D printer with the Creality V4.2.7 motherboard. The issue now is that the Fans (Thermistor and Motherboard) keep shutting down after I've set the fan Speed to 100% and I have to replace the Thermistor again . Any thoughts? Also, the Settings which is where I set the fan speed isn't taking causing the fan shut down.
Good video, I recently purchased a thermistor and heating element but they don't have plugs. is there a negative wire or can i connect a plug both ways?
That is interesting. I too updated my firmware when I installed a CR touch and within a few mins of printing my thermal runway error also appeared. Does it mean my previous firmware was unsafely ignoring the thermal runway? Hmmm. Upon closer inspection of the thermistor the wire was poking out of the sheathe where the screw was holding it to the hot end. Also great tip with the cable using the old thermistor to pull the new one thru.
I took the silicon style flexible cube shaped thing off my ender hot end to unblock a filament snap off in there and got this alert all the time until I put the silicon sleave back on my direct drive printing nozzle. so you might be able to try that too, it worked for me.
My old thermistor broke and I went to remove it, it wouldn’t come out. I tried heating it up and then removing it, but the wires snapped and to glass bead is still deep inside the hot end. I don’t know what to do. Should I put the new thermistor in with the old glass bead thing thermistor still in the hot end ?
Hi, that is a difficult question, I would use a drill bit that is a little bit smaller than the hole, don't put the drill bit into a machine, just do it by hand to clean out the hole.
Great video Makes it easy for me to change the thermistor HOWEVER I'm finding that my thermistor is burning out (Literally) to the point I replaced it 2 times today when it burnt out on me and I got the runaway pls reset the printer. what solution is there for the Thermistor needing to replace every print (in my case) they may not be expensive but it builds up.
Hi George, thank you for your comment. I honestly am not sure what this issue could be, I will post it on my forums and see what reply I get. To me, though, it sounds like it could be a main board issue. A relatively cheap solution is to put in a BTT board and it is a significant upgrade to the original board if you have an Ender 3. I hope this helps
@@FusionSource Thanks. I think you may be right about it being a motherboard issue After the 2d thermistor blew I noticed that the fan for the motherboard wasn't working so I ordered a new one along with more Thermistors from Amazon. I will keep you posted if this fixes the issue. Again Thanks for your reply and assistance.
I have been having an issue with my printer reaching the print temps of 200 and up Fahrenheit. It gets to about 170 then slows down heavily to heat up. I then get the thermal runway E1 error.. just replaced my thermistor and same issue?
I have a thermistor that is far too long and I need to chop it shorter and put new JST crimps on it for the connector , am I correct in thinking the polarity does not matter?
Hi. Been suffering this since I changed my nozzle over. Couldn't figure out why I kept getting it. Turns out I didn't realise the little bit of wire goes into the small hole underneath where the screw goes in. Have done this and it seems to be printing great now. Many thanks for this.
More closeups for sure. Thanks, you may have saved me from returning a brand new Creality CR-10. It had thermal runaway on it's maiden print. I tried to print the cat and it quit 1/5 of the way up. I will check all this before returning it.
Many seconds after I put my printer (Ender 3) on, start a terrible "beep" and a message apear at the display ... Error E1, could be any short circuit on the themal sensor ?
Hi Jose, sounds like you may have a short, try unplugging the sensor from the main board and see if it helps, then get a new thermistor, plug it in before installing and see if that helps.
I just installed TH3D on my CR10 mini motherboard and had the same thermal problems. The thermistor was working perfectly fine before the firmware update, I don't get it. Can you tell us the model number of your spare thermistors
Hi, check this video first ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html and check your wiring. If all else fails, the thermistor I used was a THERMISTOR 100K 1% NTC PRE-WIRED from DIY Electronics, www.diyelectronics.co.za/store/thermistors/630-thermistor-100k-1-ntc-pre-wired.html?search_query=thermistor&results=155
I ran into a couple issues. The primary one is that there's this heat-proof tape tightly wrapping the wires together where they touch my hotend. In order to get enough slack to replace the thermistor, I'd have to cut this tape, and I don't have anything (or even know what kind it is) to replace it with. The other issue is that I'm working with an ender 3 v2 neo and The plug end of my replacement thermistor doesn't look like yours, so I'm not entirely sure that I'm putting it on correctly. I've looked at lots of other videos showing the replacment for my specific models, but they all show printers where the stock hotend has already been replaced with an upgrade, and the heat-proof tape is gone so I'm back to my first issue. Can anyone help here?
