I turned it off. I'm It was adding noise to my images and i felt I could do the job better with RAWs in software. I'm using a D3300, so the feature might perform differently.
@@JSMedia38 i just realised that fact now. Had my d5300 for 5 years with ADL on auto and only today did I give it a comparison with it turned off and to my surprise it just confirmed what you already stated. It just adds more noise although the exif reports a lower iso value for images captured with ADL turned on.
Nice video, I learned much, thank you! I'm a retired computer scientist and absolutely despise working from a computer. I have several Picture Control modes that I can imagine using as well to further automate the process. Shooting in tiff mode also works, and tiff files unlike jpegs, are lossless like raw files. I've always shot raw, with the knowledge from this video, I'll experiment with ADL and HDR just to reduce computer interface time. 🙂 Thanks again!
I think I like the look of the auto HDR images more than the Active D Lighting images. The problem with ADL is that while it lightens shadows, it also lightens everything a bit, too.
This is interesting to me. I've been shooting mainly jpeg in Fujifilm for a number of reasons. Now I'm getting into shooting my dad's old Nikon D600 alongside my fuji and I want to shoot RAW and jpeg - but continue with my Fuji jpeg workflow for most purposes. The first thing that occurs to me wathching this is that - short of the real extreme like the dim inside of a cathedral vs. its stained glass windows, there's not much need for HDR. The dynamic range of cameras for a long time means that that information is all available in a single shot to create jpeg. So, apart from being a faff (especially with having to set up the wide exposure differences), you also have the danger of introducing ghosting presumably if you have any moving elements in the frame between the two images. So for me, D-lighting provides all the potential I need in the jpeg for it to act as a poor-man's RAW for editing on mobile, without the drawbacks of HDR. Except of course for those huge extremes of contrast I mentioned where HDR could provide you with a good working jpeg on the spot.
Nice comparison. Looking forward to your perspective on Picture Controls. I used ADL way back in a P-series CoolPix that did not produce raw files. My understanding was it metered more for the highlights and in the JPEG conversion, lit up details in the shadows. Your "picture database" comment tells it is not as simple. On my display, the combination with HDR in the end looks a bit better, even. I set my new Z 7 up to do nothing automatically, except autofocus. No corrections, nothing. And the picture control on Flat. The reference manual and user guide are not transparent as to which functions would impact JPEG only and which impact raw, and if the latter, if the impact means the raw data have been altered or the effect is in the metadata. Imagine all JPEG only features in a separate booklet and the user guide for raw may be only 100 instead of 475.
Thanks for the great comment and you highlight what has, as a RAW only photographer, driven me to l try and create a bit of a 'real world' view. Whilst the manual takes you so far, they need to innovate a bit to really unpack the functionality built into modern cameras. In some ways this perpetuates the skills of photography as it means you have to be able to interpret the manual with skill, but to me in some ways speeds up it's decline vs smartphones and the like as it is a barrier. For me helping people create the best images they can from what ever kit they're using is what will keep it all moving forward. Thanks for your valuable contribution and maybe we can all show Nikon the way forward in unlocking the best images from their cameras/lenses/etc... 👍
I need to try some of these features. I guess I'm old-fashioned. I don't shoot for social media and don't use in-camera jpeg processing. In high dynamic range situations, I prefer to bracket raw shots and combine them later in post if necessary. Still, one can, I suppose, shoot raw+jpeg, and have the best of both worlds. I guess I like to keep it simple. There are just so many jpeg settings in cameras these days, I have trouble keeing track. This is especially true if one uses more than one camera, from different manufacturers. I think I would spend too much time in the menus trying to figure out what to do. (I do realize though that some people prefer to spend their time shooting rather than editing). I like to shoot raw and figure it out later when I can take my time. I sometimes get the feeling that modern cameras are so feature-rich they are getting too complicated (for me at least.) I sometimes long for the old days when all I had to worry about was aperture, shutter speed and composition. Thanks for the tutorial though; it encourages me to at least try some of these features that I would likely ignore otherwise.
