1. 1:11 Nozzle size: use .6 mm 2. 4:14 Perimeters over infill: 5 mm + 20% infill 3. 7:03 Materials: PLA is strong enough 4. 8:27 Glue stick: Before printing 5. 10:42 filet vs chamfer (round vs angle): Use chamfer 6. 12:17 Multiple nozzles 7. 14:30 Test prints 8. 15:40 Off the shelve hardware 9. 16:52 Avoid supports 10. 18:24 Final product don't need to be plastic
Actually at CNC Kitchen Stefan showed that you can easily go up to 150% layer line width of the nozzle's diameter. So 0.9 mm layer line width on a 0.6 mm nozzle is not just okay, but the most strongest print setting for 3D printed parts. If you are okay with having 'not the shiniest surface quality' I'd recommend doing exactly that. If you need better printing quality at the surface you can combine the 0.9 setting at the inside walls with a 0.6 mm setting on the outside walls. That will give you a great quality at wall thickness of 1.5mm and high layer adhesion. This is actually my favourite setting.
Greet tip. Thanks. I will use it. Currently using multiple perimeters often. But this should make prints faster. And maybe even better. Does this also work to make prints water tight?
My research for water tightness a couple of weeks ago told me, that water usually doesn't come through the layer lines but the the Z-seam. This setting should be good for water tightness if you tweek your Z-seam stuff right. I suggest using a setting for print speed optimization since it will place your Z-seam to the nearest possible point where the printer finished the last layer. In that way the least material can ooze out of the nozzle during the travel move. Maybe modify your flowrate to a little bit of overextrusion (2-3%). That will help attaching the layers and layer lines to each other.
I've been trying to print a part using standard Prusaslicer settings with silk PLA for weeks, now. But every time I get some sort of defect on the external walls, which is not acceptable, considering it's meant to look nice - it's silk PLA, after all. I just decided to print the very same filament using 0.8 mm line width (with the same 0.4 mm nozzle) and 0.24 mm layer height. Print time dropped one hour and the print is looking perfect! So, I'd say even going 200% of the nozzle diameter is ok, depending on the model.
@@Felipeh999 Yes 200% line width will work, but for maximising the layer adhesion it will be counterproductive. For minimisation of printing time, it will do it's job. Currently I'm also suffering a bit from bad surfaces but this might be reasoned by the high flowrate I'm using. I think the extruder is loosing steps there. If your problem is the same maybe a BondTech CHT Nozzle or simply higher printing temperatures and more equalised Flowrates should do the trick.
I personally hate glue sticks and blue tape. I was using a glass bed. Then I switched to garolite which worked well, but I had to use magigoo to get consistent results. Great glue stick. It sticks really well then the print just popped off once the bed cooled down. I have finally gone to a PEI coated spring steel flex plate. This is the best surface so far and no glue stick.
Great tips, Alex. As a previous applications engineer working for a 3D printer manufacturer just about everything you went over was spot on! One other tip for avoiding supports (which I whole-heartedly agree with) is to consider breaking up the part into separate pieces that can be assembled after the fact. Most people assume that the ability to consolidate parts is always the answer - not necessarily.
My tips : 1. When opening a new roll of filament, write the date on the spool/bag so you know how old it is. 2. Once you find a filament supplier you like, stick with them. There are subtle variations in material from different manufacturers so for consistent prints, be consistent w your filament. 3. Similar to (2), support your filament supplier on social media & promote their product. You’ll benefit from this relationship. 4. There is a difference in the density of black vs white PLA/PLA+. when switching to black PLA, re-tune your extruder each time (only takes a few minutes) 5. When modeling complex curves or parts, print a very thin test print to check the interface. you can slice this easily by moving the object in the negative Z direction so it only slices the ‘top’ for your test prints 6. Don’t always slice prints in the Centre of the build plate. Move them around to spread out the wear on your flexible magnetic plates. Hope this helps !
I don't know what they're officially called, but I like using "chamflets" (chamfer + fillet) on prints that need a chamfer larger than a few layers high. First you create a 45 degree chamfer, then you add a fillet to the top edge of the chamfer. This results in a smooth transition to the side surface (where it's most noticeable), but doesn't suffer from the overhang problems of a standard fillet.
Of all the things there is one S-tier tip that I always share with people: Zen and the Art of 3D Printer Maintenance. Whether you got your Ender 3 on sale or you shelled out for a very expensive model, realize that this is a hobby that requires maintenance. Think of the printer as a diminutive motorcycle that fits on your desk. Just like that guy how occasionally has a really great time riding his motorcycle on the weekends, there are also many evenings after work, he's in his garage "working on the bike". Maybe he's putting a new pair of shiny pipes or a better visibility mirrors on it. Maybe something's rattling and he's got the socket set out and is tightening up this or that. Or, maybe it's just time to change the oil because it's due to have it done. The 3D printer takes maintenance in the exact same ways. Aluminum parts sometimes twist out of shape. Screws come loose. Parts wear down. Wires burn out. Crappy boards from places in China you can't even pronounce burn out. Take a breath. Relax. Look things up online. Don't jump to conclusions, and let your spouse know you're gonna be "working on the machine for a couple hours". Eventually you can enjoy your hobby when the printer is putting down butter-smooth first-layer lines.
I used to print only with PLA. But I live in Brazil, and many of my parts start bending. I never thought that our temperature would make any difference. Still, it appears that PLA exposed to warmer temperatures for more extended periods starts changing its structure, and after a year, it bends. Some structural parts even broke. So, now, I only use PETG, and none of my parts have any issue anymore. I live in a very open place with lots of sunlight. Maybe that was my problem with PLA.
Also don't discount humidity, as PLA is a hygroscopic plastic, and will readily absorb moisture from the air, which in turn weakens it. Combined with heat and you get warping. Many who don't live in such climates report the same for things like mounts for things, like cup holders, in their cars when they bake under the summer sun.
PLA is sensitive to heat, humidity, and UV. It indeed limits your uses for it, but it's still the cheapest and easiest to print. I made something for my car and it completely deformed like silly putty after a couple days in the Florida sun.
No, that's how PLA works. It softens at 60 degrees, but any level of heat will compromise it. Also, as was stated, humidity is a factor. PETG is much more outdoor appropriate and it's really no harder to print, I'd say it's very easy on a Prusa with a textured plate. No glue required, just dial in the Z level well and print. PLA is strong, but not durable. PETG is actually perhaps a little less strong in some ways, but much more durable.
I'm currently working on my engineering thesis. I had to do a bunch of tensile test on 3D printed parts. It's currently almost 80 pages long. I came to RUclips to stop thinking about 3D printing for a minute. This wasn't it, but it was very enjoyable.
