Installing Mitsubishi Pajero Rear Shelving
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- This video is intended to show how I designed the shelving and slides in my Pajero to work. Inspiration in case you're planning to make your own or are having trouble sleeping. More details in full description.
0:00 A 2014 (MY15) Pajero. Base model diesel NX, no rear speakers or subwoofer.
0:06 Das Floorhole.
This is where the third-row seats hide away if you have them. The empty compartment is far more useful than children. The lid can be folded open or entirely removed. The compartment is just the right size for a trolley-load of shopping and is the ideal spot for stashing your toolbox, rain jacket and canvas bags. • Tim Minchin - Canvas Bags . I like my floorhole.
0:21 Preparing the cargo barrier.
0:41 Installing the cargo barrier (and regretting not putting on a better-fitting pair of jeans).
0:51 Label all the things. The plastic-headed bolts came with the car. The gold-passivated ones are after market.
1:23 The top arms of the barrier slide up and down for adaptability. A zip-tie holding them at the top gives you a tiny bit more luggage space because trigonometry exists.
1:27 P/N: MR935379
1:33 This is where the third-row seats normally attach to the body and hinge around on the silver mounts. The gold bolts are in factory threaded holes.
1:44 That blue clip is supposed to be stopping the interior from rattling. I suspect the roof-rack installers had nothing to do with it being broken.
1:50 Since those mounts are already there and well engineered, we might as well make use of them. Better than mashing up the interior.
1:55 The slides. I needed the one on the right to be a fridge slide. To maximise load space and flexibility, it made sense to make the on eon the left a slide too. A drawer would also be heavier.
2:22 As it is, these are plenty heavy enough. Installation is a pain the shins, hamstrings and lower back.
2:45 The runners are “Goliath 600mm Extra Heavy Duty Lockable Drawer Slide Pair” from Bunnings. I/N: 4021075. 600mm is just the right draw for the size of my fridge (Dometic CFF 45) to clear the top shelf when extended while maximising access to the glorious floorhole.
3:10 17mm.
3:33 Installing the rear bolts. These hold down both the slides and the bottom of the cargo barrier. Not sure if these are factory bolt holes or part of the cage option but asymmetry makes me think the latter.
3:57 My useless left hand being shit at life.
4:12 My talented right hand realising that the cage mounts must be on top for this to work.
4:51 Installing the left leg for the upper shelf. Note to self: it’s the right leg that goes in first.
5:27 The shelf ironically lives on top of its contents.
5:43 The shelf. Marine carpet (Bunnings) keeps most things from sliding around. Get the rubber-backed stuff. The kind that’s fluff on both sides will cost you a fortune in contact cement.
6:14 Installing the shelf. See, I told you the right leg goes in first.
6:51 The shittest bolt of the whole job, torqued to AvE-spec.
7:30 Presentating too early.
7:38 The back of the shelf clamps through the cage for support. Practically all weight is on the legs, this is mainly for stability.
7:58 The bottom arms (legs?) of the cargo barrier also slide but side to side.
8:25 Probably should have just welded the bolts to the clamping bar.
9:07 The finished assembly.
9:51 Aforementioned Dometic CFF45 from Snowy’s. I love Snowy’s.
9:58 This is the only good reason to own a skateboard (one take, no practice).
10:14 Commitments.
10:45 Phenylalanine.
11:18 Installing the fridge.
11:36 It has 4x M6 threaded holes for securing it in place. This is the shit way to try and use them.
11:57 I haven’t settled on suitably funny names for the sharp-implement and electrical-tat drawers yet. Suggestions welcome.
12:03 Making a better solution.
12:42 x4
13:44 The fridge is great but the cover was clearly designed in a different building.
14:02 Cable management.
14:23 This plug is on the main battery but runs through a low-voltage breaker. The fridge also has it’s own battery protection.
14:37 These furry blocks elevate the crate enough to clear the runners. I would have have liked to make the left slide slightly wider instead but this works.
14:50 The two top crates clear the high-mount brake light by millimetres.
14:52 Artisanal, hand-crafted octopus straps. 6mm Solcor shock cord from Bunnings (I/N: 4316481) shits all over the Grunt multi-core variety.