Jon, some great points and I have seen this as an opportunity to just see where some of the in camera capability is. I still plan to shoot predominately RAW but always interesting to see what's there, just in case I need it. Best regards, Adrian
It is still useful for when sending (e-mail or whatever) friends a picture without too much tweaking. I di not waste my time with "social media". I am too busy doing things in real life. As it is I have to go soon.
It all makes sense now why the photos i took of someone in a suit lacked the details of the light designs on their suit lol time to shoot another suit lolol im going to higher the D lighting next time for more details. Thank you! Also, im most into recording 📸💾☕🤗
Just realized that when the Nikon (and I assume smartphones) shoot Auto HDR, they skip the - middle - exposure (we used to do for chrome) and just mesh the 1/3 plus and 1/3 less and assume to capture the middle exposure... in between.
George, that was a learning point for me too after shooting 3 shots bracketed and then using them for HDR in post, but it is a quite realistic HDR none the less which is good to see. It's only when you test the functionality that you see the subtleties. Hope you're well, Adrian
this is your second video im watching and i learned a lot about my nikon. im just a beginner in using dslrs so i really want to learn how to use this manually. but just a comment... or suggestion... i wish if you put different photos taken with different settings side by side for comparison, i think it's better that you place the same exact picture or section side by side, rather than divide it into segments with each segment taken with different settings. because for example, the one at the left is the left side of the picture, the right from the right side of the other picture of the same scene... each picture contains different stuff, like a flower for example at the left, while a tree at the right. so, it's difficult to compare the two because they have two different scenes or subjects. but again, thanks for the learning you shared about picture controls, hdr and adtive d lighting... im adjusting some settings of my d5600 now based on your discussion.
Some good information there and useful comparisons, I travel abroad to hot countries with my D800 and when taking pics of people in bright sunlight the small built-in flash is incredibly useful, I am reluctant to buy a z series mirrorless because they don't have a built-in flash and I feel that the reduction of size and weight of a mirrorless camera would be a waste if I have to travel with a separate flash, I am now looking into active d lighting to see how much it can deal with shadows in eye sockets etc but I don't feel that it does as much as a small built-in flash for close up subjects, HDR is not an option when photographing people due to the movement between the 3 shots, does anyone have any thoughts?
I totally get your point about the flash, however, I had to give it up when I went for the D850 and I have‘ to found it too much of a problem probably as I shoot in RAW mainly and even when shooting in jpeg I’ll do some post processing so can correct the local shadows. Alternatively I carry a small foldable reflector or use a sheet of white paper to reflect light in to deal with shadows if necessary when the conditions are bright. It may not work for your style or situation but hope it helps. All the best, Adrian
FYI - bought the Tiffin 72mm for the Z6 Kit lens and was ANNOYED to find it vignetted the corner of my videos!!! It was past 30 days so I can’t return it so buyer beware!
Oh, I thought you might say 4-5 stop, I nearly went Tiffen on a price/performance basis but then got swayed by an offer but next week's video will explain. Hope your still watch though 😜
D lighting is useful for JPEG shooting, so it basically pulls shadows from the original image for you. When you just take pictures randomly (such as vacations) the photos are often shot without much thinking. But standard JPEG dynamic range might be not enough for some scenes, so D lighting can act as a simple switch for casual users to get images closer to how they want.
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Are any of you using Active D-Lighting or in camera HDR? If so what are your thoughts? Have you seen it improve over the years?
I turned it off. I'm
It was adding noise to my images and i felt I could do the job better with RAWs in software. I'm using a D3300, so the feature might perform differently.
@@JSMedia38 i just realised that fact now. Had my d5300 for 5 years with ADL on auto and only today did I give it a comparison with it turned off and to my surprise it just confirmed what you already stated. It just adds more noise although the exif reports a lower iso value for images captured with ADL turned on.
