The great advantage of pumps with a separate switch is the ability to replace only the component that fails. I have an automatic pump which is expensive and noisy, but the great advantage is the small volume it occupies compared to pumps and float switches. You might think the current draw would be significant, but it draws well less than 0.6W averaged over the day (1.2Ah per day in a 12 V system). When the motor spools up to top speed with no water drag on the impeller, back EMF reduces current draw to a trickle which is sensed by the electronics to shut off, then it tries again every 3 minutes.
Thanks for the demonstration. You explained it well. I was wondering why the pump in the old 31' sailboat I bought didn't have a level switch. But it does have a small panel with an Auto/Off/Man(ual) switch and an indicator light that comes on for a couple of seconds every couple of minutes. I now know what type I have. Now to figure out why it doesn't work. The pump seems to work OK in a bucket but doesn't appear to have enough discharge head to lift the water the 3' from the bilge to the discharge (yes, the line is clear). And now I know it doesn't draw enough current to keep it running. These pumps aren't built to be serviced but they're pretty inexpensive.
The sensor technology is also used in air compressor condensate drains which I’m very familiar with. With all the dirt and contaminates in a bilge I’d be more confident with the float style.
Hi thanks for your comment. Just to clarify - the pumps that do the periodic check do not have a sensor. They use a micro-processor inside to monitor current draw, so there is not any issue with sensor contamination. It is always a good idea though to regularly check your pump for any debris which has got inside the strainer
Hello I wonder if you can help with a bilge pump question. I have a low spot below ground level that fills with water. I have installed a 12v automatic pump that works very well except it won't stop when the water has been pumped out. It has to pump vertical for 3 feet and copes fine. If I submerge the pump in a bucket of water it stops when all the water has gone. When placing it in the sump where it has to work it won't cut off. It's only a £25 one from Amazon and has no check valve fitted. Can you think of any reason why it cuts off submerged in a bucket of water but not in the sump that fills up gradually over a couple of hours? I am totally perplexed by this scenario and hope you have the time to offer some advice. Gary. PS Loved the video. Very clear and informed. Get Outlook for Android
Hi Gary thanks for your question. I am guessing you have the type of pump that decides whether to pump or not based on the amount of electrical current that it is drawing. With the test in the bucket you probably get a pretty clean situation at the end where all of the water has been pumped out, the pump is then just pumping fresh air and after a few seconds the pump turns off. With the deeper 3 foot installation the pump has to work a bit harder to push the water up to the top of the hose, then when it has nearly pumped all the water out it ends up pumping a 'froth' of water and air, which causes just enough current draw for the pump to think it has to keep going. If this sounds like the problem you are having it might mean you need a check valve, the other thing that might work is to arrange the hose to have distinct hump at the top that the water has to flow over and then down the other side. Alternatively you could buy a separate float switch and control the pump that way, you might need to experiment with the relative height between the float switch and the pump.
Great review! What about your opinion on longevity? That sensored one would be running the impeller performing its check a crazy amount over its lifetime?
Hi thanks for your question. I could only guess on the longevity really. On the one hand like you said the one without the float switch would be running the impeller regularly, but only for a few seconds if there was no water detected so I don't really see this as an issue. Float switches involve moving parts which could get clogged up, so there are arguments for and against each really. All the best, Richard
I was asking about a bilge pump. Does the bilge pump come with the automatic pump or do it separate? Which brand do you thing is the best with a built in automatic pump? Thanks for you help.
Hello from Southern California! I enjoyed your video very much. It was a very well thought out presentation and gave a clear understanding of these two devices. I subscribed and look forward to seeing more videos. My son and I charter smaller sailboats (27’ to 32’) in Marina Del Rey for the purpose of coastal cruising. Just a terrific family activity. Take care and stay safe. Dusty Morrison.
If you are sure that the second one detects electronically and not with an optical/photo element, then it is not suitable for fresh water, since pure/rain water does not conduct current. If a photosensor is used there, then it is very sensitive to moisture and various types of debris.