14:54 Shock cord buttons (I/N: 3950204). Cheap, compact and don’t cut you.
15:08 Fully loaded with all the shit.
Many hours went into measuring and planning. Comparatively few into welding and painting.
Find the project on my website: petercharlton.com.au/projects...
Drawings available here: petercharlton.com.au/wp-conte...
Far too many photos by viewer request: petercharlton.com.au/shed/paj...
I'm not an engineer. Use your brain. 
Авто/Мото
This is a very clever design for the Pajero. I think elevating that bottom platform is brilliant so you can still access the space at the botto where the 3rd rear seats used to be hidden. Thanks for the idea mate. Brilliant and Nice !
Thanks!
Yes, I really wanted to be able to use the under floor space still, otherwise I might have considered an off the shelf option.
Bloody brilliant. Will have a good crack at making a version of this. Love the no monologue video :)
@@bluewh thanks!
I put my drawings in the video description. Just note, they are for a factory five-seat model. 7 seaters need slightly longer seat-latch mounts, and the outer diameter of the tube needs to be no more than 20mm.
This top shelf was exactly what I was looking for. Now to get the tools out and make it. Great work, and thanks so much for sharing!
Thanks! The drawings and dimensions are in the video description if you want specifics. I did end up trimming the curves a little more than what's shown but it's pretty close.
I used 20mm stitching screws to attach the leg sockets to the shelf. Just short enough with the thickness of the steel added to that of the timber.
DUDE!
I have been scratching my head for about 2 years on working out the best way to make slides and still have access to the bottom. AWESOME Video and thank you for the plans on how to make it. Very well, thought out design. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks! That's very gratifying to hear :)
If you end up making some for yourself post a link up here :)
@@LongPeter an ask what length the the slides are? Are they 700mm Heavy duty?
Sorry, just read the instructions lol
@@ryanjohnson3653 no worries :)
Yeah, 600mm seemed to be the best balance for creating a usably large gap for accessing the floor hole while also a useful amount of throw. Just enough for my fridge lid to clear the top shelf.
Remember to get the locking version.
Have spent ages looking at ways to modify my NT Pajero as no aftermarket for what is a very basic “off roader. Came across your video and will set out to construct my own using your plans. Have the sub woofer but will work around that. Thanks Peter
Thanks for the comment!
From what I can see in photos, it doesn't look like the subwoofer will intrude on the slides. You may have to move the left shelf leg inboard a cm or two though. Make sure it has enough clearance from the trim to account for everything vibrating around on corrugated roads.
Getting the top shelf in may be a touch tricky. It is possible to go right side in first (as seen in the video) but without the subwoofer, it's much easier to go in left side first. This gives the maximum diagonal space to get trough the door, important as the interior is notably wider than the door aperture is. You could also make the shelf a little narrower. I think I took a bit more off of the corners than what's in the drawings.
Other factory options like the cargo blind or bag hooks may get in the way too, if you have those fitted.
Do you have the cargo barrier and/or threaded holes in the floor for it? I'm not sure attaching the shelf to the cage is really the best idea but it seems to work.
So good mate. Thanks for posting.
Great job. I’ve been thinking of installing a cargo barrier for a while, now I’m convinced. The slides are excellent!
Thanks! Glad to see this video isn't 100% thumbs down :) Be sure to check Gumtree (or your local equivalent) and Japanese/4WD wreckers for cargo barriers before you buy one new. Also, make sure that little safety hammer thing is installed behind the barrier. Pajeros don't have a door handle inside the rear tailgate.
Edit: I should add, "if your car already has the mountings for a barrier". Looking at mine, I suspect they aren't totally factory but a dealer option installed locally.
@@LongPeter Great attention to detail - thanks for sharing.
Also, there are companies on Aliexpress selling a trunk escape lever for the Pajero. I haven't used it myself but I came across a video a while ago where someone had installed it.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001897144028.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.60474d62mcfcZw&algo_pvid=4561386b-7777-4d55-8a61-7853be8f85ba&algo_expid=4561386b-7777-4d55-8a61-7853be8f85ba-1&btsid=0bb0620316203799799421388e8a24&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
You sir, deserve more views. Fantastic setup and hilarious to boot. Subscribed!