Hi, it should be safe to remove that tape, I think it is probably Kapton Tape, you will not need to replace the tape, just make sure the wires are handled neatly.
Try doing one on an Artillery printer, absolute nightmare trying to get the old thermistor out. Easier just to replace heat block and all at once. Can't wait to change to a better extruder just have to work out which one amongst the hundreds on offer lol. Thanks for the video mate.
Yeah, the replacement can have a slightly different plug but it does fit. You can either use it as it is, as I did, or you can try joining the cables with the original plug, but that is a bit of a waste of time.
Help! I took my nozzle off my printer and turned it on and it gave me the E1 failure after that. I put it all back together re did the firmware and now I still get the same error. Will replacing the thermistor make this error go away or do I need to replace the thermistor then go back into the firmware?
Hi, replacing the thermistor should fix the problem, I suggest doing a PID update after replacing the thermistor. I likely got damaged with removing the head.
Ordered a 5 pack of thermistors from Amazon for my Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0; should be here later today...the thermistor is definitely clogged in its space by PLA. Can that cause Thermal Runaway errors? Everything on my printer is stock...
In Canada, got mine HERE! From what I can gather, it needs to be a 100K Ohm(not 10k ohm) and 24v: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08574FVD4 , I also own an Ender 3 (not pro, not v2)
In most cases the problem is a white powder residue on the thermistor. Just pull it out and clean the white powder off and blow out the hole, then reassemble. It's that easy. This happens a few weeks to few months after getting a new Ender 3. Just depends on how much you use it. Occam's razor, the simplest solution is usually the correct one.
@@remixerbec if this doesn't work for some reason. like you have a bad thermistor. Do not buy an original replacement glass bead type. get the upgrade screw in type thermistor for the ender 3. it works much better and will last for years. Amazon has them.
for anyone who's confused by the motherboard side I'll try to explain it the best I can... so you'll have to flip the printer on it's side to get to the motherboard and there's gonna be two short screws and a long one keeping the bottom plate on, and one more short one on top under the bed. (I'm referring to the bottom of the box that you put the micro sd card in) once you get in there you'll need to tug on old thermistor to figure out which wire it is. (for me it was the furthest one from the hole where the wires come in) mine was hot glued in so I had to carefully cut it out with an xacto knife. simply thread through the new thermistor and plug it into the same spot and you should be good to go... hope this helps
i'm mad. just got this as second printer and the temp on the screen fluxuates so much and can't maintain 200 and halts every so often. ruined a huge dragon.
I had to record this twice, most of the video was shot on my own. I then got my son to come in, use the same cellphone to record the "B-Roll" but was difficult to do it all again. I do have some better equipment now, hopefully I can do better in the future. Thanks for the comment though, there is always room for improvement.
@@FusionSource I’m sorry I should’ve started with how much I enjoyed and learned from the video because I really did. I appreciate you doing it, I definitely gained some helpful tips.
@@ShowStopper1569 Hey man, no worries, I appreciate a good constructive criticism and I appreciate your encouragement. I am glad this video did help you but for sure, my productions need more polish.
I hope this fixes my issue. I installed the Ender direct drive update and promptly got a thermal runaway. Replaced the original hardware and immediately it went away
If the area is too cold, it has a problem maintaining temperature, especially near the edge. I build a plywood box with 2 polycarbonate windows and mine never fails now.