I wish I'd seen this before I bought it (the second type of electronically controlled pump) from RTM in Australia. The instructions stated that it woukd switch on and off at just under 3 inches and half an inch respectively. What it did however, was cycle on and off at approximately 30 second intervals. Total pain in the proverbial.
the float type is the better option, it can be overridden and doesnt waste two and a half minutes before deciding to kick off. The 'electronic' one would be better if it was triggered by water across stainless steel contacts negating the need to wait.
I have never been at ease in having a live circuit left unattended on the boat when I am not there. Both our bilge pumps are manual switches. But I guess not everyone can be at their boat as often as we can manage.
Hi thanks for your comment, actually I agree with you - I prefer to turn off all electrics with a Master Switch when leaving that boat, even if that does include the bilge pumps. I'm sure some will think differently though. All the best, Richard
Over a long time, the electronic water sensing type will drain down a battery if boat is not plugged in to shore power, which is another reason I dont like it. It is also an electronic semiconductor circuit, maybe it fails. You dont want a pump like this to fail. You better off having 2 or more bilge pumps in each compartment of the bilge. I have 6 pumps for a 37 foot boat. In front of bilge, two 3700gph, one 2000 gph, one 350 gph for the shower sump which is open top. Then in the aft area, a 2000 gph and a 500 gph. Due to positioning, the forward 2000 gph and the rearward 500 gph do all the work, so the other pumps never run unless a severe problem happens, like a pump fails, or a bad leak. My bilge is divided in two with a mostly watertight bulkhead so the the boat might stay afloat if something bad happens in the rear.
Hi Scott, many thanks for your detailed recommendations. I agree that having more bilge pumps is a good thing, and it is interesting to see the details of your configuration.
@@BoatFittings Thanks. I also do not have an off switch for any bilge pumps, having one is risky, you might turn off the power to the pump. My setup is each pump has its own float switch, the power to the pump thru the float switch is on the always on positive buss, regardless of battery selector switch. I have a start bank battery group 29. All it does is start all 3 engines main and generator, and some bilge pumps use it for power. I have two golf cart type batteries for the house, they run the other pumps. The bilge pump positive feed wires are 20 amp breaker protected. Then I have manual switches made by carling ( typical marine switch ). Turn on switch and the bilge pump runs. I have made a relay circuit so a single carling manual switch can run both pumps together. But the float switches only runs its own pump, (saves a switch position on the helm).
Here is that basic circuit, one switch can run 2 pumps, the two diodes prevent backfeed running of the other pump when its float switch (FS) turns on. (P1 and P2) are the bilge pumps. It is not showing the 12v cube relay to provide power to the pump and save the switches from getting fried, as the 3700 rule pump takes a lot of current to run. I also did not want a voltage drop cause that will slow down the pumping gph rate. I got the diagram from a friend so you can see the basic schematic idea. Basically the relays are activated by the switches and the relays then turn on the pumps, so just another layer gets added to the schematic. The diodes can be any larger diode out of a power supply. photos.app.goo.gl/UsLTnmGXPaTah5AN8
I have similar in a 55 ft boat , plus a Hyundai seawater diesel trash pump and two back up 240v submersible portable pumps , we also have 2x 2 inch Jabsco clutched pumps that can act as either deck hose or emergency bilge pumps . The portable pumps have normal shore power plugs fitted so we are able to assist casualties as long as our shore power leads will reach , worth considering if you have an on-board genset . Ours is a Perkins 403D 45kva ,which is about 15kva on single phase , obviously overkill but it also runs a water maker and a Zeigra 1.2ton/24 hr ice machine. Most of the above bilge solutions are mandatory for MCA cerification .
Another option is using a bilge pump switch, either float type or electronic type, with a bulkhead mounted pump, or a pump mounted outside the bilge at sole level or higher, if the pump can draw water high up. I use diaphragm pumps and bulkhead mount them. No pump possibly sitting in water and a diaphragm pump doesn't get clogged as easily as regular impeller type bilge pumps. It's also easier to service or replace if it fails. No need to dig deep into the bilge. There are always other options.