Fantastic video. Non of the ideas were completely new to me, but the way you visualize them and show examples of real world benefits, convinced me to try more of them out.
Great video. Nothing new for me but 2 years ago i would really benefit from that. As a tip 11 i would suggest start playing with magnets. That was a huge step for me and my designs.
Glue stick tip: some special glues for 3D printing (like Dimafix) don't just act as a better adhesive while printing, but also as a release agent when it cools down so parts come off all by themselves when they cool down (try to easily release an articulated or flexible part from a flex plates 😉).
I do chamfers at 45 degrees and the select the top edge of the chamfer set a fillet on it to about half the height of the chamfer. This allows the bottom part of the part to get the benefit of the 45 degree chamfer but the top of the chamfer gets the benefit of the fillet and is more aesthetically pleasing. You almost can't tell that the bottom of a chamfer, unless if you count it not failing like fillets do, as being able to tell.
Not just cracks, it literally deforms and "flows" under pressure. Especially if you come anywhere near the 60 degrees of warmth where it starts to soften. All plastics do, but PLA is worse than most.
One thing on PLA, I live in Australian and the temperature inside the house in summer can exceed 40 degrees celsius quite often and I have had parts warp sitting in the loungeroom so while PLA is good enough in Europe and some cooler countries, in some countries I would suggest prototype in PLA and if you need it to last, do the final item in PETG but reserve the PETG just for those last copies. The only way around this down under is to run an air conditioner even when you are not at home to keep the internal house temperature down but that is not a good solution.
Awesome video! I am a 3d printer myself and I love hearing from people who have real world experience making parts. I plan to watch this video a couple of times to pic up on all your tips.
Another tip btw; You don't necessarily need a bigger nozzle for the print speed increase. Most of printers and nozzles can handle layer widths up to 50% bigger than their diameter. So you can print 0.6mm layer widths with a 0.4mm nozzle. On the flip side, you can do this with bigger nozzles as well, as long as your hot end supports the increase in flow. I for example tend to print 1.2 mm thick vasemode prints on my 0.8mm cht nozzle. So there is still a lot of benefit in upgrading.
With the pei sheet as used on prusa is incredibly strong for bed adhesion. Use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol/isopropyl alcohol to wipe it down just before a print then like once a week/few weeks use scotch brite with acetone to scuff up the surface and expose fresh pei. Process takes 10 seconds once you get used to it and perfect adhesion all the time (note this process is for pla NOT petg as adhesion will be too strong for petg). I know people who have been doing this for over 2 years without needing to change the plate/add more pei because of how little pei is removed during this process
3D print the vase then use silicone from hardware store to create a rubber mould for casting. Personally I found it easier to work with and if you mix in a little cornstarch in to the silicone first it creates a putty that you can mould better with your hands.
Your glue stick experience is interesting, because I've actually had the opposite experience with surfaces like BuildTak and similar, that when I use glue stick on those the parts come loose, but without they stick like the duck's guts! I think (correct me if I'm barking up the wrong tree) the way those surfaces work is that they are microscopically rough, which gives the printed plastic something to bite into and stick. Isolating the surface and plastic with a layer of glue inbetween means that the surface can't do the work its designed for.
I had the same experience, glue stick might as well be teflon. It didnt work on glass, Got PEI sheet which would hold for 3-4 layers then peel, added glue, wouldn't stick at all.
That’s weird because for me my Prusa MK3 is hit or miss for bed adhesion if I print directly onto the bed (no matter how much I clean it) but if i add glue stick, prints are rock solid every time. I wonder if ambient temperature and humidity play a part in our different experiences because I am in a colder climate
@@jacobclayton8131 I haven't had experience with the Prusa specifically, but used glue stick regularly when I printed on glass and blue tape and continued using it when I moved onto a Flashforge Dreamer which has one of those special build surfaces (dunno if they made it, or if someone else made it and branded it with Flashforge). I continued using the glue stick because that's what I always did, but had huge problems with adhesion, until I stopped and cleaned the surface heavily with IPA and stopped using glue. Then I tried the same on another printer with a BuildTak surface and had the same experience, leading me to believe that glue stick plus these build surfaces are a bad combo.
It actually could be due to the glue itself. I use a cheap glue I found in a local shop and it makes my prints stick like there is no tomorrow. I tried using 2 other types and those prevent my parts from sticking. This applies to buildtak, glass and creality ultrabase. Printinng PETG.
15:20 another tip in this vein - you can (in cura at least) place the model mostly below the print bed if say you want to test a feature at the top / end of the print but don't want to remodel anything or change the print orientation
With PrusaSlicer, I use a sort of cut line, that is a horizontal plane of sorts, and I adjust the height to where I can get a sample. I mostly use it for printing say a 2-3mm height part of some holes. I then test for the holes to see if they work. If so, print the whole 6-9 hour job
in cura you can force it to not use infill/top/bottom even if your walls are not a multiple of the nozel size. It will use a thiner wall in the middle instead of jogging back and fourth to add a face or infill.
12:16 .... I just realised that I can save a bunch of time on parts I've been making for work. I've been designing them wrong. I knew this tip once upon a time but had forgotten it. Cheers!!
The best part about Tipp 9 in that exact example is, the layer lines are way better in that load scenario then they would be if it was printed standing straight.
I really prefer hairspray for bed adhesion, I had issues with never being able to get the glue stick slimy sticky residue off when I used it even with a damp cloth it'd be gross again in an hour or so.
defiantly great tips, but I stept off the glue sticks a long time ago. I use glass topped with magnetic sticker then metal buildplate pai sheet. Sometimes clean with sprits of alcohol, wipe off, and ready to print. Super clean prints.
Great video. For the line width, try to keep it between -20% / 20% of your nozzle size. For example, 0.4 nozzle, use 0.32 to 0.48 line widths. Of course you can try with more extreme values but that's a good rule of thumb to start with.
You can generally print at 150% of nozzle width with good results. Your point about testing does still apply though, as you might need to add support to deal with overhangs or boundary conditions. CNC Kitchen has done testing showing that there is an increase in strength / welding between layers at higher line widths. You may be able to get up to 200% line width with diminishing returns beyond 150%. Your point about extra perimeters is a good one... Try incorporating thicker line widths, up to 150% of the nozzle. You might want to check the volumetric flow rate to make sure you're not exceeding the limits of your nozzle though. I agree, 0.6mm nozzle is better for my utility prints and I don't print really small stuff very often.. 0.6mm also makes using filled filaments easier (cellulose/wood filament, carbon fiber reinforced or nylon filaments.). I've found polycarbonate carbon fiber to print really well on my printer with no enclosure. 105C bed, 255 degree print, and really great polycarbonate carbon fiber reinforced parts.. PC CF needs those wider layer lines to get good layer welding... there is a lot more heat in a wider layer line.