Hi, I need help, my temp display move every second without heating. The temp move from 0 to 25 degrees and from 26 to higher AL the time. I upload a new marlin and the issue is the same. The temp change for the heatbed and the nozzle at the same time. Can some one help me. My card is skr v1. 4 turbo
Apologies for that, I am a one man band, I have to handle all aspects, lighting, filming , audio, editing and I personally pay for all the equipment, it is not easy but will try do better
Thanks for this video 😬 I was getting random thermal runaway, tried 'M303' autotune to reconfigure Turns out it was the Thermistor had a slightly frayed wire ... Bought a new one, replaced it as you have instructed, it's now good as new 😃
@@FusionSource One thing I think would be good to note - Make sure to replace the zip-ties The thermistor broke again soon after replacing it, because (I think) without the zip-ties, there's too much movement on the wire near the end - Which eventually broke it with all the back and forth bending
@@FusionSource I had just replaced the motherboard and put all the cables in the right spot because I didn't want to have to break it down and send it back.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, is there any possibility you could show more close-up view/details when moving the wires around the motherboard? I can't see exactly what you're working on and that end of things is fiddly. Thanks.
Yes, good content, like your delivery, and would definitely enjoy a few more camera angles. 7:40
Hi Kate, thank you so much for your comment. This is something I am struggling with, firstly as a "one-man-band" I need to do it all and also equipment, ie more cameras, is expensive. I will certainly try to run more b-roll if I can, usually though, that means doing the same job 3 times. The first to make sure I know what I am doing to demonstrate it efficiently, second to record, then a third to record the B-Roll. I will certainly try harder in the future.
@@FusionSource Thank you, you've got a new subscriber
@@ericmartin1245 Thank you, Eric appreciate that
could I just snip off the thermistor at the hot end and just use a jst connector to make the new one easily removable?
I honestly don't see why not, this is a good idea.
Hi, Great video just wondering where I could find a replacement thermistor? Thanks
Where are you based?
Thanks for your very good video! I want to share with you something I've saw with my Ender 3. I had E1 error in a very erratic way since two weeks ago. I'm pretty new with printers. Looking to this video, to change my thermistor I have found something interesting: I think that the white stuff surrounding the thermistor is thermal grease that becomes similar to melt plastic because high temperatures with time. If you take off the old grease and use new thermal grease it will work very well if the thermistor IS IN GOOD CONDITIONS. With a syringe, the work is quite easy. The reason is that thermistor can vary too much the signal when it has no full thermal contact with the metal block (the variation of the resistence is exponential!). In my case, temp start to jump in erratic ways as the head moves. That's because the movement provokes bad thermal contact.
Sorry for my very bad english. Cheers from Argentina!
Hello again. I replaced the motherboard on my Ender 3 3D printer with the Creality V4.2.7 motherboard. The issue now is that the Fans (Thermistor and Motherboard) keep shutting down after I've set the fan Speed to 100% and I have to replace the Thermistor again . Any thoughts? Also, the Settings which is where I set the fan speed isn't taking causing the fan shut down.
Good video, I recently purchased a thermistor and heating element but they don't have plugs. is there a negative wire or can i connect a plug both ways?
That is interesting. I too updated my firmware when I installed a CR touch and within a few mins of printing my thermal runway error also appeared. Does it mean my previous firmware was unsafely ignoring the thermal runway? Hmmm. Upon closer inspection of the thermistor the wire was poking out of the sheathe where the screw was holding it to the hot end. Also great tip with the cable using the old thermistor to pull the new one thru.
I took the silicon style flexible cube shaped thing off my ender hot end to unblock a filament snap off in there and got this alert all the time until I put the silicon sleave back on my direct drive printing nozzle. so you might be able to try that too, it worked for me.
My old thermistor broke and I went to remove it, it wouldn’t come out. I tried heating it up and then removing it, but the wires snapped and to glass bead is still deep inside the hot end. I don’t know what to do. Should I put the new thermistor in with the old glass bead thing thermistor still in the hot end ?
Hi, that is a difficult question, I would use a drill bit that is a little bit smaller than the hole, don't put the drill bit into a machine, just do it by hand to clean out the hole.
@@FusionSource thanks for the help and the quick response
Great video Makes it easy for me to change the thermistor HOWEVER I'm finding that my thermistor is burning out (Literally) to the point I replaced it 2 times today when it burnt out on me and I got the runaway pls reset the printer. what solution is there for the Thermistor needing to replace every print (in my case) they may not be expensive but it builds up.