Hi Ben, Thanks very much for your explanation of your diaphragm pump method. I would love to see a photo of your set-up. Always good to hear alternative thoughts on installations. All the best, Richard
@@BoatFittings Hi Richard. I no longer have the Fish N Cruise with the diaphragm bilge pump set up. I wish I had thought to take pictures. My thinking was, if I came up with the idea surely many others were doing it as well. Keep the good videos coming. Have a good day.
CIAO. HO COMPRATO UNA POMPA AUTOMATICA, MA NON SO COME MONTARLA. A TRE FILI ROSSO, NERO, BLU. VOGLIO USARLA SENZA INTERRUTTORE, COME LA DEVO COLLEGARE??? GRAZIE
Get an auto pump that can be manually activated. I have had the auto function fail on me, allowing 50 gallons of water in the boat before it was noticed. Make sure the auto feature can be tested, and test auto/manual before your next adventure.
Hi thanks for your comment - sorry to hear that you have had so many pump failures. For what it's worth I prefer the float switch type overall. Kind regards, Richard
Hi thanks for your question, I'm not sure which pump you are talking about specifically but we sell pumps / tube / Jubilee clips / switch panels all separately. All the best, Richard
Do I need a drain plug on outside back of boat? The bilge pump is connected to the hole, it’s taking in a lot of water in the back and I have to manually turn on pump from control button at front. Does that mean the automatic part of pump is broke? I never had to do that in 3 years
Hi thanks for your comment - I am afraid that without being able to see your installation for myself I am not able to help with your question. I think it would be worth having a local marine engineer have a look over it for you. All the best, Richard
@@BoatFittings ok thanks, I think I solved problem, I put new drain plug in but the other hole was for livewell. So it’s not supposed to be covered. The pump is just mounted to the transom wall inside. Not as much water now but still slight leak. Thanks
i have a fully automatic bilge pump for my jet ski. its a rule 12v 3.0A 800 gph. i want to add a 3 way switch. does the switch have to be a certain volt and amp. i was looking at a basic on/off/on switch for about $10. thanks for your response
I don't think you can use a 3 way switch on a automatic pump, like the one you have. Because you only have two wires. If you have three wires, yes for sure you can use three way switch.
Hi thanks for your question, any switch would have to be ok with the voltage and current draws. 12V is not a high voltage so in my experience any switch would be fine with the voltage, it is usually more the current draw that you have to be a little more careful with, but again 3A is not very high so you shouldn't find a problem finding a switch with that rating.
Wonder if the sensor type gets corrosion on sensor due to accumulation of deposits if it still will acctivate? The float may stick on other one due to slime or deposits as well ?? Hum im on the float one i think! ???
Hi thanks for your comment. There is not a sensor as such, inside is a micro-processor sealed away from the water. As to the float, yes is there is a build up of deposites inside the enclosure the float could get stuck, so it is a good idea to inspect and clean out inside the strainer from time to time.
Hi thanks for your message, I am not sure exactly what you are asking, but having more than one bilge pump is always a good idea, in a way the more the better as long as the wiring (fuse / switch panel etc.) are up to the job.
Jabsco puppy would make a very poor bilge pump , they are more suitable as wash down pumps . We had one for domestic water supply , not pressurised , it did ok but if someone shuts a tap off without cutting power to the pump they burn out very quickly . It'd do the same if it sooked up anything from bilge , they aren't submersible either . They do pretty well as an engine sump pump though , ours has lasted 14 years pumping out an 8 gallon sump about once a month.
Hi thanks for your comment. If you have a leak big enough to sink the boat in 2 1/2 minutes time you have a big problem on your hands. Lets hope that never happens :)
Hi thanks for your comment. If you can't get the automatic you might be able to buy a float switch to go with a manual pump to achieve the same effect.