Great video!! Another tip is to use “Adaptive Cubic” infill. This will build smaller infill shapes when inside more complex elements of the model such as curvature, tubes, etc. and larger shapes for bigger gaps.
Quick tip: You can print up to 0.65mm lines from a 0.4mm nozzle, as the flat area around the nozzle will simply iron down the excess material. If you change to a 0.6mm nozzle, you can get even thicker lines (provided that the nozzle has some flat surface around the hole).
These Tips are awesome! Just getting started printing your assortment boxes. Today I saw this video and optimized all the gcode files. 0.6 nozzle is ordered. But I tweaked the 0.4 nozzle to print 0.75mm wide and it lowers the quality just a little bit, so I don't mind on these assortment boxes. Today I also set up the OctoPrint Continuous Print Plugin so I can print boxes nonstop! Or at least when I am not sleeping in my Bed ^^ Keep up your creative and high quality content! Really appreciate your work :)
hey there i only just found your router table build as i am about to do the same . you did a incredible job of that love the table best i have ever seen
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for the amazing collection of tips! I often wonder how you get so much throughput for your organizer projects! I'm making a cheat sheet of these tips to post on the wall next to my monitor so I can use them in my designs too! Bravo! :D
Been 3D printing for years and never used glue stick or hairspray. In the beginning I used Kapton sheet for the bed, which was OK. Later on I switched to PEI on steel sheets and never looked back. As ALCH mentioned, you just need to keep the bed clean with something like a cheap microfibre cloth and isopropyl alcohol and rough it up once in a while with scotch-brite and it will keep working like a treat for a long time.
About the glue stick tip, it is valid, but I would argue that most sticking issues are mechanical not physical, meaning that either the bed is not aligned properly, or the z-offset is wrong. I used to need a ton of glue stick on my old printers, where leveling the beds where a nightmare. Don't need them anymore and exclusively print PLA and ABS. Even use the Purse print sheet on one of them. Second, really get to know your material. If the melting points for PLA are not correctly set, it will either cool down too fast (not sticking well enough) or too slow (warping issues).
Spot on about PLA. It has stronger tensile strength and is stiffer than ABS but lower impact strength and heat resistance; so unless you very specifically need your part to take impacts and high heat, PLA is actually superior for most applications.
I've been using the hpla from proto pasta that you can heat treat to stand up to higher temperature than usual, its been great so far! Bed adhesion is a bit tricky though
TOTALLY GREENHORN - I have an Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer on order and have absolutely no experience with 3d printing but liked your idea to use a 0.06mm nozzle. I naturally want to get a nozzle that will work seamlessly with the printer. Can you suggest some good options for purchasing?
all great advice, however have you tried using a saturated salt and water solution instead of glue stick? just mix salt and water together in a strong concentration, then wipe it onto the bed with some kitchen towel when the bed is pre-heated, it will quickly dry into a hazey glaze that holds parts down fantastically, especially on glass, and doesn't have any of the messy cleanup of glue.
I never considered max "fillet" because of nozzle size before. That makes a lot of sense. I think you should give NPA a try instead of gluesticks. Even though it is for high end filaments it works for PLA/PETG too. The reason I like it more is because it is water soluble and doesn't leave imprints on the bottom of prints. Lots of great tips for beginners too! Thanks Alexandre!
Thank you for the handy tips. I agree and use PLA filament almost exclusively. I installed a 0.6mm nozzle to print a bunch of your grids and boxes for my workshop. You gave me a few good tips to tweak my print settings which I appreciate and use when printing the next batch. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Great tips for aspiring 3D printers. Do you have any tips on achieving smooth surfaces either through some form of post processing or by altering the print parameters.
I agree on most tips. Just personally i switched to petg for most things instead of pla. The only reason is the lower melting temperature of pla. Maybe it was my cheap pla but i had several parts warp significantly due to the heat of the sun (in cars or behind home window etc.) but for most indoor uses etc. pla is probably plenty strong
FYI one other downside is more noticeable layer lines. Not a big deal for functional parts, but with larger nozzles the parts will look more 3D Printed than with smaller nozzles.
Great video, Alex~! I'm brand new to 3d printing and found this info really interesting. I dove right into getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+, so it's great seeing other makers using the same equipment. Kinda makes it easier to relate, even though they all pretty much do the same thing. I especially liked the tip of using a 0.6mm nozzle. I'm going to have to give that a try. I'm really looking forward to going thru your other videos. Thanks much~!!
I've been 3D printing for a decade, and I can vouch for all of these tips. I love that Alexandre presents printing as a tool, rather than exclusively as an end product.
Regarding use of glue stick, here is another tip: It really only needs a little bit of it and does not need to be fully covering the bed. Then take a wet paper towel and spread the applied gluestick evenly across the whole print plate until it is very thin and almost not visible. This will leave much better surface quality and you have much less glue on the part. After removing a print do not apply new glue stick, but just use the wet paper towel method to even out the glue layer. Renew the gluestick layer only after the third time of spreading.
Thanks Alex! Really solid tips! I'd add one extra tip to this is to rotate square-ish models on the bed so make both axis moving most of the time (so ~45 degrees). This might increase quality of the print on Z axis
Several of those videos and articles exist. And people have varying success with the lower end models, and some have trouble with higher end. I been using the Prusa Mini and love it. Bought a second after I sold my Ender 3
Love your videos. Very helpful as well you giving me so many ideas. Almost overwhelming what i would want to get at first. Quick question. What design software do you use?
Glue stick FTW. I have printers with glass, aluminum, and PIE bed surfaces. I want to be able to print any print on any printer (depending in which isn't busy), and glue stick lets me use the same workflow everywhere.
people are surprised when they ask what I print with and I say the cheapest PLA on ebay! If your careful with your print settings its plenty strong enough and still looks great!
Great tips. As a newcomer to 3d-printing I say thanks! But to be honest: the way of presenting in my opinion is over the top. I find it super easy to clean my PEI printbed with alcohol once a while. It nearly stucks everytime. Only when I print very small pieces I definitely clean the bed and use a brim. I never missed a glue stick. What I had to learn the hard way is printing PET-G, which I definitely need for parts I use inside my car. I started with the normal Prusa printbed and had some issues getting my parts of the printbed. So I ruined it. Now I bought a 2nd rough printbed, which works fine with PET-G.