Hi George, thank you for your comment. I honestly am not sure what this issue could be, I will post it on my forums and see what reply I get. To me, though, it sounds like it could be a main board issue. A relatively cheap solution is to put in a BTT board and it is a significant upgrade to the original board if you have an Ender 3. I hope this helps
@@FusionSource Thanks. I think you may be right about it being a motherboard issue After the 2d thermistor blew I noticed that the fan for the motherboard wasn't working so I ordered a new one along with more Thermistors from Amazon. I will keep you posted if this fixes the issue. Again Thanks for your reply and assistance.
I have been having an issue with my printer reaching the print temps of 200 and up Fahrenheit. It gets to about 170 then slows down heavily to heat up. I then get the thermal runway E1 error.. just replaced my thermistor and same issue?
Hi, please look at this video and let me know if it helps: ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
@@FusionSource I am a moron. It was the insulating piece that goes on the nozzle head I removed when unboxing! Now she prints. Just need to calibrate
I have a thermistor that is far too long and I need to chop it shorter and put new JST crimps on it for the connector , am I correct in thinking the polarity does not matter?
That is correct, no polarity
One of the cable was broken.I would like to learn that two cables touching each other or not inside the thermistor capsule
Hi. Been suffering this since I changed my nozzle over. Couldn't figure out why I kept getting it. Turns out I didn't realise the little bit of wire goes into the small hole underneath where the screw goes in. Have done this and it seems to be printing great now. Many thanks for this.
So glad it helped
9:13 the hardest thing to do. Can't get it done with big fingers.
Yeah, I so agree, you could use long nose pliers or tweezers but carefully. I hope this video helped you.
More closeups for sure. Thanks, you may have saved me from returning a brand new Creality CR-10. It had thermal runaway on it's maiden print. I tried to print the cat and it quit 1/5 of the way up. I will check all this before returning it.
Replaced the whole hot end and wires still getting this do u know what else it could be ?
Hi Yung, have you tried this? ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
Many seconds after I put my printer (Ender 3) on, start a terrible "beep" and a message apear at the display ... Error E1, could be any short circuit on the themal sensor ?
Hi Jose, sounds like you may have a short, try unplugging the sensor from the main board and see if it helps, then get a new thermistor, plug it in before installing and see if that helps.
Thank you so so much. I can now finish printing my MK Scorpion mask to continue my video tutorials. You're the best. Merry Christmas.
Glad I could help!
@@FusionSource where/what brand thermistor? There’s a bunch on Amazon and I just want to drop a new one in
So my hot end won't hear up yet the thermistor works as tested with a hair dryer and just replaced the motherboard any suggestions what to do
Thanks for this video! I tore my hotend apart for the first time and put the thermistor back on incorrectly. You bailed me out. 👍👍
Glad it helped
Im having issues with a bran new unit is this normal for a bran new unit
Hey David, try doing a PID calibration, watch this video:
ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
I just installed TH3D on my CR10 mini motherboard and had the same thermal problems. The thermistor was working perfectly fine before the firmware update, I don't get it. Can you tell us the model number of your spare thermistors
Hi, check this video first ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html and check your wiring. If all else fails, the thermistor I used was a THERMISTOR 100K 1% NTC PRE-WIRED from DIY Electronics, www.diyelectronics.co.za/store/thermistors/630-thermistor-100k-1-ntc-pre-wired.html?search_query=thermistor&results=155
I have the same problem after I installed th3d firmware on my anet a8 plus
I ran into a couple issues. The primary one is that there's this heat-proof tape tightly wrapping the wires together where they touch my hotend. In order to get enough slack to replace the thermistor, I'd have to cut this tape, and I don't have anything (or even know what kind it is) to replace it with. The other issue is that I'm working with an ender 3 v2 neo and The plug end of my replacement thermistor doesn't look like yours, so I'm not entirely sure that I'm putting it on correctly. I've looked at lots of other videos showing the replacment for my specific models, but they all show printers where the stock hotend has already been replaced with an upgrade, and the heat-proof tape is gone so I'm back to my first issue. Can anyone help here?
Hi, it should be safe to remove that tape, I think it is probably Kapton Tape, you will not need to replace the tape, just make sure the wires are handled neatly.
Good method, firts time doing it and it worked well.
where did you plug the thermistor to printer?
In the same spot where the damaged thermistor was plugged into.