Doesn't sound smart -- to have the pump running every 2.5 minutes, nor to have it delay startup for so long. If there is a bad storm or a serious leak, that delay could cost you your life!
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The great advantage of pumps with a separate switch is the ability to replace only the component that fails. I have an automatic pump which is expensive and noisy, but the great advantage is the small volume it occupies compared to pumps and float switches. You might think the current draw would be significant, but it draws well less than 0.6W averaged over the day (1.2Ah per day in a 12 V system). When the motor spools up to top speed with no water drag on the impeller, back EMF reduces current draw to a trickle which is sensed by the electronics to shut off, then it tries again every 3 minutes.
Hi thanks for this great comment - it is nice to have some additional information, and considered opinion on the pros and cons .
All the best,
Richard
Thanks for the demonstration. You explained it well. I was wondering why the pump in the old 31' sailboat I bought didn't have a level switch. But it does have a small panel with an Auto/Off/Man(ual) switch and an indicator light that comes on for a couple of seconds every couple of minutes. I now know what type I have. Now to figure out why it doesn't work. The pump seems to work OK in a bucket but doesn't appear to have enough discharge head to lift the water the 3' from the bilge to the discharge (yes, the line is clear). And now I know it doesn't draw enough current to keep it running. These pumps aren't built to be serviced but they're pretty inexpensive.
Hi thanks for your comment, glad to be of help.
Great information, thanks for making this important video. My pump kept cycling every 2.5 minutes and I couldn't figure it out until I saw this.
Hi thanks so much for your kind message. I am really pleased to hear that my video helped.
The sensor technology is also used in air compressor condensate drains which I’m very familiar with. With all the dirt and contaminates in a bilge I’d be more confident with the float style.
Hi thanks for your comment. Just to clarify - the pumps that do the periodic check do not have a sensor. They use a micro-processor inside to monitor current draw, so there is not any issue with sensor contamination. It is always a good idea though to regularly check your pump for any debris which has got inside the strainer
Hello
I wonder if you can help with a bilge pump question.
I have a low spot below ground level that fills with water.
I have installed a 12v automatic pump that works very well except it won't stop when the water has been pumped out.
It has to pump vertical for 3 feet and copes fine.
If I submerge the pump in a bucket of water it stops when all the water has gone. When placing it in the sump where it has to work it won't cut off. It's only a £25 one from Amazon and has no check valve fitted.
Can you think of any reason why it cuts off submerged in a bucket of water but not in the sump that fills up gradually over a couple of hours?
I am totally perplexed by this scenario and hope you have the time to offer some advice.
Gary.
PS
Loved the video. Very clear and informed.
Get Outlook for Android
Hi Gary thanks for your question. I am guessing you have the type of pump that decides whether to pump or not based on the amount of electrical current that it is drawing. With the test in the bucket you probably get a pretty clean situation at the end where all of the water has been pumped out, the pump is then just pumping fresh air and after a few seconds the pump turns off. With the deeper 3 foot installation the pump has to work a bit harder to push the water up to the top of the hose, then when it has nearly pumped all the water out it ends up pumping a 'froth' of water and air, which causes just enough current draw for the pump to think it has to keep going. If this sounds like the problem you are having it might mean you need a check valve, the other thing that might work is to arrange the hose to have distinct hump at the top that the water has to flow over and then down the other side. Alternatively you could buy a separate float switch and control the pump that way, you might need to experiment with the relative height between the float switch and the pump.
The automatic type is susceptible to continuous running if sensor contacts are not cleaned regularly
Great review! What about your opinion on longevity? That sensored one would be running the impeller performing its check a crazy amount over its lifetime?
Hi thanks for your question. I could only guess on the longevity really. On the one hand like you said the one without the float switch would be running the impeller regularly, but only for a few seconds if there was no water detected so I don't really see this as an issue. Float switches involve moving parts which could get clogged up, so there are arguments for and against each really.