Thanks! I actually thought this one was a bit long and dull. I even considered editing down a bit.
I probably should have filmed building the slides. That would have been more interesting.
Mate just awesome 👍
Thanks :)
Thanks for this video, and your plans👍😉
This will be a great project for my Pajero.🤘
Thanks, hope it works well for you :)
Wow, this is mint
Thanks :)
I've been watching far too many RUclips vids lately on how to install mods for Pajeros, but this was the best I've seen by far! I'd love to know more about how you built the lower shelf/slides
Thanks! Lots and lots of measuring and time spent just standing there looking at it.
If you’re handy with steel, I could post my drawings for reference? It’s all drawn to scale in Illustrator.
@@LongPeter That would be awesome and much appreciated. I'm not handy with steel, but my father in law is and he's always up for a project!
Here you go: petercharlton.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Back-of-the-Paj-03.pdf
If you happen to have Adobe Illustrator, you can open the PDF to see the drawings at 100% scale. Failing that, open in Acrobat or any PDF reader. In Acrobat you can turn some of the layers on and off.
Note: I definitely tweaked some things as I built it. This should be pretty close to my end product but be sure to measure and double check everything.
@@LongPeter Thanks so much....i was not expecting the plans to be so detailed. But, thinking about the detail you put into the video I shouldnt be surprised. Thanks again. LEGEND!
@@krisholmes4678 no worries :)
I put enough work into them - it would be nice if they got more than a single use.
Exactly what I've being looking for for my Pajero to keep the underfloor area free! I'd lose some width though due to the subwoofer.
Thanks :)
That’s a shame about subwoofer. Depending on how tall it is, it might also impede getting the shelf in.
Thank you very much for sharing. This is exactly what I was looking for
No problem! Just note, this is for a factory five seat Pajero. The seat brackets are a bit different for vehicles delivered with a third row seat.
I've added the third row brackets to my vehicle now and will update the drawings (in the description) when I get around to revising them. In theory, the round bar just needs to be a centimetre or two wider. I'll probably also attach the feet for the upper shelf to the ends of the round bar rather than using the bolt hole under the removable cover on each side.
@@LongPeter Good you let me know. My Pajero came with three seats rows.
What I love about your design is you still have access to the 3rd row seats room.
Probably for the time being I want to do the upper shelf and you give me excellent idea how to fix the front legs. But still need to fix the rear legs as I don't have the cargo barrier
@@talrusan Yes, I really wanted to keep access to that space. It's too useful to just fill with batteries or something.
If it were me, I'd get a cargo barrier professionally fitted. You don't want whatever is on the shelf joining you in the front in a head-on crash situation.
Now that the 3rd row brackets are in, the minimum length the round bar needs to be is 1135mm and the max it can be is 1180mm, to clear fit up the little ramps. The rod/tube also needs to be 20mm round to fit in the latch mechanism. I previously used 21.6mm steel tube because it is readily available and fit within the old brackets, but it is just a touch too girthy for the latch mechanism.
The brackets fitted to the 5 seat vehicles are basically just one half of the part that goes into 7 seat vehicles. Just the inboard steel part without the latch mechanism. I think they only put them in at all because they also support the edge of the floor.
What is the length of the drawer runner you used ?
@@talrusan 600mm. Details about the one I used are in the video description :)
7:31 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Lmao lol the salvos right in mid of build hahaha
Love the slides sett up and your humour is on point all the way, don't suppose you have a set of measurements for the steel framework the slides mount to..
Thanks!
My drawings and cutting lists are linked in the video description. Hopefully that has what you need?
They don't say everything but should get you pretty close. A lot of test-fitting and tweaking as I put it together.
This was literally the best install video I’ve ever watched. Thank you!!!
Where the heck did you get those round bits that fit into the seat slots?
Thanks!
That is actually just one piece of 21.3mm OD steam pipe all the way across. See the drawings in the description. That works if you have a factory five seat model as it doesn't have the latch mechanisms in the seat brackets.
If you have a seven seater with the latches, anything that is exactly 20mm OD will fit, though you also need to get creative about how to press the latch release. The seats have that plastic cam on each end to unlock the latch when the seat is at particular angles.