@@FusionSource so you need to open the pcb?
Try doing one on an Artillery printer, absolute nightmare trying to get the old thermistor out. Easier just to replace heat block and all at once. Can't wait to change to a better extruder just have to work out which one amongst the hundreds on offer lol. Thanks for the video mate.
Hey
Thanks for this.
My replacement thermistor has a different connector to my original. What do you think I should do?
Yeah, the replacement can have a slightly different plug but it does fit. You can either use it as it is, as I did, or you can try joining the cables with the original plug, but that is a bit of a waste of time.
@@FusionSource I ended up cutting the wires and changing the connectors before I saw this. Everything is working … for now.
Thank you
Help! I took my nozzle off my printer and turned it on and it gave me the E1 failure after that. I put it all back together re did the firmware and now I still get the same error. Will replacing the thermistor make this error go away or do I need to replace the thermistor then go back into the firmware?
Hi, replacing the thermistor should fix the problem, I suggest doing a PID update after replacing the thermistor. I likely got damaged with removing the head.
I did everything as per the video, now the printer is going straight to an overheat error as soon as it’s turned on, please help?
Hi Joe, please run the PID configuration as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
Let me know if you have any other issues, is the temperature registering on the display?
Also verify all your connections are correct and secure
@@FusionSource I found the fault, I had over tightened the screw, I just backed it off a tad & now is all good.
Thanks for your time & video
Awesome, glad to hear
Thanks, I was overly concerned with snapping my thermistor under the Phillips during a hotend upgrade
i just got my 3d printer and after the first two prints i have to change it?!?!
Thanks Eugene. Very useful.
Thanks John, appreciate the comment
Ordered a 5 pack of thermistors from Amazon for my Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0; should be here later today...the thermistor is definitely clogged in its space by PLA. Can that cause Thermal Runaway errors? Everything on my printer is stock...
I know this isn't related, but i just wanna say your intro is beautiful XD
Thank you so much.
From where do I buy a thermistor that is compatible with my ender 3?
In Canada, got mine HERE! From what I can gather, it needs to be a 100K Ohm(not 10k ohm) and 24v: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08574FVD4 , I also own an Ender 3 (not pro, not v2)
Mine is brand new and it keeps saying heating failed printer halted please reset.
Check the thermistor is plugged in properly and do a PID calibration, check my video on this channel
thanks for that. It will help me 😉
Pleasure, thank you for taking the time to comment, really appreciated
In most cases the problem is a white powder residue on the thermistor. Just pull it out and clean the white powder off and blow out the hole, then reassemble. It's that easy. This happens a few weeks to few months after getting a new Ender 3. Just depends on how much you use it. Occam's razor, the simplest solution is usually the correct one.
Trying this now!!
@@remixerbec if this doesn't work for some reason. like you have a bad thermistor. Do not buy an original replacement glass bead type. get the upgrade screw in type thermistor for the ender 3. it works much better and will last for years. Amazon has them.
Read this after I cut the wires and now can't get it back. The design on this is a poor design if the screw is too hard to get back in the hole.
for anyone who's confused by the motherboard side I'll try to explain it the best I can... so you'll have to flip the printer on it's side to get to the motherboard and there's gonna be two short screws and a long one keeping the bottom plate on, and one more short one on top under the bed. (I'm referring to the bottom of the box that you put the micro sd card in) once you get in there you'll need to tug on old thermistor to figure out which wire it is. (for me it was the furthest one from the hole where the wires come in) mine was hot glued in so I had to carefully cut it out with an xacto knife. simply thread through the new thermistor and plug it into the same spot and you should be good to go... hope this helps
Thanks for the explanation
i'm mad. just got this as second printer and the temp on the screen fluxuates so much and can't maintain 200 and halts every so often. ruined a huge dragon.
Close up views of the detail work you’re doing would be super helpful!
I had to record this twice, most of the video was shot on my own. I then got my son to come in, use the same cellphone to record the "B-Roll" but was difficult to do it all again. I do have some better equipment now, hopefully I can do better in the future. Thanks for the comment though, there is always room for improvement.
@@FusionSource I’m sorry I should’ve started with how much I enjoyed and learned from the video because I really did. I appreciate you doing it, I definitely gained some helpful tips.