All the best,
Richard
we are talking about chinese quality here.
Thanks for the video. I'll stick with the automatic float pump!
So if you have a really bad leak that electronic ome won't turn on for 2.5 min. Idk if i like that idea, can get pretty full
Hi thanks for your comment.
If you have a leak that bad, a bilge pump can’t save your boat at all.
I was asking about a bilge pump. Does the bilge pump come with the automatic pump or do it separate? Which brand do you thing is the best with a built in automatic pump? Thanks for you help.
Hi thanks again for your question. Each pump has the automatic function built in.
Hello from Southern California! I enjoyed your video very much. It was a very well thought out presentation and gave a clear understanding of these two devices. I subscribed and look forward to seeing more videos. My son and I charter smaller sailboats (27’ to 32’) in Marina Del Rey for the purpose of coastal cruising. Just a terrific family activity. Take care and stay safe. Dusty Morrison.
Hello Dusty, many thanks for your comment I am glad you found the video enjoyable. Wishing you happy cruising, I hope you have a good season.
Richard
How are both of these pumps being powered? Are they being plugged in somewhere or ..
If you are sure that the second one detects electronically and not with an optical/photo element, then it is not suitable for fresh water, since pure/rain water does not conduct current. If a photosensor is used there, then it is very sensitive to moisture and various types of debris.
I wish I'd seen this before I bought it (the second type of electronically controlled pump) from RTM in Australia. The instructions stated that it woukd switch on and off at just under 3 inches and half an inch respectively.
What it did however, was cycle on and off at approximately 30 second intervals. Total pain in the proverbial.
Ah sorry to hear that. I must admit I prefer the float switch type myself.
Kind regards,
Richard
Do I need to secure the pump to the hull?
the float type is the better option, it can be overridden and doesnt waste two and a half minutes before deciding to kick off. The 'electronic' one would be better if it was triggered by water across stainless steel contacts negating the need to wait.
Thanks for your comment
It would be useful if you described the status of each wire ie pos or neg
Too true
Hi thanks for your suggestion. We have other videos concentrating on explaining the wiring so please take a look at the other videos on our channel.
I have never been at ease in having a live circuit left unattended on the boat when I am not there. Both our bilge pumps are manual switches. But I guess not everyone can be at their boat as often as we can manage.
Hi thanks for your comment, actually I agree with you - I prefer to turn off all electrics with a Master Switch when leaving that boat, even if that does include the bilge pumps. I'm sure some will think differently though.
All the best,
Richard
Over a long time, the electronic water sensing type will drain down a battery if boat is not plugged in to shore power, which is another reason I dont like it. It is also an electronic semiconductor circuit, maybe it fails. You dont want a pump like this to fail. You better off having 2 or more bilge pumps in each compartment of the bilge. I have 6 pumps for a 37 foot boat. In front of bilge, two 3700gph, one 2000 gph, one 350 gph for the shower sump which is open top. Then in the aft area, a 2000 gph and a 500 gph. Due to positioning, the forward 2000 gph and the rearward 500 gph do all the work, so the other pumps never run unless a severe problem happens, like a pump fails, or a bad leak. My bilge is divided in two with a mostly watertight bulkhead so the the boat might stay afloat if something bad happens in the rear.
Hi Scott, many thanks for your detailed recommendations. I agree that having more bilge pumps is a good thing, and it is interesting to see the details of your configuration.
@@BoatFittings Thanks. I also do not have an off switch for any bilge pumps, having one is risky, you might turn off the power to the pump. My setup is each pump has its own float switch, the power to the pump thru the float switch is on the always on positive buss, regardless of battery selector switch. I have a start bank battery group 29. All it does is start all 3 engines main and generator, and some bilge pumps use it for power. I have two golf cart type batteries for the house, they run the other pumps. The bilge pump positive feed wires are 20 amp breaker protected. Then I have manual switches made by carling ( typical marine switch ). Turn on switch and the bilge pump runs. I have made a relay circuit so a single carling manual switch can run both pumps together. But the float switches only runs its own pump, (saves a switch position on the helm).