An additional tip from me: Spend a little more to get high quality pla from proven brands. Actually I prefer pla+, it has a little platic inside that gives more strength and good surface finishing. Great video again thanks.
Tip 1: You don't need a 0.6 nozzle to print 0.6 width. A 0.4 nozzle will happily print up to 0.8 width. (Although if you have bridges you'll need to reduce the flow in those since they don't get squished.)
About PLA: I go with you when you say just use it for everything. PLA is also the most environmentally friendly plastic of the common 3D printing materials because it is polylactic acid and decomposes under the right condidtions i.e. a composting plant. There is one big exeption: Stuff that comes into contact with food. PLA is not food safe so you should use PETG for that. It is just as easy to print with. Another exeption is flexibles, but this is already a very special use case.
Indeed, "under the right conditions". There is a misconception that PLA can just be chucked into nature and it will decompose, but that is not true. It requires specialized facilities and conditions to decompose, otherwise it's just another piece of plastic garbage littering in nature. There are also food safe PLA filaments out there, specifically designed for that purpose. Still, nothing you print should be in constant food contact, but making things like cookie cutters is okay as long as you pick the right plastic. I would add one other caveat, strength. ABS is by far stronger than PLA, and it fails less dramatically than it does. ABS is though one of the worst 3d printing plastics in terms of the environment, so I try to use it sparingly, and generally only when I need that added strength, which often also means a solidly printed part and post-treatment with something like acetone, or even baking to really fuse it together properly, if possible.
@@SwitchAndLever and pigments also don't decompose, so if you have the most glittery filament ever. Well, not that friendly for the environment. In fact, even worse if it is decomposed and not burned because of microplastics. Oh and I thing if I want strength, I'd head directly towards Polycarbonate.
The presentation and content are so g-d damn compelling that I even watched the commercial. The energy and experience are a great combination. I usually avoid infrastructure because it saps my time and, honestly, isn't organization always a bit of a grudge project? But your pep and clever design are inspiring and got me excited about getting my mess under control. Among machinists, BTW, there's a lot of need for organization but sometimes a set of name-brand drawers with dividers costs so much that you can't bring yourself to buy. Vidmar, Kenedy, Huot, and other quality products really cost a lot. Also, you lock yourself into certain dividers once you get a brand of drawers... anyway, thanks for sharing this advice. Keep up the good work.
Print a cube with only two outside layers, let's say 20mm of size. Then measure the wall thickness and tune the feeder multiplier. Second, print a very large version, only a few layers high, and measure the outside in X and Y direction, while still on the bed. That is to find any belt tension errors. Tune in the slicer till correct.
Completely agree that PLA is good for 98% of the prints people do, but there are edge cases where better impact resistance, reduced creep, and higher glass transition temperatures require more appropriate places. Glue stick is fine for PLA, but if you do something with materials that need higher build plate temperatures, the glue stick liquefies and ruins adhesion. Also, PLA creeps a lot over time with constant load. I would recommend PETG (or ASA if you have a enclosed printed with good ventilation) for parts that are under constant load.
I just tested the glue stick tip and got a perfect first layer. So simple, yet so effective! Why didn't I try this sooner?? Printing some more of your organizer boxes now :D
16:52 When support is unavoidable, sometimes you could minimize the amount of support needed by using support blocker feature of your slicer. For instance, this piece MUST be printed with support, but I cut the print time by half by only supporting the bottom 10mm of this piece. ruclips.net/video/a_nmnn7DzW0/видео.html
I hafe the problem that the filament won t stick to the bed. So it messes my print up every time. Or sometimes it lays the filament down and then tears it back up and it follows the nozzel. Does anybody have a tipp for me what i can do so that my prints work. By the way i have a Creality Ender 5 printer
Clean the bed thoroughly using isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you have the z height dialed in. Make the first layer slower, with higher extruder temp, and wider lines (like 130% width). Use a high enough build surface temperature. You could also get a new build surface, like a magnetic flexible plate covered in PEI.
1. 1:11 Nozzle size: use .6 mm
2. 4:14 Perimeters over infill: 5 mm + 20% infill
3. 7:03 Materials: PLA is strong enough
4. 8:27 Glue stick: Before printing
5. 10:42 filet vs chamfer (round vs angle): Use chamfer
6. 12:17 Multiple nozzles
7. 14:30 Test prints
8. 15:40 Off the shelve hardware
9. 16:52 Avoid supports
10. 18:24 Final product don't need to be plastic
Tanks à lot Pablo for that.
PLA is fine for toys, most of the times.
Actually at CNC Kitchen Stefan showed that you can easily go up to 150% layer line width of the nozzle's diameter. So 0.9 mm layer line width on a 0.6 mm nozzle is not just okay, but the most strongest print setting for 3D printed parts. If you are okay with having 'not the shiniest surface quality' I'd recommend doing exactly that. If you need better printing quality at the surface you can combine the 0.9 setting at the inside walls with a 0.6 mm setting on the outside walls. That will give you a great quality at wall thickness of 1.5mm and high layer adhesion. This is actually my favourite setting.
Greet tip. Thanks. I will use it. Currently using multiple perimeters often. But this should make prints faster. And maybe even better.
Does this also work to make prints water tight?
My research for water tightness a couple of weeks ago told me, that water usually doesn't come through the layer lines but the the Z-seam. This setting should be good for water tightness if you tweek your Z-seam stuff right. I suggest using a setting for print speed optimization since it will place your Z-seam to the nearest possible point where the printer finished the last layer. In that way the least material can ooze out of the nozzle during the travel move. Maybe modify your flowrate to a little bit of overextrusion (2-3%). That will help attaching the layers and layer lines to each other.
I've been trying to print a part using standard Prusaslicer settings with silk PLA for weeks, now. But every time I get some sort of defect on the external walls, which is not acceptable, considering it's meant to look nice - it's silk PLA, after all. I just decided to print the very same filament using 0.8 mm line width (with the same 0.4 mm nozzle) and 0.24 mm layer height. Print time dropped one hour and the print is looking perfect! So, I'd say even going 200% of the nozzle diameter is ok, depending on the model.
@@Felipeh999 Yes 200% line width will work, but for maximising the layer adhesion it will be counterproductive. For minimisation of printing time, it will do it's job.
Currently I'm also suffering a bit from bad surfaces but this might be reasoned by the high flowrate I'm using. I think the extruder is loosing steps there. If your problem is the same maybe a BondTech CHT Nozzle or simply higher printing temperatures and more equalised Flowrates should do the trick.