On account of excessive procreation, I recently installed the bits to make it a seven seater and have some 20mm axel shaft to make new mounts that will fit. Just call up you local steel supplier and ask what they have. A couple of M20 bolts would work but they cost a fortune and would be plated with stuff you don't want to hit with a welder.
I had the same ideas.. keep the hidden drawer and use the third raw seat hinges!
Good job mate you did such a neat job
Thanks :)
There are some drawings in the video description if you’re interested.
I was pretty keen not to have anything rubbing and scarring up the interior trim.
This was great mate. interested to see what you would do if installing an auxilary battery and/or water tank?
Thanks!
This model has a perfect spot for a second battery in the engine bay, right next to the primary. Most people move the starting battery into that spot and install an accessory battery where the primary was. That just allows a much bigger accessory battery.
I would do so if running the fridge long term but only need it a few nights at a time. Instead, when the primary needed replacing, I grabbed a Century Overlander N70ZZLXHD from Supercheap Auto. At the time it was discounted enough that it was cheaper than a standard one.
For drinking water we mainly use 1.25L mineral water bottles refilled with rain water. They are a handy size for fitting in the fridge or a backpack and 12 fit nicely in a milk crate.
If we are going somewhere without tap water for washing, I'll also add 20L Jerries of water to the trailer.
@@LongPeter Thanks mate. Yeah that is a good spot. I've put our aux battery in the rear underfloor area to keep it away from the heat of the engine bay. If using the overlander battery under the bonnet that battery can withstand those temps so all good with that one. I've also installed a 60L water bladder as a semi permanent install in the underfloor area as well. The thing I love about modifying is seeing how others have come up with great solutions too! Thanks for sharing bud! Your setup looks great!
@@campscape that sounds great!
I tend not to add permanent weight to the car for just for use on occasional trips. The shelving and fridge (usually) come out when not in use.
Permanently fitted stuff makes a lot more sense if you're getting away every weekend though.
Hey love the build .....by any chance u have more pics of the frame itself other than the plans u provided ???
Thanks!
I can take some more photos easily enough. Any specific bits that you particularly want to see?
@@LongPeter
Awsome .....yeah if possible 360 pics of the frame
Hope you havent forgotten me 🤪
@@toto3061986 of course not :)
Will try to get to it on the weekend.
@@toto3061986 Sorry for the delay, had to wait for a moment on the weekend when it wasn't raining, the toddler was asleep and I wasn't immediately required to be doing anything more productive.
Far too many photos (800ish MB ZIP containing 123 JPGs): petercharlton.com.au/shed/paj-shelving/Pt-Paj-Shelving.zip
Thanks for providing the motivation to finally add the project to my website :)
petercharlton.com.au/projects/pajero-shelving/
I think this is excellent. Approximate cost?
Thanks!
About $350 in materials?
• Steel, maybe $60 (go to a steel merchant for this, everything else from Bunnings).
• Drawer slides were $56 x 2 pairs.
• 17mm (19mm?) Formply, $65 for a 1800x1200 sheet.
• $40 of primer and paint.
• Marine carpet $40/m (probably need 1.5-2m. I had a mix of new and left over carpet. Definitely use the rubber-backed kind. The non-backed stuff used waaay more adhesive and stank of it for a fortnight.).
• Maybe $10-$30 of contact adhesive.
• Various sundries, bolts and screws, welding wire, cutting disks etc.
Your own time is a variable cost of course. If you enjoy making things, you could discount that entirely. Plan ahead as much as you can, measure everything a thousand times and get steel/timber cut to size in store where possible. It saves heaps of time and means you don't wear the cost if it is cut incorrectly.
My drawings are in the video description if that's a help at all.
thumb up from 45s.knew it's a good one
باجيرو أقوى سيارة بالعالم 😡🛡️
هذا يشعر بالبطء حتى يبدأ التوربو في تعزيز. (عبر ترجمة جوجل)
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This one feels slow until the turbo starts making boost. (via Google Translate)
@@LongPeter lmao
Tighten Tighten Tighten... click! Another AVE fan?
Haha, yep, just read the description 🤣
Of course 😁
Sadly I don't have his mental library of poetic filth to spice the video up with.