Here is that basic circuit, one switch can run 2 pumps, the two diodes prevent backfeed running of the other pump when its float switch (FS) turns on. (P1 and P2) are the bilge pumps. It is not showing the 12v cube relay to provide power to the pump and save the switches from getting fried, as the 3700 rule pump takes a lot of current to run. I also did not want a voltage drop cause that will slow down the pumping gph rate. I got the diagram from a friend so you can see the basic schematic idea. Basically the relays are activated by the switches and the relays then turn on the pumps, so just another layer gets added to the schematic. The diodes can be any larger diode out of a power supply. photos.app.goo.gl/UsLTnmGXPaTah5AN8
I have similar in a 55 ft boat , plus a Hyundai seawater diesel trash pump and two back up 240v submersible portable pumps , we also have 2x 2 inch Jabsco clutched pumps that can act as either deck hose or emergency bilge pumps .
The portable pumps have normal shore power plugs fitted so we are able to assist casualties as long as our shore power leads will reach , worth considering if you have an on-board genset .
Ours is a Perkins 403D 45kva ,which is about 15kva on single phase , obviously overkill but it also runs a water maker and a Zeigra 1.2ton/24 hr ice machine.
Most of the above bilge solutions are mandatory for MCA cerification .
Another option is using a bilge pump switch, either float type or electronic type, with a bulkhead mounted pump, or a pump mounted outside the bilge at sole level or higher, if the pump can draw water high up. I use diaphragm pumps and bulkhead mount them. No pump possibly sitting in water and a diaphragm pump doesn't get clogged as easily as regular impeller type bilge pumps. It's also easier to service or replace if it fails. No need to dig deep into the bilge. There are always other options.
Hi Ben,
Thanks very much for your explanation of your diaphragm pump method. I would love to see a photo of your set-up. Always good to hear alternative thoughts on installations.
All the best,
Richard
@@BoatFittings Hi Richard. I no longer have the Fish N Cruise with the diaphragm bilge pump set up. I wish I had thought to take pictures. My thinking was, if I came up with the idea surely many others were doing it as well. Keep the good videos coming. Have a good day.
CIAO. HO COMPRATO UNA POMPA AUTOMATICA, MA NON SO COME MONTARLA. A TRE FILI ROSSO, NERO, BLU. VOGLIO USARLA SENZA INTERRUTTORE, COME LA DEVO COLLEGARE??? GRAZIE
Get an auto pump that can be manually activated. I have had the auto function fail on me, allowing 50 gallons of water in the boat before it was noticed. Make sure the auto feature can be tested, and test auto/manual before your next adventure.
I have had all the pumps including the ones you have in the video and they all fail... including the rule pumps... now Im going float switch route...
Hi thanks for your comment - sorry to hear that you have had so many pump failures. For what it's worth I prefer the float switch type overall.
Kind regards,
Richard
Do you have to buy the pump and extras control separate or does it come in a kit.
Hi thanks for your question, I'm not sure which pump you are talking about specifically but we sell pumps / tube / Jubilee clips / switch panels all separately.
All the best,
Richard
Do I need a drain plug on outside back of boat? The bilge pump is connected to the hole, it’s taking in a lot of water in the back and I have to manually turn on pump from control button at front. Does that mean the automatic part of pump is broke? I never had to do that in 3 years
Hi thanks for your comment - I am afraid that without being able to see your installation for myself I am not able to help with your question. I think it would be worth having a local marine engineer have a look over it for you.
All the best,
Richard
@@BoatFittings ok thanks, I think I solved problem, I put new drain plug in but the other hole was for livewell. So it’s not supposed to be covered. The pump is just mounted to the transom wall inside. Not as much water now but still slight leak. Thanks
How are both of these pumps being powered? Are they being plugged in somewhere or ..