I personally hate glue sticks and blue tape. I was using a glass bed. Then I switched to garolite which worked well, but I had to use magigoo to get consistent results. Great glue stick. It sticks really well then the print just popped off once the bed cooled down. I have finally gone to a PEI coated spring steel flex plate. This is the best surface so far and no glue stick.
Great tips, Alex. As a previous applications engineer working for a 3D printer manufacturer just about everything you went over was spot on! One other tip for avoiding supports (which I whole-heartedly agree with) is to consider breaking up the part into separate pieces that can be assembled after the fact. Most people assume that the ability to consolidate parts is always the answer - not necessarily.
"...consider breaking up the part into separate pieces" What adhesive works for you?
@@billbyrd9845 I use hair spray and a metal magnetic pad. Works amazing. If it’s a small part you can spray extra sticky there
@@sethkahny3663 I think he's asking about what kind of bonding agent. I. e. pva or pvc glue or cyanoacryllic(instant/contact glue with activator)...
Thanks! just gave me an idea to rethink a whole project i gave up on over a year ago.
My tips :
1. When opening a new roll of filament, write the date on the spool/bag so you know how old it is.
2. Once you find a filament supplier you like, stick with them. There are subtle variations in material from different manufacturers so for consistent prints, be consistent w your filament.
3. Similar to (2), support your filament supplier on social media & promote their product. You’ll benefit from this relationship.
4. There is a difference in the density of black vs white PLA/PLA+. when switching to black PLA, re-tune your extruder each time (only takes a few minutes)
5. When modeling complex curves or parts, print a very thin test print to check the interface. you can slice this easily by moving the object in the negative Z direction so it only slices the ‘top’ for your test prints
6. Don’t always slice prints in the Centre of the build plate. Move them around to spread out the wear on your flexible magnetic plates.
Hope this helps !
I don't know what they're officially called, but I like using "chamflets" (chamfer + fillet) on prints that need a chamfer larger than a few layers high.
First you create a 45 degree chamfer, then you add a fillet to the top edge of the chamfer. This results in a smooth transition to the side surface (where it's most noticeable), but doesn't suffer from the overhang problems of a standard fillet.
I love doing this as well. Typically if I am doing less than 1 mm I just leave it but above that I do your method.
I've heard it called "Chillets" lol
Of all the things there is one S-tier tip that I always share with people: Zen and the Art of 3D Printer Maintenance.
Whether you got your Ender 3 on sale or you shelled out for a very expensive model, realize that this is a hobby that requires maintenance. Think of the printer as a diminutive motorcycle that fits on your desk. Just like that guy how occasionally has a really great time riding his motorcycle on the weekends, there are also many evenings after work, he's in his garage "working on the bike".
Maybe he's putting a new pair of shiny pipes or a better visibility mirrors on it. Maybe something's rattling and he's got the socket set out and is tightening up this or that. Or, maybe it's just time to change the oil because it's due to have it done. The 3D printer takes maintenance in the exact same ways.
Aluminum parts sometimes twist out of shape. Screws come loose. Parts wear down. Wires burn out. Crappy boards from places in China you can't even pronounce burn out.
Take a breath. Relax. Look things up online. Don't jump to conclusions, and let your spouse know you're gonna be "working on the machine for a couple hours". Eventually you can enjoy your hobby when the printer is putting down butter-smooth first-layer lines.
I used to print only with PLA. But I live in Brazil, and many of my parts start bending. I never thought that our temperature would make any difference. Still, it appears that PLA exposed to warmer temperatures for more extended periods starts changing its structure, and after a year, it bends. Some structural parts even broke. So, now, I only use PETG, and none of my parts have any issue anymore. I live in a very open place with lots of sunlight. Maybe that was my problem with PLA.
Also don't discount humidity, as PLA is a hygroscopic plastic, and will readily absorb moisture from the air, which in turn weakens it. Combined with heat and you get warping. Many who don't live in such climates report the same for things like mounts for things, like cup holders, in their cars when they bake under the summer sun.
PLA is sensitive to heat, humidity, and UV. It indeed limits your uses for it, but it's still the cheapest and easiest to print. I made something for my car and it completely deformed like silly putty after a couple days in the Florida sun.
No, that's how PLA works. It softens at 60 degrees, but any level of heat will compromise it. Also, as was stated, humidity is a factor. PETG is much more outdoor appropriate and it's really no harder to print, I'd say it's very easy on a Prusa with a textured plate. No glue required, just dial in the Z level well and print. PLA is strong, but not durable. PETG is actually perhaps a little less strong in some ways, but much more durable.
Of course. PLA is a newbie material used mainly for printing figurines, toys and other useless crap.
I'm currently working on my engineering thesis. I had to do a bunch of tensile test on 3D printed parts. It's currently almost 80 pages long. I came to RUclips to stop thinking about 3D printing for a minute. This wasn't it, but it was very enjoyable.
Fantastic video.
Non of the ideas were completely new to me, but the way you visualize them and show examples of real world benefits, convinced me to try more of them out.
I find cheap (Aquanet - $1.39 at Wal-Mart) hairspray to be easier to apply and clean (I almost never clean but IPA works fine).
Great video. Nothing new for me but 2 years ago i would really benefit from that. As a tip 11 i would suggest start playing with magnets. That was a huge step for me and my designs.
Glue stick tip: some special glues for 3D printing (like Dimafix) don't just act as a better adhesive while printing, but also as a release agent when it cools down so parts come off all by themselves when they cool down (try to easily release an articulated or flexible part from a flex plates 😉).
The video I needed prior to printing out almost 1000 storage boxes and base grids.
I do chamfers at 45 degrees and the select the top edge of the chamfer set a fillet on it to about half the height of the chamfer. This allows the bottom part of the part to get the benefit of the 45 degree chamfer but the top of the chamfer gets the benefit of the fillet and is more aesthetically pleasing. You almost can't tell that the bottom of a chamfer, unless if you count it not failing like fillets do, as being able to tell.
In my experience, PLA isnt very good at holding tension for a long time. Every clamp I printed from PLA that was tightened got a crack in a few months
Not just cracks, it literally deforms and "flows" under pressure. Especially if you come anywhere near the 60 degrees of warmth where it starts to soften. All plastics do, but PLA is worse than most.
Great tips Alex. Now you should do a video showing us how you design your pieces in Fusion 360 for example 😉
One thing on PLA, I live in Australian and the temperature inside the house in summer can exceed 40 degrees celsius quite often and I have had parts warp sitting in the loungeroom so while PLA is good enough in Europe and some cooler countries, in some countries I would suggest prototype in PLA and if you need it to last, do the final item in PETG but reserve the PETG just for those last copies.