Nice video, I learned much, thank you! I'm a retired computer scientist and absolutely despise working from a computer. I have several Picture Control modes that I can imagine using as well to further automate the process. Shooting in tiff mode also works, and tiff files unlike jpegs, are lossless like raw files. I've always shot raw, with the knowledge from this video, I'll experiment with ADL and HDR just to reduce computer interface time. 🙂
Thanks again!
I think I like the look of the auto HDR images more than the Active D Lighting images. The problem with ADL is that while it lightens shadows, it also lightens everything a bit, too.
This is interesting to me. I've been shooting mainly jpeg in Fujifilm for a number of reasons. Now I'm getting into shooting my dad's old Nikon D600 alongside my fuji and I want to shoot RAW and jpeg - but continue with my Fuji jpeg workflow for most purposes. The first thing that occurs to me wathching this is that - short of the real extreme like the dim inside of a cathedral vs. its stained glass windows, there's not much need for HDR.
The dynamic range of cameras for a long time means that that information is all available in a single shot to create jpeg. So, apart from being a faff (especially with having to set up the wide exposure differences), you also have the danger of introducing ghosting presumably if you have any moving elements in the frame between the two images. So for me, D-lighting provides all the potential I need in the jpeg for it to act as a poor-man's RAW for editing on mobile, without the drawbacks of HDR.
Except of course for those huge extremes of contrast I mentioned where HDR could provide you with a good working jpeg on the spot.
Nice comparison. Looking forward to your perspective on Picture Controls. I used ADL way back in a P-series CoolPix that did not produce raw files. My understanding was it metered more for the highlights and in the JPEG conversion, lit up details in the shadows. Your "picture database" comment tells it is not as simple. On my display, the combination with HDR in the end looks a bit better, even. I set my new Z 7 up to do nothing automatically, except autofocus. No corrections, nothing. And the picture control on Flat. The reference manual and user guide are not transparent as to which functions would impact JPEG only and which impact raw, and if the latter, if the impact means the raw data have been altered or the effect is in the metadata. Imagine all JPEG only features in a separate booklet and the user guide for raw may be only 100 instead of 475.
Thanks for the great comment and you highlight what has, as a RAW only photographer, driven me to l try and create a bit of a 'real world' view. Whilst the manual takes you so far, they need to innovate a bit to really unpack the functionality built into modern cameras. In some ways this perpetuates the skills of photography as it means you have to be able to interpret the manual with skill, but to me in some ways speeds up it's decline vs smartphones and the like as it is a barrier. For me helping people create the best images they can from what ever kit they're using is what will keep it all moving forward. Thanks for your valuable contribution and maybe we can all show Nikon the way forward in unlocking the best images from their cameras/lenses/etc... 👍
Thank you ! Should I expect similar results with the z6 ?
Tim, I believe so, whilst the sensor is different to the z7 the processing functionality seems common. BR Adrian
I need to try some of these features. I guess I'm old-fashioned. I don't shoot for social media and don't use in-camera jpeg processing. In high dynamic range situations, I prefer to bracket raw shots and combine them later in post if necessary. Still, one can, I suppose, shoot raw+jpeg, and have the best of both worlds. I guess I like to keep it simple. There are just so many jpeg settings in cameras these days, I have trouble keeing track. This is especially true if one uses more than one camera, from different manufacturers. I think I would spend too much time in the menus trying to figure out what to do. (I do realize though that some people prefer to spend their time shooting rather than editing). I like to shoot raw and figure it out later when I can take my time. I sometimes get the feeling that modern cameras are so feature-rich they are getting too complicated (for me at least.) I sometimes long for the old days when all I had to worry about was aperture, shutter speed and composition. Thanks for the tutorial though; it encourages me to at least try some of these features that I would likely ignore otherwise.
Jon, some great points and I have seen this as an opportunity to just see where some of the in camera capability is. I still plan to shoot predominately RAW but always interesting to see what's there, just in case I need it. Best regards, Adrian
It is still useful for when sending (e-mail or whatever) friends a picture without too much tweaking. I di not waste my time with "social media". I am too busy doing things in real life. As it is I have to go soon.