Hi thanks for your question, for this demonstration these were being powered by a variable voltage power supply, set to 12V
Thanks for taking the time to do the video, informative.
Many thanks for your kind comment
Will this pump turm on when my seadoo if off
i have a fully automatic bilge pump for my jet ski. its a rule 12v 3.0A 800 gph. i want to add a 3 way switch. does the switch have to be a certain volt and amp. i was looking at a basic on/off/on switch for about $10. thanks for your response
I don't think you can use a 3 way switch on a automatic pump, like the one you have.
Because you only have two wires.
If you have three wires, yes for sure you can use three way switch.
Hi thanks for your question, any switch would have to be ok with the voltage and current draws. 12V is not a high voltage so in my experience any switch would be fine with the voltage, it is usually more the current draw that you have to be a little more careful with, but again 3A is not very high so you shouldn't find a problem finding a switch with that rating.
'Bilgesaver' has a controller like this called the 'Barnacle' that works with any pump
Wonder if the sensor type gets corrosion on sensor due to accumulation of deposits if it still will acctivate? The float may stick on other one due to slime or deposits as well ?? Hum im on the float one i think! ???
Hi thanks for your comment. There is not a sensor as such, inside is a micro-processor sealed away from the water. As to the float, yes is there is a build up of deposites inside the enclosure the float could get stuck, so it is a good idea to inspect and clean out inside the strainer from time to time.
Can it be fully submerged
Hi thanks for your question - yes these are designed to be able to handle full submersion.
How can you wire this to where you can plug it into an extension cord I want to use it to pump out rainwater out of my barrel?
Get a AC/DC switch, or a 230v/12v adapter and then make your own cigarette lighter connection I guess... :)
Hi thanks for your great question - look out for a video coming up for a 230V installation coming soon!
Thanks for this informative and very clear video .
You are welcome!
What about separate bilge pumps like a Jabsco Puppy?
Hi thanks for your message, I am not sure exactly what you are asking, but having more than one bilge pump is always a good idea, in a way the more the better as long as the wiring (fuse / switch panel etc.) are up to the job.
Jabsco puppy would make a very poor bilge pump , they are more suitable as wash down pumps .
We had one for domestic water supply , not pressurised , it did ok but if someone shuts a tap off without cutting power to the pump they burn out very quickly . It'd do the same if it sooked up anything from bilge , they aren't submersible either .
They do pretty well as an engine sump pump though , ours has lasted 14 years pumping out an 8 gallon sump about once a month.
@@jmca3324 jabsco ballast puppy or ballast kings are crap.. .
Very over priced and poor quality product, speaking from experience here.
New subscriber. Great video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Now tun this bad boy on a shaker table
New sub,great job
Hi many thanks for subscribing, glad you liked the video :)
The boat could fill up and sink in 2 1/2 minutes! WTF?
Hi thanks for your comment. If you have a leak big enough to sink the boat in 2 1/2 minutes time you have a big problem on your hands. Lets hope that never happens :)
A lot of water can accumulate in 2.5 minutes if a problem occurs just after an electronic pump does a regular check.
Yes in that case you would be very unlucky. This would be very unlikely though.
Kind regards,
Richard
Really wish I could get the automatic in the states would be great for my 18 foot wellcraft open fisherman
Hi thanks for your comment. If you can't get the automatic you might be able to buy a float switch to go with a manual pump to achieve the same effect.
The sound of the water is too loud.
Super helpful
Glad you think so!
Lets think about electronic pumps at a lightning strike. All electronics just died and you have a leak...
Nice!👍👍👍
Thanks! 👍
Doesn't sound smart -- to have the pump running every 2.5 minutes, nor to have it delay startup for so long. If there is a bad storm or a serious leak, that delay could cost you your life!
Thanks for your comment
👍
Hi - glad you liked the video
How amazing I would use this pump for irritating my farm
if you want to get rid of the water in a bath just remove the plug.
Ha Ha - thanks for your comment
Why do you need an automatic pump in a bath? just pull the drain plug.