The only way around this down under is to run an air conditioner even when you are not at home to keep the internal house temperature down but that is not a good solution.
Awesome video! I am a 3d printer myself and I love hearing from people who have real world experience making parts. I plan to watch this video a couple of times to pic up on all your tips.
Outstanding! Right to the point, and therefor, time effective. A blessing. Thank you so much for sharing.
Another tip btw;
You don't necessarily need a bigger nozzle for the print speed increase. Most of printers and nozzles can handle layer widths up to 50% bigger than their diameter. So you can print 0.6mm layer widths with a 0.4mm nozzle. On the flip side, you can do this with bigger nozzles as well, as long as your hot end supports the increase in flow. I for example tend to print 1.2 mm thick vasemode prints on my 0.8mm cht nozzle. So there is still a lot of benefit in upgrading.
With the pei sheet as used on prusa is incredibly strong for bed adhesion. Use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol/isopropyl alcohol to wipe it down just before a print then like once a week/few weeks use scotch brite with acetone to scuff up the surface and expose fresh pei. Process takes 10 seconds once you get used to it and perfect adhesion all the time (note this process is for pla NOT petg as adhesion will be too strong for petg). I know people who have been doing this for over 2 years without needing to change the plate/add more pei because of how little pei is removed during this process
ACETONE on PEI sheet= bad idea. DON'T USE THAT. Even Prusa themselves discourage that on their website.
3D print the vase then use silicone from hardware store to create a rubber mould for casting. Personally I found it easier to work with and if you mix in a little cornstarch in to the silicone first it creates a putty that you can mould better with your hands.
Your glue stick experience is interesting, because I've actually had the opposite experience with surfaces like BuildTak and similar, that when I use glue stick on those the parts come loose, but without they stick like the duck's guts! I think (correct me if I'm barking up the wrong tree) the way those surfaces work is that they are microscopically rough, which gives the printed plastic something to bite into and stick. Isolating the surface and plastic with a layer of glue inbetween means that the surface can't do the work its designed for.
I had the same experience, glue stick might as well be teflon. It didnt work on glass, Got PEI sheet which would hold for 3-4 layers then peel, added glue, wouldn't stick at all.
That’s weird because for me my Prusa MK3 is hit or miss for bed adhesion if I print directly onto the bed (no matter how much I clean it) but if i add glue stick, prints are rock solid every time.
I wonder if ambient temperature and humidity play a part in our different experiences because I am in a colder climate
_the duck’s guts_
@@jacobclayton8131 I haven't had experience with the Prusa specifically, but used glue stick regularly when I printed on glass and blue tape and continued using it when I moved onto a Flashforge Dreamer which has one of those special build surfaces (dunno if they made it, or if someone else made it and branded it with Flashforge). I continued using the glue stick because that's what I always did, but had huge problems with adhesion, until I stopped and cleaned the surface heavily with IPA and stopped using glue. Then I tried the same on another printer with a BuildTak surface and had the same experience, leading me to believe that glue stick plus these build surfaces are a bad combo.
It actually could be due to the glue itself. I use a cheap glue I found in a local shop and it makes my prints stick like there is no tomorrow. I tried using 2 other types and those prevent my parts from sticking. This applies to buildtak, glass and creality ultrabase. Printinng PETG.
15:20 another tip in this vein - you can (in cura at least) place the model mostly below the print bed if say you want to test a feature at the top / end of the print but don't want to remodel anything or change the print orientation
With PrusaSlicer, I use a sort of cut line, that is a horizontal plane of sorts, and I adjust the height to where I can get a sample. I mostly use it for printing say a 2-3mm height part of some holes. I then test for the holes to see if they work. If so, print the whole 6-9 hour job
Great tips!!
Can you do some 3D printing tutorials for beginners with your prusa printer?
in cura you can force it to not use infill/top/bottom even if your walls are not a multiple of the nozel size. It will use a thiner wall in the middle instead of jogging back and fourth to add a face or infill.
Hey Alex, my 5 yr old son loves watching your channel. Keep making these videos, especially 3d printer ones. 👏🏽👏🏽
Never had problems with PETG. Once loaded on prusa, 0 problems.
Same. I tend to generally use PETG, with exception being I need a color an donky find in PLA
12:16 .... I just realised that I can save a bunch of time on parts I've been making for work. I've been designing them wrong. I knew this tip once upon a time but had forgotten it. Cheers!!
I like all the 3D printed stuff you make. I think your a great Designer
The best part about Tipp 9 in that exact example is, the layer lines are way better in that load scenario then they would be if it was printed standing straight.
and if you didn't want that angle in your print at the bottom, you could still print it at 45° and just use supports instead.
@@swalshy endless possibilities
I really prefer hairspray for bed adhesion, I had issues with never being able to get the glue stick slimy sticky residue off when I used it even with a damp cloth it'd be gross again in an hour or so.
defiantly great tips, but I stept off the glue sticks a long time ago. I use glass topped with magnetic sticker then metal buildplate pai sheet. Sometimes clean with sprits of alcohol, wipe off, and ready to print. Super clean prints.
Does glue stick work in helping with better bed adhesion? Or acts as a release agent? 🤔🤔
I got into 3D Printing because of your videos. Really enjoy designing things and printing them out! Thanks for getting me hooked on it!
Great video. For the line width, try to keep it between -20% / 20% of your nozzle size. For example, 0.4 nozzle, use 0.32 to 0.48 line widths. Of course you can try with more extreme values but that's a good rule of thumb to start with.
Very informative video especially the extrusion width setting one.
You can generally print at 150% of nozzle width with good results. Your point about testing does still apply though, as you might need to add support to deal with overhangs or boundary conditions.
CNC Kitchen has done testing showing that there is an increase in strength / welding between layers at higher line widths. You may be able to get up to 200% line width with diminishing returns beyond 150%.
Your point about extra perimeters is a good one... Try incorporating thicker line widths, up to 150% of the nozzle. You might want to check the volumetric flow rate to make sure you're not exceeding the limits of your nozzle though. I agree, 0.6mm nozzle is better for my utility prints and I don't print really small stuff very often.. 0.6mm also makes using filled filaments easier (cellulose/wood filament, carbon fiber reinforced or nylon filaments.). I've found polycarbonate carbon fiber to print really well on my printer with no enclosure. 105C bed, 255 degree print, and really great polycarbonate carbon fiber reinforced parts.. PC CF needs those wider layer lines to get good layer welding... there is a lot more heat in a wider layer line.
What kind of CAD do you use to sketch your projects?