It all makes sense now why the photos i took of someone in a suit lacked the details of the light designs on their suit lol time to shoot another suit lolol im going to higher the D lighting next time for more details. Thank you! Also, im most into recording 📸💾☕🤗
I already have learned something new to me from you the day light which I think it is useful for some situations.
Excellent, it's always great to hear that the videos are of use👍 Adrian
Just realized that when the Nikon (and I assume smartphones) shoot Auto HDR, they skip the - middle - exposure (we used to do for chrome) and just mesh the 1/3 plus and 1/3 less and assume to capture the middle exposure... in between.
George, that was a learning point for me too after shooting 3 shots bracketed and then using them for HDR in post, but it is a quite realistic HDR none the less which is good to see. It's only when you test the functionality that you see the subtleties. Hope you're well, Adrian
I use D-Lighting on the DSLR and HDR on the S10.
If shooting in RAW, does it apply effects on to the file that can be changed/reset in post? or does it not transfer over to the file at all?
I don't think it transfers.
this is your second video im watching and i learned a lot about my nikon. im just a beginner in using dslrs so i really want to learn how to use this manually. but just a comment... or suggestion... i wish if you put different photos taken with different settings side by side for comparison, i think it's better that you place the same exact picture or section side by side, rather than divide it into segments with each segment taken with different settings. because for example, the one at the left is the left side of the picture, the right from the right side of the other picture of the same scene... each picture contains different stuff, like a flower for example at the left, while a tree at the right. so, it's difficult to compare the two because they have two different scenes or subjects. but again, thanks for the learning you shared about picture controls, hdr and adtive d lighting... im adjusting some settings of my d5600 now based on your discussion.
Some good information there and useful comparisons, I travel abroad to hot countries with my D800 and when taking pics of people in bright sunlight the small built-in flash is incredibly useful, I am reluctant to buy a z series mirrorless because they don't have a built-in flash and I feel that the reduction of size and weight of a mirrorless camera would be a waste if I have to travel with a separate flash, I am now looking into active d lighting to see how much it can deal with shadows in eye sockets etc but I don't feel that it does as much as a small built-in flash for close up subjects, HDR is not an option when photographing people due to the movement between the 3 shots, does anyone have any thoughts?
I totally get your point about the flash, however, I had to give it up when I went for the D850 and I have‘ to found it too much of a problem probably as I shoot in RAW mainly and even when shooting in jpeg I’ll do some post processing so can correct the local shadows. Alternatively I carry a small foldable reflector or use a sheet of white paper to reflect light in to deal with shadows if necessary when the conditions are bright. It may not work for your style or situation but hope it helps. All the best, Adrian
I enjoy shooting HDR With a Polariser on 2*8 Tamron lens With my Nikon D750 And the Images Are So rich and Beautiful Normal shooting f5/6 Or f/8
It is pretty hard to shoot a bad picture with the D750.
FYI - bought the Tiffin 72mm for the Z6 Kit lens and was ANNOYED to find it vignetted the corner of my videos!!! It was past 30 days so I can’t return it so buyer beware!
Sorry to hear that, at what point does it stop performing? I was assuming that a 2-9 stop would be ok at 2 stop but not higher?
8 stop
Oh, I thought you might say 4-5 stop, I nearly went Tiffen on a price/performance basis but then got swayed by an offer but next week's video will explain. Hope your still watch though 😜
Doesn't seem to make sense testing dynamic range with does that limit the information your camera gathers. It's there a reason you didn't shoot raw? 🤨
D lighting is useful for JPEG shooting, so it basically pulls shadows from the original image for you. When you just take pictures randomly (such as vacations) the photos are often shot without much thinking. But standard JPEG dynamic range might be not enough for some scenes, so D lighting can act as a simple switch for casual users to get images closer to how they want.
Way too much verbiage get to the point