@@ShowStopper1569 Hey man, no worries, I appreciate a good constructive criticism and I appreciate your encouragement. I am glad this video did help you but for sure, my productions need more polish.
Hi I would I k ow which one to get?
I hope this fixes my issue. I installed the Ender direct drive update and promptly got a thermal runaway. Replaced the original hardware and immediately it went away
Hi, did you come right?
Can you make one with fixing the heatbed thermal runaway? I fixed my nozzle hotend thermastat
thanks to you!
If the area is too cold, it has a problem maintaining temperature, especially near the edge. I build a plywood box with 2 polycarbonate windows and mine never fails now.
My geeetech A20 3d printer has the same error as well
I don't have a screw can it just sit inside there without one
I would not, if your printer is not setup with thermal runaway, it could cause a fire. Is there no screw hole, or is the screw missing?
@@FusionSource I think I just figured it out the screw goes in the top with the cables rather side the the senceor goes below
@@1937Brett Great, I hope the video helped.
@@FusionSource thank you for the quick reply
How far do I put in the sensor to the heat block?
Hi, I need help, my temp display move every second without heating.
The temp move from 0 to 25 degrees and from 26 to higher AL the time.
I upload a new marlin and the issue is the same. The temp change for the heatbed and the nozzle at the same time.
Can some one help me.
My card is skr v1. 4 turbo
Have you tried replacing the Thermistor, they are rather delicate and could get damaged. They are very cheap and relatively easy to replace.
@@FusionSource no, I didn't, but both of bed and nozzle have the same problem. At same time...
Thanks Eugene, short en brief. Now i'm waiting for the PID video. Good job.
Thanks Hans, the PID video can be found here ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
@@FusionSource Yep, found it. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this video new to printing and this has been so helpful
What, you show hardly no close ups, I have no idea what your doing. Please explain better
Apologies for that, I am a one man band, I have to handle all aspects, lighting, filming , audio, editing and I personally pay for all the equipment, it is not easy but will try do better
Thanks for this video 😬
I was getting random thermal runaway, tried 'M303' autotune to reconfigure
Turns out it was the Thermistor had a slightly frayed wire ...
Bought a new one, replaced it as you have instructed, it's now good as new 😃
Glad it helped ;-)
@@FusionSource One thing I think would be good to note - Make sure to replace the zip-ties
The thermistor broke again soon after replacing it, because (I think) without the zip-ties, there's too much movement on the wire near the end - Which eventually broke it with all the back and forth bending
I put a black tape between the sensor / screw and solve this issue...
Has it been holding up?
No way that will work, the tape will melt.
I replaced the thermistor and it shows err: maxtemp.....
It sounds like it is not making proper connection. Also is it the correct thermistor for your machine, the resistance could be different.
thank you!
You're welcome!
just saying its a little more work but after cutting the zip ties and opening the bottom to the board i used machanics wire to run the wire
Ugh I replaced both the bed and head therm and it still gets the error :(
ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html check out that video to do you PID settings, that should fix it.
@@FusionSource still have the issue but I didn't get any movement on the graph when attempting the tuning. So is my hot end sensor not working?
nice video of your power supply
Great Advice. Thanks
I just bought my 3d printer back in December 2022 and I had 2 main problems: it gets stuck and thermal runaway. It's not even that old.
Hi Justin, check your PID settings, here is a link to a video ruclips.net/video/3K3yf04do28/видео.html
@@FusionSource ok
@@FusionSource I had just replaced the motherboard and put all the cables in the right spot because I didn't want to have to break it down and send it back.
Super helpful video! Very easy to follow, thank you!
See All My Videos: ruclips.net/user/FusionSource
The senceor part
you blocked the entire process of changing the cable!
Apologies, will try do better, need to get more studio equipment
This is not a "great video" are you kidding me...he does everything out of view...you can't see what he is doing...thumbs down
Thanks for the comment, I will try improve on this. I really need to try get more camera angles in the "Studio", will try do better.
Not very good. Too much talk. Did not show other end of thermistor.
Thank you for the comment, will try to do better
Out-f######-standing.
I fix one problem with my printer and another interesting problem (this one) comes up