Great video!! Another tip is to use “Adaptive Cubic” infill. This will build smaller infill shapes when inside more complex elements of the model such as curvature, tubes, etc. and larger shapes for bigger gaps.
GREAT video! Love seeing some of the aspects of how you *design* some of what you do. Would be great to see more of that!
Quick tip: You can print up to 0.65mm lines from a 0.4mm nozzle, as the flat area around the nozzle will simply iron down the excess material. If you change to a 0.6mm nozzle, you can get even thicker lines (provided that the nozzle has some flat surface around the hole).
These Tips are awesome! Just getting started printing your assortment boxes. Today I saw this video and optimized all the gcode files. 0.6 nozzle is ordered. But I tweaked the 0.4 nozzle to print 0.75mm wide and it lowers the quality just a little bit, so I don't mind on these assortment boxes. Today I also set up the OctoPrint Continuous Print Plugin so I can print boxes nonstop! Or at least when I am not sleeping in my Bed ^^ Keep up your creative and high quality content! Really appreciate your work :)
hey there i only just found your router table build as i am about to do the same . you did a incredible job of that love the table best i have ever seen
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for the amazing collection of tips! I often wonder how you get so much throughput for your organizer projects! I'm making a cheat sheet of these tips to post on the wall next to my monitor so I can use them in my designs too! Bravo! :D
Been 3D printing for years and never used glue stick or hairspray. In the beginning I used Kapton sheet for the bed, which was OK. Later on I switched to PEI on steel sheets and never looked back. As ALCH mentioned, you just need to keep the bed clean with something like a cheap microfibre cloth and isopropyl alcohol and rough it up once in a while with scotch-brite and it will keep working like a treat for a long time.
About the glue stick tip, it is valid, but I would argue that most sticking issues are mechanical not physical, meaning that either the bed is not aligned properly, or the z-offset is wrong. I used to need a ton of glue stick on my old printers, where leveling the beds where a nightmare. Don't need them anymore and exclusively print PLA and ABS. Even use the Purse print sheet on one of them. Second, really get to know your material. If the melting points for PLA are not correctly set, it will either cool down too fast (not sticking well enough) or too slow (warping issues).
Great tips, especially the one about supports. PLA is one of the strongest plastics, just not very temperature resistant
Spot on about PLA. It has stronger tensile strength and is stiffer than ABS but lower impact strength and heat resistance; so unless you very specifically need your part to take impacts and high heat, PLA is actually superior for most applications.
I print since almost five years and only used PLA - haven't had the need to use something else.
I like PETG a lot too, a bit more dense and a little bit more heat resistant :)
Here, I pretty much have to use PETG for most parts. PLA will sag in the summer heat even if inside but near a window that gets a lot of sunlight.
I've been using the hpla from proto pasta that you can heat treat to stand up to higher temperature than usual, its been great so far! Bed adhesion is a bit tricky though
Excellent Tips, and I have been 3d printing for several years now.
TOTALLY GREENHORN - I have an Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer on order and have absolutely no experience with 3d printing but liked your idea to use a 0.06mm nozzle. I naturally want to get a nozzle that will work seamlessly with the printer. Can you suggest some good options for purchasing?
all great advice, however have you tried using a saturated salt and water solution instead of glue stick? just mix salt and water together in a strong concentration, then wipe it onto the bed with some kitchen towel when the bed is pre-heated, it will quickly dry into a hazey glaze that holds parts down fantastically, especially on glass, and doesn't have any of the messy cleanup of glue.
I hope I can properly adjust my CURA for 0.6. I'm not sure the terminology is the same (perimeters?).
I never considered max "fillet" because of nozzle size before. That makes a lot of sense. I think you should give NPA a try instead of gluesticks. Even though it is for high end filaments it works for PLA/PETG too. The reason I like it more is because it is water soluble and doesn't leave imprints on the bottom of prints. Lots of great tips for beginners too! Thanks Alexandre!
Thank you for the handy tips. I agree and use PLA filament almost exclusively. I installed a 0.6mm nozzle to print a bunch of your grids and boxes for my workshop. You gave me a few good tips to tweak my print settings which I appreciate and use when printing the next batch. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
4:05 and even 0.16 g less filament is used. Would have guessed it to go up a little. Most interesting!
Great tip about perimeter width with 0.6 nozzle! 1/3 of print time saved on your assortment boxes =).
Great tips for aspiring 3D printers. Do you have any tips on achieving smooth surfaces either through some form of post processing or by altering the print parameters.
I started using the exact same glue stick from Clas Ohlson when I had adhesion problems, never had a failed print since... :)
I agree on most tips. Just personally i switched to petg for most things instead of pla. The only reason is the lower melting temperature of pla. Maybe it was my cheap pla but i had several parts warp significantly due to the heat of the sun (in cars or behind home window etc.) but for most indoor uses etc. pla is probably plenty strong
Thank you so much
I ordered my printer today and this really helps a lot
FYI one other downside is more noticeable layer lines. Not a big deal for functional parts, but with larger nozzles the parts will look more 3D Printed than with smaller nozzles.
Great video, Alex~! I'm brand new to 3d printing and found this info really interesting. I dove right into getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+, so it's great seeing other makers using the same equipment. Kinda makes it easier to relate, even though they all pretty much do the same thing. I especially liked the tip of using a 0.6mm nozzle. I'm going to have to give that a try. I'm really looking forward to going thru your other videos. Thanks much~!!
Great video! I will wait your Vol. 2 !!! Congrats!
Love these tips Alex ! Thanks for all your hard work !
I've been 3D printing for a decade, and I can vouch for all of these tips.
I love that Alexandre presents printing as a tool, rather than exclusively as an end product.
Regarding use of glue stick, here is another tip: It really only needs a little bit of it and does not need to be fully covering the bed. Then take a wet paper towel and spread the applied gluestick evenly across the whole print plate until it is very thin and almost not visible. This will leave much better surface quality and you have much less glue on the part. After removing a print do not apply new glue stick, but just use the wet paper towel method to even out the glue layer. Renew the gluestick layer only after the third time of spreading.
Thanks Alex! Really solid tips! I'd add one extra tip to this is to rotate square-ish models on the bed so make both axis moving most of the time (so ~45 degrees). This might increase quality of the print on Z axis
Do you have a video on what printer to choose for various budgets? I am looking to get into 3d printing and looking to spend $500-1000.
Several of those videos and articles exist. And people have varying success with the lower end models, and some have trouble with higher end. I been using the Prusa Mini and love it. Bought a second after I sold my Ender 3
Love your videos. Very helpful as well you giving me so many ideas. Almost overwhelming what i would want to get at first. Quick question. What design software do you use?
Glue stick FTW. I have printers with glass, aluminum, and PIE bed surfaces. I want to be able to print any print on any printer (depending in which isn't busy), and glue stick lets me use the same workflow everywhere.
people are surprised when they ask what I print with and I say the cheapest PLA on ebay! If your careful with your print settings its plenty strong enough and still looks great!
Great tips. As a newcomer to 3d-printing I say thanks! But to be honest: the way of presenting in my opinion is over the top.
I find it super easy to clean my PEI printbed with alcohol once a while. It nearly stucks everytime. Only when I print very small pieces I definitely clean the bed and use a brim. I never missed a glue stick.
What I had to learn the hard way is printing PET-G, which I definitely need for parts I use inside my car. I started with the normal Prusa printbed and had some issues getting my parts of the printbed. So I ruined it. Now I bought a 2nd rough printbed, which works fine with PET-G.
An additional tip from me: Spend a little more to get high quality pla from proven brands. Actually I prefer pla+, it has a little platic inside that gives more strength and good surface finishing. Great video again thanks.
PLA+ = PLA + marketing.
Same crappy material for printing crappy useless things.
Which software do you use to design complicated models , do 3d sharp is good for 3d printing
Fantastic tips, Alexandre! 😃
Thanks a lot!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hey Alex, Bra video. Hvilken type/merke modellgips bruker du og hvor kjøper du det?
An upside to have mostly, or only, perimiters is that you can increase the print speed.
Tip 1: You don't need a 0.6 nozzle to print 0.6 width. A 0.4 nozzle will happily print up to 0.8 width. (Although if you have bridges you'll need to reduce the flow in those since they don't get squished.)
Great ideas and tips thank you Alex
Is there a 3d printer you recommend? Thankyou
About PLA: I go with you when you say just use it for everything. PLA is also the most environmentally friendly plastic of the common 3D printing materials because it is polylactic acid and decomposes under the right condidtions i.e. a composting plant.
There is one big exeption: Stuff that comes into contact with food. PLA is not food safe so you should use PETG for that. It is just as easy to print with.
Another exeption is flexibles, but this is already a very special use case.
Indeed, "under the right conditions". There is a misconception that PLA can just be chucked into nature and it will decompose, but that is not true. It requires specialized facilities and conditions to decompose, otherwise it's just another piece of plastic garbage littering in nature. There are also food safe PLA filaments out there, specifically designed for that purpose. Still, nothing you print should be in constant food contact, but making things like cookie cutters is okay as long as you pick the right plastic.
I would add one other caveat, strength. ABS is by far stronger than PLA, and it fails less dramatically than it does. ABS is though one of the worst 3d printing plastics in terms of the environment, so I try to use it sparingly, and generally only when I need that added strength, which often also means a solidly printed part and post-treatment with something like acetone, or even baking to really fuse it together properly, if possible.
@@SwitchAndLever and pigments also don't decompose, so if you have the most glittery filament ever. Well, not that friendly for the environment. In fact, even worse if it is decomposed and not burned because of microplastics.
Oh and I thing if I want strength, I'd head directly towards Polycarbonate.
The presentation and content are so g-d damn compelling that I even watched the commercial. The energy and experience are a great combination. I usually avoid infrastructure because it saps my time and, honestly, isn't organization always a bit of a grudge project? But your pep and clever design are inspiring and got me excited about getting my mess under control. Among machinists, BTW, there's a lot of need for organization but sometimes a set of name-brand drawers with dividers costs so much that you can't bring yourself to buy. Vidmar, Kenedy, Huot, and other quality products really cost a lot. Also, you lock yourself into certain dividers once you get a brand of drawers... anyway, thanks for sharing this advice. Keep up the good work.
what is your advice for designing an item so the tolerances (such as screw threads inside and out) are exact?
Print a cube with only two outside layers, let's say 20mm of size. Then measure the wall thickness and tune the feeder multiplier.
Second, print a very large version, only a few layers high, and measure the outside in X and Y direction, while still on the bed. That is to find any belt tension errors. Tune in the slicer till correct.
Some really great tips here. I learned a lot!
Have you shared the scooter design?
Completely agree that PLA is good for 98% of the prints people do, but there are edge cases where better impact resistance, reduced creep, and higher glass transition temperatures require more appropriate places.
Glue stick is fine for PLA, but if you do something with materials that need higher build plate temperatures, the glue stick liquefies and ruins adhesion. Also, PLA creeps a lot over time with constant load. I would recommend PETG (or ASA if you have a enclosed printed with good ventilation) for parts that are under constant load.
I just tested the glue stick tip and got a perfect first layer. So simple, yet so effective! Why didn't I try this sooner??
Printing some more of your organizer boxes now :D
Thanks for both keeping me inspired AND improving!! :-)
Yayayay another video !!! This was so educational and I learned a lot of stuff about 3D Printing
I'm glad you liked it :)
@@achappel i loved it sir !!!
Thanks for 3D printing tips! 👍
These are worth trying out.
16:52 When support is unavoidable, sometimes you could minimize the amount of support needed by using support blocker feature of your slicer. For instance, this piece MUST be printed with support, but I cut the print time by half by only supporting the bottom 10mm of this piece.
ruclips.net/video/a_nmnn7DzW0/видео.html
Thank you for sharing you knowledge
I hafe the problem that the filament won t stick to the bed. So it messes my print up every time. Or sometimes it lays the filament down and then tears it back up and it follows the nozzel.
Does anybody have a tipp for me what i can do so that my prints work.
By the way i have a Creality Ender 5 printer
Clean the bed thoroughly using isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you have the z height dialed in. Make the first layer slower, with higher extruder temp, and wider lines (like 130% width). Use a high enough build surface temperature.
You could also get a new build surface, like a magnetic flexible plate covered in PEI.
I’m having issues printing your assortment boxes. The bottoms just fall out. Will try increasing the line width to .75 on my .6 nozzle.
I did a few with the regular 0.4 nozzle and standard settings on my Prusa Mini and PETG. no issues.
@@Just_Jesus_ef yeah found out the monoprice pla I was using was junk. Printed with polymaker eco pla they come out awesome.
@@brianhilligoss glad to hear it came out better. And good to know, I'll avoid that PLA
My number one tip is to watch a lot of tip and trick videos on 3D printing
Great video, when do you come with the next 10 tips ? 👍
Perfect timing. I'm literally buying a prusha MK3S+ next month. Little bit of an early birthday present. Will pair nicely with my desktop cnc.
cool! :)
Prusa is a great machine.
ok nice, pretty great tips, been thinking about 0.6 nozzle anyway